For Those That Think You Don't Need A Catch Can For The Pentastar.

[Tach_tech]

That’s just a vent for the t-case/transmission. I can’t remember exactly which one.

 

[Quyonmob]

Good thread. I’m still on the fence, mostly from a longevity requirement standpoint.

 

[likes2build]

That’s just a vent for the t-case/transmission. I can’t remember exactly which one.

Thank you, must be transmission as it's a 2 WD truck. I would think FCA would put a little breather on it to keep dust / moisture out but what do I know, lol

As far as the catch can for me, I think I'll just my eye on everything oil mist wise inside the ducts / butterfly.

 

[Tangent]

Imma bump this up. Is there a link to one specifically made for the 3.6?

 

[Tangent]

https://www.custombilletstore.net/product_p/20011.htm

anyone use this one?

 

[KevinInVT]

https://www.custombilletstore.net/product_p/20011.htm

anyone use this one?

Yes, put the 3.6 as the engine option, that is the exact kit I bought. Quality of materials was fantastic. I would not hesitate to buy this kit again. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[Marine Les]

Educate me on catch cans, please. So this would catch oil that comes from where, cylinder blowby that is sucked into the intake from the crankcase? One catch can on this thread was half full after 300 miles indicating a lot of oil being burned. I just had my 1st oil change at 7500 miles and the dipstick was almost to the full mark so I guess a catch can on my truck would not have had much if any oil in it, yes? For those who use catch cans do you see a noticeable difference in the amount of oil collected when the engine is being worked hard like towing vs mild load driving?

 

[Kernal Clink]

You won't notice a loss of oil on your dipstick. It's not that much. The problem is that it sucks it back into the intake and the oil mist tends to collect on the throttle plate and plenum over time. There is a theory that this may lead to performance loss over the long haul. I won't discount that because I see where it very well could but my biggest concern was just keeping the electronics in the intake from gumming up. The sensors in that area are always the ones I see on all makes of vehicle that cause the problems with CEL. Even my reason could be ******** but for $40 it's cheap enough that if any of that is true it's worth it to me and if it's not true I won't cry about spending the money.

 

[KevinInVT]

I would say alot of what I collect, especially in winter, is fuel and water. It would be interesting to do an analysis of the contents. In summer months for me, I will collect a lot less in general, but it would be more oil than anything else. My thoughts are that sending these fluids back through my intake manifold just doesn't seem like a great idea.

Why not have one from the factory? Most people could care less and wouldn't want the added maintenance.

 

[likes2build]

You won't notice a loss of oil on your dipstick. It's not that much. The problem is that it sucks it back into the intake and the oil mist tends to collect on the throttle plate and plenum over time. There is a theory that this may lead to performance loss over the long haul. I won't discount that because I see where it very well could but my biggest concern was just keeping the electronics in the intake from gumming up. The sensors in that area are always the ones I see on all makes of vehicle that cause the problems with CEL. Even my reason could be ******** but for $40 it's cheap enough that if any of that is true it's worth it to me and if it's not true I won't cry about spending the money.

Who is the supplier for the $40 catch can for a 3.6?

 

[KevinInVT]

eBay? I do see mishimoto knock offs for cheap. My last truck I bought a "cheap" 75$ can from summit. It was tiny and filled up quick, the can was plastic and could be hard to thread in correctly.

I splurged this go around on the billet tech can and don't regret it. It was pricey but it will last indefinitely and the quality is far superior. It came with hoses and barbs as well so I had everything for the install in one shot.

 

[Kernal Clink]

Who is the supplier for the $40 catch can for a 3.6?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JN7KLCZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was actually $21. Add gas to the store and back plus the hoses. The whole can is aluminum but the mounting bracket is crap. I flipped it over and reinforced it with a small piece of 1/8" aluminum plate on the inside of the airbox when I mounted it. I haven't emptied it yet so I have no idea how long it takes to fill it.

 

[tap4154]

Not doubting OP, but my experience with the 3.6 has been different. Needed to remove the throttle body at about 75k miles to replace the thermostat. Throttle body was near spotless, intake manifold was clean and dry. I saw no reason to even consider adding a catch can. This was on a '12 Wrangler. Same ****, different vehicle.

Maybe it's just the tickin' Hemis that need a catch can?

Good to know this

 

[kmrtnsn]

"Oil and chemical laden air". Oh, you mean combustibles?

 

[clay282]

I just stumbled on this thread and I think there's some basic points being missed and the catch can idea seems like a bigger solution than it actually is.

GDI, Turbo motors, high compression over square motors, have had a past history of carbon buildup. The carbon buildup on the valves causes power loss. Oil and oil additives sorta ran BEHIND the technology. Port injection actually cleaned valves and you didn't see carbon buildup, even though blowbye oil was still entering the intake just like our trucks. Basically it's always been the same way, the gasoline just cleaned it and you didn't see buildup.

Now the oils have caught up to the technology and the manufacturer determines what's needed in the detergent of the oil to prevent carbon buildup. This is where you see certification labels for SN Plus, Dexos 2 etc. These full synthetic oils have additives to prevent the carbon buildup. A full synthetic doesn't have the vapor and flashpoint of old dino oil or a synthetic "blend", which still has half dino oil. If your running plain dino oil, your probably causing more carbon deposits in 3000 mile oil changes than a full synthetic oil leaves at 10,000 mile changes.

Full synthetic with standards way higher than RAM needs has become cheap. Full synthetic is far better for your motor overall than cheap synthetic blends or plain dino oil. Vehicles from the last few years running full synthetic aren't seeing carbon buildup issues. Why not run a product that won't cause the problem in the first place instead of installing a catch can? That's like... taking a flu shot AFTER you got the flu.