People have their "pet favorite" brake pads, which they'll recommend till their last day .....BUT, if a guy goes by youtube tests results of various mfgrs brake pads (performed on an industry brake pad test rig ...according to industry standard testing procedures), ....the OEM pads consistently came out on top. They came out on top in all categories: stopping power, longevity, heat durability, corrosion resistance, and sheer strength. Probably due to better quality control (??). OEM pads though are more expensive if you've checked, so most people probably don't buy them. Then, the more expensive pads by major aftermarket mfgrs were a bit further behind the OEM's ...but still performed good. However price wasn't always a sure bet on performance but usually it was. You can search out the videos if you're so inclined to do so. Otherwise I would personally buy Raybestos, Wagner or another top well-known mfgr.
I have ECB pads on a Land Rover. Rarely driven, never in water or winter. Been on there for years. I can't say they're anything special compared to other pads I've used. I can't say they stopped any better than like a Napa pad, and recently I see one of the pads on the front wheel is seriously delaminating. Probably 3/4 of the pad is still left but they're going to need to be replaced. I don't usually see that. Pretty sure I bought mid-to-high level quality at the time (Red??). I don't remember for-sure the color now. But the other wheels' pads seem ok. But who knows ...it could have happened with another mfgrs pads, and if it was a weak mix of friction material, it could be a one-off issue. I mean ...how can anyone 'say' how good a pad is unless they've done some real-life scientific testing against other pads out there, right?? Ok, if a mfgr has ads with a hot gal on the front, ...sure, maybe that makes them a top product in some people's minds ....lol. I have pads on other classic cars which are quite a bit older than the ECB's and they still look and work great. Those are probably Raybestos or Wagners as those are the ones I used to buy the most.
Then again, I've had several sets of OReilly pads on DD's. I usually buy the higher level pad for DD use. I'm going to stop buying them. In fact I already have stopped buying them. Around here they don't handle corrosion very well, probably due to the powder coating on OReilly's pads vs yellow cad plating used on the better mfgr pads. I've had several sets of OReilly's where after about 3 years the backing has rusted significantly beneath the friction material to the point where the friction material literally falls off. Usually on the rear brakes that get exposed to rain/salt more. Then it's metal-on-metal ..thus requiring a new rotor. Worse yet, when that happens, the metal-on-metal causes sparks to spray onto the wheel and the hot sparks melt into the aluminum wheel clear-coat. Then the sparks oxidize and the wheel turns brown. Ruined one wheel doing that. So even though OReilly's is kind enough to replace the pad and rotor, I still needed to replace the wheel myself. I got lucky twice and discovered the fallen pad and was close enough to home I eased into the driveway and let it be till I replaced the pad. But the friction material was only half worn away. They'll replace the pads, but...
The take-away is in the old days, the pads which were riveted didn't usually flake off like the glued ones do. But the next best thing might be the pads which are pressed over fingers AND also glued. As for stopping power most major mfgrs are going to probably perform pretty well.
So if you're concrened about that, checkk with the mfgr and see how they adhere the friction material. If you live down S. you probably don't need to worry about corrosion that much. If you want known Great quality, spring for the OEM pads. At the end of the day, if they last a lot longer bc of better corrosion resistence and longer wear, they might justify the higher price.