Flashlogic FLRSCH10 install help

[W4ZWA]

Installed the Flashlogic FLRSCH10 auto start on my 2018 Express today however running into some issues. The "T" harnesses are in place and the tap into Orange and Yellow wire on the trailer module is done however when I follow the instructions to press the OEM remote I do not get the green LED flash as indicated on the programming procedure.

Anyone else have this auto start installed (successfully) and can maybe push me in the right direction?

 

[W4ZWA]

Problem solved. I crossed over the wire taps for the CanH and CanL wiring out of the unit to the trailer module wiring.

Anyone looking for a remote starter check out the FlashLogic line, great price and easy to install.....as long as you pay attention [emoji1787]

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[78Staff]

I tried one (FLRSCH10) but had nothing but problems getting it to program - turns out the seller had "pre-programmed" it but send instructions that indicated it needed to be dual programmed and it never worked right. I wound up sending it back and was considering ordering another one from a different vendor that didn't pre-program it.

But, I didn't see anything about tapping into the trailer brake module? It was all plug an play, or at least I though so .

 

[W4ZWA]

I believe the 18s had to be tapped. I got it working perfect when it figured out what I did wrong. It was sent preprogrammed to some extent but you have add additional programming once it learns your vehicle.

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[Toeknee]

Did anyone have issues downloading the software from flash logic site????????!?

 

[W4ZWA]

Did anyone have issues downloading the software from flash logic site????????!?

I was given a log in from my dealer to have access to the website. For whatever reason Internet explorer is on the only browser that can be used, luckily you have access to that with Windows 10. Outside of that oddity I've had no issues.

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[JohnnyMac]

I installed a FlashLogic (I'm pretty sure FLRSCH7) in my 2014 2500 and I had to splice 1 wire, but everything else was PnP. I did have some (self induced) issues getting it programmed, but once I actually followed the instructions, it worked like a champ.

** And no issues downloading the programming software. **

 

[hallster1994]

I just picked up a FLRSCH10 kit today for my 18 ram.. I see that it wants the CAN High and low wires spliced.. but the T harness supplied in the kit has no loose wires on it (they are all terminated with connectors). was this the case with your harness as well?

 

[W4ZWA]

Yes. Instructions should have which wire on the T harness to cut

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[Jimmy07]

I just picked up a FLRSCH10 kit today for my 18 ram.. I see that it wants the CAN High and low wires spliced.. but the T harness supplied in the kit has no loose wires on it (they are all terminated with connectors). was this the case with your harness as well?

According to the instructions, you need to cut the brown/red and brown/yellow wires loose from the connector.

 

[Kapt]

I didn't realize how much I would miss remote start when I bought my truck. How much do these kits cost?

 

[hallster1994]

so just to confirm my thoughts.. I have to open up the harness and cut & splice the brown/yellow and brown/red CAN wires into the truck...

and the kit cost me about $200 CAD.

 

[Jimmy07]

so just to confirm my thoughts.. I have to open up the harness and cut & splice the brown/yellow and brown/red CAN wires into the truck...

and the kit cost me about $200 CAD.

http://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/RS-CH8/DIR-CH(RS)-CH8-[FLRSCH10]-EN_20180918.pdf
You’re going to be using page 12 & 13 for your truck. Since you have a 2018, you can’t plug the obdII connector of the t harness into your trucks obdII port because it has a security gateway. That’s why you need to cut the wires free from the t harness and go straight to the CAN block via the trucks trailer brake controller module harness.

 

[Lawsuit11]

Most trucks have the connector factory installed for the hood latch and are wired to connector under you engine fuses. Spend $50 and you can run your own remote start wiring to the BCM and have factory remote start. No after market stuff


https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-add-remote-start-to-2017-ram.99849/


2018 Black Pearl Ram 1500

LED Tail Lights, Black Quad Halogens with LED conversion, LED Black 3rd Break Light, Blacked Out Emblems, Rims & Grill, 8.4 UAQ conversion! MTC to ATC Mod almost

 

[JoeBlow]

I'm trying to do this on my '18 1500 as well. It's the 5.7L. Anyways, I think I'm figuring it out but want to confirm. I found the brown/yellow and brown red wires that need to be cut. It says they connect to the can junction box if you look at p. 11 of the instructions: http://images.idatalink.com/corpora...CH8/OEM-CH(RS)-CH8-[FLRSCH10]-EN_20190114.pdf

I have a few questions regarding this. First what is the can junction box (if you have a pic I'd appreciate it). I have two female harnesses that were not connected to anything and hanging under the steering wheel. They were taped together and covered with some type of styrofoam. I suspect it's one of these? Assuming it is, how is the cut wire connected to this (again a pic of it connected would be appreciated)? Does it require soldering?

Along the same lines p. 12 of the same instructions mentions cutting another wire. It says to only do this if you have a ADS-HRN(RS)-CHR10 VER1.2. How do you know if you have this? I looked at the box and everything that came with mine and don't see any mention of anything like this. Since it says to cut the purple wire and solder it to the brown wire and I don't see either of those colors is it safe to assume I don't need to do this?

 

[Jimmy07]

I'm trying to do this on my '18 1500 as well. It's the 5.7L. Anyways, I think I'm figuring it out but want to confirm. I found the brown/yellow and brown red wires that need to be cut. It says they connect to the can junction box if you look at p. 11 of the instructions: http://images.idatalink.com/corpora...CH8/OEM-CH(RS)-CH8-[FLRSCH10]-EN_20190114.pdf

I have a few questions regarding this. First what is the can junction box (if you have a pic I'd appreciate it). I have two female harnesses that were not connected to anything and hanging under the steering wheel. They were taped together and covered with some type of styrofoam. I suspect it's one of these? Assuming it is, how is the cut wire connected to this (again a pic of it connected would be appreciated)? Does it require soldering?

Along the same lines p. 12 of the same instructions mentions cutting another wire. It says to only do this if you have a ADS-HRN(RS)-CHR10 VER1.2. How do you know if you have this? I looked at the box and everything that came with mine and don't see any mention of anything like this. Since it says to cut the purple wire and solder it to the brown wire and I don't see either of those colors is it safe to assume I don't need to do this?

Those two connectors that you found (one is a four position and the other is a ten position connector) are for the trailer brake controller module. It is the 10 position connector that you want to tap into pins 1 & 2. I don’t know why they refer to that connector as the CAN junction block, but it isn’t.

 

[JoeBlow]

I'm beyond pi$$ed right now. This was advertised as plug and play. This may be simple for some of you but the instructions are garbage. I am now on day 2 without this working and I could have easily bought another unit for $30 which has a youtube video on how to do it and is actually "plug and play" not cut and look around for a CAN junction box. I still don't get how the wires go into the trailer brake controller module. I just stripped the wires and plugged it in as per below. They don't really stay in unless I hold them. This can't be right? I'm getting a red flashing light but when I go through the progression the instructions say to program and hit the unlock button on my key it does not flash green.

 

[Jimmy07]

I'm beyond pi$$ed right now. This was advertised as plug and play. This may be simple for some of you but the instructions are garbage. I am now on day 2 without this working and I could have easily bought another unit for $30 which has a youtube video on how to do it and is actually "plug and play" not cut and look around for a CAN junction box. I still don't get how the wires go into the trailer brake controller module. I just stripped the wires and plugged it in as per below. They don't really stay in unless I hold them. This can't be right? I'm getting a red flashing light but when I go through the progression the instructions say to program and hit the unlock button on my key it does not flash green.

View attachment 154677

That’s the correct connector and positions, but you need to tap the actual wires going into the back of the connector. If you have strippers like these https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-...pri+Tools+20010+Precision+Wire+Stripper&psc=1 they will let you separate the insulation in the middle of the wire without cutting the wires. OR...I really hate mentioning these...you could use those t-taps.

 

[JoeBlow]

Ok so I need to strip the back wires and solder the brown red and brown yellow to their respective connections?

Also why do you "hate" to mention the T-taps? Is there something wrong with going that route. Sorry I'm just not familiar with them. Also any idea what guage the wire is or what size t-taps I'd need?

 

[Jimmy07]

Ok so I need to strip the back wires and solder the brown red and brown yellow to their respective connections?

Yes. That would be the proper way to do it.