Factory ZF 8 speed transmission fill procedure after doing a tranny service

[Rod Knock]

Wow, more great info!

So my 2013 BW 44-44 had red fluid from the factory so I'm assuming thats the Shell Spirax? And thats what the Mopar 44-44 fluid is too right?

Also, Amsoil MVATF did really well in my 44-44 but is that because its one of the pre 2016s?

Yes, your transfer case takes a TES-389/Dexron III(H) or TES-295 class fluid. TES-295 is 100% synthetic ATF with a Dexron III(H) additive package and no manufacturer that has the certification, which runs in the hundreds of thousands, can change their formula without losing their certification. AMSOIL MV SS ATF was the correct fluid for that one, and so is AMSOIL Torque Drive or Redline Oil D4 ATF.

My only concern with Redline C+ ATF would be that it's too slippery and under intense use, it might cause the clutch to burn up. But if you only use 4WD once in a while, it shouldn't be a big deal.

m not in a rush to change my xfer case fluid just yet....differentials Ill do because they are pretty cut and dry. Transfer case (and transmission) Ill let play out in the forums for a little while to see what sticks.

If you drain your transfer case and red fluid comes out, it's Shell Spirax S2 A389, a mineral TES-389 (Dex III) fluid, the same stuff that your municipal garbage truck runs on. If it's amber or has an amber/blueish tint to it, then it's Mobilfluid LT. Mopar is selling industrial ATF and tractor fluid that they buy for like $2~$3 a quart and at a huge premium. If the fluid that comes out is red then you have a huge number of choices. If it's amber/blueish, then you either get Mopar 68049954AC (Mobilfluid LT) or Redline Oil MT-LV. Alternatively, you can get Mobilfluid 424, but it's thicker. The OEM stuff really stinks, and to add insult to injury it's more expensive than premium stuff like Amsoil or Redline. If you go over my previous posts you'll understand why they chose to use two types of fluids, though Mobilfluid LT will work perfectly fine in any BW44-45. I'm gonna do my xfer case in a few days. I'm 99.99% sure that the fluid will be red, but just in case, I ordered both Redline D4 ATF and Redline MT-LV. The transfer case is actually less work than the diffs.

This guy put 80W-90 GL5 gear oil in his BW44-44 transfer case and it worked just fine ... so don't overthink it .... though any soft metal in that xfer case will be corroded in the near future:

 

[Travis8352]

Yes, your transfer case takes a TES-389/Dexron III(H) or TES-295 class fluid. TES-295 is 100% synthetic ATF with a Dexron III(H) additive package and no manufacturer that has the certification, which runs in the hundreds of thousands, can change their formula without losing their certification. AMSOIL MV SS ATF was the correct fluid for that one, and so is AMSOIL Torque Drive or Redline Oil D4 ATF.

My only concern with Redline C+ ATF would be that it's too slippery and under intense use, it might cause the clutch to burn up. But if you only use 4WD once in a while, it shouldn't be a big deal.



If you drain your transfer case and red fluid comes out, it's Shell Spirax S2 A389, a mineral TES-389 (Dex III) fluid, the same stuff that your municipal garbage truck runs on. If it's amber or has an amber/blueish tint to it, then it's Mobilfluid LT. Mopar is selling industrial ATF and tractor fluid that they buy for like $2~$3 a quart and at a huge premium. If the fluid that comes out is red then you have a huge number of choices. If it's amber/blueish, then you either get Mopar 68049954AC (Mobilfluid LT) or Redline Oil MT-LV. Alternatively, you can get Mobilfluid 424, but it's thicker. The OEM stuff really stinks, and to add insult to injury it's more expensive than premium stuff like Amsoil or Redline. If you go over my previous posts you'll understand why they chose to use two types of fluids, though Mobilfluid LT will work perfectly fine in any BW44-45. I'm gonna do my xfer case in a few days. I'm 99.99% sure that the fluid will be red, but just in case, I ordered both Redline D4 ATF and Redline MT-LV. The transfer case is actually less work than the diffs.

This guy put 80W-90 GL5 gear oil in his BW44-44 transfer case and it worked just fine ... so don't overthink it .... though any soft metal in that xfer case will be corroded in the near future:

So my 2018 will be mobilfluid. So delvac 1 atf is a no go here from what im gathering?

 

[Rod Knock]

@Burla @Wild one @Hemi395

Do you guys happen to know the torque specs for the front and rear diff fill and drain plugs? I believe the transfer case is 15~20 ft-lb. I also have skid plates below the front diff and the transfer case and I have no idea what the torque specs are for those either.

I will do the diffs and transfer case probably Thursday or Friday this week.

 

[Rod Knock]

So my 2018 will be mobilfluid. So delvac 1 atf is a no go here from what im gathering?

I would just have both fluids ready when you drain and go by fluid color. Stick what Borg-Warner put in there. Red is Dex III / TES-389 / TES-295 and amber/blueish is Mobilfluid LT, alternatively, you can replace it with Redline MT-LV. That's the rule I'm following, and I should know in a few days and update you guys.

 

[Travis8352]

I would just have both fluids ready when you drain and go by fluid color. Stick what Borg-Warner put in there. Red is Dex III / TES-389 / TES-295 and amber/blueish is Mobilfluid LT, alternatively, you can replace it with Redline MT-LV. That's the rule I'm following, and I should know in a few days and update you guys.

Okay thanks for this info. Never would have known of the changes made in fluids

 

[Wild one]

@Burla @Wild one @Hemi395

Do you guys happen to know the torque specs for the front and rear diff fill and drain plugs? I believe the transfer case is 15~20 ft-lb. I also have skid plates below the front diff and the transfer case and I have no idea what the torque specs are for those either.

I will do the diffs and transfer case probably Thursday or Friday this week.

Good-n-tight is all i've ever torque'd a drain plug to,lol.

 

[Burla]

I couldn't find my inch pounds TW only my FT pound one, so I painted a line on mine, I think I do have the torque number for t case somewhere, I will look. Yeah it isnt where I thought it was, sorry man. It is low inch pounds whatever it was.

 

[Burla]

Good-n-tight is all i've ever torque'd a drain plug to,lol.

on this one I would go right til it stopped leaking plus 1/4 turn, any more you are messing with fire. T case covers love to crack if over tightened.

 

[chrisbh17]

For my 2017:

Transfer case

Rear diff

Cant find the front diff for some reason (its not listed in a chart). Maybe its the same?

 

[Burla]

I believe the chart good find, but man that seams heavy to me, whatever on that. 20 pounds plus ft pounds?

 

[Hemi395]

Yes, your transfer case takes a TES-389/Dexron III(H) or TES-295 class fluid. TES-295 is 100% synthetic ATF with a Dexron III(H) additive package and no manufacturer that has the certification, which runs in the hundreds of thousands, can change their formula without losing their certification. AMSOIL MV SS ATF was the correct fluid for that one, and so is AMSOIL Torque Drive or Redline Oil D4 ATF.

My only concern with Redline C+ ATF would be that it's too slippery and under intense use, it might cause the clutch to burn up. But if you only use 4WD once in a while, it shouldn't be a big deal.



If you drain your transfer case and red fluid comes out, it's Shell Spirax S2 A389, a mineral TES-389 (Dex III) fluid, the same stuff that your municipal garbage truck runs on. If it's amber or has an amber/blueish tint to it, then it's Mobilfluid LT. Mopar is selling industrial ATF and tractor fluid that they buy for like $2~$3 a quart and at a huge premium. If the fluid that comes out is red then you have a huge number of choices. If it's amber/blueish, then you either get Mopar 68049954AC (Mobilfluid LT) or Redline Oil MT-LV. Alternatively, you can get Mobilfluid 424, but it's thicker. The OEM stuff really stinks, and to add insult to injury it's more expensive than premium stuff like Amsoil or Redline. If you go over my previous posts you'll understand why they chose to use two types of fluids, though Mobilfluid LT will work perfectly fine in any BW44-45. I'm gonna do my xfer case in a few days. I'm 99.99% sure that the fluid will be red, but just in case, I ordered both Redline D4 ATF and Redline MT-LV. The transfer case is actually less work than the diffs.

This guy put 80W-90 GL5 gear oil in his BW44-44 transfer case and it worked just fine ... so don't overthink it .... though any soft metal in that xfer case will be corroded in the near future:

Awesome thank you! I currently have C+ in my 44-44 but I'll be switching it to Amsoil MVATF or RL D4. I have some Amsoil so I'll likely just use that.

Again, thanks for diving into this mystery fluid and getting the specs for it so we can all make an informed decision on what to put in the 44-44[emoji106]

 

[Rod Knock]

Awesome thank you! I currently have C+ in my 44-44 but I'll be switching it to Amsoil MVATF or RL D4. I have some Amsoil so I'll likely just use that.

Again, thanks for diving into this mystery fluid and getting the specs for it so we can all make an informed decision on what to put in the 44-44[emoji106]

You're more than welcome! To be perfectly honest, I have a small stash of Amsoil SVG 75W-90, 75W-140, MV SS ATF, 4 gal. MV SS ATL, 1 gal. Delvac 1 ATF, Valvoline 75W-90, and 75W-140 (I can pass this on to my dad, lol), and 30 quarts of Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I said I would go Red Line, but I might just hold off for a moment and "burn" through my stash first. Well, the Amsoil MV SS ATL is for the Hyundais. It's about that time to flush and change the trans fluids in them, and I just can't see myself spending $20/quart for Group III Hyundai Genuine SP4-M ATF, lol.

If anyone is wondering about the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 + Lubegard Bio-Tech combo - it works perfectly fine and the HEMI sounds really good with it. I have 6500 miles now on it and, if I don't forget, I will sample it and send it to Blackstone when I do the oil change.

I'm currently running 7.5 quarts Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 + 21 oz. of Lubegard Bio-Tech + PBL24651 larger oil filter. No, it's not overfilled, as the carrier oil that the Lubegard additives are in burns off when the engine reaches operating temperature for the first time. the extra 0.5 quarts of oil is for the larger oil filter.

 

[Rod Knock]

@Burla and @chrisbh17 thank you for the specs and advice. 52 ft-lb seems excessive for the diffs. Even my dad doesn't torque the drain bolts on his Freightliner semi that tight, lol. Even 20 ft-lb for the transfer case seems a bit much. I'll go less and just use some Permatex white high-temperature thread sealant. What do you think?

 

[Burla]

@Burla and @chrisbh17 thank you for the specs and advice. 52 ft-lb seems excessive for the diffs. Even my dad doesn't torque the drain bolts on his Freightliner semi that tight, lol. Even 20 ft-lb for the transfer case seems a bit much. I'll go less and just use some Permatex white high-temperature thread sealant. What do you think?

I put painters tape on it and left a 1/2 inch exposed down the middle and used some white spray paint. Not only does this mark location, but it marks depth and t case bolt sticks out. Then I just tightened to the exact spot it was at. The only reason I am cautious on this item was from the days when we tell stories about 4wd's and having these things crack. Better safe then sorry, but generally I do believe factory specs on torque settings. I would say though I used my t case very little, my fluid was very dark, that item must spin when not engaged or something, I have no idea why the fluid was as dark as tranny fluid.

 

[Rod Knock]

I put painters tape on it and left a 1/2 inch exposed down the middle and used some white spray paint. Not only does this mark location, but it marks depth and t case bolt sticks out. Then I just tightened to the exact spot it was at. The only reason I am cautious on this item was from the days when we tell stories about 4wd's and having these things crack. Better safe then sorry, but generally I do believe factory specs on torque settings. I would say though I used my t case very little, my fluid was very dark, that item must spin when not engaged or something, I have no idea why the fluid was as dark as tranny fluid.

Thanks for the info. Oh, the transfer case works all the time. It even has a simple oil pump that sucks fluid from the bottom and pushes it to the top. So the fluid will wear regardless if you use 4WD or low range. That's why I want to change mine. But hey, I've seen people who never changed their diff fluid or transfer case/transmission fluids for 150K+ miles, but they proudly proclaimed that they did all their oil changes on time, followed by their favorite brand of motor oil, lol.

 

[Travis8352]

You're more than welcome! To be perfectly honest, I have a small stash of Amsoil SVG 75W-90, 75W-140, MV SS ATF, 4 gal. MV SS ATL, 1 gal. Delvac 1 ATF, Valvoline 75W-90, and 75W-140 (I can pass this on to my dad, lol), and 30 quarts of Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I said I would go Red Line, but I might just hold off for a moment and "burn" through my stash first. Well, the Amsoil MV SS ATL is for the Hyundais. It's about that time to flush and change the trans fluids in them, and I just can't see myself spending $20/quart for Group III Hyundai Genuine SP4-M ATF, lol.

If anyone is wondering about the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 + Lubegard Bio-Tech combo - it works perfectly fine and the HEMI sounds really good with it. I have 6500 miles now on it and, if I don't forget, I will sample it and send it to Blackstone when I do the oil change.

I'm currently running 7.5 quarts Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 + 21 oz. of Lubegard Bio-Tech + PBL24651 larger oil filter. No, it's not overfilled, as the carrier oil that the Lubegard additives are in burns off when the engine reaches operating temperature for the first time. the extra 0.5 quarts of oil is for the larger oil filter.

Id be very interested in a uoa on 0w40 m1 fs. Im debating switching to it as its very cheap for what a great oil it is

 

[Rod Knock]

Id be very interested in a uoa on 0w40 m1 fs. Im debating switching to it as its very cheap for what a great oil it is

What are you running now in your HEMI?

 

[Travis8352]

What are you running now in your HEMI?

Schaeffers 9000 5w20. Working fine but at 9 bucks a quart i wouldnt mind running a 22 dollar 5 quart jug oil instead. No tick at all i just drive alot to justify 9 bucks a quart

 

[Wild one]

Has anybody tried out Tribolon (sp??) oil. There's a guy pushing it on a couple of the Hi-po facebook pages.

 

[Travis8352]

Has anybody tried out Tribolon (sp??) oil. There's a guy pushing it on a couple of the Hi-po facebook pages.

Cant even find it on google. Im interested in driven oil myself for another botique brand. mPAO base oil and ive heard 300 ppm of trinuclear moly