Gold standard for lowered + ride quality

[bonnyjliss]

Hey guys, ive searched a lot, but i figured id get the latest info.

i bought a 2016 ram 1500 reg cab short box, it has 24s on it now, it rides not horrible but not great, pulls after being aligned etc...

what is the gold standard 100% tried and true way to go for lowering and wheel / tires size.

i want to make sure it rides nice and does not rub.

the person when i bought the truck said that it was lowered but it looks like the stock spring and shocks to me, i think it just has huge wheels...

if you have the time, can you list out what you think is the best combo for what i want.

2" drop, 20" wheels is what i want.

im willing to spend some money, but not go as far as getting air ride, unless its reasonable price.

i am willing to do lowering spindles / a arms whatever

thanks!

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

A side shot, full on, would give a better indication, if it was lowered.

Based on your photo, it appears the rear wheels might be pushed forward a bit which usually indicates a bell tech 2/4 kit.

You should be able to look at the rear springs and see if they are a different color.

BT is usually silver or Grey. They will have a number on them somewhere.

Ground force is usually blue.

Eibach is usually red.

Black springs are normally stock.

If you already have a BT 2/4 then, check if you have relocation brackets. Given the photo I can't see your control arms which generally means they are not flat to the ground but pointing up in the back at an angle.

Overall if you already have a lowering kit, I'd start with what you have. But if you do not, then you can choose your options.

Lots of people on here that can help.

1st photo ground force 2/3 22s
2nd photo bell tech 2/4, no relocation brackets 22s
3rd photo belltech 2/4, relocation brackets and 20s.

 

[bonnyjliss]

Nice man, thank you I'll look at it now and take a few pics

 

[bonnyjliss]

Well I guess this solves the mystery lol

 

[bonnyjliss]

 

[bonnyjliss]

So basically it's down to shocks and tire/wheel size

How are the 20s for stability, these 24s are wild it feels like I'm driving a donk car and it sways all around it's actually dangerous over 80mph with it floored. It felt not good

 

[abouttobeglue]

Best ride I've had after multiple setups, factory front shocks, bell tech nitro 2s, but they didn't last long. Kyb excel g road nice, too soft on bumpy roads. Belltech streets are what I have now, keep 10-15 psi in the airlift bags and it's pretty good. Kyb gas adjust handles good, but too rough, doetsch nitro slammers way too stiff, kyb monomax had the least amount of bottoming out

 

[abouttobeglue]

My buddy had 26s on his 3/5 lowered crew cab f150, looked great, road like ass. Kept telling him to try his stick wheels which were 20s for road trips. He did when he drove it a couple hundred miles to trade it in, said it road like factory then

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

The reason it sways is the rear control arm angle. Not the wheels.

Look at the 3rd photo I posted, you can see the control arm, basically parallel to the ground.

That is what you don't have with a BT 2/4.

Relocation brackets are necessary to adjust this condition.

Once installed then the majority of your sway issues should disappear and then you can focus on ride quality.

I personally like the 22 wheels for handling however the 20s ride better due to more tire sidewall.

It's all about choice.

For shocks, I'd look into qa1s that are adjustable they are about $150 per shock and will allow you to dial in the ride exactly how you want.

For wheels, I'd look at staying with an 18 to 20 positive offset, similar to stock which is 19 and in what ever Brand you prefer.

For tires, with the bt 2/4 you can probably get away with up to a 305 in a 20 or a 285 in a 22.

If you go lower in the front you will need to address tire size, due to rubbing

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

In addition, you should do something about bump stops. Yours are missing in the rear. I cannot tell in the front

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Here is the most common relocation brackets

IHC Suspension | Shop

ihcsuspension.com

 

[bonnyjliss]

What about something no cut?

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Never used this company. Know nothing about them

09 - 18 Ram 1500 4 Link Rear Bracket Relocation Kit (No-Cut) for 4" Drop

Trekline Motorsports, Inc. provides Lift Kits, Lowering Kits and Leveling Kits for a wide range of Chevrolet, Dodge, Toyota, Nissan and Ford Trucks and SUVs.

treklinemotorsports.com

I had no cuts and removed them as they moved under hard Acceleration

 

[bonnyjliss]

Thank you, I will have to try those. I don't want to take it that far apart if I don't have to

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Once you get them in place you should consider a tack weld for the brackets. Easy to remove in the future, will help with movement.

 

[bonnyjliss]

ok i could probably do that.

it has a pull to the right, i took it in and they aligned it, but it still pulls to the right. they switch tires from front to back and it still pulls to the right but not quite as bad.

they think its just bad tires, ive had problems like this before with tires. ive never had 24s that were used track straight and/or run smooth.

are 24s a no go for going fast? can it be done with 24s and have a decent ride and track straight

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

24s are just bigger. I know a few people with them, they all wanted them, they got them, about 90% hate them but have 2or 3k invested so they just complain.

20s are more common and ride nicer. 22s are stiff but still have enough sidewall to ride decent.

If you want to go fast, you need to look at tire ratings then decide on a size.

My RT is lowered (4/6) tuned, supercharged and fairly fast. Not as fast as others, but fast enough I purchased V rated tires. Toyo proxies 114V in 285 45 22 for rear, 110V in 285 40 22 for the front . They wear fast, balance well but 40k is about max miles.

You should decide what you want. Most people can get by with a different rated tire.

Tire Speed Rating and Why It Matters - Les Schwab

The speed rating, also called the performance rating, indicates the max speed your tires can safely maintain over time. View our speed rating chart and what speed rating your car requires.

www.lesschwab.com

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

In addition, and as a warning, you should check your driveshaft. If you have the OEM 2 piece driveshaft that has the accordion coupler in the middle. They tend to come out of the truck at high speed. They turn into something that looks like a jump rope instead of being straight. When they let go, it can potentially take out transmission tail shaft, gas tank, essentially anything under the truck.

Driveshafts

Driveshafts

www.moes-performance.com

 

[bonnyjliss]

Well, after I get bored with it I plan to put a torqstorm supercharger on it

I guess I'm going to do this order;

Relocation bracket it needs it bad
See how it rides/drives

If it's my tires making it pull to the right, I really should get wheels and tires, I like 22s better than 20s

Shocks qa1 are spendy, maybe or maybe bilstein or something that is a good non-adjustable

Hopefully this will make it ride really nice. Honestly it really isn't that bad if the swaying was taken away, it's a little harsh over sharp bumps but not bad really it just seems like the shocks are partially compressed because it's lowered

 

[bonnyjliss]

I have proxy s 3s I believe they are called on my turbo Dakota r/t and they are great