Engine rattle sound

[Ken226]

So is a flush and clutch in my future? Also is it safe to drive till I can afford this stuff? Like a month of to work and back?

I can't know. It's probably safe to drive, but that is a wild ass guess.

You said you re-checked the clutch fan and it seems fine to you, and the coolant seems clean, so I don't really know where to go from here. You are actually able to check these things, whereas i'm guessing based on what I read.

Maybe you should have a competent shop check it out.

What would be the best way to do it? Take the radiator cap off,

checking for a head gasket via combustion gas Chem test

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When you say the coolant came out clear. Do you mean like, water, clear? Mopar OEM coolant for your truck should be Purple.

 

[Redcup]

I can't know. It's probably safe to drive, but that is a wild ass guess.

checking for a head gasket via combustion gas Chem test

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When you say the coolant came out clear. Do you mean like, water, clear? It should be Purple.

Sorry. I meant it came out with no gunk or sludge. That it was the purple color that it should be. No tint from oil in it.

This **** came at the worst possible time. Money is super tight right now which is why I am going the self troubleshoot route. All I know is that before replacing the pump temps were fine and after well we all know the rest. Not mad at anyone and I really do appreciate all the help. I have learned a lot on this journey. I didn't even know that combustion tester was even a thing. Wish I didn't sell my Ford as I could park this till I could afford to have a shop mess with it.

 

[Wild one]

Sorry. I meant it came out with no gunk or sludge. That it was the purple color that it should be. No tint from oil in it.

This **** came at the worst possible time. Money is super tight right now which is why I am going the self troubleshoot route. All I know is that before replacing the pump temps were fine and after well we all know the rest. Not mad at anyone and I really do appreciate all the help. I have learned a lot on this journey. I didn't even know that combustion tester was even a thing. Wish I didn't sell my Ford as I could park this till I could afford to have a shop mess with it.

Did you replace the pump with a OEM pump,as it sounds like the pump itself might be some of your issues.Wouldn't be the first time i've seen a pump impeller that wasn't tight on the shaft and started slipping under load especially after the engine has warmed up to operating temp

 

[Redcup]

Did you replace the pump with a OEM pump,as it sounds like the pump might be some of your issues.Wouldn't be the first time i've seen a pump impeller that wasn't tight on the shaft and started slipping under load

Yup got it straight from the stealership in Dubuque. Thankfully no cops were on the interstate at that time as we made an hour and 10 minute drive in 25 minutes. It was 45 minutes before they closed when I called in and they had one left. No one else did including from the depot. Hate being a last minute ******** but no choice. But yeah it's OEM.

 

[Ken226]

Did you replace the pump with a OEM pump,as it sounds like the pump might be some of your issues.Wouldn't be the first time i've seen a pump impeller that wasn't tight on the shaft and started slipping under load

Yea, a bad knockoff Indmar Marine raw water pump did that once and cost me a a 4 bolt main 350 boat engine. Diagnosing it was pretty much impossible. Actually, it was pure dumb luck that I spotted it and didn't fry the replacement engine too.

Actually, I think I posted about it on Iboats, way back around 2013. Yea, here's the thread from when I almost smoked a brand new 383 stroker, because of an aftermarket water pump:

Engine overheat and water in the oil this weekend.

I de-winterized my 2000 Chaparral 5.7 Volvo Penta GL friday and went to Canyon lake. After about half a day of cruising around we we on plane about 35mph when my wife started yelling that something was wrong. I immediately stopped and shut off the engine. As soon as I stopped I could see smoke...

www.iboats.com

Yea, this whole time i've been assuming he went with a Mopar pump, given the recommendations on the first page of this thread. I'm way to cheap to risk having to do a job twice. No way i'd trust my engine to a parts store water pump after seizing the engine in my Chaparral.

 

[Ken226]

Yup got it straight from the stealership in Dubuque. Thankfully no cops were on the interstate at that time as we made an hour and 10 minute drive in 25 minutes. It was 45 minutes before they closed when I called in and they had one left. No one else did including from the depot. Hate being a last minute ******** but no choice. But yeah it's OEM.

At this point, if it were me, id dump some RMI-25 in it and keep on trucking.

Your temps aren't goin over 230, which, while not ideal, also isn't dangerous. That's about where the 5th gen trucks and the Durangos with the electric only fans run anyway.

Leave the stupid grill shutters out.

Dump in some RMI 25, and watch the temps religiously while you drive. Check your coolant daily and keep it topped up. Keep a jug in the truck so you can check it and top up before heading home from work. Give it a few weeks and see if the RMI25 helps.

 

[Redcup]

At this point, if it were me, id dump some RMI-25 in it and keep on trucking.

Your temps aren't goin over 230, which, while not ideal, also isn't dangerous. That's about where the 5th gen trucks and the Durangos with the electric only fans run anyway.

Leave the stupid grill shutters out.

Dump in some RMI 25, and watch the temps religiously while you drive. Check your coolant daily and keep it topped up. Keep a jug in the truck so you can check it and top up before heading home from work. Give it a few weeks and see if the RMI25 helps.

Before I grab a bottle will it be a problem if I already have Waterwetter in the system? I added a quart when I did the waterpump. Though it's probably diluted at this point since changing the thermostat I have added a gallonish of coolant. So out of six gallons I bought I have one full gallon left. And in the past two weeks I have added maybe 8 ozs.

 

[Ken226]

Before I grab a bottle will it be a problem if I already have Waterwetter in the system? I added a quart when I did the waterpump. Though it's probably diluted at this point since changing the thermostat I have added a gallonish of coolant. So out of six gallons I bought I have one full gallon left. And in the past two weeks I have added maybe 8 ozs.

I don't know for sure, but it probably would be fine give that it claims to be compatible with just about everything, and also has a water-wetter type additive, possible the same additive as water-wetter.

https://maxodyne.com/product/rmi-25-cooling-system-treatment/

I've never used any kind of additives. Just Mopar OAT purple.

 

[Wild one]

I still wouldn't write off it being a bad pump,as that's your common denominator,and i've ran into bad OEM water pumps

 

[Redcup]

I still wouldn't write off it being a bad pump,as that's your common denominator,and i've ran into bad OEM water pumps

How would you check this without ripping the truck apart? And if I did pull it off the truck what would I be looking for? The last pump was obvious as the pulley wobbled.

Also retested with combustion test. This time through the radiator and same negative results.

 

[Wild one]

How would you check this without ripping the truck apart? And if I did pull it off the truck what would I be looking for? The last pump was obvious as the pulley wobbled.

Also retested with combustion test. This time through the radiator and same negative results.

Water pump is easy to pull.About all you could do is take it off,and grab the shaft solidly then try and spin the vanes,and then spin it and chack for run out on the vanes.If the truck ran fine temperature wise with the old pump ,and didn't start running hot until you put a new pump on it,that would lead me to think that might be where alot of your issues are originating from. Especially if it'll drive fine for awhile ,but once it's at full operating temp and everything is under a higher load,aka engine rpm,is when your issues rear their head,would sure make me look at the replacement pump a little harder.You've done ever other test pretty well,and by now i highly doubt you'd have any air left in the system.

 

[Ken226]

How would you check this without ripping the truck apart? And if I did pull it off the truck what would I be looking for? The last pump was obvious as the pulley wobbled.

Also retested with combustion test. This time through the radiator and same negative results.

Just a random though of the evening after a 6 pack of Irish Red, and don't take this the wrong way, but

Double check your belt routing. Probably not it, and it may not even be possible to put it on wrong, but, it's worth a look. A water pump that's spinning backwards due to a belt routing error might not cool very well.

 

[Redcup]

Water pump is easy to pull.About all you could do is take it off,and grab the shaft solidly then try and spin the vanes,and then spin it and chack for run out on the vanes.If the truck ran fine temperature wise with the old pump ,and didn't start running hot until you put a new pump on it,that would lead me to think that might be where alot of your issues are originating from. Especially if it'll drive fine for awhile ,but once it's at full operating temp and everything is under a higher load,aka engine rpm,is when your issues rear their head,would sure make me look at the replacement pump a little harder.You've done ever other test pretty well,and by now i highly doubt you'd have any air left in the system.

Good thing it's under warranty. Just have to find a nice weekend to rip it out.

Just a random though of the evening after a 6 pack of Irish Red, and don't take this the wrong way, but

Double check your belt routing. Probably not it, and it may not even be possible to put it on wrong, but, it's worth a look. A water pump that's spinning backwards due to a belt routing error might not cool very well.

Yeah the fan is spinning clockwise and I double checked this morning.


Here's a odd thing. I drove to work this morning and the coolant temp didn't get any higher than 204, oil hit 205, and trans was pegged at 186. Once I got off the highway the coolant temp dropped to 195 and oil stayed at 204 while in town. Outside temp was 73, humidity 78%, didn't have ac running, driving the same speeds I always do (70 highway and 60 off the highway). Only thing I have done is that combustion test. The tester makes a small vacuum to pull any fumes out. I did have to pull out maybe 8-9 ounces of coolant so the tester wouldn't suck up coolant. I'll see what the drive home does and update this post. Supposed to be around 95 with a heat index of 100+.


Drive home update: Air temp 92 with a heat index of 95. Humidity 56%.
-Highway with ac on 66mph: temp slowly rose to 210 for the first 20 minutes.
-Main road with ac on 60mph: temp continued to rise to match oil temp of 215. Briefly hit 218. Turned ac off for maybe 2 minutes and it dropped to 210. Final temps at home: coolant 208, oil 215, trans 188.

I am so confused lol

 

[Redcup]

This is copied from above and would be from this Monday:

Drive home update: Air temp 92 with a heat index of 95. Humidity 56%.
-Highway with ac on 66mph: temp slowly rose to 210 for the first 20 minutes.
-Main road with ac on 60mph: temp continued to rise to match oil temp of 215. Briefly hit 218. Turned ac off for maybe 2 minutes and it dropped to 210. Final temps at home: coolant 208, oil 215, trans 188.

Driving to work yesterday temps were about 210 then home they were about 215. Driving to work this morning with the temp being 69 and light rain it was 199 with oil being 201 and trans being 156.

In the previous month it didn't matter the outside temp or when I was driving it. The temps were always 215-225 with oil being lockstep. Now the temps are cooler but I am guessing it is due to the cooler temps? But the temps were like this for a bit last week and my temps were high. Is my truck just screwing with me now? Did using that little combustion tester create enough of a vacuum that it pulled some trapped air out?

 

[Redcup]

Found the service procedure and now have to figure out if I want to drop $200 on a vacuum bleeder....

 

[mdc1990zr1]

Found the service procedure and now have to figure out if I want to drop $200 on a vacuum bleeder....

I parked my Ram with the nose pointing down and let it drain overnight. Next day I tightened plug and filled radiator. After a few minutes I added some more fluid to the top and turned the Ram uphill. Ran till thermostat opened with the heater on high squeezing air from top radiator hose. For the next few mornings after parking the truck uphill, I added more coolant to radiator. A few mornings later, it no longer displaced any air and was always full. No fuss, no muss, no adapters , not even a funnel. Didn’t even need to mess with the air vent plug on the water pump. Just took my time like the old days of replacing coolant. Let gravity be your friend.

 

[Redcup]

Doing the water pump and a flush tomorrow. I really really hope this fixes the problem. I'm at my wits end with this cooling thing. I even splurged and got the Uview coolant air purge kit that the service procedure lists. Would have rather spent that money on plugs and boots. But noooo the truck thinks it's hot stuff....

 

[Redcup]

Just kidding. The pump has been on back order. Thankfully I didn't rip it out. Talked with the dealership and it should in this coming Monday. Well I hope... At least the temps will be nice this weekend. Also no longer have access to the location that I could do the flush with a hose. Any suggestions on flushing the system without a garden hose?

 

[Redcup]

@Wild one @Ken226
I changed the pump with a new one and have noticed some changes:

1. The system seems to hold pressure now. I let the truck sit for a few (7) hours while at work and when I went to check the coolant the rad cap actually hissed when I removed it. Pipes are hard now too.
2. Drove it hard this morning (80mph on the highway with defrost on truck never went into eco or even shifted into 8th) and temps climbed to 215~ (oil was 206~)until I got into town. Drove 30mph and it quickly dropped to 190. So still runs warm under load.
3. When I first drove it after changing the pump on Monday the temp skyrocketed to 255 and quickly as it was jumping by 5s. Pulled over and I heard the fan kick in and the temps went back down to 190. Never did that again. Guessing there was air trapped somewhere. When I checked the coolant yesterday the reserve was originally at hot max when cool and now it was at one dot above cold min. So it sucked some coolant. Probably a bit of air still trapped.
4. That Airlift vacuum bleeder is amazing. Took ~2 minutes to replace the 2 gallons of coolant I drained out. Still going to burp it as others mentioned before as I don't 100% trust all the air is gone.
5. The oil temp used to cause the coolant temp to go up until they matched and temps were always the same. Now the oil is always cooler than the coolant. So coolant temp goes up and then the oil temp slowly goes up.
6. The front of the engine was caked with mud. Like it was driven straight into a mud pile. It is still caked on the alt. I scrubbed the engine face till there was zero dirt around the mounting surface. I did this last time too but I didn't realize just how much mud there was. When I removed the battery there was two inches of mud and rocks under it. Lifting the carpet back there is dirt and stones everywhere.
7. The engine side of the radiator has brown staining in the shape of the electric fan. I can also see the some of the fins have mud. Have a feeling there is a radiator in my future.
8. The clutch fan is caked in mud too. The clock spring at the center seems to have so serious corrosion too. I also noticed that the 36mm wrench was too big for the stud. Wondering if it is even the proper fan.

 

[Wild one]

@Wild one @Ken226
I changed the pump with a new one and have noticed some changes:

1. The system seems to hold pressure now. I let the truck sit for a few (7) hours while at work and when I went to check the coolant the rad cap actually hissed when I removed it. Pipes are hard now too.
2. Drove it hard this morning (80mph on the highway with defrost on truck never went into eco or even shifted into 8th) and temps climbed to 215~ (oil was 206~)until I got into town. Drove 30mph and it quickly dropped to 190. So still runs warm under load.
3. When I first drove it after changing the pump on Monday the temp skyrocketed to 255 and quickly as it was jumping by 5s. Pulled over and I heard the fan kick in and the temps went back down to 190. Never did that again. Guessing there was air trapped somewhere. When I checked the coolant yesterday the reserve was originally at hot max when cool and now it was at one dot above cold min. So it sucked some coolant. Probably a bit of air still trapped.
4. That Airlift vacuum bleeder is amazing. Took ~2 minutes to replace the 2 gallons of coolant I drained out. Still going to burp it as others mentioned before as I don't 100% trust all the air is gone.
5. The oil temp used to cause the coolant temp to go up until they matched and temps were always the same. Now the oil is always cooler than the coolant. So coolant temp goes up and then the oil temp slowly goes up.
6. The front of the engine was caked with mud. Like it was driven straight into a mud pile. It is still caked on the alt. I scrubbed the engine face till there was zero dirt around the mounting surface. I did this last time too but I didn't realize just how much mud there was. When I removed the battery there was two inches of mud and rocks under it. Lifting the carpet back there is dirt and stones everywhere.
7. The engine side of the radiator has brown staining in the shape of the electric fan. I can also see the some of the fins have mud. Have a feeling there is a radiator in my future.
8. The clutch fan is caked in mud too. The clock spring at the center seems to have so serious corrosion too. I also noticed that the 36mm wrench was too big for the stud. Wondering if it is even the proper fan.

Don't be scared to open the hood at your local carwash and wash the hell out of the engine and engine bay.Take some cover-alls and a set of ramps with you to your local carwash so you can get underneath it and wash the bottom side to.You don't park it in a heavy rainstorm,so don't be scared of washing it under the hood and on the bottom side