EBC brakes

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Any one have any suggestions on a vendor on this site fo EBC brake pads and rotors. I usually use Moe's or Nick but can't find anything. RAM 2500 2016, thanks in advance.
 

Milspec

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I don’t know any site vendors.

Right before I traded my Wrangler for my current Ram, I put on Yellow Stuff pads and their sport slotted, dimpled rotor that matched the yellow stuff pads. I got that on Amazon but they don’t seem to have any for our Rams.

Have also used Rock Auto too but they’re out.

Looks like Summit Racing may have them. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/ebc-brakes/make/dodge/model/ram-1500
 

Jeepwalker

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People have their "pet favorite" brake pads, which they'll recommend till their last day .....BUT, if a guy goes by youtube tests results of various mfgrs brake pads (performed on an industry brake pad test rig ...according to industry standard testing procedures), ....the OEM pads consistently came out on top. They came out on top in all categories: stopping power, longevity, heat durability, corrosion resistance, and sheer strength. Probably due to better quality control (??). OEM pads though are more expensive if you've checked, so most people probably don't buy them. Then, the more expensive pads by major aftermarket mfgrs were a bit further behind the OEM's ...but still performed good. However price wasn't always a sure bet on performance but usually it was. You can search out the videos if you're so inclined to do so. Otherwise I would personally buy Raybestos, Wagner or another top well-known mfgr.

I have ECB pads on a Land Rover. Rarely driven, never in water or winter. Been on there for years. I can't say they're anything special compared to other pads I've used. I can't say they stopped any better than like a Napa pad, and recently I see one of the pads on the front wheel is seriously delaminating. Probably 3/4 of the pad is still left but they're going to need to be replaced. I don't usually see that. Pretty sure I bought mid-to-high level quality at the time (Red??). I don't remember for-sure the color now. But the other wheels' pads seem ok. But who knows ...it could have happened with another mfgrs pads, and if it was a weak mix of friction material, it could be a one-off issue. I mean ...how can anyone 'say' how good a pad is unless they've done some real-life scientific testing against other pads out there, right?? Ok, if a mfgr has ads with a hot gal on the front, ...sure, maybe that makes them a top product in some people's minds ....lol. I have pads on other classic cars which are quite a bit older than the ECB's and they still look and work great. Those are probably Raybestos or Wagners as those are the ones I used to buy the most.

Then again, I've had several sets of OReilly pads on DD's. I usually buy the higher level pad for DD use. I'm going to stop buying them. In fact I already have stopped buying them. Around here they don't handle corrosion very well, probably due to the powder coating on OReilly's pads vs yellow cad plating used on the better mfgr pads. I've had several sets of OReilly's where after about 3 years the backing has rusted significantly beneath the friction material to the point where the friction material literally falls off. Usually on the rear brakes that get exposed to rain/salt more. Then it's metal-on-metal ..thus requiring a new rotor. Worse yet, when that happens, the metal-on-metal causes sparks to spray onto the wheel and the hot sparks melt into the aluminum wheel clear-coat. Then the sparks oxidize and the wheel turns brown. Ruined one wheel doing that. So even though OReilly's is kind enough to replace the pad and rotor, I still needed to replace the wheel myself. I got lucky twice and discovered the fallen pad and was close enough to home I eased into the driveway and let it be till I replaced the pad. But the friction material was only half worn away. They'll replace the pads, but...

The take-away is in the old days, the pads which were riveted didn't usually flake off like the glued ones do. But the next best thing might be the pads which are pressed over fingers AND also glued. As for stopping power most major mfgrs are going to probably perform pretty well.

So if you're concrened about that, checkk with the mfgr and see how they adhere the friction material. If you live down S. you probably don't need to worry about corrosion that much. If you want known Great quality, spring for the OEM pads. At the end of the day, if they last a lot longer bc of better corrosion resistence and longer wear, they might justify the higher price.
 
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Omegasupreme

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I put ebc on my truck. Huge improvement over stock. Especially when pulling a dump trailer. Much less brake fade. More brake dust, but I'll take the better bite any day of the week.
 

hunterdan

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People have their "pet favorite" brake pads, which they'll recommend till their last day .....BUT, if a guy goes by youtube tests results of various mfgrs brake pads (performed on an industry brake pad test rig ...according to industry standard testing procedures), ....the OEM pads consistently came out on top. They came out on top in all categories: stopping power, longevity, heat durability, corrosion resistance, and sheer strength. Probably due to better quality control (??). OEM pads though are more expensive if you've checked, so most people probably don't buy them. Then, the more expensive pads by major aftermarket mfgrs were a bit further behind the OEM's ...but still performed good. However price wasn't always a sure bet on performance but usually it was. You can search out the videos if you're so inclined to do so. Otherwise I would personally buy Raybestos, Wagner or another top well-known mfgr.

I have ECB pads on a Land Rover. Rarely driven, never in water or winter. Been on there for years. I can't say they're anything special compared to other pads I've used. I can't say they stopped any better than like a Napa pad, and recently I see one of the pads on the front wheel is seriously delaminating. Probably 3/4 of the pad is still left but they're going to need to be replaced. I don't usually see that. Pretty sure I bought mid-to-high level quality at the time (Red??). I don't remember for-sure the color now. But the other wheels' pads seem ok. But who knows ...it could have happened with another mfgrs pads, and if it was a weak mix of friction material, it could be a one-off issue. I mean ...how can anyone 'say' how good a pad is unless they've done some real-life scientific testing against other pads out there, right?? Ok, if a mfgr has ads with a hot gal on the front, ...sure, maybe that makes them a top product in some people's minds ....lol. I have pads on other classic cars which are quite a bit older than the ECB's and they still look and work great. Those are probably Raybestos or Wagners as those are the ones I used to buy the most.

Then again, I've had several sets of OReilly pads on DD's. I usually buy the higher level pad for DD use. I'm going to stop buying them. In fact I already have stopped buying them. Around here they don't handle corrosion very well, probably due to the powder coating on OReilly's pads vs yellow cad plating used on the better mfgr pads. I've had several sets of OReilly's where after about 3 years the backing has rusted significantly beneath the friction material to the point where the friction material literally falls off. Usually on the rear brakes that get exposed to rain/salt more. Then it's metal-on-metal ..thus requiring a new rotor. Worse yet, when that happens, the metal-on-metal causes sparks to spray onto the wheel and the hot sparks melt into the aluminum wheel clear-coat. Then the sparks oxidize and the wheel turns brown. Ruined one wheel doing that. So even though OReilly's is kind enough to replace the pad and rotor, I still needed to replace the wheel myself. I got lucky twice and discovered the fallen pad and was close enough to home I eased into the driveway and let it be till I replaced the pad. But the friction material was only half worn away. They'll replace the pads, but...

The take-away is in the old days, the pads which were riveted didn't usually flake off like the glued ones do. But the next best thing might be the pads which are pressed over fingers AND also glued. As for stopping power most major mfgrs are going to probably perform pretty well.

So if you're concrened about that, checkk with the mfgr and see how they adhere the friction material. If you live down S. you probably don't need to worry about corrosion that much. If you want known Great quality, spring for the OEM pads. At the end of the day, if they last a lot longer bc of better corrosion resistence and longer wear, they might justify the higher price.
I'll disagree with this, especially on most standard passenger cars and trucks. Oem brakes are tuned to provide adequate stopping power while minimizing NVH. I've had more oem brake pads (outside of my current ram) have issues before 30k miles than not and I'm not hard on my brakes and don't hardly tow. Brake pads and rotors are often compromises of sorts. Oem pads are usually catered towards excellent initial bite than high temp/speed performance. Most auto parts store brake pads are similar in nature. Specialty pads from power stop, ebc, etc are better compounds that may sacrifice dust and noise for better performance, especially when the pads/rotors start to get hot after repeated use. Oem rotors, in my experience are no better than aftermarket. However, a lot of that comes down to driving style and the condition of your brake system. Sticking calipers or collapsed hoses are going to put more heat into the pads and rotors and accelerate wear and warpage.
 

Jeepwalker

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I'll disagree with this, especially on most standard passenger cars and trucks. Oem brakes are tuned to provide adequate stopping power while minimizing NVH. I've had more oem brake pads (outside of my current ram) have issues before 30k miles than not and I'm not hard on my brakes and don't hardly tow......

I respect your experience. You're not disagreeing with "Me" ...I was just indicating what the test showed (not my opinion). Go to Youtube and there are a few comprehensive tests done exactly the same on computer-controled brake testing dyno machines. The test were performed using industry standard testing procedures. I can say I 'think' this brand was better or that brand 'seemed' better to me because of xyz reason I believed I experienced. But that's not applying the scientific method. If testing procedures show consistantly OEM pads performed better, it's something I at least take into account ...weather I buy them or not is another matter.
 

Mister Luck

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I respect your experience. You're not disagreeing with "Me" ...I was just indicating what the test showed (not my opinion). Go to Youtube and there are a few comprehensive tests done exactly the same on computer-controled brake testing dyno machines. The test were performed using industry standard testing procedures. I can say I 'think' this brand was better or that brand 'seemed' better to me because of xyz reason I believed I experienced. But that's not applying the scientific method. If testing procedures show consistantly OEM pads performed better, it's something I at least take into account ...weather I buy them or not is another matter.
This is good information and I agree with the statement oem brakes have less problems than aftermarket
But the reasons do not accurately reflect the answer.

The reason OEM brakes last longer and have fewer problems is mainly because of rotor finish, before ceramics most OE’s were semi metallics and they too lasted longer than most aftermarket.

Now OE’s have followed the data on ceramics and they also are made of ceramic compounds.
Dollars to donuts OE are going to be at least equal to after market but it is in details like rotor finish, replacing, or correcting caliper components that are going to provide the least problems and greatest longevity.

EBC brake pads are manufactured with a break-in coating ensure proper surface mating a step most DIY and garages over look with out prepping the rotor surface.

Most technicians know the likelihood of a come back is greatly increased therefore some automatically account for rotor replacement because if they don’t have enough rotor material to shave or they don’t have the time because of Chinese resources economical rotors were easy to find of replacement.
(I haven’t priced wholesale Chinese rotors in a while) Therefore the markup percentage profit being greater.

I have no illusions when it comes to marketing products, it just suprises me sometime when I come across a ventriloquist prop on the forums
I sometimes stick my foot into it unknowingly.

I apologize in advance if this is what this is about.

I have several years of brake R&R experience but I’m always looking for new knowledge.
 
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