Engine rattle sound

[MEB1]

I am also here in the frozen tundra. I have a 2017 5.7L. When I’m driving, it heats up to 221 and normally cools down to 203 at Idle. While reading many of these Forums, I’ve come to Learn that the temp up to 225 is supposed to be normal. Please let me know if they were wrong!

 

[Redcup]

Did you run the heater for awhile? If not, try that.

Yup I did. It pumps out some hot heat now which wasn't fun with how hot it got Friday.

Nope. Not normal.



You can test the thermostat in a pot of boiling water on the kitchen stove. Use a thermometer and see what temp the water is at when the thermostat opens. Personally, I would never install a thermostat that I didn't test first.

Parts store thermostats are junk now days. I have a 192* Calorstat in my truck currently, from RockAuto. Its been in for about 4-5 months and so far, so good. Typically, I would only use OEM, but I wanted to try the Calorstat since they're new to the US market.




Did you remove the plug in the top / front of the water pump when you filled the radiator? My normal procedure on the Hemi is to remove that plug, fill radiator until coolant drools out of the hole, then put the plug back in.

Then I put the radiator cap on, start the engine and while its idling sqeeze the upper radiator hose over and over. Usually with a few pumps of the upper hose, the hose will suddenly collapse. Then I remove the radiator cap and top it off.

I got a motorad premium t-stat. Was not keen on spending $100+ for a t-stat from the dealer. And in the first picture I don't have that drain plug. The hose runs to the oil filter. Guess I could have just popped the hose? I also did squeeze the top hose when it stopped bubbling. The other picture is what I used to "bleed" the system.

 

[Hardracer]

Make sure the giggle pin(if you have one)is clocked correctly on the t-stat...I think its straight up..others can chime in for sure on that...I didn't notice it on mine until temps went north of 220..i took it back apart and it was off ,reassembled..normal 203 area again...prolly trapped air in my case.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Make sure the giggle pin(if you have one)is clocked correctly on the t-stat...I think its straight up..others can chime in for sure on that...I didn't notice it on mine until temps went north of 220..i took it back apart and it was off ,reassembled..normal 203 area again...prolly trapped air in my case.

Correct, if it has the little hole and pin on the t-stat - install the t-stat so that piece is in the 12-o'clock position.

 

[Wild one]

Yup I did. It pumps out some hot heat now which wasn't fun with how hot it got Friday.



I got a motorad premium t-stat. Was not keen on spending $100+ for a t-stat from the dealer. And in the first picture I don't have that drain plug. The hose runs to the oil filter. Guess I could have just popped the hose? I also did squeeze the top hose when it stopped bubbling. The other picture is what I used to "bleed" the system.

View attachment 567529View attachment 567530

Don't be surprised if that thermostat gives you trouble 6 months or a year down the road.Motorads t-stat's leave alot to be desired,and they've bought up pretty well all the other thermostat outfits.

 

[Redcup]

The t-stat has the pin and I made sure it was at the noon position. Any recommendations on a good, not $100, thermostat? I used to use motorad t-stats in the past and didn't have issues. Guess, like everything else anymore, it is cheap chinesium sold as premium. Drove on the highway today and it was still around the 215-222 range at 70. Temp outside was 72 but humid so running the ac. Haven't added coolant since the other day. Just checked the rad and it looks like it needs more. The reserve/overflow stills shows "max"on the dipstick. So I guess there is still air trapped in the system.

 

[Ken226]

The t-stat has the pin and I made sure it was at the noon position. Any recommendations on a good, not $100, thermostat? I used to use motorad t-stats in the past and didn't have issues. Guess, like everything else anymore, it is cheap chinesium sold as premium. Drove on the highway today and it was still around the 215-222 range at 70. Temp outside was 72 but humid so running the ac. Haven't added coolant since the other day. Just checked the rad and it looks like it needs more. The reserve/overflow stills shows "max"on the dipstick. So I guess there is still air trapped in the system.

I've had one of these, from RockAuto for about 6 months now. So far, so good.

Calorstat 192* part# TH721789J

More Information for CALORSTAT TH721789J

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/overheat-help.214815/post-2979999

It seems to hold the advertised temp pretty well.

Overheat, HELP!

I miss my 1989 D-150. The D-150 is absolutely on my short list. It'll probably be my first project after I retire and get moved. I'll buy an old junker and rebuild and repaint it. I may even go with a Gen3 Hemi and use an aftermarket EFI system. Those kind of computers, i have no trouble...

www.ramforum.com

Looks like they dropped the price a little. it was $18 when I bought mine.

 

[Redcup]

I've had one of these, from RockAuto for about 6 months now. So far, so good.

Calorstat 192* part# TH721789J

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/overheat-help.214815/post-2979999

It seems to hold the advertised temp pretty well.

Overheat, HELP!

I miss my 1989 D-150. The D-150 is absolutely on my short list. It'll probably be my first project after I retire and get moved. I'll buy an old junker and rebuild and repaint it. I may even go with a Gen3 Hemi and use an aftermarket EFI system. Those kind of computers, i have no trouble...

www.ramforum.com

Looks like they dropped the price a little. it was $18 when I bought mine.

This is the one I bought: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/THEPM2036145. Might just bite the bullet and replace it. Didn't know motorad was garbage. Shouldn't lose too much coolant if I replace it when it is stone cold. Are the temps I am seeing at least normal for a 203* t-stat?

 

[Ken226]

This is the one I bought: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/THEPM2036145. Might just bite the bullet and replace it. Didn't know motorad was garbage. Shouldn't lose too much coolant if I replace it when it is stone cold. Are the temps I am seeing at least normal for a 203* t-stat?

To be honest, yea, your idle temps are fairly normal. The temps under load are a little high, but not dangerous.


Just replacing your thermostat without any testing isn't likely to help you out any. The random parts cannon approach is the most expensive and least successful way to go about this.

Your current thermostat may be fine, or not. Test it and you'll know.


Low idle temps and high temps at highway speed kinda suggests an airflow issue through the radiator. Do you have grill shutters? Tried removing them? Or maybe just some of them?

Check for debris between the radiator and AC condenser.

 

[Ken226]

This is the one I bought: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/THEPM2036145. Might just bite the bullet and replace it. Didn't know motorad was garbage. Shouldn't lose too much coolant if I replace it when it is stone cold. Are the temps I am seeing at least normal for a 203* t-stat?

Also, as @Zoe Saldana mentioned in post# 19, Turn your heater on full blast and make sure it's blowing hot air.

Air bubbles trapped in the heater core can cause problems. If there is a big air bubble in the heater core, you'll know because your heater will blow barely warm air.

Did you already try disconnecting that oil cooler hose (where the bleeder plug used to be), to make sure the air is bled out?

 

[Redcup]

Also, as @Zoe Saldana mentioned in post# 19, Turn your heater on full blast and make sure it's blowing hot air.

Air bubbles trapped in the heater core can cause problems. If there is a big air bubble in the heater core, you'll know because your heater will blow barely warm air.

Did you already try disconnecting that oil cooler hose (where the bleeder plug used to be), to make sure the air is bled out?

I checked the heat and it blasts face melting air once it is warmed up. I ran it each time I bled it. I did not remove that hose for the oil cooler though. Though won't removing it at this point just introduce more air into the system? I also have shutters but haven't removed them. They are currently open while parked. On my drive home from work, when the truck gets hot again I will check to see if the shutters are closed or not.

If the weather is nice on Friday I will try bleeding it again. I've been parking it on a slight incline with the nose up when I've been bleeding it too. Would do it today but I work 8a-8p this week. I also drive 50 miles round trip each day so hopefully that is enough miles to move the air bubbles. Is the upper hose supposed to be empty when sitting cold? I squeezed it when checking the rad and it made a sucking sound and felt empty. Been a long time since I've done a pump so my sometimers is kicking in...

 

[Ken226]

I did not remove that hose for the oil cooler though. Though won't removing it at this point just introduce more air into the system?

I'm not sure. My truck doesn't have that hose, only a 8mm hex plug in that spot. Just pop the hose off for a sec, see if air comes out or coolant.

Is the upper hose supposed to be empty when sitting cold? I squeezed it when checking the rad and it made a sucking sound and felt empty.

I just went and checked the upper hose in my truck, and mine is definitely full of coolant. 100% full. My truck hasn't been started since yesterday, so it's dead cold and the upper hose feels full. It even feels a little inflated, as if there's a little pressure in the system.

I put on a new water pump wnd flushed my cooling system in March. Here's the current radiator level on a cold engine.





Weird how the new Mopar purple coolant looks rust red in some light. It turns purple in the shade.

 

[Redcup]

I'm not sure. My truck doesn't have that hose, only a 8mm hex plug in that spot. Just pop the hose off for a sec, see if air comes out or coolant.





I just went and checked the upper hose in my truck, and mine is definitely full of coolant. 100% full. My truck hasn't been started since yesterday, so it's dead cold and the upper hose feels full. It even feels a little inflated, as if there's a little pressure in the system.

I put on a new water pump wnd flushed my cooling system in March. Here's the current radiator level on a cold engine. View attachment 567568

Mine looks like the same level but that upper hose is squeezable. Like an empty hose. I've put two gallons of coolant in already. Isn't the system like 3 gallons? I don't remember that much coming out. I smell coolant every time I park but I just attributed that to the coolant draining everywhere. Gonna be pissed if I have to shell out another $300 to have the system flushed just to get it topped off.

 

[Ken226]

Mine looks like the same level but that upper hose is squeezable. Like an empty hose. I've put two gallons of coolant in already. Isn't the system like 3 gallons? I don't remember that much coming out. I smell coolant every time I park but I just attributed that to the coolant draining everywhere. Gonna be pissed if I have to shell out another $300 to have the system flushed just to get it topped off.

Yea, about 3 gallons. But the coolant in the heater core and in the block wouldn't have drained out when you replaced the water pump. So, wouldn't have been replaced.

If it were me, i'd remove the active grill shutters and take it for a test drive. See what happens.


Also, the Calorstat 192* thermostat I linked above is only 10$.


My truck doesn't have active grill shutters. It idles at 192* running down the interstate with a trailer attached it is still at 192*
In the morning, on my way to work, it goes up to 196, then when the thermostat opens it drops to about 188, then after a few minutes it settles on 192 and stays there.

 

[Redcup]

Yea, about 3 gallons. But the coolant in the heater core and in the block wouldn't have drained out when you replaced the water pump. So, wouldn't have been replaced.

If it were me, i'd remove the active grill shutters and take it for a test drive. See what happens.


Also, the Calorstat 192* thermostat I linked above is only 10$.


My truck doesn't have active grill shutters. It idles at 192* running down the interstate with a trailer attached it is still at 192*
In the morning, on my way to work, it goes up to 196, then when the thermostat opens it drops to about 188, then after a few minutes it settles on 192 and stays there.

Let's say I remove the shutters and the temps remain the same. What should I be checking next? That empty top hose has me thinking the system still has a ton of air in it. Other than that bleeder thing is there any other way of bleeding the system?

 

[Ken226]

Let's say I remove the shutters and the temps remain the same. What should I be checking next? That empty top hose has me thinking the system still has a ton of air in it. Other than that bleeder thing is there any other way of bleeding the system?

I let the engine idle, with the radiator cap ON, and vigorously squeeze the upper hose over and over

Then remove the cap, and top it off, and put the cap back on.

Then vigorously squeeze pump the hose again, over and over, for a couple minutes, then remove the radiator cap. If the level is lower than last time, there was air. Top it off, put the cap BACK ON and repeat.

repeat until the level is the same and stops dropping every time you pump the upper radiator hose.

If you've done that several times and the radiator level remains the same, then you've probably got all the air out. All this Happens with the engine idling. When your squeezing the radiator hose, the cap needs to be ON, so that squeezing creates pressure inside the system and helps push air bubbles around.


Also, TEST the thermostat. Put it in a pot of water on the kitchen stove and turn on the heat. Use a cooking thermometer to measure the water temp. You need to KNOW when it opens, not a guess. Not hopes, nor prayers, nor an assumption that because it was X, Y, or Z brand that it is good. Or bad.

Knowing, is when you've measured and observed with your own eyes. If you didn't measure and observe, then you don't know.

 

[Ken226]

Let's say I remove the shutters and the temps remain the same. What should I be checking next? That empty top hose has me thinking the system still has a ton of air in it. Other than that bleeder thing is there any other way of bleeding the system?

I forgot to mention earlier,

You can also remove the coolant temp sensor to burp the cooling system.

Thats a popular move because it's even higher than the bleed plug. Just remove the connector, then sensor, and fill the radiator until coolant drools out the sensor hole. Then put the sensor and connector back and top everything off. Do the upper hose squeeze/pump trick until it the coolant level stops dropping.

 

[Wild one]

Another option is face the truck uphill and fill it before you bolt the thermostat housing back on.Most thermostats fit in the block fairly snug,and you can fill the engine till anti-freeze is running out the bleed hole,then stick the housing back on,that gets rid of alot of the air in the system.The trick is to have the front end of the truck alot higher then the rear end

 

[Redcup]

I forgot to mention earlier,

You can also remove the coolant temp sensor to burp the cooling system.

Thats a popular move because it's even higher than the bleed plug. Just remove the connector, then sensor, and fill the radiator until coolant drools out the sensor hole. Then put the sensor and connector back and top everything off. Do the upper hose squeeze/pump trick until it the coolant level stops dropping.

Boiled the t-stat and it opening was never at a consistent temp. It varied from 201-218. So I ordered the t-stat mentioned earlier in the thread and will swap it out. Pissed that I spent $44 on this from Napa thinking it was a good one. Also wish I kept the box so I could take it back as defective and get my money back. I slapped the stat back in as I have to drive the truck. Bled everything as suggested and temps are still the same. Even driving to work this morning with ambient temps around 52 the truck still had temps around 220 while driving 65 on the interstate. Thankfully it has not gone above 228.

 

[Ken226]

Boiled the t-stat and it opening was never at a consistent temp. It varied from 201-218. So I ordered the t-stat mentioned earlier in the thread and will swap it out. Pissed that I spent $44 on this from Napa thinking it was a good one. Also wish I kept the box so I could take it back as defective and get my money back. I slapped the stat back in as I have to drive the truck. Bled everything as suggested and temps are still the same. Even driving to work this morning with ambient temps around 52 the truck still had temps around 220 while driving 65 on the interstate. Thankfully it has not gone above 228.

Let us know how it works out.

Worst case scenario, if there is another underlying issue causing higher temps, the 192* thermostat will open earlier and help keep things cooler.