Familiar with auto tranny?

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so I watched a few videos of these springs being changed on a cheby transmission, you tranny guys wanna tell me if this kit would be worth it and what benefits to expect? thanks! also open to hearing any suggestions to increase firmness of shifts and general tranny performance.

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also wondering, is a deep pan still beneficial even if it is steel vs aluminum?
 

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Trans kits are beneficial as long as the transmission thery're installed in is in good condition. Firmer shifts actually improve band life and reduce internal heat.
Looks like the kit in question firms up the 2nd to 3rd shift only.
 
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do you have a shift kit you would recommend Al? preferably one where I wont have to drop the whole tranny..
 
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coming up on 170k. havnt smelled the fluid yet, will there be enough on the dipstick to be able to tell if it smells burnt? I was going to change the fluid/filter and adjust the bands in the near future.

However, I did look at the fluid and it is a orange color-not good from what I can tell...
 

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If it smells like burnt toast...not good.

Here's my fear. You drop the pan, install new filter, set bands, remove check valve, and install new cooler. And if you're daring, drop the valve body and install a shift kit. Probably something I wouldn't do unless you have some time. There are check balls and gaskets to replace in thier exact spots.

I'd also change the govenor pressure selenoid, and od/lockup selenoids as maintenance.

You bolt it back together and it works great, until some old brittle clutch facing decides it has had enough. Or nothing happens. Or it runs forever, Mine ran about 3 months after my kit was installed at 116k. It ran awesome, then lockup and OD failed.

I don't mean to scare ya, but installing a kit requires some patience.

This is the kit my guy installed.

TransGo | A500, A518, A618, 32-47 RH/RE: SK TFOD-DIESEL
 
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ahh I understand, man im not sure this is worth the risk, but I am sure the tranny needs fluid at least because from time to time when taking off from a start I hear the sound of metal on metal...*sigh*
 

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Drop the pan, change the fluid an filter. See whats inside the pan for debris. Adjust your bands and install a cooler and delte the checkvalve.
Start there and see how it goes.

Take some pics of what you find and we can diagnose it here.
 

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Yes, that's an excellent choice! Drain plug is a good idea as well.

I'd fab up some kind of bracketry to mount it on though. Those pull through straps suck!
 
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alright I can probably manage that, where would you suggest mounting?

also, what's the best set up? I think b&m suggest tranny-radiator-cooler-temp-tranny.


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People do different things. Mine is in front of the A/C condenser. Others remount them on the tube bracket between the condenser and the radiator.
Any plce the cooler recieves unobstructed air flow across it is best.

I believe my setup as suggested. I've tried reversing the process and haven't seen a difference in temps.

BTW, this would be an excellent time to intall a temp guage if you haven't. done so. You can mount it to the tube coming out of the bottom fitting of the in tank radiator cooler.. Run a ground wire over to the fender fromt the tee fitting and you're good.
 
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I will try to find a affordable gauge, might even shell out for a pod pillar...not sure yet.

just out of curiosity, would painting the cooler in engine enamel hinder the cooling ability?
 

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It is going to but how much I don't know. I would remove the paint on it and reshoot not paint over the coating the cooler comes with.
 
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hmm..wondering if its even worth the trouble lol might just leave it black
 
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