Front U joint replacement 2015 ram 4x4

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Hello,

I have play in the front U joint from my RAM 1500 4x4 sport.
I have looked at Rockauto and Summit but can not find the U joint?
Wich one do I need?

Thanks and greetings,

Erik.
 

NOV87

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I would get the part number from a dealer and cross-eference it to what on-line stores have. This is one I bought locally for the rear shaft for 2014 1500 4x4. Both axle and transfer case ends. Please, ignore the drill bit :)
 

Hemi395

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Are they even replaceable on the front driveshaft of the 1500s?
 

Phirebeard

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I'm not finding just the u joint either. You may have to replace the whole driveshaft.
 

DILLIGAF

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I replaced mine when I did my Gen 3 front diff swap.

I Just pull it and went to the parts store. They matched it up for me, but I dont remember the # unfortunately but it was a standard MOOG one.

My spare front driveshaft is under 4 feet of snow, So I cant get the# for you... lol...

Whatever you do dont waste your money replacing the whole thing... lol..
 

Victor Brill

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Jumping on this thread instead of making my own. Looking to replace my U-Joints on a 2011 Ram 1500. Curious what you ended up going with OP?

Looking on Rockauto and they have a lot of options. I see the Moog 331 that is listed above and will probably go with that. My question would be, do people prefer the Moog or Dana Spicer? Also, there are a ton of Heavy Duty options that aren't much more expsnsive but wondering if they would be worth it( I don't tow/haul/off-road that often.)

Any help would be appreciated.
 

Livinalittle

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I just replaced the whole front driveshaft. I ordered from Partsavatar in Canada for about $250.
 

PdPuNOme

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No one have the same problem?
I am. My original from my 15 ram has a sticky/hard spot in the joint, so got a donor from a 19 classic and has the same exact bad spot in the joint as the 15, go figure... this is very common for the front driveshaft from all the digging I have done. Only real info I can find is there are two versions one for the 6 speed trans at 33" total length and another for the 8 speed (dial shifter) at 33 3/4" length. Nothing on the u joint. Either way I would only go with Spicer brand. I will follow up should I come across the correct p# for the ujoint.
 

Chaga

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Anyone have luck finding a u joint? Or did you have to replace the whole shaft?
 

Hemi395

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Anyone have luck finding a u joint? Or did you have to replace the whole shaft?
I have a feeling it's a common u joint, it's just finding out what part number it is. I'm sure they wanted to make it so we would have to buy the whole drive shaft but the u joints have to come from somewhere
 

Chaga

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I have a feeling it's a common u joint, it's just finding out what part number it is. I'm sure they wanted to make it so we would have to buy the whole drive shaft but the u joints have to come from somewhere
Hopefully someone here has some info on what u joint.
 

Panarama

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Wow, no one here has ujoint part numbers memorized?

Back in the day, I knew the what those were- across the board of manufacturers. Which ones were stronger, etc...
It was cheaper to replace ujoints than diffs, trans, etc.
 

Mwilson

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Hello,

I have play in the front U joint from my RAM 1500 4x4 sport.
I have looked at Rockauto and Summit but can not find the U joint?
Wich one do I need?

Thanks and greetings,

Erik.
Hey, don’t know if you fixed the issue but I figured it out. The front u-joint is replaceable. However, the manufacturer designed it so the u joint is not easily replaced. The perfect fit for replacement is a Spicer 1310 u joint.

The clips are sunk into the yoke (dimpled), meaning that they cannot be pulled with a pair of pliers. I had to drill out the clips so I could get to the u joint. Once removed and replaced inside the yoke, I had to use a punch to push the metal on top of the u joint caps so they would not fall out.

Since they aren’t really meant to be replaced, my advice is to buy a front driveshaft from rock auto and save yourself the headache.
 
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DILLIGAF

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No one in their right mind would pay for a new drive shaft when all it takes its a 20$ U-joint.

If you think thats a headache dont do gear swaps... lol...
 
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