Engine Running Lean Fuel

[dsedlmeir]

Hey Everyone, this will be a bit long but I am in need of some advice pertaining to my truck. I drive a 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 SXT Hemi, 172,000kms, 6 speed, 4x4. My truck started getting sluggish a little over a month ago, finally threw a code. Cylinder 2 misfire. I replaced all spark plugs as I had never done it before. I installed iridium plugs(maybe this is causing the new issue but not sure), ran injector cleaner through(the bottle through the tank, dumped in empty tank, filled all the way up after). I then installed a new pcv valve. All of these things seemed to help improve performance but something still isn't quite right. Air filter is clean. Oil changed done religiously every 10,000, still using conventional oil, plan on switching to synthetic next change. I don't know a whole lot about engines but it still seems like it isn't quite getting enough fuel during acceleration. The bottom end was pretty sluggish before the new plugs and pcv valve but seems fine now. I notice it more above 1500rpm and up when accelerating. If I used the wrong plugs let me know. I am just trying to figure out what is wrong with it. It's my work truck and personal truck, I put over a tank of fuel through a week, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Lee Peterson]

It could be a lifter /cam failing. Does it make any tapping noise?

 

[dsedlmeir]

Nope, does the hemi tick, I'm sure I have to get manifold bolts replaced but thats it.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Check your intake manifold bolts. Mine had loosened causing a 219-B code. Once torqued again in sequence and code never came back

 

[WY.Ram]

Hey,

If it were me I would go back through the items that I had just replaced and double check any possible concerns. If there is any question about the correct plug, pull one and write the number down, confirm it is the correct plug. Make sure all your coils are seated correctly, all connectors are seated if you disconnected any.

Check that pcv valve for air leaks, it must be seated properly with both o-rings and the check valve in place. Both pointed stops on the pcv lid must be all they way seated and rotated in the clockwise direction. Mine requires some sort of plier to be applied to finish the rotation (my wife says I'm just a p****).

Check your manifold bolts (with a torque wrench. I broke one with a torque wrench. Cheap wrench, my story.)

If all the new parts are correct and installed corrwctly the best way to confirm your engine is operating properly or not is through monitoring your 'fuel trims'. Fuel trims are variables in the PCM that indicate what the O2 sensors are measuring in the exhaust stream, a lean or rich condition or stoichiometric balance. Actually, you look at your O2 sensors for that. By monitoring your trims and their behavior when the throttle blade is opened and closed, you can determine why your O2s are measuring a rich or lean condition, and can do so BEFORE your truck throws a code. This can be done in such a way if your truck is not in stoichiometric balance you can determine the exact or near exact cause, no shotgun parts change out required. It does takes some knowledge and skill.

To monitor your fuel trims you connect to your vehicle's PCM with a scan tool through the ODB2 port.

Another option would be to find a shop that knows what fuel trims are, and uses them for diagnostic purposes. I've not heard of one I could recommend but they have to be out there. I always hear of the dealer that won't do squat because no code is thrown. I have such an anti 'drive it till a code is thrown' attitude and the fact that the dealerships push this mantra is rather frustrating. But they do.

So, yours is a tough problem but it is solvable. A shop with the proper techs can have it diagnosed and repaired in an afternoon but it has to be a shop with the diagnostic protocol you seek. No code thrown.

If your interested in chasing that demon yourself just shout back with specifics about where you are and we'll try and keep you moving in a useful direction.