Header bolts

[RipperMagoo]

Anyone here extracted broken header bolts? If so would you be able to lemme know or what you recommend for tools in order to take them out? Thanks

 

[big daddys house]

Anyone here extracted broken header bolts? If so would you be able lemme know or what you recommend in order to take them out? Thanks

I can tell you from experience do not use anything Harbor Freight related.
You will need a high-quality set. American made hardened steel!
Your best bet is probably Lowe's or Home Depot.
I ended up fixing my exhaust leak with BBK shorty headers and Stage 8 Bolts.
Good luck brother.
Keep modding!

Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk

 

[RipperMagoo]

Thanks! I definitely will be buying a good quality set.
You think that'll be all I need for special tools? Or would a welder be in need? Thanks!

 

[big daddys house]

Thanks! I definitely will be buying a good quality set.
You think that'll be all I need for special tools? Or would a welder be in need? Thanks!

Hey brother, no welder is needed. it's a straight bolt on.
However stage 8 bolt are only going to work on an aftermarket header system.
If you want to keep the stock system, then you should just stick with Mopar.

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[RipperMagoo]

Excellent. I just watched a video on those headers and they seem really nice and will definitely get those.
I'm getting sick of the noise from the exhaust leak so I won't be using Mopar!
But to get the broken bolts out, would a welder be needed?

 

[big daddys house]

Excellent. I just watched a video on those headers and they seem really nice and will definitely get those.
I'm getting sick of the noise from the exhaust leak so I won't be using Mopar!
But to get the broken bolts out, would a welder be needed?

No, just a bolt extractor. Don't get a cheap one. It will probably break off inside there and make it even harder for you to get out. AKA Harbor Freight.
I will go with any American-made hardened steel.... Cobalt - Dewalt - Craftsmen - Snap on... something like that.

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[tron67j]

Maybe checkout the Promaxx Alan 200. I have not used it but know of it. It is designed for the 5.7 Hemi engine. Good luck

 

[Lyle Longboat]

Easiest way is too simply throw on a nut over he broke stud and work a bead out via your welder, then simply use your socket and back the bolt out slowly. It may break, but just keep welding that nut in there until it backs out. That’s another way with the welder you referring too. The other way is to drill that sucker out and you pretty much only have one chance! Don’t get that extractor sideways or to far in or you be wishing you had kept that tick!

 

[_TopGear]

Easiest way is too simply throw on a nut over he broke stud and work a bead out via your welder, then simply use your socket and back the bolt out slowly. It may break, but just keep welding that nut in there until it backs out. That’s another way with the welder you referring too. The other way is to drill that sucker out and you pretty much only have one chance! Don’t get that extractor sideways or to far in or you be wishing you had kept that tick!

The only question is....do you have access to a welder or know someone that will do it? and if not? how will you find someone? I have a little tick and I'm afraid to even look in there and try it.

 

[Pull Ya]

This thread might be of some help to you. I know it's long but well worth the read IMHO. It might also save you some money regarding buying or not buying headers to fix your problem.
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/exhaust-manifolds-warped.155217/
Jay

 

[RipperMagoo]

Thanks for the input boys. I'm thinking a welder is a safer bet, and would be a great way to loosen the bolt when heated by welding on a nut.

 

[Flatblack79]

I got lucky on mine. Head of the bolt broke off so i was able to use a stud extractor tool once i got the manifold off.

I had some nuts and welder on stand by but didnt need them (luckily).

 

[indept]

Thanks for the input boys. I'm thinking a welder is a safer bet, and would be a great way to loosen the bolt when heated by welding on a nut.

It's probably your best bet. From what I've seen online, the bolts tend to break slightly recessed into the head so your chance of drilling dead center on the broken bolt isn't very good.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

When I replaced mine, I drilled the bolts out. I used a right angle drill and a left-handed drill bit. Right angle drill was purchased on eBay as the only place I could find one and the left-handed drill bit was bought at a local hardware store.
I went slow and was able to drill the hole in the center of the bolt and when the left handed bit caught I was able to back the bolt out without breaking the bit.

It took me 8 hours to replace both manifolds over the course of 2 days. I went slow took my time and knew that if I couldn't get the bolts out I was going to have to weld. The bolts are not in there that deep nor are they in there that tight so you are able to drill them if needed. I replace my manifolds at the same time with new manifolds didn't go with headers and my tick has not come back and I'm about 20, 000 miles since replacement

 

[RipperMagoo]

When I replaced mine, I drilled the bolts out. I used a right angle drill and a left-handed drill bit. Right angle drill was purchased on eBay as the only place I could find one and the left-handed drill bit was bought at a local hardware store.
I went slow and was able to drill the hole in the center of the bolt and when the left handed bit caught I was able to back the bolt out without breaking the bit.

It took me 8 hours to replace both manifolds over the course of 2 days. I went slow took my time and knew that if I couldn't get the bolts out I was going to have to weld. The bolts are not in there that deep nor are they in there that tight so you are able to drill them if needed. I replace my manifolds at the same time with new manifolds didn't go with headers and my tick has not come back and I'm about 20, 000 miles since replacement

Do you go with the factory bolts?

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Do you go with the factory bolts?

Yes, back 100% factory