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BradKnob

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Brad, I just downloaded the Helix Pro 3.0 Software, Wow! That is SO nice. The EQ in that is amazing and the fact that they give you RTA tools where you can load target curves is awesome. I am starting to understand why that DSP is so coveted. I still hate the price ;) but yeah, A Helix DSP Pro is on my short list.



Man you don't even know. The difference from the helix DSP software to the 3.0 pro software is sick. I never even looked at the pro version until I had one in hand, and I was blown away. It was like the only few gripes I had about the old version were fixed, and more. To the point where I would actually justify the extra cost, even though I paid no where near msrp.

I also ordered a remote today, from the dealer I bought it from. I hate the way it looks but for $50 I couldn't pass. I'll basically use it only as a sub volume knob and to toggle between tunes.

Being in vacation all week, out of state has been killing me not being able to go play with it. But... It will be there when I get back. I'm excited to dig into it and see what it can do.
 

DavidRam

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Quick update - BigRed from diyma (won 1st place in MECA Master class at world finals in a 2013 Ram) will be tuning my truck once everything is installed.

This will be an awesome learning experience. I will try to document and remember everything I can and share it in this thread.
 

lizardking

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Video it and post on Youtube....
 
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troutspinner

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That is awesome to hear David. Talk about a small world! I want every step! ;). You have a high opportunity here, soak that knowledge like a sponge! And share! ;)
 

DavidRam

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Video it and post on Youtube....

I thought about asking if he is ok with that, but it seems a little creepy, no?

That is awesome to hear David. Talk about a small world! I want every step! ;). You have a high opportunity here, soak that knowledge like a sponge! And share! ;)

Would you like me to video conference you guys in?! :roflsquared:

This a real honor for me, to get Jim's help! I am really excited about it!

And you are right about small world... he is minutes from me. :favorites13:
 
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troutspinner

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You can file this one under "If you wanted to know" what the inside of the DEQ.8 looked like.

attachment.php


Since there is no remote (though it does have a remote port) I was hoping to learn if they implemented any of the IR Remote circuitry that can usually be found on MiniDSP boards but it does not appear so to me. I do have a message into Ryan at Soundstream if the wired remote port is as simplistic as what I have been reading on MiniDSP forums, a simple temporary short to cycle configs and volume up and down. I am not brave enough to test my theory yet because I kind of like my DSP ;) so hopefully he will shed some light.

Ultimately I would like the ability to switch configurations, one TA, one not TA when passengers are onboard, which is often. I could go the tablet route but something a little quicker and simplistic would be nice.....like other DSP's. :(
 

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BradKnob

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I opted not to get the helix remote, because it's so ugly and there's no way to really incorporate it into the interior like I did with my ms-8 remote. The dealer texted me yesterday saying he got a few in so I grabbed one. I think with 3-12"s I really need a dedicated sub volume control and the ability to flip between tunes is nice also. Hopefully they have something you can use.
 
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troutspinner

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I opted not to get the helix remote, because it's so ugly and there's no way to really incorporate it into the interior like I did with my ms-8 remote. The dealer texted me yesterday saying he got a few in so I grabbed one. I think with 3-12"s I really need a dedicated sub volume control and the ability to flip between tunes is nice also. Hopefully they have something you can use.

I thought you had a HU that had it's own Sub output. Can't that be adjusted then? Not as quickly I am sure but it's something. You could always stash the remote in your console, keeps the uglies out. ;)
 

DavidRam

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Interesting stuff guys... Quick question, is it bad to lower the bass through the stock head unit, occasionally??
 
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troutspinner

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Interesting stuff guys... Quick question, is it bad to lower the bass through the stock head unit, occasionally??

Not at all. No two albums are produced the same, sound comes down to the individuals preference and needs a tweak here and there.
 

Etroze86

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If you don't want to use the head unit you can use a bass knob. Which I don't really recommend but since you have a DSP and will be able to keep sub's at a safe level I think you can use it.
 
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troutspinner

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By George, I think I've got it!

You know those moments of clarity ya get? Everything I’ve read came together….twice!

Last night I realized that I was RTA’ing incorrectly. Earlier in this thread you’ll note that I mentioned that REW could match to a target. The last 2 weeks were a crash course on tuning for me and let’s just say I may have forgotten a step or two along the way.

What I mean is that I was actually using pink noise to adjust and flatten my signals, live! I am sure the neighbors had a chuckle watching me wear shooting headphones while playing on a computer in the truck. I've seen others measure with pink noise, average the results and then adjust their EQ accordingly. Since I was new to this, I did this live so I could see how one frequency adjustment would change another frequency. While that did teach me something, it did not give me the best sound.

Last night I realized that I should be using the Measurement tool in REW which is a sine wave rather than live RTA or even capturing pink noise generator measurements like I’ve seen others do in videos. This is not a shot at those people, that method does work. Today from the driver’s seat I measured every speaker left, center and right and then averaged those signals and then used REW’s EQ match to target function. Entered in the PEQ values for the MiniDSP and my speakers said thank you!

On a side note, I did not point the mic straight ahead like I’ve seen others do in videos pointing it straight ahead from left, straight from center and straight from right. I used the back end like a pivot point, always leaving that in the same position and rotating the front portion from center to left and center to right, creating 3 measurements to create an average. You may think this is a no-brainer but I’m a newbie. ;) That method alone made it so when I turn my head, the sound does not change like it did previously.

Back to it, I then time aligned, EQ’d both left and right and was very pleased but that rear fill was still causing chaos! After a break and a drive to the local sporting goods store to pick up some hunting supplies for this Monday that second moment of clarity hit me. I remembered that I had previously read a post somewhere on DIYMA where someone commented to BigRed that they did not realize he was running rear fill. I also remembered some odd crossover points he wrote back in reply.

I got back to the house and searched for that thread to find that he was crossing over those rear speakers at 300 and 3500 and the second moment of clarity was confirmed. Rear fill should not be mimicking the frequencies from the front, they should be complimenting the front, much like a tweeter takes care of high, a sub lows, etc., they compliment each other.

I jumped back in the truck, adjusted the crossovers what seemed like a hundred times, both low and high to where those rear speakers complimented the whole system. For me, it was 200 and 5000. This also forced me to look at my other crossover settings which I then adjusted the front stage low from 80 to 90 LR 24db and the sub high from 80 to 90 LR 12db. I tried MANY other combinations but these settings sounded perfect.

So I am back to music bliss! Rear fill is doing it’s job of giving me the SPL I want and not corrupting the front stage any more. I think I’m done! I hope………
 

BradKnob

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Eargasms!!! Gotta love it.


How do you have your laptop hooked up to play through your speakers? I've also read that sine waves was the best way to measure but I have no way of running sweeps.
 
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troutspinner

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This is a link to Hanatsu's Article over at DIYMA on using REW for RTA. This should help you immensely with using REW for Measuring, Crossover Points, House Curves and Target EQ.

Following his guide I was able to make my system sound amazing to me. I did not use a house curve but the actual measuring and crossovers theory is very revealing.

The measuring is unlike any other link or video I have read or watched and it makes sense as you take in account for each side but the average is weighed to the speaker side.

The crossover portion was an eye opener for me. Everyone of us who is into audio has at one point asked the question "Where should I set my crossovers". With this method, the graphs will answer that question and leave all of the guess work out of it.

I was surprised to learn that crossover points for my mids were at 100 and 2700. In the past, I've always ran my mids at 70-80 on the low end. And who would have figured out 2700 as a high end by ear? I am sure some people could, heck, maybe even me but once I entered the values into my DSP, my immediate impression was "This is the sound I have been looking for!".

Anyways, follow his guide, you'll thank yourself later.
 

BradKnob

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Awesome, I'll check that out for sure. I have learned a ton by reading hanatsu s comments and posts. Most of it makes my head spin, but still plenty of valuable info.
 
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troutspinner

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Agreed Brad and with that said, maybe I should qualify the link to once you start getting your feet wet, then go read his guide. If you are new to this stuff, the guide could cause a migraine.
 
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troutspinner

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Time Alignment

Interesting results that I thought I would post about time alignment.

There are quite a few calculators on the internet to determine the delay you should enter for your outputs for time alignment. These are the results I received from one of the online calculators in my vehicle with my speaker setup;

Right Mid 0ms
Right Tweeter 0.6ms
Left Mid 1.53ms
Left Tweeter 2.41ms
Sub 1.68ms

Below are the results I did by ear using A better technique for "ear" time alignment? by fcarpio over at DIYMA;

Right Mid 0.0ms
Right Tweeter 0.28ms
Left Mid 1.6ms
Left Tweeter 2.24ms
Sub 1.42ms

Below are the differences between the two;

Right Mid 0.0ms
Right Tweeter 0.32ms
Left Mid -0.07ms
Left Tweeter 0.17ms
Sub 0.36ms

Not a huge difference but definitely a difference. There is nothing wrong with the calculators online, they are using math and cannot account for reflection and angle.

Using the method I linked to above was very good but then I applied my own ears to it for final adjustments for what I consider "gold" and the best staging in my system I have heard to date.

Note, if you use the method that I linked, be sure to go to around page 7 where fcarpio gives the tip to centering the stage as his beginning method will center everything in front of you, not the center of vehicle where it should be.
 

lizardking

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Mine is close to yours..
Left Tweeter 1.83ms
Left Midrange 1.77ms
Left MidBass 1.61ms

Right Tweeter .22ms
Right Midrange .25ms
Rigth Midbass 0ms
 

autokraftgt

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Very nice lizardking & troutspinner! Im gonna cross-reference these #'s with mine.
 
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