Dying battery has lead to truck going mental on me

[Lloyd Harnish]

Ive got a 2019 5th gen 1500 Laramie with what I assume has all the bells and whistles: 12 in screen, seat heaters, etc.

I started having issues starting it and I immediately thought, well its a 2019, and its pushing 2023 soooo new battery BUT it was intermittent but still figured I needed a new battery.
Took it to Advance Auto for free battery testing since I was out of town on vacation and guy did his test with the handheld tester and it was showing all good. Battery, alternator, everything showed good. Ran good with no starting issues for a few days and then it started again where sometime you had to try several times and some times you had to jump it.

Once it was turning over but made LOUD pops that sounded like they came from the top drivers side of the dash; like a 22 being fired.

Finally I took it to a different auto shop, they used the same tester and this guy said it was showing this battery was bad and no cranking amps. So I bought a new battery and no issues since then with starting.

Now, during some point in this period, every time I start the truck, the dash gives what I think is every error that it can.
Traction control, lane departure, you name it in icons and when its initially started it gives the verbiage for service ABS, Service, Service Trailer Brake System, Service Electronic Stability Control, etc.
And to add to all that I am slowly finding things not working now like cruise control now doesn't work. (see attached pics)

I have a Bluetooth OBD reader and tried using that to reset the codes and they just come back.

I have followed some things I have seen on different forums like disconnecting the POS and NEG on battery for 20min, then, WITH THE POS AND NEG STILL DISCONNECTED from the battery, having them touching and trying to start it so it totally drains any possible power so it fully discharges, then reconnect everything.

But alas, no love.

Nav works, dash board readout for fuel and battery gauges, trip-o-meter, etc. all work. But then, like I mentioned earlier, Ill go to use something like my cruise control, that I hardly ever use but used to work, and get an error that its not available.

I have not yet been able to find any fuses that are blown or could result in this many errors or how these errors could be related.

At this point I am making sure I don't live on an Indian burial ground and I am open to burning sage or contacting a priest if it would help.
Any advice or point me in the general direction of a possible fix would be greatly appreciated

 

[GTyankee]

Cruise Control will not work if you have a single trouble code lit up

 

[Daw14]

Make certain your terminals are tight , I’ve read of several people finding them Less then .

 

[CanRebel]

I'd guess relay or (could be burnt wire) something popped, and it's getting triggered. sending to bad signal to computer causing error codes.
Check under hood, fuses, wires. Otherwise, you'd have start take dash apart. Removing the screen might be enough to see around.
But these new trucks jam so much crap in dash, it's hard see anything.

By the way does it happen every time you are driving or went it starts getting dark?

 

[2020PW]

Charge your battery. Not with the truck but put a battery charger on it.

 

[ThunderMug95]

The loud “pops” …That is the mystery as that is far from normal…

 

[BossHogg]

Now, during some point in this period, every time I start the truck, the dash gives what I think is every error that it can.
Traction control, lane departure, you name it in icons and when its initially started it gives the verbiage for service ABS, Service, Service Trailer Brake System, Service Electronic Stability Control, etc.

New doesn't always mean good.

My guess is when you crank the engine, it is causing a voltage drop below the typical 9.6-volt threshold for electronics. You could put a meter on the battery and monitor it to see if this is what is happening.

As mentioned, check the battery terminals and all associated connections including the ground points.

 

[gofishn]

Zero out all codes.

Then, disconnect the battery, both terminals, overnight.
Charge the new battery on a battery charger while it is disconnected to insure full charge.
Put battery back in, hook it up.
Let battery and truck sit, all hooked up, for 20 minutes or so.
Then try accessory position. See if any codes pop up.
If no codes, start truck. wait for any codes.

if any codes, post them here.
If no codes, carry-on, Wayward Son.

NOTE:
Those instant Battery testers are a waste of time unless battery is absolutely Gone.
Even the so-called Load Testers are not that great.
Needs to be hooked up to a charging tester, left on for some time, to see if the cells/plates are good or not.

Batteries Manufacturers are like any other Brands, Folks have their favorites.
That said, few complain about certain brands.
Battleborn for lithium.
East Penn/Dekka for Lead Acid.

O'Reilly's store brand was East Penn/Dekka.
One way to see who actually makes a store brand battery is the Hazmat Sheet.

Good Luck & let us know how ti turns out, Your solution may help another, years done the road.

 

[Rlaf75]

These 5th gens are very sensitive to voltage and will do whacky things when low voltage is detected. I would check the new battery to see if it is fully charged first. Disconnect it for a few minutes then see what it does. It's rumored that these 5th gens will act strange for a bit after a battery has been replaced. You may also want to get the charging system checked to make sure that is working properly too

 

[Npd9769]

Ive got a 2019 5th gen 1500 Laramie with what I assume has all the bells and whistles: 12 in screen, seat heaters, etc.

I started having issues starting it and I immediately thought, well its a 2019, and its pushing 2023 soooo new battery BUT it was intermittent but still figured I needed a new battery.
Took it to Advance Auto for free battery testing since I was out of town on vacation and guy did his test with the handheld tester and it was showing all good. Battery, alternator, everything showed good. Ran good with no starting issues for a few days and then it started again where sometime you had to try several times and some times you had to jump it.

Once it was turning over but made LOUD pops that sounded like they came from the top drivers side of the dash; like a 22 being fired.

Finally I took it to a different auto shop, they used the same tester and this guy said it was showing this battery was bad and no cranking amps. So I bought a new battery and no issues since then with starting.

Now, during some point in this period, every time I start the truck, the dash gives what I think is every error that it can.
Traction control, lane departure, you name it in icons and when its initially started it gives the verbiage for service ABS, Service, Service Trailer Brake System, Service Electronic Stability Control, etc.
And to add to all that I am slowly finding things not working now like cruise control now doesn't work. (see attached pics)

I have a Bluetooth OBD reader and tried using that to reset the codes and they just come back.

I have followed some things I have seen on different forums like disconnecting the POS and NEG on battery for 20min, then, WITH THE POS AND NEG STILL DISCONNECTED from the battery, having them touching and trying to start it so it totally drains any possible power so it fully discharges, then reconnect everything.

But alas, no love.

Nav works, dash board readout for fuel and battery gauges, trip-o-meter, etc. all work. But then, like I mentioned earlier, Ill go to use something like my cruise control, that I hardly ever use but used to work, and get an error that its not available.

I have not yet been able to find any fuses that are blown or could result in this many errors or how these errors could be related.

At this point I am making sure I don't live on an Indian burial ground and I am open to burning sage or contacting a priest if it would help.
Any advice or point me in the general direction of a possible fix would be greatly appreciated

I just had to replace my batteries in my 2019 2500 and I am getting the same alerts. Did you ever get a fix and if so what was it? Thanks

 

[turkeybird56]

These 5th gens are very sensitive to voltage and will do whacky things when low voltage is detected. I would check the new battery to see if it is fully charged first. Disconnect it for a few minutes then see what it does. It's rumored that these 5th gens will act strange for a bit after a battery has been replaced. You may also want to get the charging system checked to make sure that is working properly too

YES, they act stupid, takes a while for all to re-populate. He also needs to recalibrate IBS. Also, OP, when was the last time you had software updated? My battery went down last week and I had "37" codes thrown. Well new battery, to dealer, they reflashed 5 modules with updates, and I am still waiting for all stuff to return after 2 days. Takes numeros drive sessions and rest sessions, just royal PITA. ALL IMHO only.

 

[turkeybird56]

I just had to replace my batteries in my 2019 2500 and I am getting the same alerts. Did you ever get a fix and if so what was it? Thanks

RESEARCH and find the specific videos on youtube on how to reset/recalibrate battery/IBS sensor outputs, That friggin IBS interacts with 4 different systems on the 1500's, not sure on the Diesels. But I did read when researching see there are video's on the Diesels also ref IBS. All IMHO only.

 

[jeff2019Ram]

I too had load gunshot sound by the driver’s door, so I got a jump and drove home. Got home charged the battery for 4 hours and the next day the battery was reading just over 12.4 volts. Took to Carquest and was told that the battery was good just need mor charge by their hand held tool. Went to advance auto and had it tested and it came up saying it was good, but when reading the stats it was at 650 CCA when it’s supposed to be a 730 CCA battery.
So needless to say a battery was bought but I went with the H8 battery which is 900CCA it fits just fine once you remove the spacer that Dodge put in the battery tray. The eco diesel use the H8,so for the gs engines they put a spacer in to be able to use a H7 battery. Works great now.