Help Electrical Problems

[BumpInTheNightEdi]

I got a new batt and it still was no different. Do you think i could have fried a wire?

 

[BumpInTheNightEdi]

Thx for all your help so far. You’ve been super knowledgeable and helpful. It’s at a shop, albeit not a Ram specialist and they can’t figure it out. They did a load test AFTER i replaced the batt and said it’s all good! No kidding huh? Lmao

 

[Brandon-w]

Could. Be something as simple as a fried ground or somehow a fried tipm. Battery is good use ur dvom and see if you have power at all the fuses off the battery all The way out to your fuse box main. I mean even go under the truck and see if your starter has power to the solenoid.

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[BumpInTheNightEdi]

They’re kinda being jerks about me “working” on the truck in their yard. I was hoping it was a simple fix. It is under warranty. But that means i need to do a lot of work to bring it back to stock. The back seats aren’t even in it currently. And it’s a stare away. If it is a fried wire or i fried a module, I’ll probably have to go the warranty route. I’m really hoping it’s just a fuse/relay.

So I’m going to hope it’s the “main” fuse off the battery, which i can’t find online anywhere as far as size or amp rating, hopefully parts store will have this info for a 2020.

God I’m reading a tipm replacement can cost thousands. Hope it’s not that bad

 

[BumpInTheNightEdi]

*a State away

 

[Brandon-w]

Yeah it's nit cheap. But let's try simple first. Get a trailer and drag her home? Find a different shop. Most small. Shops have no idea on this stuff

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[BumpInTheNightEdi]

Ok can you confirm this as the simple route.

-check main fuse on batt
-check all fuses with dvom & solenoid
-check batt/ground cables off battery

and then basically if it’s not any of that i should go to dealer hopeful for warranty work?

 

[Brandon-w]

Yeah basically. And put it back together as best u can and take to dealer and hope for the best.

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[LouM]

OK these trucks have numerous fuses there is a thread in another forum with an excellent write up on the 5th gen fuses,
if you search for 5th generation power distribution it should come up if this link doesn't work.
https://**************/community/th...ker-diagrams-documentation.28989/#post-415825

Thread title;
New 5th-Gen 1500 Fuse / Relay / Circuit Breaker Diagrams & Documentation

 

[DaveSharp]

https://ln.sync.com/dl/8279e10e0/wpp99a75-w75qtr3h-hzeff67w-c4tdwxxn

Plug a scan tool in and pull the codes and see what modules are down for starters. I'm going to upload the starting circuit, starting troubleshooting tree and theory of operation shortly. You should be able to see in a short time where the problem lies. Three files in that link they are all pdf's. In order to view them you may have to zoom in on the schematics with Cntl and Plus key.

By the look of the schematic you may have caused the bus to go down on the body module.

The LEDs in the IGNM and Start/Stop Button provide visual indication of the ignition system and button use to aid the driver. The Logic for LED control is implemented in the RF HUB. The Start/Stop Button contain four LEDs: OFF Indication ACC Indication (Accessory) ON Indication (On or Run) Ignition Switch Indicator (button backlight) The LEDs indicate the vehicle ignition position and are driven by the CAN bus signals related to the ignition position. The Center LED (Ignition Switch Indicator) will blink if there is a related concern. The RF HUB will log a DTC indicating an incorrect Ignition status value is present; in this state the ignition status is unknown. This will continue until the correct signal is received by the RF Hub. EVIC Operation The Keyless Go feature requires the vehicle to be equipped with an EVIC display for prompts and status information. The display messages are: Service Keyless System FOB Not Detected FOB Left Vehicle Not in Park Push Brake Pedal and Push Button to Start Push Clutch Pedal and Push Button to Start Vehicle not in Park Warning.

No leds no bus I'd say.

 

[LouM]

It's also in this forum; the original poster did an excellent job posting this information;
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/co...it-breaker-documentation.173711/#post-2493367

 

[LouM]

https://ln.sync.com/dl/8279e10e0/wpp99a75-w75qtr3h-hzeff67w-c4tdwxxn

Plug a scan tool in and pull the codes and see what modules are down for starters. I'm going to upload the starting circuit, starting troubleshooting tree and theory of operation shortly. You should be able to see in a short time where the problem lies. Three files in that link they are all pdf's. In order to view them you may have to zoom in on the schematics with Cntl and Plus key.

By the look of the schematic you may have caused the bus to go down on the body module.

The LEDs in the IGNM and Start/Stop Button provide visual indication of the ignition system and button use to aid the driver. The Logic for LED control is implemented in the RF HUB. The Start/Stop Button contain four LEDs: OFF Indication ACC Indication (Accessory) ON Indication (On or Run) Ignition Switch Indicator (button backlight) The LEDs indicate the vehicle ignition position and are driven by the CAN bus signals related to the ignition position. The Center LED (Ignition Switch Indicator) will blink if there is a related concern. The RF HUB will log a DTC indicating an incorrect Ignition status value is present; in this state the ignition status is unknown. This will continue until the correct signal is received by the RF Hub. EVIC Operation The Keyless Go feature requires the vehicle to be equipped with an EVIC display for prompts and status information. The display messages are: Service Keyless System FOB Not Detected FOB Left Vehicle Not in Park Push Brake Pedal and Push Button to Start Push Clutch Pedal and Push Button to Start Vehicle not in Park Warning.

No leds no bus I'd say.

Good information on your link, thanks

 

[DaveSharp]

Good information on your link, thanks

Thank you sir.

 

[njjeff201]

Everyone needs a test light... buy locally or Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/6V-12V-24V-P...483661&sprefix=automotive+test,aps,161&sr=8-7

You need to do a load test on your battery see if it's healthy or possibly a dead cell. You need a mechanic to do this or Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=automoti...ve+battery,aps,164&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_3_18 Sounds to me possibly your stereo caused the issue. Might need to get the truck towed to your dealer. AAA comes in handy!!!

As far as fuses go... don't play games get the SAME one you removed. Overloading a circuit is a gamble !!!

 

[njjeff201]

Hi Dave.... interesting stuff. How may I ask did you come about those documents? Thanx... Jeff

 

[DaveSharp]

Hi Dave.... interesting stuff. How may I ask did you come about those documents? Thanx... Jeff

Sure, I queried a friend who has some resources and he sent them to me after I gave him a run down of the problem.

 

[tankertec]

grounds are important but yes not need to fuse. lot or weird issues usually mean loose or no ground. example had travel trailer in campground that when someone turn on interior light all exterior road lights from rear to front came on dim at rear and brighter at front. trailer plug was on dry ground 4 ft from my truck. checked battery box and found loose ground at bottem of battery box because bolt was going though floor and frame wood to nut below on metal crossmember. with ground not making connection voltage sought ground through light system. tightened bolt and problem gone.