Frame surface rust or rot

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mlappin

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When shopping for my current truck I looked at a few that came from Quebec, spent one winter there when new and were junk. Same year as the ‘16 I bought but were rust buckets already. To even use the factory reciever would take a sledge hammer to drive the hitch in. Anything under the hood that was aluminum or plated was also corroded.
Buyer beware, a ton of used vehicles in the states were brought in from the Quebec area. I can’t even imagine how bad the rust would have been on a used vehicle that spent 2-3 years up there or more.
 

RaptorHD

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I will only say this, oil type products on your car/frame = BAD!

Do it right the first time and you will thank me for it! I restore vehicles, dealt with plenty of rust--mine have NONE!

If you pressure wash do not go to a roadside carwash, alot of them just filter water and reuse it, so you are spraying your truck with more salt, always use fresh water at home.

Get some dialectric grease for your electrical contacts, this is the best- https://www.chiefaircraft.com/dow-d...uwCJs1Oq0tYr6UD2eSYH8yqcyqfCELK4aAnGLEALw_wcB

I was in the Navy, They know about corrosion control!

for your frames that need a redo-- https://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html?ApplyPromo=bf2a
or
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-2k-ceramic-chassis-black-kits.html

I use these on my restorations (satin black) done correctly you should never see rust again and your frame will look like the day you got it.
I never have issues with rust.
 

WY.Ram

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WOW. That turned out GREAT! You must be just as **** as me LOL

I have contemplated doing this in the past but have yet to follow through. Seems like A LOT of work. Roughly how long did it take you? Did you cover the entire truck with visqueen or something to prevent overspray from getting on paint and windows?
Thanks man, and yeah **** as hell is probably an accurate description. My wife would probably describe it five other ways and none nearly as nice. Lol

Sorry bout the length here

I didn't use any mask (on the truck) when I sprayed. I normally Spend twice the time masking as spraying. But the frame & Most other targets are far enough under So the the body paint wasn't at risk. I did the majority of job lying on my back and was very careful with the areosol 'on' times, Short quick bursts only, which pumped my hands to fatigue. It required both hands, this exposed my significantly challenged aim & control w my left, It actually caused a lot of anxiety.

I had some overspray issues but they were all underneath, which usually resulted in me painting the oversprayed area also, fuel tank, bed bottom, power shock, Spare tire heat Shield, etc. lol. I painted the rear axle shock a good 4 times. I wanted it match the Thuren Overland shocks which are white and that rear axle shock is just located in a space prone to overspray from every direction.

The job was actually rather difficult for the analy ~ impaired. ha. No matter the effort to Spray every surface it seemed every time I looked I could find Some topside, inside, otherside that I had missed. I did primer coat in Terracotta, which made easy to see coated area, both for primer then for paint, but covering up all the ugly terracotta was a serious pita. Four Cans of primer, 12 cans of black paint. (purchased four at a time, lol).

My take on the rattle cans ~ Super useful with the 'spray any direction' tip! Outstanding feature. also the ability to access tight spaces w the can is extremely helpful, But the efficiency of the rattle can Is very low. I don't remember the ounces of paint used, but it was redonkulous. The majority of the 12 cans used were the really big cans with 30% extra in each. So the volume used was excessive, a lot went to the floor as over spray dust, a lot went to my face & respirator, a fair amount lost to my left handed aim and my inability to get my left finger off the trigger quickly and some went to painting areas that didn't need It but had terracotta primer overspray so they got it. Remove All those 'me' issues and the paint volume was still stupid. I regularly use several different paint spray systems through out the year, HVLP, airless, airbrush and there is just no reason for the high areosol volume. I didn't huff that much, at least that's my story!

The time required was almost as excessive as the paint volume. I know there are better ways to do it, but the rust project was not the main reason I was there. The chassis paint was the second add on, The main project was the Thuren upgrade. And I then I added full brake replacement (everything but rear caliper). The chassis paint was added after the brakes. The time was longer then necessary but I had scheduled my truck to be down for a bit and I was in no hurry, I just wanted everything right. The truck was down for around 10 days total. The paint took as much time as anything else for sure.

If a person were prepared (paint on hand, ha ), then Surface prep and disassemble, followed the recoat times (assuming three coats, 1 primer and 2 paint), a 24 hr final cure, and reassemble...I'm at minimum of Three total days scheduled with the truck off. I was on my z-creep. Im sure a shop could turn it around faster.

~ It could be kept to a couple days maybe, But thats kinda pushing it for me. might work well for some but something will derail me.

With all that Yabber, I don't recommend the rattle cans as first choice. If I were to do it again I would use this for the coating - Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black and Eastwood Rust Encapsulater Platinum (see build thread 'My 12v Cummins build' from member 1500ram12 and post #22 above), Eastwood Chassis Paint does come in an aerosol can.

Then use an HVLP pressure pot and feed system like the one shown in the pic. A Spray gun with one or two hoses attached thats it. Paint stays Stationary in pressurized pot and spray gun will spray any angle for along as you need, it'll be as nimble as the can, way more efficient, far less fatigue (no left hand nuthin), and a fine finish. If not though aerosol can finish works and looks good, and Eastwood Chassis paint does come In an areosol can.

I think a pressure pot system can be rented, otherwise they can be expensive. A compressor Is needed also, like 15 cfm compressor.

Have a first class respirator, No matter

So far, mine won't require more than annual touch up. With that said here comes winter.


'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 z36, EBC Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass .................
17039226fa4760a1912fa6c279ef6cf0.jpgba6c63a2bbeaf59d96b124b2a1e8d48e.jpg
 

WY.Ram

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What or who is Kron? I bought a brand new 2019 1500 Classic last January. Thinking of having it rust proofed. Ziebart will cost me about $369 to do the rocker and other areas under the truck. I can bring it back each year and for $50 they will inspect it and touch it up where ever necessary. Good deal? Other recommendations. I never see my questions answered on this website, I really hope I hear back on this one. Thanks. [email protected]
If I could get my chassis sprayed with Eastwood products for $400, I would be all over it, every car my family has would be done.

I've never applied the Krown to my truck but from what I've read the Krown product is a coating that stays wet, oily, so it has the potential to pick up debris through out the year and might really suck to work on after its been applied. Just my opinion. Besides I'm dirty enough when I get done.
But if you don't do your own, maybe I guess, but I still wouldn't.
 

olyelr

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Thanks man, and yeah **** as hell is probably an accurate description. My wife would probably describe it five other ways and none nearly as nice. Lol

Sorry bout the length here

I didn't use any mask (on the truck) when I sprayed. I normally Spend twice the time masking as spraying. But the frame & Most other targets are far enough under So the the body paint wasn't at risk. I did the majority of job lying on my back and was very careful with the areosol 'on' times, Short quick bursts only, which pumped my hands to fatigue. It required both hands, this exposed my significantly challenged aim & control w my left, It actually caused a lot of anxiety.

I had some overspray issues but they were all underneath, which usually resulted in me painting the oversprayed area also, fuel tank, bed bottom, power shock, Spare tire heat Shield, etc. lol. I painted the rear axle shock a good 4 times. I wanted it match the Thuren Overland shocks which are white and that rear axle shock is just located in a space prone to overspray from every direction.

The job was actually rather difficult for the analy ~ impaired. ha. No matter the effort to Spray every surface it seemed every time I looked I could find Some topside, inside, otherside that I had missed. I did primer coat in Terracotta, which made easy to see coated area, both for primer then for paint, but covering up all the ugly terracotta was a serious pita. Four Cans of primer, 12 cans of black paint. (purchased four at a time, lol).

My take on the rattle cans ~ Super useful with the 'spray any direction' tip! Outstanding feature. also the ability to access tight spaces w the can is extremely helpful, But the efficiency of the rattle can Is very low. I don't remember the ounces of paint used, but it was redonkulous. The majority of the 12 cans used were the really big cans with 30% extra in each. So the volume used was excessive, a lot went to the floor as over spray dust, a lot went to my face & respirator, a fair amount lost to my left handed aim and my inability to get my left finger off the trigger quickly and some went to painting areas that didn't need It but had terracotta primer overspray so they got it. Remove All those 'me' issues and the paint volume was still stupid. I regularly use several different paint spray systems through out the year, HVLP, airless, airbrush and there is just no reason for the high areosol volume. I didn't huff that much, at least that's my story!

The time required was almost as excessive as the paint volume. I know there are better ways to do it, but the rust project was not the main reason I was there. The chassis paint was the second add on, The main project was the Thuren upgrade. And I then I added full brake replacement (everything but rear caliper). The chassis paint was added after the brakes. The time was longer then necessary but I had scheduled my truck to be down for a bit and I was in no hurry, I just wanted everything right. The truck was down for around 10 days total. The paint took as much time as anything else for sure.

If a person were prepared (paint on hand, ha ), then Surface prep and disassemble, followed the recoat times (assuming three coats, 1 primer and 2 paint), a 24 hr final cure, and reassemble...I'm at minimum of Three total days scheduled with the truck off. I was on my z-creep. Im sure a shop could turn it around faster.

~ It could be kept to a couple days maybe, But thats kinda pushing it for me. might work well for some but something will derail me.

With all that Yabber, I don't recommend the rattle cans as first choice. If I were to do it again I would use this for the coating - Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black and Eastwood Rust Encapsulater Platinum (see build thread 'My 12v Cummins build' from member 1500ram12 and post #22 above), Eastwood Chassis Paint does come in an aerosol can.

Then use an HVLP pressure pot and feed system like the one shown in the pic. A Spray gun with one or two hoses attached thats it. Paint stays Stationary in pressurized pot and spray gun will spray any angle for along as you need, it'll be as nimble as the can, way more efficient, far less fatigue (no left hand nuthin), and a fine finish. If not though aerosol can finish works and looks good, and Eastwood Chassis paint does come In an areosol can.

I think a pressure pot system can be rented, otherwise they can be expensive. A compressor Is needed also, like 15 cfm compressor.

Have a first class respirator, No matter

So far, mine won't require more than annual touch up. With that said here comes winter.


'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 z36, EBC Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass .................
17039226fa4760a1912fa6c279ef6cf0.jpgba6c63a2bbeaf59d96b124b2a1e8d48e.jpg


Heck yea man thanks for the long winded response, I appreciate it!


Hmmmmm, decisions decisions. I have the fluid film gun setup that I have been using since the truck was new. I coat the interior of the rockers/fenders/doors etc, and have been spraying the entire undercarriage as well. I think I want to stop doing the undercarriage with the fluid film and start using real paint.
 

WY.Ram

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Heck yea man thanks for the long winded response, I appreciate it!


Hmmmmm, decisions decisions. I have the fluid film gun setup that I have been using since the truck was new. I coat the interior of the rockers/fenders/doors etc, and have been spraying the entire undercarriage as well. I think I want to stop doing the undercarriage with the fluid film and start using real paint.
What are the negatives of the fluid film that has you considering your options?
 

Halligan

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I'm a fan of Fluid Film. As a matter of fact I'll be doing my trucks undercarriage this week so she's ready for winter.I like Fluid Film over paint because when using my spray gun with different wands I can get into the inner frame and rocker panels. You can't do that with paint cans. Fluid Film also had good creeping properties to really get into the nook and crannies. Basically you spray it everywhere except the exhaust.

Yes it does attract dirt and you'll get dirty if you work underneath it after it's been sprayed but I don't care. I want the protection it provides.
 

olyelr

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I'm a fan of Fluid Film. As a matter of fact I'll be doing my trucks undercarriage this week so she's ready for winter.I like Fluid Film over paint because when using my spray gun with different wands I can get into the inner frame and rocker panels. You can't do that with paint cans. Fluid Film also had good creeping properties to really get into the nook and crannies. Basically you spray it everywhere except the exhaust.

Yes it does attract dirt and you'll get dirty if you work underneath it after it's been sprayed but I don't care. I want the protection it provides.


What are the negatives of the fluid film that has you considering your options?


Oh dont get me wrong, I am a huge Fluid Film guy...been soaking my truck with it since I bought it new. My issue with Fluid Film on the frame/axles/suspension etc. is that it is all gone by about the first month of winter. I wash my truck religiously to keep the salt off it, essentially washing the fluid film off. However, its great in the rockers/door panels/inner fenders/inner tailgate etc. as it never gets washed off and sticks around for a long time. I haven’t even did an application on my truck yet this year and it is still wicking fluid film out of the frame holes. I will continue to spray it in the “hidden” areas as it provides the barrier that hopefully prevents rot out later on down the road.

I think since it is so damn cold out now that this year I will just soak the undercarriage with fluid film again, and then once it warms back up in the spring do a good cleaning and paint it. It is obviously a **** ton of work, but I think it is worth it.
 

Halligan

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Those pictures right there should be a testament for anyone considering Fluid Film. Four years of Michigan winters and the underneath looks factory fresh.

I hear ya on it being a pain to apply, and I don't have a lift (jealous). I only do it once a season and it seems to be enough for the winters we have been having in my area lately. Painting would certainly help prevent corrosion as well but I'm wacky enough that if I painted the undercarriage I'd still Fluid Film it for extra measure.
 

olyelr

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Those pictures right there should be a testament for anyone considering Fluid Film. Four years of Michigan winters and the underneath looks factory fresh.



Haaaaaa, I wish thats how it looked under there! But, it always looks fresh and new after a fluid film application lol. And that was probably after only two winters...old pics.


These are fresh pics from today, after 4 winters and never painting a single thing. Has been fluid filmed before each winter. Not too bad in my opinion, but could be better...

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olyelr

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And here you can see the fluid film weeping out of the frame holes...

7A7219C9-9019-43BB-A079-7E213AC18386.jpeg
 

Halligan

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That's about what my 2015 looks like and still not bad considering. I power washed my undercarriage today to clean it up good. Tomorrow will be an oil change and the Fluid Film treatment.
 
OP
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Blanked

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I just cant see how you can do a good job with the vehicle up on jack stands
 

olyelr

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I just cant see how you can do a good job with the vehicle up on jack stands


You can do just as good as if it was up in the air on a hoist...just have to do everything laying on your back instead.
 

WY.Ram

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That right there says it all! Truck Looks outstanding. Nice truck, garage, and lift.

So my rust photos up above are after five full seasons on Colorado roads, fresh water power wash consistently for the last three seasons but the first two seasons were not so diligent. I've never applied any protection until now, let march

I don't know what kind of salts they lay down up north, but here I think its mag chloride. If you've had fluid film on, That has to be some serious ice melt they are throwing down. What does a vehicle look like underneath if no protection is ever applied?

Yeah, your lift looks way more convenient than my z-creep, for sure. Well, If you decide to paint it, you're welcome to use my pressure feed, just send it back when your done. Ha. It'll need a compressor. Its a 2 gallon pressure pot w agitation and a devilbiss spray gun. Maybe Your fluid film system handles other material and would work, but if not shout.

Obviously for the time it takes and what your battling I wouldn't go anything less than Eastwood. Thats crazy they do that to everyone's investment.
 
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olyelr

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That right there says it all! Truck Looks outstanding. Nice truck, garage, and lift. Makes me feel like I gotta go clean mine right now.






'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 z36, EBC Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass .................


The only thing visible in those pics that is mine is the pickup truck LOL


Thats my ol mans place...so nice!
 

Zoe Saldana

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Haaaaaa, I wish thats how it looked under there! But, it always looks fresh and new after a fluid film application lol. And that was probably after only two winters...old pics.


These are fresh pics from today, after 4 winters and never painting a single thing. Has been fluid filmed before each winter. Not too bad in my opinion, but could be better...

]


You should hit the rusted areas with some Rustoleum flat black and then FF.

Also, get FF on any rubber parts, it protects them also.
 

olyelr

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Obviously the fluid film doesn't hang in that good.After my trucks are sprayed by Krown everything has a visible coating that never dries up.


Oh it hangs around pretty damn well as long as it isnt getting powerwashed off. I just cant let myself not powerwash the undercarriage all winter. Inside the frame rails, tailgate, rockers etc are all still sopping wet at the end of summer when I apply it again.
 
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