ECU and PCM question

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Moneypit98

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Hey all! New to the forum, just had a quick question, every way I've tried to figure out how I want to turbo my 360 magnum something always arises, so to get to the point, I came across the Haltech ECU, I'm sure I can make the engine run with all the supporting mods for the turbo and the fab work won't be an issue, my question is how to control the transmission(obviously after upgrades) I haven't found anyone with a stand alone controller. BTW it's a 1998 1500 4x4, TIA!!
 

dapepper9

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FRPtuning.com would be a much easier management option. Haltech will cost you thousands and you'll likely need to swap to a 46rh or 727 setup. FlyinRyan can simply program your factory PCM.

Post up any questions you have, I'm pretty familiar with the setup to boost these. Myself, I'm working on a Vortech blower fbuild. Supporting things are virtually the same though
 
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Moneypit98

Moneypit98

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Thank you for the reply, I'm not trying to make this truck run 11 or 12s down the track, I just want to have a Saturday night ground pounder, itll probably never see a drag strip in all honesty. Although I want no slouch if I feel the need at a red light on the highway and a stock Camaro or mustang pull up beside me. I'm talking no more than 9psi, for now any way lol. All I've done so far are the worked over EQ iron ram heads, Harland Sharp 1.7s, obviously headers and Gibson cat back, that's about it. Don't want to boost this thing to the moon, just want a fun to buy Dodge has these boxes locked up ass right as a frogs ass
 

dapepper9

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That was exactly my plan with the blower until my town built an 1/8 strip lol now i eventually want to get into the high 7s lol.

Are you wanting to do a remote mount or a front mount setup?
 
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Moneypit98

Moneypit98

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The Haltech I was looking at is right at 1900, it's almost a last resort though, hell I could sell the truck and buy a decent hot hatch and RIP ass, but I want a full size truck that just pulls and pulls and pulls with the screws under the hood just whistling along....
 

dapepper9

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Sct tuning is less than 1000. That goes a long way once you start factoring in supporting mods
 
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Moneypit98

Moneypit98

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SCT from Hughes is 599 for turbo tune, cam is 399, and then data log back and forth to tweak the tune I really think 1800 for the Haltech and dyno tune would end up cheaper in the long run. I could be wrong, that's why I'm looking for input from you guys
 

dapepper9

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Hipotek has nice pump kits and fuel rails to run either stock style returnless or a return style system. Siemens Deka #60 injectors are about $400 new. You'll need an msd box or you'll fight issues with spark blowing out. Don't cheap out on an intercooler, i like Treadstone myself. You'll needa 2bar map sensor, most guys wire in a factory SRT4 neon sensor
 

dapepper9

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Do NOT go to hemifever. Deal with frptuning like i posted earlier. He built his business off retuning and fixing hemifever, PIE, and MartyFletcher/KRC. Where others will tell you "that's as good as it will/can get" he says "hold my beer and watch this". He's good
 
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Moneypit98

Moneypit98

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I'll definitely check out FRP though, thanks man, this build is still in the VERY early stages, just trying to find a good way to go
 
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Moneypit98

Moneypit98

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Lol, hemifever didn't seem to have much to offer in what I was looking to do, granted I don't want to see it go sky high, but I would like a respectable truc
 
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Moneypit98

Moneypit98

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Out of curiosity, what are your thoughts on going to standard trans swap and just using the tuning for the engine?
 
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Moneypit98

Moneypit98

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Hipotek has nice pump kits and fuel rails to run either stock style returnless or a return style system. Siemens Deka #60 injectors are about $400 new. You'll need an msd box or you'll fight issues with spark blowing out. Don't cheap out on an intercooler, i like Treadstone myself. You'll needa 2bar map sensor, most guys wire in a factory SRT4 neon sensor
See, that's the thing, I know engines, I know what they can and can't do, it's just that most of the parts i can find are from Hughes and i know there are guys doing better with forced induction from other companies
 
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Moneypit98

Moneypit98

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Not to keep bugging you but another thing I wanted to ask is, how the hell can I get away from not being able to mess with the timing advance or retard? Had I known how much of a PITA this truck was going to be to model, I'd have never bought it
 

dapepper9

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Out of curiosity, what are your thoughts on going to standard trans swap and just using the tuning for the engine?
Decent option. I chose not to because my truck is 4x4 and there's no good manuals for my intended uses. NV3500 too weak, nv4500 geared too low. I decided to go with a built 46re. However, if your truck is 2wd you can swap to a T5 or T56. Expensive but a hell of a nice swap.
See, that's the thing, I know engines, I know what they can and can't do, it's just that most of the parts i can find are from Hughes and i know there are guys doing better with forced induction from other companies
Yeah, I like to go to Richard at Hipotek. Richard does sell some Hughes products but he also has a fair amount of his own products and machining. His work is top notch.
Not to keep bugging you but another thing I wanted to ask is, how the hell can I get away from not being able to mess with the timing advance or retard? Had I known how much of a PITA this truck was going to be to model, I'd have never bought it
Timing advance and retard is done with the tuning. PCM controlled. These engines are weird in the fact that they have a distributor but it plays no part in ignition timing. It's essentially a relay. Distributor rotation controls the injector timing, called fuel sync. Ideally set at 0 to +4 stock. Bigger aftermarket cams may go as high as +10 from what I've seen. But, that can be slightly complicated as well. You can get it within +/- 2 degrees manually but it requires a Chrysler DRB3 or Snap-on equivalent scanner to really nail it down.
 
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