Engine rattle sound

[Redcup]

Wait, I was a little confused earlier when you mentioned "smaller radiator in front", and now "grill shutters" in the way. Are you trying to use the thermal cam to look at the radiator from the front? Like, through the grill and shutters and AC condenser?

Open the hood and look from the engine bay side.
Also, shoot the thermostat housing with a laser thermometer, from the engine bay side.

You will have a really good view of the radiator if you remove the fan and shroud. I realize that it's a lot of work (it's not), but if this stuff was easy there's be no such thing as repair shops.

But even if you don't want to remove anything, you'll probably be able to see enough looking forward, through the spinning fan blades to see if there is a big, horizontal cool spot. But, it isn't really sounding like this is your problem.

This may be a dumb question, and probably is, but, are you checking the temp of the radiator and not the A/C condenser?

The A/C condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator.

Not gonna lie and yup I feel pretty dumb. Yes I was aiming through the front and the condenser. I try and remove the shroud (the bottom was not put back on) and try again. Not removing the clutch fan but will remove the electric fan. Yay get to get burned again lol Thankfully I'm still at work so I can use the fd's TIC. It also has a laser spot temp check.

EDIT: Not removing the shroud as I have to pull the upper radiator hose. Don't think work will be too happy leaving a mess. I will at least check the t-stat housing.

 

[Ken226]

(the bottom was not put back on)

If the lower half of the shroud is not in-place, you can crawl under and get a good view of the radiator. Especially the lower half, which is where sediment tend to settle and cause problems anyway.

Put it back on when you are done. The clutch fan is a little less effective when it isn't properly ducted. Otherwise, Ram would have definitely skipped the added expense of a shroud.

 

[Redcup]

If the lower half of the shroud is not in-place, you can crawl under and get a good view of the radiator. Especially the lower half, which is where sediment tend to settle and cause problems anyway.

Put it back on when you are done. The clutch fan is a little less effective when it isn't properly ducted. Otherwise, Ram would have definitely skipped the added expense of a shroud.

Checked the t-stat housing and it read between 174 and 178 while the dash showed constant 194. I also aimed at the backside where the temp sensor is. That read the same. Electric fan was on the whole time while it was idling for about 20 minutes. This was standing at the air cleaner box and aiming at the bracket and also climbing up and over to aim from the front of the engine.

 

[Ken226]

Checked the t-stat housing and it read between 174 and 178 while the dash showed constant 194. I also aimed at the backside where the temp sensor is. That read the same. Electric fan was on the whole time while it was idling for about 20 minutes. This was standing at the air cleaner box and aiming at the bracket and also climbing up and over to aim from the front of the engine.

So, it sounds like your coolant temp sensor may be reading too high. Maybe swap in your old one and see what happens.

As for the fan staying on all the time, I'm not sure. I'm assuming you are testing with the AC off? Because the air conditioner keeps the electric fan on.

Assuming you e-fan is running, when the engine is cool and the A/C is off, then possibly a stuck relay? Pull the relay and test it.

 

[Redcup]

So, it sounds like your coolant temp sensor may be reading too high. Maybe swap in your old one and see what happens.

As for the fan staying on all the time, I'm not sure. I'm assuming you are testing with the AC off? Because the air conditioner keeps the electric fan on.

Assuming you e-fan is running, when the engine is cool and the A/C is off, then possibly a stuck relay? Pull the relay and test it.

I don't have the old one as I had to include it with the core. I'll have to buy one. Brand recommendations? I usually go for Standard or Denso/NGK/NTK if available. And the ac is off. I tested the relay and it was bad. Was pretty toasty when I pulled it. Put a new one in and when I fired the truck up it wasn't on like usual. One mystery solved!

 

[Wild one]

I don't have the old one as I had to include it with the core. I'll have to buy one. Brand recommendations? I usually go for Standard or Denso/NGK/NTK if available. And the ac is off. I tested the relay and it was bad. Was pretty toasty when I pulled it. Put a new one in and when I fired the truck up it wasn't on like usual. One mystery solved!

Get an OEM sensor,aftermarket sensors have a rep of not playing nice with Chryco electronics

 

[Ken226]

I don't have the old one as I had to include it with the core. I'll have to buy one. Brand recommendations? I usually go for Standard or Denso/NGK/NTK if available. And the ac is off. I tested the relay and it was bad. Was pretty toasty when I pulled it. Put a new one in and when I fired the truck up it wasn't on like usual. One mystery solved!

Rather than just buy one, perhaps test the one you have first.

Do you have a multimeter?

If you don't have a multimeter, or are sufficiently confident that the sensor needs replaced, they're only about 50$ from Mopar. So, you won't have to sell a kidney if it turns out to not be the problem.




Water boils at 212*,

So get a coat hanger and some pliars. Bend the wire to create a hanger for the sensor that keeps the sensor probe submerged, while the connector is above water. You'll need some small alligator clips or terminals, so you can connect your multimeter leads to the two pins in the connector. If you try just holding the leads in your hand and touching them to the pins while it is over boiling water, you'll burn yourself with the steam.


Last time I tested some was in January, when I did my coolant flush and water pump replacement. i tested the older style plastic one from my outgoing pump, and a new style brass one from the new Mopar pump. The brass one 676 ohms in boiling water, and 695 ohms for the brass one.

Here is the thread from back then.

Overheat, HELP!

I miss my 1989 D-150. The D-150 is absolutely on my short list. It'll probably be my first project after I retire and get moved. I'll buy an old junker and rebuild and repaint it. I may even go with a Gen3 Hemi and use an aftermarket EFI system. Those kind of computers, i have no trouble...

www.ramforum.com

 

[Wild one]

Rather than just buy one, perhaps test the one you have first.

Do you have a multimeter?

If you don't have a multimeter, or are sufficiently confident that the sensor needs replaced, they're only about 50$ from Mopar. So, you won't have to sell a kidney if it turns out to not be the problem.




Water boils at 212*,

So get a coat hanger and some pliars. Bend the wire to create a hanger for the sensor that keeps the sensor probe submerged, while the connector is above water. You'll need some small alligator clips or terminals, so you can connect your multimeter leads to the two pins in the connector. If you try just holding the leads in your hand and touching them to the pins while it is over boiling water, you'll burn yourself with the steam.


Last time I tested some was in January, when I did my coolant flush and water pump replacement. i tested the older style plastic one from my outgoing pump, and a new style brass one from the new Mopar pump. The brass one 676 ohms in boiling water, and 695 ohms for the brass one.

Here is the thread from back then.

Overheat, HELP!

I miss my 1989 D-150. The D-150 is absolutely on my short list. It'll probably be my first project after I retire and get moved. I'll buy an old junker and rebuild and repaint it. I may even go with a Gen3 Hemi and use an aftermarket EFI system. Those kind of computers, i have no trouble...

www.ramforum.com

Here water starts to boil about 200 to 205,it only boils at 212 at sealevel.

At 4,000 feet altitude, water will start to boil at a temperature lower than 212°F (100°C), which is the boiling point at sea level. Specifically, it will boil at approximately 204°F (95.5°C). This is due to the lower atmospheric pressure at higher altitudes, which allows water to boil at a lower temperature

Water - Boiling Points vs. Altitude

Altitude - compared to Sea Level	Boiling Point
(ft)	(m)	(oF)	(oC)
-1000	-305	213.9	101.1
-750	-229	213.5	100.8
-500	-152	213.0	100.5
-250	-76	212.5	100.3
0	0	212.0	100.0
250	76	211.5	99.7
500	152	211.0	99.5
750	229	210.5	99.2
1000	305	210.1	98.9
1250	381	209.6	98.6
1500	457	209.1	98.4
1750	533	208.6	98.1
2000	610	208.1	97.8
2250	686	207.6	97.6
2500	762	207.2	97.3
2750	838	206.7	97.1
3000	914	206.2	96.8
3250	991	205.7	96.5
3500	1067	205.3	96.3
3750	1143	204.8	96.0
4000	1219	204.3	95.7
4250	1295	203.8	95.5
4500	1372	203.4	95.2
4750	1448	202.9	94.9
5000	1524	202.4	94.7
5250	1600	202.0	94.4
5500	1676	201.5	94.2
5750	1753	201.0	93.9
6000	1829	200.6	93.6
6250	1905	200.1	93.4
6500	1981	199.6	93.1
6750	2057	199.2	92.9
7000	2134	198.7	92.6
7250	2210	198.2	92.4
7500	2286	197.8	92.1
7750	2362	197.3	91.8
8000	2438	196.9	91.6
8250	2515	196.4	91.3
8500	2591	196.0	91.1
8750	2667	195.5	90.8
9000	2743	195.0	90.6
9250	2819	194.6	90.3
9500	2896	194.1	90.1
9750	2972	193.7	89.8
10000	3048	193.2	89.6

 

[Ken226]

Yea, i'm at 82ft. I figured, that's close enough.

Depending on where "Frozen Tundra" is, it could be a big deal for the OP when testing the sensor.

 

[Redcup]

I'm in SW Wisconsin. The elevation where my truck sits is 1158ft. According to the above chart water would boil at ~209 so would my resistance be a bit different? As it's only a few degrees different it should matter right?

 

[Ken226]

Yea, it will be a little different, but not much.

If @ boiling, you're getting roughly 680 ohms, plus or minus 20 ish, your sensor is likely fine.

If you getting 100+ ohms off, then it's obviously bad.

You laser showed about 194, and your dash shows like 220. 30 degrees off should show up as big difference in resistance.

Hang a meat thermometer in the water and watch the sensors resistance change as the water heats up, and you'll get a good idea of the resistance change per degree temp.

 

[Ken226]

@Redcup

Check out the pic in this post. Those bottom rows in the radiator seem to be first to fill with crud.

Post in thread 'Casting Sand: 6.4 Hemi HD Coolant Filter' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/casting-sand-6-4-hemi-hd-coolant-filter.187208/post-3023076

 

[Redcup]

@Redcup

Check out the pic in this post. Those bottom rows in the radiator seem to be first to fill with crud.

Post in thread 'Casting Sand: 6.4 Hemi HD Coolant Filter' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/casting-sand-6-4-hemi-hd-coolant-filter.187208/post-3023076

You're trying to give me a stroke aren't you... I'm back on duty Monday so I'll grab the TIC and crawl under the truck when I get in in the morning. Supposed to be a nice day so I shouldn't burn from crawling on the concrete.

I'll also measure the temp sensor when I have off next Friday. Just have to find a wire hanger.

 

[Wild one]

You're trying to give me a stroke aren't you... I'm back on duty Monday so I'll grab the TIC and crawl under the truck when I get in in the morning. Supposed to be a nice day so I shouldn't burn from crawling on the concrete.

I'll also measure the temp sensor when I have off next Friday. Just have to find a wire hanger.

Any piece of solid core wire will work,even household 14/2 wire,lol.The ground wire in household wiring makes good parts hangers

 

[Redcup]

Any piece of solid core wire will work,even household 14/2 wire,lol.The ground wire in household wiring makes good parts hangers

Tested the sensor and it seems to be within the resistance listed. I also tested again with a different laser temp gun and the temp shown on the dash is about 1 or 2 degrees off of what the gun shows. So safe to assume the sensor is good?

@Redcup

Check out the pic in this post. Those bottom rows in the radiator seem to be first to fill with crud.

Post in thread 'Casting Sand: 6.4 Hemi HD Coolant Filter' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/casting-sand-6-4-hemi-hd-coolant-filter.187208/post-3023076

So let's say I was able to check the radiator for cool spots, t-stat is good, fans are spinning, hot heat, and no air in the system. What else could be the issue? I removed the AGS got better temps then put it back and the high temps returned. When it was 105 yesterday my temp never went above 230. This was at highway speed (70) and ac on full blast. Similar temps when driving 55. Is this the new norm for this truck or?

 

[Wild one]

Tested the sensor and it seems to be within the resistance listed. I also tested again with a different laser temp gun and the temp shown on the dash is about 1 or 2 degrees off of what the gun shows. So safe to assume the sensor is good?




So let's say I was able to check the radiator for cool spots, t-stat is good, fans are spinning, hot heat, and no air in the system. What else could be the issue? I removed the AGS got better temps then put it back and the high temps returned. When it was 105 yesterday my temp never went above 230. This was at highway speed (70) and ac on full blast. Similar temps when driving 55. Is this the new norm for this truck or?

Pull the middle shutters out of the AGS for the summer,then pop them back in for the colder months.
By chance what grill do you have.
The Sport/Bighorn grills restrict airflow,the Honeycomb grill is far better at letting airflow through.
This is the grill you "don't" want

 

[Redcup]

Pull the middle shutters out of the AGS for the summer,then pop them back in for the colder months.
By chance what grill do you have.
The Sport/Bighorn grills restrict airflow,the Honeycomb grill is far better at letting airflow through.
This is the grill you "don't" want

Safe to assume this is the honeycomb? And this is the grill guard I have on as well.

Is it possible the actuator is defective for the AGS?

 

[Wild one]

Safe to assume this is the honeycomb? And this is the grill guard I have on as well.

Is it possible the actuator is defective for the AGS?

Have somebody start the truck while you look at the shutters,if they cycle/move odds are it's working properly.
Remove the middle shutters,just leave 1 top and 1 bottom shutter in on both sides.They just flex to pop out.
Pull the plastic cover at the top/front of the rad support,and you should be able to reach in and pop them out

 

[Redcup]

Have somebody start the truck while you look at the shutters,if they cycle/move odds are it's working properly.
Remove the middle shutters,just leave 1 top and 1 bottom shutter in on both sides.They just flex to pop out.
Pull the plastic cover at the top/front of the rad support,and you should be able to reach in and pop them out

Removed all but two on the bottom and one of the top. Same for both sides. And well it only dropped the temp a bit. Instead of steady 225-230 it's now steady 208-215. And when I was futzing around with the slats I figured I would squeeze the upper radiator hose. Welp it felt completely empty. So i popped the radiator cap and the fluid was at the top. Going to try bleeding it again tomorrow. This truck is really starting to remind me of my Isuzu Trooper I had. I loved being worked on and wanted attention. If I even looked at another truck the damn thing would throw a check engine light. I called it a flat top princess because it sure loved to ride on flat top wreckers.

 

[Wild one]

Removed all but two on the bottom and one of the top. Same for both sides. And well it only dropped the temp a bit. Instead of steady 225-230 it's now steady 208-215. And when I was futzing around with the slats I figured I would squeeze the upper radiator hose. Welp it felt completely empty. So i popped the radiator cap and the fluid was at the top. Going to try bleeding it again tomorrow. This truck is really starting to remind me of my Isuzu Trooper I had. I loved being worked on and wanted attention. If I even looked at another truck the damn thing would throw a check engine light. I called it a flat top princess because it sure loved to ride on flat top wreckers.

You only need to leave 1 in on the top and 1 on the bottom on each side,so take the extra 2 out that you left in at the bottom. There's a bleed plug on the engine,takes an 8mm allen to remove if i remember right,park the truck facing uphill or with the front tires on ramps,and slowly back the bleed plug out while it's running,you don't want to pull it right out,just back it out enough a little anti-freeze will bleed past it,and that'll burp the system if it's still got air in it,also run the heater at full temp while you're doing it.
What thermostat are you running,as you can get away with a 192 on a stock truck,with-out tuning,you can even drop down to a 180 with out tuning ,but i'd change the 180 back to a 192 or the factory 203 for the winter if you live where it gets cold