Front Bearing

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U100

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Had to have the passenger side front bearing assembly on my ‘16 1500 4WD replaced at around 20,000 miles. Started noticing a growling sound from front end that was speed related; jacked up and checked the front wheels and the driver’s side spun freely while it took considerable effort to turn the passenger side. Work was done under warranty.
 

indept

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Had to have the passenger side front bearing assembly on my ‘16 1500 4WD replaced at around 20,000 miles. Started noticing a growling sound from front end that was speed related; jacked up and checked the front wheels and the driver’s side spun freely while it took considerable effort to turn the passenger side. Work was done under warranty.
Ouch. Maybe infant mortality as far as parts go, don't see complaints here about failures that low of mileage.
 

PaulTGarrett

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How is that any better, you still have a bearing that can seize once it gets worn out. Looks like a pretty small bearing at that.

The bearings on the spindle kit are standard-sized wheel bearings. They have two benefits, one, they are spaced further apart and are closer to the center-line of the wheel, supporting the weight on the spindle, instead of the end of the axle stub shaft.

Two, they are easily serviceable, well, serviceable period. I can (and will) carry a set of pre-greased bearings and a seal with me. All it takes to change them out is an allen tool and a spindle nut socket. In a pinch I can use a hammer and punch to get the spindle nuts off and back on.

Can full floating bearings also fail? Yes. I had a set go out on my old '78 Bronco while driving down I-75. Difference is, I felt the wobble in the steering wheel and pulled over before anything came loose. Everything inside the wheel hub was destroyed, everything from the steering knuckle out had to be replaced. But the wheel did not come off, the wheel did not collapse under the front end, the vehicle was in no danger of losing control and endangering others. I was able to get home simply by gutting out the inside of the wheel hub, putting in new bearings, and driving home. Just a couple hours work in a gas station back parking lot. Got home and then replaced the axle stub, spindle, bearings, seals, brake rotor, caliper, pads, and locking hub. A lot of work but I was at least able to drive the truck home.

Unlike the unit bearing, which can, has, and will fail without warning, sending the vehicle seriously out of control.
 

indept

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Sounds like a good setup especially since you have a lot more weight riding on your 2500 than I have on the 1500.
 

Gary2

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I have not tried it but have seen a number of times written that we can pull the sensor out of our hub easily and pump grease into the wheel bearings . Just put one of those rubber bullet nosed tips on your grease gun to keep it neat and clean .
 

22hemi13

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I have not tried it but have seen a number of times written that we can pull the sensor out of our hub easily and pump grease into the wheel bearings . Just put one of those rubber bullet nosed tips on your grease gun to keep it neat and clean .
I’ve seen that. I really need to look closer at a sealed bearing. I don’t think the grease is getting there though that port like people think it is. I wanna see a pulled apart sealed bearing.
 

indept

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I have not tried it but have seen a number of times written that we can pull the sensor out of our hub easily and pump grease into the wheel bearings . Just put one of those rubber bullet nosed tips on your grease gun to keep it neat and clean .
Read my response to that above in post #10, I seriously doubt that greases the bearing, it just gums up the tone ring.
 

Gary2

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I had my doubts too but would like to hear from some one who knows for sure one way or the other. I know one company that actually makes locking hubs
kits for the IFS 1500 that says thats is how you maintain their unit bearings. Theirs looks to be no different than ours other than the modded spline.

2013-2017-DODGE-RAM-1500-TRUCK-4X4-LOCKING-HUB-KIT-378
 

indept

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I read the links on this and a few things jump out. One comment was that the seal is just a dust seal which you have to think that a seal like that on a truck that goes offroad through deep water wouldn't last a thousand miles. And one of the pictures shows the nice clean teeth of the tone ring through the sensor hole. Now IF it was in the same enclosure as the roller bearings it would have old grease residue which it didn't. Ive worked on cars for years and Ive never seen a modern hub bearing that wasn't sealed. Older front bearings that were regreasable were packed with grease then set on the inner race and a seal was tapped on. That was the inner, the outer was placed in its race and the nut tightened and you tapped a metal cap on.

It is very unlikely they would design it the way that site claimed. The picture I posted was from Autozones site. Go to their store and ask for it and look into the sensor hole. If what they said was true you WILL see grease on the tone ring, which I doubt you will see.
 

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