High Voltage DTCs

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jelih

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Can anyone offer suggestions for these codes? Just started on the way to work yesterday. I get a split second dash message of "service electronic braking system" and it kicks me out of cruise control. It also flickers the headlights a bit sometimes. And once the dash went completely dark for a second. Battery is new as of a few months ago.
 

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DILLIGAF

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Some of the same codes in this thread. lots of good advise were to look.

 

SitKneelBend

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Can anyone offer suggestions for these codes? Just started on the way to work yesterday. I get a split second dash message of "service electronic braking system" and it kicks me out of cruise control. It also flickers the headlights a bit sometimes. And once the dash went completely dark for a second. Battery is new as of a few months ago.
Sometimes a new battery is bad (sometimes just defective other times you're the lucky customer that gets the last one that's been on the shelf a long time). Everything here would point me at the battery first. Colder weather often triggers a bad battery to show itself.
 

GTyankee

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Find a shop that can test the alternator

If i am not mistaken, Chrysler alternators have the voltage regulator built in.
They did that originally because the alternators sometimes overcharged the batteries.
The way it is currently set up, the battery can only get up to 85 or 90 %.
If you ever want to get closer to full charge, you will have to use a Battery Maintainer, preferably a SMART Maintainer
 
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jelih

jelih

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I work a ton of hours so it'll be tomorrow before I have time to actually look at anything, but I did a screen recording with the mx+ and this is the highest spike I saw. The first two days it did it, it was towards the end of my 20 minute drive to work. Yesterday it didn't do it at all, and today it did it within the first 2 miles and then behaved the rest of the way. Yesterday I didn't turn the cruise control on at all. Today, it did it while it was on but not engaged, and then I had it set to 65 the rest of the trip without issue.

Also, so far this is only happening on my way to work in the morning. On the drive home there are no issues. There's traffic in the evenings so the 20 minute drive turns into 40 minutes or more. But the winter weather is mild here so far in Houston so the temp only swings about 15⁰.

I may pop the alternator off tomorrow morning and take it to get tested. I've been meaning to replace the belt anyway. I'll look for and check all the grounds I can find as well as some connections mentioned in other threads and general condition of wires and cables. The place I bought the battery from had some fancyass machine to test my old battery before I replaced it, so I'll go back there and have them test this new one too.

Again, thanks for the help.
 

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crash68

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I may pop the alternator off tomorrow morning and take it to get tested.
Just an FYI, the alternator is actually controlled via the ECM. The voltage spikes could be caused a problem with the ECM charging strategy possibly from a faulty IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor located on the negative terminal).
 
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jelih

jelih

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Just an FYI, the alternator is actually controlled via the ECM. The voltage spikes could be caused a problem with the ECM charging strategy possibly from a faulty IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor located on the negative terminal).
Is there a way to test the sensor itself? First place I looked has it as a $205 part.
 
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jelih

jelih

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So, I went out to check whatever ground wires I could find but the first thing I found was that BOTH battery terminals were loose. I snugged up the positive but the neg wouldn't get any tighter, so I had to shim it with a little bit of copper wire. I bought a pack of lead shims but they're way too big and the clamp is the angled type that can't be pried open far enough to fit over it. I was going to file the gap on the clamp to get it to close tighter, but the end of the bolt has been beat on so much that I can't get the nut off of it, so speaker wire it is until I can change the whole clamp. I check the oil at least every two weeks so I'll start checking the battery terminals too.

I ran out of time today to check all the other connections, and I don't know what I'm doing tomorrow, so it may be until my drive to work Monday morning before I know if this solves my problems. And it'll take a few days in a row before I'm satisfied it's fixed it anyway. Will update then. Thanks, gentlemen.
 

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Had a similar issue happen recently. I had intermittent high voltages of over 16, and my dash would go dark, and I lost my power steering a few times on the highway. I found that the alternator connector was loose even though it was snapped in place. ended up cleaning/dielectric grease and have not had a problem since. I will be replacing the connector if the problem returns, which I racked my brain on for weeks, thinking I had a short, bad battery, bad PCM, or bad alternator.
 

jlm123

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Can anyone offer suggestions for these codes? Just started on the way to work yesterday. I get a split second dash message of "service electronic braking system" and it kicks me out of cruise control. It also flickers the headlights a bit sometimes. And once the dash went completely dark for a second. Battery is new as of a few months ago.
Hope you found your problem. I had a similar issue with high voltage and it ended up being the alternator connector was loose however it was snapped in place. i appreciate your post because this issue was driving me crazy
 
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jelih

jelih

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Hope you found your problem. I had a similar issue with high voltage and it ended up being the alternator connector was loose however it was snapped in place. i appreciate your post because this issue was driving me crazy
Have had no issues since I tightened up the battery cable. I check it weekly now. I probably should replace factory part that connects to the battery terminal because I had to use a shim to get it tight enough to not wiggle, but for now it's working fine.
 
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