Fuel Treatment ???

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IOWEGN

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I have a 2025 Ram with the SST SO. It says in the manual to use higher octane when towing so I use the high octane always. I have 10,000 miles on it now and am wondering if I should be putting in some injector cleaner in or is it not required because I'm running the "good fuel"

I'm sure there will be a lot of mixed thoughts on this.
 

Burla

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redline si-1 thread

So the industry theory is all you need is top tier, and somehow that is better then lower detergent fuels. The good news, it doesn't take a Harvard education to solve this. All you need is a cheap boroscopes, guys like hemi395 have posted pics on the board, and the ability to remove a spark plug. This is something a few of us explored back in the day, and of everything I have found the only proven treatment is redline si-1 and more importantly it has to be a concentrated dose. Now, in theory you can also use other fuel treatments, but it would have to be multiple bottles at once, no doubt concentration level matters. Go figure since that is the theory on top tier, they say more is better, but your question really is how much is best, and only you can answer that by sticking a scope down the hole.

There are other treatments that show promise such as sea foam, but that needs to go through vac lines to accomplish something si-1 does added to gas, plus doesn't do anything for injectors. So other considerations is the process of cleaning versus product. Sea foam is nothing special, no known good cleaning products, but because of process it can be as good as anything. Back in the day guys even used water, not in fuel, but right into combustion chamber for a soak.

If you use si-1 the best time to do this is a tank before an oil change. The info in the thread suggests it is best used only this time and not as a maintenance dose, with proof. How often? If you have a boroscopes easy to set an interval.
 

RamDiver

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I waited until the fuel level was about 1/4 tank, dumped in a full jug of Redline si-1, drove the truck until it was down to fumes, and added about 13 gallons of 91 octane.

Drove that down to near fumes again, and added another 13 gallons (91 octane). After driving until about 1/4 of the tank remained, I topped off (91) and took the truck in for an oil change/warranty inspection.

I bought my Warlock new in January '22 and mostly use 87 octane with corn on the side. Ethanol-free gas is nearly impossible to find after our supreme dictator outlawed the sale of any fuel without it.

For most of the first year of ownership, IIRC, I used most corn-free 91 octane, then the gas prices got crazy and I switched to 87.

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IOWEGN

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Perfect. Thanks for the responses. I will definitely try the redline si-1 product. The questions is when? I'm not having any issues at this point and was thinking additive just for maintenance. Question is why and do you need to do an oil change after using the product?
 

CanuckRam1313

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My usage plan is that I put in two full bottles of the RL SI-1 and fill with Shell 93.
Run it to empty and refill with Shell 93, and run that until empty.

Then I change the oil & filter and good to go.
Of course, also ensuring that my HEMI is driven spiritedly, too (as it always is, regardless..lol).

I do this every few months or so. I also run 91 at all times in between, too.

Excellent product, and it works as advertised!

Not easy to find here in Ontario, nor is it inexpensive either.
But worth the price of admission ;)

I purchase a case of 12 bottles at a time from Hoerr Racing Products on Amazon to save some $$ and to ensure I have stock of it for when I want to use it.

 
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Atcer2018

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+1 on the Hoerr Racing Products selling Si-1 on Amazon. For we state side residents the four pack is $50 or about $12.50 per bottle which is a great price considering Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner is about that same price at Wally World.
 

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Read the si-1 thread.


.
 

RamDiver

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Perfect. Thanks for the responses. I will definitely try the redline si-1 product. The questions is when? I'm not having any issues at this point and was thinking additive just for maintenance. Question is why and do you need to do an oil change after using the product?

I'm sure that some folks use it as a maintenance but let me ask.

If you want to clean the injectors and other parts of the fuel system, do you want it clean or is this just a feel good process?

I've only used it once in 2.5 years and my truck is running like a rocket afterwards.

I can't wait to disable that Sierra wireless card and explore more of the spirited driving experience.

LOL, Conrad. :cool:

As for the post treatment oil change, you will find that answer in the si-1 thread I linked above.

If you use the product like Conrad or I, you definitely want an oil change immediately after you've completed the treatment.

Like Burla said, read the thread. :cool:

.
 

leftchevybehind

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I have a 2025 Ram with the SST SO. It says in the manual to use higher octane when towing so I use the high octane always. I have 10,000 miles on it now and am wondering if I should be putting in some injector cleaner in or is it not required because I'm running the "good fuel"

I'm sure there will be a lot of mixed thoughts on this.
personally, I only run 93+. But I've used fuel system cleaners before and haven't had any issues. I stopped using them because all the fuels at the pump, already have additives in them. I have a '23 5.7 with 12k miles
 

Floyd1979

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On my 2009 Lonestar hemi I put 442,150 miles on original power train.
I used Lucas gas treatment .
Used Regular gas .

On my 2020 Lonestar, 172,000 hemi
I not used any treatment, regular gas

No problems , don’t know if it made a difference.
 

Tominator223

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You have no miles for needing treatment . Also one can use to much treatment . Spark plugs get a lil white coating from using to much treatment . Maybe around 50,000 & then every 50-75 after. I had 330,000 before I had to remove injectors & clean. And that was about 6-7 bottles of cleaner(s) later. Ime
 

Richg87

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I've been putting Techron in my classic cars twice a year. I now put in my 2019 Warlock as I want to keep forever. Also Shell or Sunoco gas when possible.
 

pscarbor

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redline si-1 thread

So the industry theory is all you need is top tier, and somehow that is better then lower detergent fuels. The good news, it doesn't take a Harvard education to solve this. All you need is a cheap boroscopes, guys like hemi395 have posted pics on the board, and the ability to remove a spark plug. This is something a few of us explored back in the day, and of everything I have found the only proven treatment is redline si-1 and more importantly it has to be a concentrated dose. Now, in theory you can also use other fuel treatments, but it would have to be multiple bottles at once, no doubt concentration level matters. Go figure since that is the theory on top tier, they say more is better, but your question really is how much is best, and only you can answer that by sticking a scope down the hole.

There are other treatments that show promise such as sea foam, but that needs to go through vac lines to accomplish something si-1 does added to gas, plus doesn't do anything for injectors. So other considerations is the process of cleaning versus product. Sea foam is nothing special, no known good cleaning products, but because of process it can be as good as anything. Back in the day guys even used water, not in fuel, but right into combustion chamber for a soak.

If you use si-1 the best time to do this is a tank before an oil change. The info in the thread suggests it is best used only this time and not as a maintenance dose, with proof. How often? If you have a boroscopes easy to set an interval.
I have a 2006 Ram 5.7 with about 250k miles on it. It was running OK but I thought the Redline sounded like a good thing to do. First mistake: If it ain't broke don't fix it! I knew better but did it anyway.

So I added the recommended amount of Redline and drove the truck down below 1/4 tank as specified by Redline, then changed the oil. The oil was dirty but it always is (Mobil 1 5w-20). in about 20 miles of driving I got a MDS fail cyl 4 error. After that I could clear the code then drive the truck in tow-haul which doesn't engage the MDS system. Of course I'd forget to do about half the time: I'd get the MDS code, stop, clear the code, then put it in tow-haul and drive on.

After a couple hundred miles I noticed I could drive it further with tow-haul off before it threw the code. Eventually it stopped throwing the MDS fail code.

After a couple hundred miles the truck again ran ok, just like before I added the Redline.

Lesson learned: The truck was running just fine; there was nothing to be gained by adding anything to the oil or fuel but I did it anyway. To the OP I'd say, if the truck's running ok don't use anything extra, you won't gain anything and the additives may have an adverse effect.
 

Burla

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I respect your opinion but it isnt the additives that have a negative effect, it is the cleaning done by the additives that can and do have a negative effect. So the option is to leave those ietms with sludge and varnish, which also can carry negative effects after time. Si-1 can stop an engine from ever caking piston rings, not adding can cost you a top end build. = damned if you do damned if you don't.
 

pscarbor

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I respect your opinion but it isnt the additives that have a negative effect, it is the cleaning done by the additives that can and do have a negative effect. So the option is to leave those ietms with sludge and varnish, which also can carry negative effects after time. Si-1 can stop an engine from ever caking piston rings, not adding can cost you a top end build. = damned if you do damned if you don't.
No of course it wasn't the Redline itself that caused the issue, it was the varnish/grime/whatever that it knocked loose that (I assume) caused the MDS solenoid to stick. Point is, the additives don't remove enough crud to do any good, just enough to mess stuff up.
 

RamDiver

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No of course it wasn't the Redline itself that caused the issue, it was the varnish/grime/whatever that it knocked loose that (I assume) caused the MDS solenoid to stick. Point is, the additives don't remove enough crud to do any good, just enough to mess stuff up.

And, maybe reducing/containing the buildup of varnish/grime/whatever, sooner than later may have prevented the MDS solenoid from jamming with crud. :cool:

If one were to read the SI-1 thread, I would say there is compelling evidence that when used appropriately, this product functions quite well.

This is similar to the attitude of never changing transmission fluid because the mileage is too high and a failure will ensue. The failure is a direct result of neglect to provide proper maintenance, not the fluid change.

Proper maintenance has been shown to extend the life of most automotive products, whatever one might care to believe. :cool:

.
 
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pscarbor

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And, maybe reducing/containing the buildup of varnish/grime/whatever, sooner than later may have prevented the MDS solenoid from jamming with crud. :cool:

If one were to read the SI-1 thread, I would say there is compelling evidence that when used appropriately, this product functions quite well.

This is similar to the attitude of never changing transmission fluid because the mileage is too high and a failure will ensue. The failure is a direct result of neglect to provide proper maintenance, not the fluid change.

Proper maintenance has been shown to extend the life of most automotive products, whatever one might care to believe. :cool:

.
Yeah I did the transmission oil change on a 2006 Dodge I bought used. Totally zapped the transmission and eliminated those pesky 4th and 5th gears. Fortunately, the replacement tranny is working just fine.

Just my opinion for what it's worth: There is no "compelling evidence" in this or any other online forum; there is just a lot of speculation and occasionally something someone did or didn't do that worked.
 
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