Engine Coolant

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Raildog262

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Air trapped in heater coil, bubbling sound. Followed YouTube tutorial “burping system”. Now can only get the system to take 8 quarts of coolant and the specs call for 13 quarts. What am I doing wrong?
 

pacofortacos

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The 13 quarts spec is probably an empty system, you normally don't usually drain the system completely empty.
So if you drained it, the goal is to put back in about as much as you drained out.

Did you purge the air at the thermostat before running?

Might just need to do a couple of warm and cooling cycles - if it isn't overheating or running hot, just drive it for a short drive after the thermostat opens and let cool overnight, they usually will purge the air out.

 

gofishn

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hemi 5.7L, 345 cu in
what he said.
Drive it, nex tmorning, cold add coolant until full. dirve it againf or the day, next morning, add coolant until you no longer need to it every morning.

not a oen and done thing. takes a few cycles of the thermostat to get rid of all air.
 

Sherman Bird

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Air trapped in heater coil, bubbling sound. Followed YouTube tutorial “burping system”. Now can only get the system to take 8 quarts of coolant and the specs call for 13 quarts. What am I doing wrong?
Yup! You should consider using an airlift device to alleviate this malady. It pulls a vacuum on the cooling system and removes the air (kinda neat to watch the hoses collapse). Then you put your coolant in a 5 gallon bucket or suitable container and put the airlift's suction hose into the coolant, and it sucks the coolant into the system. This alleviates all but a miniscule amount of air... and headaches with problems like you describe!
 

Highway

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I went to harbor freight and bought the $20 coolant burping funnel, worked great
 
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Raildog262

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everything. should of used proper tools.
Took to the dealer where they did the drain and flush and still running 230. So hopefully they used the right tools CJ. I’ll keep trying to remedy the situation. Really appreciate your input
 
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Raildog262

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Took to the dealer where they did the drain and flush and still running 230. So hopefully they used the right tools CJ. I’ll keep trying to remedy the situation. Really appreciate your input
Talked with two different Dodge dealerships might as well be talking to the moon. No way 230 is right temp when idling. 190-220 should be normal. Tech says not really sure what the normal temp should be just bring it in and let us look at it. Not hardly. For sale sign going in it. Dropped over $440 bucks so far and still no resolution, nor can anyone at either Dodge dealership give me a straight answer
 

GRKN

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Selling it because your temp is running high? You must not be a very patient guy

When is the thermostat opening, if at all? You’ll see the temps drop down several degrees when it does.

If you don’t want to mess with it yourself find a good independent shop, not a dealer
 

Sherman Bird

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Talked with two different Dodge dealerships might as well be talking to the moon. No way 230 is right temp when idling. 190-220 should be normal. Tech says not really sure what the normal temp should be just bring it in and let us look at it. Not hardly. For sale sign going in it. Dropped over $440 bucks so far and still no resolution, nor can anyone at either Dodge dealership give me a straight answer
The Dealer is the very last place to seek sagacious advice to fix your problem. Dealers are there to sell you a car and hire the least experienced techs to work in their service facilities.

Find a small, honestly owned/run shop where the folks have a dog in the race. Do this when you DON'T need any work done. Several of my customers vetted me out before they needed work, and have become some of my most loyal customers.
As a very small shop, there is a whole lot more at stake for my continued success. There are many of us out there... we network to help each other fix those enigmatic problems such as yours. AND, we keep up with our training.
 
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Raildog262

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The Dealer is the very last place to seek sagacious advice to fix your problem. Dealers are there to sell you a car and hire the least experienced techs to work in their service facilities.

Find a small, honestly owned/run shop where the folks have a dog in the race. Do this when you DON'T need any work done. Several of my customers vetted me out before they needed work, and have become some of my most loyal customers.
As a very small shop, there is a whole lot more at stake for my continued success. There are many of us out there... we network to help each other fix those enigmatic problems such as yours. AND, we keep up with our training.
Sherman thank you for the advice unfortunately the local guy I trust told me the same thing
 
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Raildog262

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Selling it because your temp is running high? You must not be a very patient guy

When is the thermostat opening, if at all? You’ll see the temps drop down several degrees when it does.

If you don’t want to mess with it yourself find a good independent shop, not a dealer
Messed with it myself first, then to the dealer where I purchased, then to another local dealer, then to a local auto shop I trust. All the same answer. Thermostat specs show opens at 221. Bought the truck new in 2019 never ran over 215. Selling it with full disclosure so I’m not the one replacing the motor after it runs hot
 

GRKN

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Messed with it myself first, then to the dealer where I purchased, then to another local dealer, then to a local auto shop I trust. All the same answer. Thermostat specs show opens at 221. Bought the truck new in 2019 never ran over 215. Selling it with full disclosure so I’m not the one replacing the motor after it runs hot
Forgive me if I’m missing something but isn’t the obvious answer to replace the t stat? Even new ones have been know to be bad. You can get a lower temperature t stat too
 
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Raildog262

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Forgive me if I’m missing something but isn’t the obvious answer to replace the t stat? Even new ones have been know to be bad. You can get a lower temperature t stat too
Two Tstats in now - Multiple shops say lower Tstat will throw check engine sensir
 

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