Figure 4 times longer anything you do up in the rust belt.

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48prerunner

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I knew it was going to be a pain but at least it is fixed. When I changed front rotors like a year or so ago I hoped i'd never have to do the wheel bearing. To get the rotors off took a 12 ton hydraulic puller and an air hammer but that worked great once I got to that solution.

So front hub thank God the axle moved free. I go the hard way at fist you know push the axle back to get the three bolts out. Then ***** around for like 5 hrs trying to get hub free from the spindle. You name it I tried it except the stud out bolt trick. Best was tried the big pipe wrench poor man's version of those hub shocker tools just bent it.

Today I take the whole spindle/knuckle off try the air hammer from the back no luck, think maybe have to drive 60 miles to get a bigger air hammer . Before I do that I take the small sledge lay that on back of bearing and smack it with the big sledge while supported between too logs. I was going to use the hydraulic press but set up would have been a pain. Oh i also used my mini sandblaster to clean up the bolts before I tried to move those the parts that stick out exposed and now the back of the hub. It moved not much but moved. Three hits later it was out.

So you people down south I envy you I bought a 66 mustang from SC back in the 80s crack a bolt loose and spin it out with you fingers. Well just needed a place to vent. The guy that changed his bearings in the hotel parking lot must have been stressful but don't try that with a northern truck. I'm just glad it happened in nice weather and I was home with my full shop.
 

stenerson

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I did the job (front hub) a couple times on my 3rd gen. (I think the first time at 125K). I live in the rust belt too, .unfortunately I'm at 76K now on my 2018 4 gen. Just curious, how many miles on yours? Hoping I'm a few years off before having to do it.
 
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BadHemi2014

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Yikes. I feel your pain. I haven't had to do that particular job yet, but it took me several days, a can of Blaster and plenty of elbow grease just to get my caliper bracket bolts loose to change my pads/rotors.
 
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48prerunner

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I'm at I think 115k I think I may have stressed the bearing on that side when I was trying to get the rotor unstuck a year or two ago, before I used the air hammer and the hydraulic puller. This time rotor came off by hand I bought Wagner rotors with the coating (from Home Depot lol) and I put a little anti-seize on the hub. Not sure how much longer I'm going to keep the Truck , before the bumper to bumper was up I brought it back to the dealer about the paint starting to bubble on the rear wheel lip. They said they doubted Chrysler would do anything because I'm in the north east. They sent me to their body shop they took pics and nothing. It was coming from inside out.
 

stenerson

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I'm at I think 115k I think I may have stressed the bearing on that side when I was trying to get the rotor unstuck a year or two ago, before I used the air hammer and the hydraulic puller. This time rotor came off by hand I bought Wagner rotors with the coating (from Home Depot lol).

I've done that job 3 times when I had my 3rd gen. Was lucky, never had to use air hammer or puller. I do remember struggling big time with a rear rotor the first time. Had to beat on it pretty hard. I'm doing my rear brakes this weak. I got Wagner oex pads and a NAPA brand Ultra Premium rotors. I did the fronts last November at 61K. They had plenty of meat left on them but the metal backing and the rotors were getting very crusty.
 
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Gort

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For the rust belt folks (like myself) -- watch Eric O. on the "South Main Auto" Youtube channel. Apparently, all that we really need are Fluid Film and a BF air hammer nicknamed "Big Nasty". ;)
 

svtnos

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For the rust belt folks (like myself) -- watch Eric O. on the "South Main Auto" Youtube channel. Apparently, all that we really need are Fluid Film and a BF air hammer nicknamed "Big Nasty". ;)
I am def a avid user of fluid film.. stuff works miracles
 

Gort

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I am def a avid user of fluid film.. stuff works miracles
I'm with you. I use a couple of cans a year between brake jobs and prepping for winter. I don't film the whole underside (although I probably should), but I do hit the parts that like to rust the fastest as well as just about any fasteners that I know I'm going to have to remove sometime.
 

PoMansRam

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For the rust belt folks (like myself) -- watch Eric O. on the "South Main Auto" Youtube channel. Apparently, all that we really need are Fluid Film and a BF air hammer nicknamed "Big Nasty". ;)

LOL no doubt. I think I've seen every one of his videos from the past 2-3yrs. That dude is simply amazing with anything from knuckle busting rust fused hubs to intricate electrical diagnostics.

I just did front rotors/pads on my 2019 classic and luckily the rotors fell right off after popping the factory star washers off the lug studs. That's a rarity after two Buffalo NY winters. I've had things fuse together in that little bit of time. While I was in there, I used a spray can of fluid film with the straw attached and shot fluid film around the tiny gap where the end of the CV shaft goes into the inside of the knuckle. Will that help the hub from corroding to the knuckle? Who knows. I never seize everything as well. I tend to make nice used vehicles. I hope the next guy appreciates it. LOL
 

Jeepwalker

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Rotor: Sometimes what can happen when trying to pull a rotor off with a puller, is the pulling action causes the hole to contract and 'pinch' itself tighter around the centering boss of the bearing/axle ...making the rotor even more difficult to pull off with a pullers. Same with drums. Applying heat onto the rotor with an acetylene torch between the studs and around the centering hole, almost always loosens the rust bond up. Sometimes a hammer blow between the studs may be required (after heating). You can hear the difference in the tone when it becomes 'loose'. Obviously you want to heat the rotor, not the axle or hub.

Wheel bearing: They're never easy when rusted, I agree. I find a good approach is to lower the A-arm onto a piece of square tubing onto a concrete floor (frame supported by a jackstand) THEN do your hammering. You can get really solid blows when the a-arm is rock-solid. Better than when it's just 'hanging there'. It's still going to require a bunch of sweaty work, perhaps, but give it a try.
 
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