Easiest way to upgrade system with factory radio?

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88ROOK

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yes i have car play. no i didnt need any resistance inline. i believe i said in an earlier post the with the DSR1 there is no need. how many amps you looking to run? the reason i picked the DSR1 is it was able to run a total of 12 channels (2 ,6 channel amps bridged). not say the audio control couldnt. and the DSR1 is bluetooth ,so no need to run 2 lines of nine wire. nine wire from the amp to the dsr1, and rca's back from the dsr1 to the amps
 
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MadGumby

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yes i have car play. no i didnt need any resistance inline. i believe i said in an earlier post the with the DSR1 there is no need. how many amps you looking to run? the reason i picked the DSR1 is it was able to run a total of 12 channels (2 ,6 channel amps bridged). not say the audio control couldnt. and the DSR1 is bluetooth ,so no need to run 2 lines of nine wire. nine wire from the amp to the dsr1, and rca's back from the dsr1 to the amps

Okay, so 88ROOK, tell me if this is basically what you did.

You have a stock base audio package, but have carplay.
You have the DSR1
You have the wires coming from the stock headunit, you tapped them and ran them as inputs to the DSR1. Then RCA back to your amps. Then 9wire back up front to the stock speaker wires and tapped back into them...which runs out to the door speakers. That's it. Your steering wheel controls are still working because the headunit is in place.

Could I use the net audio T harness instead of cutting or tapping into the factory wires?
 

88ROOK

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Okay, so 88ROOK, tell me if this is basically what you did.

You have a stock base audio package, but have carplay.
You have the DSR1
You have the wires coming from the stock headunit, you tapped them and ran them as inputs to the DSR1. Then RCA back to your amps. Then 9wire back up front to the stock speaker wires and tapped back into them...which runs out to the door speakers. That's it. Your steering wheel controls are still working because the headunit is in place.

Could I use the net audio T harness instead of cutting or tapping into the factory wires?

1. im not sure on the harness, i never looked into it.
2. you correct on the wiring. just make sure you have all the color codes for each speaker right, i wrote everything down and which colors were going to colored wire on the dsr1. i ran the rcas and the 9wire together along the passenger side. undo the sile plates, b pillar, c pillar and take out the back seats. i ran my ground and power for the amps on the drivers side.
3. and all steering wheel controls work. P.S. turn your gains all the way down at first. first hand cause i didnt have the bluetooth paired up and it popped one of the speakers. stupid me had the gains all the way cranked
 

88ROOK

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also if that harness you mention does work I would be all in on that cause splicing all those wires was a bit tedious
 
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MadGumby

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Okay, I can look up which wires go to which speakers I'm sure. I have one more stupid question...Can I tap the factory speaker line twice? Once pulling the signal from the headunit and sending to the DSR1, then tap back in from the amp to output to the speakers? The area in question I tried to rudimentary illustrated here.

wiring.jpg
 

88ROOK

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Okay, I can look up which wires go to which speakers I'm sure. I have one more stupid question...Can I tap the factory speaker line twice? Once pulling the signal from the headunit and sending to the DSR1, then tap back in from the amp to output to the speakers? The area in question I tried to rudimentary illustrated here.

View attachment 139288

dont think that will work that way...also dont use those snap splice connectors, they are junk. i used bullet connectors
 
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MadGumby

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So you had to cut the factory wires then, right?


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MajMike

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I kept my 8.4" touchscreen non-Alpine HU, added a JBL 4505 amp, replaced the 6x9's with Focal components (RSC-165's) front/rear (front tweets in sail panel, rear in bracket used to allow the 6.5" in the 6x9 openings) (really 6.75", and they will fit with mod to said brackets, though Crutchfield says otherwise). Lastly I put a 10" Kicker in the rear and a Clarion EQ in the top glove box.

Get it dialed in and you've got a really nice system.
 
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MadGumby

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So here's one more elementary question. I have an alpine PDX 9 - its a 5 channel amp, and it puts 100RMS to each of the 4 speaker channels regardless of ohms. So I was planning on doing components up front with tweeters in the sails, nothing in the rear (maybe coax if anything?) but what do I do about the 3.5" stock speakers. I am not sure what to do. Are they wired in series with the front door components? How much power would they be getting?
 
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TomT

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So here's one more elementary question. I have an alpine PDX 9 - its a 5 channel amp, and it puts 100RMS to each of the 4 speaker channels regardless of ohms. So I was planning on doing components up front with tweeters in the sails, nothing in the rear (maybe coax if anything?) but what do I do about the 3.5" stock speakers. I am not sure what to do. Are they wired in series with the front door components? How much power would they be getting?

Are you planning to leave all the stock speakers and just connect the amp to the factory wiring?
 
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MadGumby

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I’ll pull the stock speakers in the front and dash, disconnect the rear door speakers if I don’t replace them. I was initially going to save some time and reuse the factory wiring, but if I have to run new wires for a 3 way component up front I can I guess, I just really don’t want to


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TomT

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It’s a pain in the ass but then you’ll have peace of mind with the new wires.
 

Jamrock09

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