Help!! - 2017 2500 4WD 34MM axle nut and not 1-11/16th?

[Racing Woody]

I have a 2017 2500 6.4L Gas 4x4 offroad Laramie with 20" wheels. Everything told me that my hub assembly is part number 515162 for front left or right 8 lug with ABS. I researched and watched the videos and torque specs, yada, yada, yada. I went and bought a 1-11/16 socket because I did not have that size in my tool box. Part came in, and planned on getting truck lifted, wheel off, PB blast all my parts in prep for working on replacing the hub in the AM.

Wheels off and my first question mark was thrown when there was no cotter pin in the 1-11/16th castle nut that I was expecting to see when the wheel came off. Second ? when I realized it was not a castle nut but a normal nut, and third ? when I know from experience that is no where near 1-11/16 nut size it is much smaller. I have smaller and bigger sockets but nothing that fit, I dug through the internet trying to find an alternative socket size for my truck and the only thing I could find is 34mm? No problem, I ran to Lowes (the only store open after 9p that may have a 34mm, Nope, they have 32mm. Okay fine, I'll wait until 7:30a and grab a 34mm at Autozone.

Then fear hit me, is the hub the same part number with just a smaller nut or do I have a completely different hub part number that has a 34mm nut size?

Any help would be greatly appreciated this evening.

Thanks,

 

[pacofortacos]

Might be a 1 5/16 or aka. 34 mm socket.

I see 2 different wheel hub part numbers
68185437AD
and
2AMVH437AA
No clue as to what is what, the online parts doesn't specify if 2WD, 4WD or ??

 

[Racing Woody]

Thx. The interchange is all the same between the 2wd and 4wd's as far as my searches. The difference in those 2 part numbers I believe is that the top p# is the full hub assembly with the abs sensors and studs and the 2nd P# is the hib and bearing only, no suds or wire harness.

But very hard to tell and or decipher. I am just going to grab a 35mm tomorrow and take the nut off. Count my splines and make sure they match hub count wise with the new hub, take a quick measurement and go for the swap as long as the measurements match up.

 

[crazy jerry]

fyi nearly every fastener on these trucks or probly any modern vehicle is metric. ya sometimes a us socket crosses over exactly.
if your putting on those cheap junk hubs from the parts store i wouldnt even bother. the factory is probly timken. skf probly makes a decent one

 

[Racing Woody]

All good. 33mm socket is the actual size that fit. 1-5/16 was a bit tighter fit and 34mm was a too big.

Hub is installed, however my ABS & traction control lights are still on???????????? Go figure. Service guy said may need to go through a good amount of on/off cycles before it understands it is working properly. Both of my OBDII readers cannot clear the codes.

Going to be upset if it was mis-diagnosed at the dealer.

 

[Joshua Collins]

What code are you throwing?

 

[18CrewDually]

Alot of times aftermarket axles come with new nuts that are a different size than OEM. Your axle shaft may have been replaced in the past.
For the ABS light, if it was a code for that speed sensor and you changed it, once the truck moves over about 15 mph it should go out when the module recognized the sensor. You may have changed the wrong one.
Like the previous post asked, what is the code stored?

 

[Racing Woody]

So, my OBDII readers are not pulling actual codes that I can clear. I believe my readers are engine only style readers.

The codes I meant were the dash notifications (2 lights, ABS and traction) and the screen message to service electronic braking system and ABS.

The dealer is the one that diagnosed the hub and sensor that was going bad and which side. So I replaced the one they told me to. PAX side front.

 

[2003F350]

So, my OBDII readers are not pulling actual codes that I can clear. I believe my readers are engine only style readers.

The codes I meant were the dash notifications (2 lights, ABS and traction) and the screen message to service electronic braking system and ABS.

The dealer is the one that diagnosed the hub and sensor that was going bad and which side. So I replaced the one they told me to. PAX side front.

So I ran into this YEARS ago on an old '98 Grand Prix - intermittent, then constant ABS light. I didn't have a code reader for the ABS, and auto parts stores wouldn't unbox one to read the codes, so I had a dealer check it out. They diagnosed it as a bad wheel speed sensor, told me what one.

Replaced it, but during the process I noticed that the wires leading to the pigtail had been damaged. A quick splice and wrapped up in shrink wrap and the problem went away.

Eventually I had to do the other side like that as well.

Basically what I'm saying is if you've still got an ABS code it might be worth it to look at the wiring as well.

 

[Racing Woody]

Well today i stopped into the dealer to have the codes run and basically it is not reading the sensor at all now not just intermittent. The dealer happened to have a hub and sensor in parts and plugged it in and spun and still no dice on reading. Now they thing it is either wiring on the body side or possibly the modules. Crappy thing is, is that my new truck is scheduled in to dealer in about 3 weeks. I was swapping hubs to get the lights off before trade in, but not sinking any more money into this truck.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[18CrewDually]

Oh it's going to be your trade ? Stop wasting your time and money.

 

[62Blazer]

Just to clarify for other people that may be researching this issue in the future......any trouble codes set do NOT specifically say the sensor itself is bad. The codes state that there is a out of range signal, intermittent signal, or completely missing signal coming from that sensor circuit. There is always a good chance that there is nothing wrong with the sensor but rather the wiring or connectors are damaged, or there is actually nothing wrong with the sensor and wiring but it is stating something is going wrong. A perfect example is an O2 sensor related code where the engine is actually running bad and the O2 sensor reading is out of range and telling you the engine is running bad.
In most cases there is no way for an ECM to know the difference between the actual sensor going bad and just cutting the wires or disconnecting it, or as mentioned above actually sensing something else going bad. From my experience, both working on personal vehicles and spending 12 years at an automotive proving grounds doing testing, the actual sensor going bad is the issue less than half of the time. The other times it is bad wiring, loose connectors, bad ECM signals, or something actually causing the signal to read bad. I've seen people replace an O2 sensor 3-4 times before finding the wiring harness was melted against the exhaust.

 

[18CrewDually]

Basic diagnostics.
For example: You turn on your vacuum in the home and it doesn't come on. Do you run out and buy a new one,
or do you check that it is plugged in first?
A basic check should always be first and maybe is taken for granted everyone knows that. Next would be to Ohm out the sensor at the plug then at the PCM to try to find the break. You can also monitor the wheel speed inputs with a scanner while spinning the wheel and perform a "wiggle test" which consists of just that, wiggle wires and plugs to see if it starts receiving a signal to find the break.

 

[Racing Woody]

Thank you, and yes dealer basically said they could start searching wiring, but as stated above it is a trade in, so I am going to stop throwing money at it. Also the reason I did the hub myself. Part was $125.00 Amazon part. Yes I know, but knowing it is getting traded in I just wanted the dash lights off for trade in. When I ordered my new truck, they quoted me $34K for my 2017 6.4L with 145K mile Laramie, but it had no lights on at the time. Just trying to get the most for my trade in and worried dash lights will drop the $34K value down a bit. I may play with wiring harness a few days before I pick up my new truck. Due in to dealer around July 6th.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[2003F350]

Thank you, and yes dealer basically said they could start searching wiring, but as stated above it is a trade in, so I am going to stop throwing money at it. Also the reason I did the hub myself. Part was $125.00 Amazon part. Yes I know, but knowing it is getting traded in I just wanted the dash lights off for trade in. When I ordered my new truck, they quoted me $34K for my 2017 6.4L with 145K mile Laramie, but it had no lights on at the time. Just trying to get the most for my trade in and worried dash lights will drop the $34K value down a bit. I may play with wiring harness a few days before I pick up my new truck. Due in to dealer around July 6th.

Thanks for all the help.

There's a good chance that if you're open and honest about the light, and even tell them which sensor the computer isn't getting a reading from, they'll still give you a decent deal - you've already done some of the diagnostic work for them so they've got a good place to start.

When I got my PW, I traded in a rusted-out but GREAT running '03 F350 with a 6.0 Powerstroke, AND a great body but crappy running '04 F350 dually with a 6.0 Powerstroke (we supposedly weren't going to be camping anymore).

They gave me 6k for the rusted out one, threw fender flares over the rusted out wheel wells and sold it.

They gave me 13k for the one that didn't run right, because I was open and honest about it - it had started running rough and burning fuel, it gave me a FICM code so I replaced that, then it threw two injector codes and I was tired of working on it. I don't know what they sold it for but I know they fixed it pretty quick.

In your case, with it just being a wheel sensor that isn't getting a proper reading, they likely won't knock much if anything off. The tech will unplug the sensor and make sure it's reading, then check wiring (which is likely where he'll find the problem since you already replaced the hub). They will likely have less than an hour into diagnosing it and maybe a couple hours into fixing it.

 

[Racing Woody]

Thanks

 

[18CrewDually]

New car dealers around here won't even look at the trade. It goes straight to auction, usually to be bought by a used car lot.