Fuel Pump Replacement (The Easy Way)

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SilverStreak88

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So, I searched around and couldn't find anything on 3rd gen fuel pump replacement so I figured I would do a DIY thread on how I did mine and hopefully it'll help someone else do their's if the need arises.

My fuel sender crapped out yesterday on the way to work, luckily I knew I had a full tank as I filled up the night before. I was jammin' out and heard the (unsettling) "cluster ding".... looked down and the fuel gauge was on E - actually it was sitting where it does with the power off, but I worried for a minute and then the CEL came on, P0463, but still running strong so I knew that my pump was still good.

Here's a little run down on how I changed my fuel pump/sender...

Tool's needed
Long Flat Head Screwdriver
Ball Peen Hammer
*About* 15" 2x4 (does not have to be exact, just what I had laying around)
Air Compressor & Hose (advised for cleaning of top of tank before pump removal)
Air Blow Gun
Impact Wrench (can be done with regular ratchet)
18mm Socket
12"+ Long Ratchet/Impact Extension
T20 Torx Screwdriver
Degreaser
Water Hose
Fuel Line Dis-connect Set
10mm Wrench or Socket

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Need to start by dis-connecting power at the battery with the 10mm wrench or socket.
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Need to remove the fuel filler neck, these 3 screws have to be removed.
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The plastic lanyard for the cap also need's to be removed.
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After all the screws and lanyard has been removed just push it in and down the inside of the bed.
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SilverStreak88

SilverStreak88

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You need to remove the tail lights pull the wiring so you have to remove the 2 screws holding them in.
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Disconnect the harness from the light's.
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Push the harness down through the hole where it comes up and let it hang down out of the way.
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SilverStreak88

SilverStreak88

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You need to remove the spare tire from the bed and remove the rear differential vent hose that's clipped to the bed.
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Now that everything is disconnected you can unbolt the bed. There are 6 bolts for a short bed and 8 for a long bed. The front bolts can be accessed with the extension and 18mm socket by going between the the frame and front leaf spring mount.
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The rear 2 bolts just come strait out of the holes in the bottom of the frame.
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When you do this step you need to remove ONLY the "driver's side" completely. When you do the passenger side only remove 3/4 of the bolt as these still need to have "at least" 2 full turns so they can hold up to the pivot.
 
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SilverStreak88

SilverStreak88

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Now get your 2x4 ready and grab the bed at the fender well and lift up pivoting it to the passenger side. Be careful not to lift it to high as the lower front of the bed will make contact with the back of the cab. Use your better judgment and cut the 2x4 down if needed to be able to place it between the top of the frame and bottom of the bed where it won't contact the cab. You can also place a microfiber towel between the cab and bed if desired.
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R.L.K.

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This is exactly what I did on my old truck ! LOL
 
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SilverStreak88

SilverStreak88

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Now you have access to the fuel pump/sender.
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At this point you use the degreaser and water hose to thoroughly clean the top of the tank from all debris to keep from getting in tank. Use the blow gun to blow all the water and loose debris off the tank and around the fuel pump. After everything has been cleaned you can remove the power connector and fuel line.
The power connector has a "red tab" that needs to be pull out so the clip release can be depressed. You need to use the fuel line dis-connector and modify it by cutting it down to about a 1/4" so it can be placed behind the fuel line connector and pushed in.
 

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SilverStreak88

SilverStreak88

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I didn't get pics of the pump retaining ring, but you will see open notches in the ring where you will use the flat head screw driver and ball peen hammer to hit the ring (counter clockwise) to remove it.


The pump will take a little finagling to get out, but make sure you have safety glasses for splashes. There will be a good amount of fuel in the bowl and need's to be poured back into the tank or in a container to dispose of properly.

The new pump will come with a new gasket, I had an issue with the new gasket being to thick and would not allow the retaining ring to seat properly. I reused my original as it was still good and the ring went right on. You can place the new pump in the tank and then get the seal over the top of the pump to where it seats.

Place the pump in the tank with the fuel line port facing out to the driver side. Replace the retaining and use the screwdriver and hammer to knock it back into the "lock" position.

Reconnect your fuel line and power, give them a little tug to make sure they are locked in and don't come loose.

You can now hook your battery back up.

Turn the key to the "ON" position to prime the pump. Repeat this 3 times to make sure everything is primed up and you can hear the pump cycle each time. You can start the vehicle and make sure the vehicle runs and the pump continues to run properly.

Now it's all done and you can reverse the process with bolting the bed down and making all the connections. I hope this help's some folks and saves them some time and headache's. Feel free to add and/or correct me on any of my steps.
 
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R.L.K.

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I've removed the bed on other trucks in the past when I had a helper , but last time I had no helper and I propped it up just like you did .
 
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SilverStreak88

SilverStreak88

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I've removed the bed on other trucks in the past when I had a helper , but last time I had no helper and I propped it up just like you did .

Yeah, all I had was my neighbor and he can't do much more than just supply the beer and good talk.:roflsquared:
 

justin13703

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Nice write up, the only other thing I've done before when I've done fuel pumps in the past is de pressurize the lines by pulling the fuel pump relay and running the truck until it shuts off that way when you disconnect the fuel line it doesn't spray gas everywhere.
 

aheeejd

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Seem's most logical to me, I had almost 3/4's of a tank in there with no way to get my truck up high enough to drop the tank.
What do you mean "high enough to drop tank", I ask because I eventually have to take my tank out to repair a hole in the frame, at least I'm thinking that I have t to do the repair right. I'll replace fuel pump when I do this as truck is an 03, even though there's nothing wrong with it.

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SilverStreak88

SilverStreak88

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You shouldn't have an issue - when you have 3/4's of a tank like I did that tank becomes beast and isn't easy to handle. I could have dropped it "as is", but I would have needed my drive up ramps. I have to replace the pump gain this weekend so I'm going to run the tank as low as I can and drop it this time. I did it this way only because of the fuel level.
 

427invader

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When I replaced the fuel pump in my wife's '01 Ram 2500 I used my atv lift to lower and raise the tank. As long as it is realatively centered the wide stance of the jack lift pads do good job of holding a gas tank. I also have a good beerneighbor who was with me as I am the good beerneighbor when he works on his vehicles. Beerneighbors are awesome! :favorites13:
 

buckeyexx

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22167ea242f70f65dcd93af1299295f5.jpg47df90323021f19dd6465221b192e822.jpg I was lucky enough to have access to a forklift.
 

chrisbh17

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Same deal on my 01 Frontier. Easier to cut off the bed bolts and get a couple guys to help take the bed off.

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xtr3me

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Kinda similar procedure here... I let my truck sit for several yeas and when I finally decided to replace my pump... the truck was parked in sand. I ended up pulling the rear bumper and removing bed bolts, run the longer bed bolts 1/2” back into rear holes and jacked truck bed until bed just made contact with the cab, dump bed effect...inserted two 4x4’s blocks 77A1A3A8-CCF4-42CF-ADED-358B2333C9CC.pngfor safety precaution..
 

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