Help Electrical Problems

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BumpInTheNightEdi

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Ok. I’ve been thru hell and high water over this issue and really hoping I can A. fix it myself B. That it’s not too costly

The reason I want to fix it myself is because I know dealer will tell me it’s my fault and won’t cover it. I installed a new battery already but it still didn’t start. It’s at the shop (not dealer) and they are *********.

I was riding along after working overnight, dying to get home. I have a few amps I installed myself And 2 rear xs power batts to handle it, and never saw voltage drop.

As i was driving, i had to slam on the brakes, narrowly avoiding collision. Subs stopped working. Unbeknownst to me the amp actually came off the back wall. And obviously it arced or something, the ground must have come out. Because moments later the truck died on the highway. In a terrible spot blocking the on ramp to a main highway. So I dove in the back and started cutting wires off flush because i didn’t know exactly what was wrong but i knew it had to do with the stereo.

All the lights in the dash were flickering on and off. I eventually got them to stop by cutting the wires (all added by me, not factory wires.)

I tried getting a jump, but it didn’t work, maybe not enough time i thought.

AAA tried jumping also, but again not enough time was given

So it sat at the shop awhile

i got a new agm battery thinking that was the problem but still no start, nothing at all

I’m guessing it’s a relay of some sort but the shop is just telling me it needs to go to the dealer and i need to uninstall the stereo.

i dont want to do all that if it’s just a relay or multiple relays. Even if it’s a dead alternator, i would rather install an upgraded alternator. Why put another oem alt if it’s going to cause me the same problem when the stereo goes back in?

Without seeing it, my mechanic buddy thinks it’s the “‘main” power relay?

i believe him but thru my own reading i read it may be the alt relay. I read that’s what would blow if you put the battery cables on backwards, not that i did, but grounding out or arcing may have caused similar circumstances

Hoping it’s not the ecu or pcm or anything expensive that requires the dealer to cover under warranty. It’s a 2020 so it is covered, but i don’t want to have to do all the work to remove then reinstall. Especially if it is just a relay.

Sorry this is so long winded but does anybody have any ideas? And/or diagrams for the location of the relays or where the main one lies? Friend is a BMW mechanic and says their main relay is on the batt cable i think. I’m doubting ours is in the same place. Is there anyway to test and or figure out which relay it could be without removing them, especially if their in hard to reach locations.

Any insight into how to tell if a relay is blown? Never replaced a relay, fuses are easy to tell viewing thru the little window at the metal to ensure continuity


I wanted to list all possibilities, and provide all the details of exactly what happened and Whats been done since.

Plz help, trucks been gone for a week, I’m missing work, and the shop it’s at has made zero progress.

I’m on my own, and the truck is 75 mi away, so I’d like to show up there with any relays possible, so that i can attempt fixing it myself before having to uninstall stereo cables and have it towed to a dealer! Plz help!

2020 Ram 1500 big horn night edition (name checks out) 20k mi

any ?’s let me know
 
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BumpInTheNightEdi

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Bump to ensure this posted correctly as it’s my first post. Been lurking awhile, and forgot my old login bcuz i never actually use it, i just read. So I’m not actually new from today. Just sayin’ TIA
 

Brandon-w

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I doubt it's alternator fuses as the truck should run a decent time on just battery not die. Does it crank over or not try at all? Any dash lights with key on? If you have lights it's probly not a battery fuse. There are two fuses right on the battery connector they're in a 1/4x1/2 clear box side by side. Can't miss them. You should see a physical connection between the two.

Do you own a multi meter???

It could be a tipm/relay box. Where did you take power from and where did you take your rem amp wire from? Did the amp short out on anything or did it just rip out and quit? Could be many variables here.

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BumpInTheNightEdi

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I do have a DMM. Funny that’s kinda what my friend said, some “main fuse” on the hot lead for the batt cable. I assumed BMW would be different from Ram. But you’re saying the same thing. So the dash literally just says “press brake and push start” or whatever it says when the fob is close. But if i press start nothing happens at all. No crank, no noise at all. Nothing at all happens.
I am going to the truck tomorrow. I’ve been reading about people having trouble with the fuses. Which is funny bcuz my overhead dome light doesn’t work, and i thought i replaced the right fuse but it didn’t work. So i prob got the wrong fuses. Are the fuses for our trucks not available at your typical auto store? Autozone, Advanced, Napa? I think i got the ones i used at Autozone. Is there a better place? Is the dealer the only place to get them? Any clarification on this would be much appreciated. TIA!
 
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BumpInTheNightEdi

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Also mine is push to start so there’s no key on per se. Just having the fob close is necessary.
 
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BumpInTheNightEdi

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So i took power from the battery itself on the hot side. Ran it thru the firewall to the back, with a fuse, but it wasn’t blown. The ground was just a chassis ground thru a distro block. The ground is what came out and touched the chassis i guess. I’m not even exactly sure what it touched. No fuses were blown that i had installed. But i didn’t fuse the ground. Which is apparently not good. But i would think the amp would be affected not the whole truck. Idk I’m so lost. Anyone who can help please do. What fuses/relays do i need and where can i get them other than the dealer? Or is that the only place
 

crash68

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So i took power from the battery itself on the hot side. Ran it thru the firewall to the back, with a fuse, but it wasn’t blown. The ground was just a chassis ground thru a distro block. The ground is what came out and touched the chassis i guess. I’m not even exactly sure what it touched. No fuses were blown that i had installed. But i didn’t fuse the ground. Which is apparently not good. But i would think the amp would be affected not the whole truck. Idk I’m so lost. Anyone who can help please do. What fuses/relays do i need and where can i get them other than the dealer? Or is that the only place

You don't need or want to fuse ground wires. You should be able to find any of the fuses in the fuse block at the auto part stores, the main fuses off the battery may have to be bought from a dealer.
Check around for any wiring harnesses that may have come unplugged/loose.
 
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BumpInTheNightEdi

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I dont think it’s loose wiring harnesses because everything was fine until the ground from the amp came loose. But you are confirming there are “main fuses” off the battery? I think that’s what it is. Any idea what size those are for 2020 1500?
 

Brandon-w

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Bump help plz!! Anybody?!
Sorry my app updates very slowly. Have you tried tip startingthe truck? Use the tip of your key on the start button and see if it starts!



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BumpInTheNightEdi

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I have a push to start? Are you being serious or facetious i can’t tell
 

crash68

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I have a push to start? Are you being serious or facetious i can’t tell
he's being serious, use the fob to push the start button when attempting to start the truck. It's what you do if the battery in the fob is dead or there's a problem with the fob RF hub.
 

Brandon-w

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These are your main fuses.
Google is your friend for this kind of info.
You never need to fuse ground side just hot side. d53e5fdf022388e56169f9ea3e1b6a00.jpg

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BumpInTheNightEdi

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I will try that tomorrow. But that wouldn’t cause the truck to go dead while driving on the highway would it?
 

Brandon-w

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I have a push to start? Are you being serious or facetious i can’t tell
Trust me I'm very good with the electronics on these trucks I have no reasons to pull your leg at all on this stuff. Just trulying to find the simplest ways to diagnose and get you going.

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BumpInTheNightEdi

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I know that normally you don’t fuse ground side, but recently i read about someone saying you should because “insert reason why”. I forget because everything was fine at the time. But I’m glad to hear it’s ok i didn’t have it done.

If the ground wire came loose from amp and arc’d after touching the frame, could that have blown the main fuse? That’s what my buddy thinks.

I have been googling the hell out of this issue and can’t find anything about “main fuse on battery” maybe I’m not using the correct terminology? I’m not sure but i can’t seem to find it anywhere. Only diagrams of the fuse panel
 

Brandon-w

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Yeah there's not a whole bunch of info on the systems it's just the basics. Seems odd that a ground would cause this. But if there is any possibility it grounded out the positive it makes sense why it'd surge and quit. Could have fried any number of modules. Do you have a code reader? Could see if you have a lost communication code with (x) module It won't set off an engine light but it will be an active code. If you can't read codes because you don't have obd power see if your fuse is good. If it is you need to use your dvom and check from your fuse side of the battery to ground see if it has power.

Basically ground ur ground wire, hook the power to your battery terminal, 12v?? Then test power at the other side of the fuse, 12v? If you have 12v there pop the cover off your fuse box and check the main line from the battery to the box.
We will go from there once you determine that.

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BumpInTheNightEdi

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There’s no power really anywhere. For some reason though, the interior light in the rear will come on, but keeps blinking on and off, so i pulled the negative terminal so the batt wouldn’t die.

Does the flickering symptom tell you anything? Also, because i want to show up prepared with everything possible. Are the fuses on the battery only available from the dealer? If not what size/type are they?

I read about others having trouble replacing the fuses in these trucks. Something about the tabs? Someone said they bought micro fuses that fit but didn’t work. Are micro2 fuses the same size but slightly different? Like they fit in the slot but don’t work?

Same ? About the relays. Are those also only available from the dealer? I’m trying to avoid the dealer so i don’t have to uninstall the radio if at all possible
 

Brandon-w

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Are there any security lights flashing on your dash?

The fuses are odd I don't remember off hand what type they are though. But any parts store should be able to look that up. Test your battery fuses before replacing. I wonder... Take your battery out and have it tested. It oddly could be a bad cell in the battery. That would explain why it's not boost able and doesnt seem to hold charge. Your interior lights are powered by the body control module if I remember correctly. That means your bcm does have some power going to it. But not enough to do anything. First thing I was taught make sure you have a good power source, work out from there. Take the batt out and have it tested at ur auto store. I've seen batteries have 13 volts of power and have 10 actual amps of capacity.

Keep us updated.[emoji106] If I don't reply within an hr message me I don't get notifications often.

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