Front lift level or Rear lower level?

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Tim Garceau

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I’ve done both, the lifted brodozer look and wide tires before it was cool and now I’m lowered. Would never lift a half ton pickup again because it is significantly more reliable and enjoyable to drive every day snow or shine.
 

Ohio5pt7

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I’ve done both, the lifted brodozer look and wide tires before it was cool and now I’m lowered. Would never lift a half ton pickup again because it is significantly more reliable and enjoyable to drive every day snow or shine.
What reliability issues did you have?

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Tim Garceau

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Ended up replacing all ball joints and front wheel bearings after 70K miles(40K front level spacer). I had a rough road work commute for a couple years and these components weren’t designed to have a 100lb wheel/tire setup. Again mainly placing blame on the tires if they weren’t rotated religiously, probably had a half dozen road force balancing and alignments to rid high speed vibration.

Nice now to be able to set the cruise at 100 in Mexico without the truck vibrating apart or putting me in the pickers from a bump.

If you’re driving nice paved roads the majority, components will last through normal warranty as long as you keep angles within spec lifted using a heavier wheel setup.
 

Ohio5pt7

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Ended up replacing all ball joints and front wheel bearings after 70K miles(40K front level spacer). I had a rough road work commute for a couple years and these components weren’t designed to have a 100lb wheel/tire setup. Again mainly placing blame on the tires if they weren’t rotated religiously, probably had a half dozen road force balancing and alignments to rid high speed vibration.

Nice now to be able to set the cruise at 100 in Mexico without the truck vibrating apart or putting me in the pickers from a bump.

If you’re driving nice paved roads the majority, components will last through normal warranty as long as you keep angles within spec lifted using a heavier wheel setup.
Makes sense. I agree a lot to do with the heavy tires. I'm still rolling around on stocks for now but did put rc ucas on when I put the 3" spacer in.

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JamesQ324

JamesQ324

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Toss in a set of airlift 1k and I dont see you having any issue. So rake isnt a bad thing if you dont want a lot of squat when it has a load. Or maybe a 2 and 2 that would leave you with a .5 inch rake and help with squat when loaded. I dont see 33s being a issue at all with either set up have you checked out customoffsets.com? Just about every set up possible is on there so you can see what will fit with and without trimming.

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I check customoffsets.com all the time and found a ram 1500 with 2" rear drop on 33x12.5 tires and 22x12 wheels(pic below). I really like the look of it dropped in the rear and I'm thinking I might go that route. 838291dce6834da7c1af152ec96d5b1e.jpg

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Ohio5pt7

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I check customoffsets.com all the time and found a ram 1500 with 2" rear drop on 33x12.5 tires and 22x12 wheels(pic below). I really like the look of it dropped in the rear and I'm thinking I might go that route. 838291dce6834da7c1af152ec96d5b1e.jpg

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Nothing wrong with that. The only issue you may have is finding a kit that will take out that whole 4.5" if you want it level.

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JamesQ324

JamesQ324

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Nothing wrong with that. The only issue you may have is finding a kit that will take out that whole 4.5" if you want it level.

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I may have to do the 2" front lift with the 2" rear drop. Gonna try a few different things and see what I like best.

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Tracy in IL

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if its a city truck, I would lower rear. If its gonna see some off-road work, you will ultimately want to put on larger tires, and doing the front level would be advantageous.
 

TomB 1269

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I do not know the older models, but I had been looking at lowering options for my 2019 classic. As it is a 4x4 lowering the front can cause a problem with CV angles. My understanding is these trucks can take a simple front leveling kit with no issues. As for lowering the rear, there has been some issue noted with the rear end travel and vibration / handling issue at high speed when the rear is dropped. Just remember when dropping the rear you have to account for the panhard bar and its "travel" arc. It sounds like it can be fairly well addressed with panhard drop bracket and an adjustable panhard bar, but it's not cheap. In the end the drop I wanted 2/3 and the possible issue caused me to decide to leave her right at stock. She handles okay, and hell with a Hemi I don't need to beat them in the corner cause I'll run them down on the straight.......:jester:

But she'd look good laying low and ready to go.....
 

blackbeautyhemi

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And yours being a lil older ram it has the better factory upper control arms. ‘13 and up they started putting chincy upper control arms on.
 
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JamesQ324

JamesQ324

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Decided to go with front lift level. Ordered some 2.5" strut spacers to see how it looks. Hopefully it'll bring it up enough to where it doesn't look like I'm trying to dig up the road. Lol. I'll post some pics when I get them installed.

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olyelr

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Heck yea!

2.5” is quite a bit. By measurement it will be close to level, but by eye it may look a bit nose high.
 
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JamesQ324

JamesQ324

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Got my strut spacers installed finally. Actually had a decent day and was able to get them on. Only issue I had was the sway bar links on both sides snapped when I was trying to get them off. So, guess what I'm doing this morning. Anyway, I was at a 3.5" rake now sitting at .25" rake. Damn near straight level. The spacers I used are Mammoth 2.5" strut spacers. I'm really diggin it, even more that I did it myself. Curious to know what everyone thinks. Thanks. 2b6afc45652ba540242137e0195bafe9.jpg

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Ohio5pt7

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Looks good

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olyelr

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Got my strut spacers installed finally. Actually had a decent day and was able to get them on. Only issue I had was the sway bar links on both sides snapped when I was trying to get them off. So, guess what I'm doing this morning. Anyway, I was at a 3.5" rake now sitting at .25" rake. Damn near straight level. The spacers I used are Mammoth 2.5" strut spacers. I'm really diggin it, even more that I did it myself. Curious to know what everyone thinks. Thanks. 2b6afc45652ba540242137e0195bafe9.jpg

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Looks good! Great job man!
 
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JamesQ324

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Found some OEM steps for $80. Truck is coming along pretty good. Got a lot more to do like center console, 8.4 touchscreen infotainment, Go Rhino sport bar, tinting the front windows, etc. Oh and thinking of a 5.7 upgrade from the 4.7 that's in it now. Curious if theres a supercharger or turbo I can get that would be cheaper than a whole engine swap. Any suggestions would be appreciated. d45aa9d8b8d4f411d4deeeba7fb4b7f3.jpg

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azcoyote

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Found some OEM steps for $80. Truck is coming along pretty good. Got a lot more to do like center console, 8.4 touchscreen infotainment, Go Rhino sport bar, tinting the front windows, etc. Oh and thinking of a 5.7 upgrade from the 4.7 that's in it now. Curious if theres a supercharger or turbo I can get that would be cheaper than a whole engine swap. Any suggestions would be appreciated. d45aa9d8b8d4f411d4deeeba7fb4b7f3.jpg

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You’d be better off selling the truck and buying a 5.7 equipped Ram generally speaking.
 
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I vote front lift. Pros looks better, more options as far as tire size, more options for wheel offset, if done with bils ppl say it rides better than stock, if done with spacers its stiffer but I still like mine after 30k. Cons:? I honestly cant think of one. I went with a moto fab 3" front 2" rear sits at 40 and 42.

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Take this advice and run with it. You'll be glad you did.
 
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