Engine clicks twice, turns over then dies

[TonyGoogs]

I own a 2011 Ram 1500, Hemi 5.7. I went to start the truck yesterday morning and the windshield wipers engaged (which weren’t turned on), clicked once, then lost all power. The key became locked in the ignition. I opened the door after arriving home from work, and power had been restored. I was able to remove the key, but I put it back in to start it and the windshield wipers engaged again and the starter clicked then lost all power. I charged the battery, which was at 66%, and left it on trickle until today. I removed the fully charged battery and had it tested, and the battery checked good. When I returned home, I reinstalled the battery and was going to take it to the parts store to have the alternator tested. I went to start the truck and it clicked twice then turned over, ran for a few seconds and then died. Any ideas what might be wrong with my truck? Thanks in advance for your opinions!

 

[Jeepwalker]

That was a battery *load test* right? Are there any diagnostic codes flashing? If so, can you retrieve them with a scanner and let us know.

Probably going to have to do some basic troubleshooting. The most obvious things that come to mind I'd check w/o knowing more are (from easiest to check to the least):
1- Quality of battery connections,
2- Ground connections
3- Relay in fuse box (swap starter relay around with another one)
4- Dirty WinModule (key module) connections (check youtube how to clean)
5- Failed Starter Solenoid (shouldn't keep it from running though)
6- Other wiring (like that ground in front of and above the L Front tire)

Check those out. More info would he helpful. Good luck

 

[ExpressRules]

Battery probably has a bad cell or cells. If it wasn't load tested it can be 12 volt or more and still do what you are seeing.

 

[Justthebutler]

If it started and then shut off I would suggest checking the MAF, and fuel filter and also replace the battery; even if it tests ok especially if its the original

 

[Jeepwalker]

If it's an original battery ...you should be able to sell it back to Chrysler so they can figure out what they did wrong ...that made it last so long!!

 

[RamDiver]

Quacks like a duck?

Did you watch the battery being tested and was it a digital type tester or a toaster style?

The toaster type unit is pretty obvious. You hold a switch or dial in position for a period of time while the elements inside get hot and the voltage level drops.

Digital style testers use an abstract algorithm to determine that statically speaking, that the battery is OK.
I wouldn't trust a digital battery tester as far as I could toss the battery, maybe less.

First issue, why is the battery at 66%? Either the battery or alternator is not functioning correctly and/or the battery connections are not clean.

How old is the battery? If it's more than a few years, chances are it's toast. Do you own or can you borrow a digital multimeter to test the fast idle DC voltage?

Measure the DC voltage while maintaining the idle speed between 1500-1800 rpm. At the battery posts, you should measure between 14.5 & 14.8 VDC.
.

 

[Jeepwalker]

These Ram tks act wonky and other-worldly when the battery gets real low..or is in the last gasps of life.

I wouldn't have believed it had I not experienced it myself. Those symptoms can be induced by other items along the main electrical path (Cables, Grounds, Relays, Win modue, etc that have been discussed above).

 

[Burla]

It isnt the charge that is the issue, it is the capacity that is the issue. Happens all the time, "I changed my battery" but still have the issue, do a search. Once capacity is down, you need a new battery.