Since cams are becoming more available for the VVT hemi engine, regardless of whose cam you choose, here is the how-to of doing the cam swap for the 4th gen trucks. This is honestly a job that can be done by anyone with basic handtools and basic mechanical skills. I did my first cam swap using a similar guide from the LX cars on my 2007 and I did it in a friend's garage. This How-to represents legally binding and technical advice, so anything you do that damages your engine will of course be entirely my fault and I will be entirely liable for the full cost of replacing your whole truck. [/sarcasm] Tool requirements: 21, 18, 15, 13, 10, 8mm sockets 3-jaw pulley puller (can be rented from a parts store) Air tools can make this easier but are not required; I don't use them myself. New parts required: cam bolt, crankshaft bolt While doing this swap it's a good time to do an underdrive pulley swap if you have the parts to do it, saves going back in and doing it again. I have taken some liberty with this guide since I have done a 6.1L intake swap and use an ATI balancer since I will be running 18psi of boost on this engine, so some things will be slightly different or no photos to document. I will place a list of all the torque specs required in the very last post as I didn't have them in front of me while writing this and it will all be in one location for easy reference. To get started you will disconnect the battery and the engine needs to be cool before starting. Remove the front grille by removing the 4 10mm bolts/screws holding it to the top of the radiator cross member. If you have active shutters, unplug the system, and pull the grille forward and down to unlatch the bottom of the grille from the lower mounts. Place rags or tape on the front bumper if it's painted to save the paint. Drain the radiator by removing the radiator cap and then opening the petcock on the bottom of the radiator. Use an 18mm socket to open the petcock, slowly, you don't want to pull the petcock all the way out or you'll have a big mess on your hand. Drain this into a clean pan as you can reuse the coolant if it's still in good shape, just cover the container so no dirt/bugs end up in it. Once the rad is drained as much as possible pull the upper and lower rad hoses using a pair of slip-joint pliers to make your life easier. Pull the hoses and drain the fluid left in them, more will come out of the lower rad hose, be ready to catch this. With the rad drained, disconnect the transmission cooler and pull the lines; use a 10mm to disconnect the hoses. Depressurize the A/C lines if you have A/C. Keep in mind that the fluid is toxic, you can either have it recovered by a certified A/C facility, or be horrible to the environment and discharge to the atmosphere, just don't do it in an enclosed garage where you will be breathing the vapours, I encourage you to have the system discharged by a certified shop. My system has been depressurized for 2 years now so I just pulled it apart. If you still have the factory clutch fan you will need to remove the clutch fan assembly before you can remove the radiator, this is simple enough to do and there are lots of how-tos if you google it but here's a good one that shows the e-fan conversion with the required steps to remove the clutch fan and shroud. ** EDIT ** the photos in the link are broken until we find a photobucket work around. http://www.ramforum.com/f75/how_v6_efan_conversion-17595/ With the coolant drained, A/C disconnected, and trans cooler lines disconnected you can now remove the radiator. There are 2 bolts that hold the rad in place, these use a 13mm socket on the upper crossmember, one on either side of the radiator, they are tucked into the radiator support but are fairly easily accessed with a short extension. With the radiator disconnected it will lift straight up and out of the engine bay. More coolant and trans fluid will come out, so place the radiator on a flat surface so it doesn't leak out or into a container. With the rad removed you can now easily access and remove the water pump, timing cover, and harmonic balancer. Start by removing the harmonic balancer using a 3-jaw pulley puller. There are 3 lugs on the back of the inside of the pulley but my puller does not fit on those lugs so I just flipped the puller over and used it on the outside ring, I've done this on older trucks with no issue. I loosen the crank bolt first and unthread it several threads before I begin using the pulley puller and as I bottom the puller out just loosen it off and unthread the crank bolt more, repeat until the balancer comes off. If you have a puller with the tapered rotating end then remove the bolt completely and use the tapered end right on the crankshaft snout. With the balancer off you can now remove the water pump and timing cover. Remove the alternator, power steering pump, and A/C compressor. All bolts are a 13mm socket. Remove the water pump first then the timing cover, you may need a pry bar to help get the timing cover off. Set the power steering pump (if equipped) off to the side, don't disconnect any hoses, just set it off to the side. If this is your first time ever doing this, mark the crankshaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, and any other sensors you disconnect with masking tape. Use a matching number system, so write a 1 on the tape on the sensor and a 1 on the tape on the plug, this ensures you put everything back to where it needs to go. With the accessories, water pump and timing cover removed you will be looking at the timing set shown below. **Note** there are several lengths of bolts used in the timing cover, if you don't have a good memory, mark these for which hole they go in, I believe there are 5 different lengths used: 1 common short length, 1 common long length, a single extra long bolt by the water pump, an extra long bolt with a threaded stud on it, and the long bolts used for the alternator and A/C compressor. To remove the timing set you need to remove the cam phaser assembly, you first need to remove the tensioner; this can be done by pushing it back and putting a small allen key into the hole in the tensioner to hold it in place. Then unbolt it with a 10mm and set it aside. See post #4 for the head removal and an alternative and BETTER way to maintain the timing without having to go through the headaches of trying to reset the timing set from scratch. After the tensioner is removed you can now remove the phaser assembly. BE VERY CAREFUL with this, you do not want to drop it as it WILL explode into a bunch of pieces!!!! With the cam bolt removed, carefully remove the phaser assembly, it will pull right off with the chain, just let the chain hang down onto the oil pump. With the phaser assembly removed you can now move up to the heads to remove the rocker arms. I have always removed/installed cams with the heads installed and never have I had a lifter fall into the oil pan with the modern hemi engine. Pull the coil packs off using a 10mm socket and set them aside and remove the valve covers by removing the 10x 8mm bolts per cover. Once these are loose the cover will just pull off, the passenger side can be a bit of a pain because of the factory wiring harness but lift it up and the cover will pull out. Check the gaskets on the covers, there is the 4 around the spark plug towers and the main gasket, they must be fully seated in their grooves. I've never had issues with them, but you should always check them when you get the chance. With the covers removed you are now looking at the valve train. You need to remove the rocker rails by removing the 5 bolts on each rail and you must do it without bending the rail, which is very simple to do: start in the middle and loosen the bolt slightly, then the middle two, then the outer two, repeat this process in stages until there is no tension left in the rocker bolts. When the bolts are loose remove the rocker arm and store it where it will stay clean, I flip the valve cover over and store the rails and push rods in it so I keep everything sorted for which head everything goes into. With the rails off, remove the push rods, note, the longer rods are the exhaust and the shorter rods are the intake. If you want, store them in a way that you know exactly where they came from. I use a piece of card board with a hole in it and it notes which cylinder they came out of. With the rocker arms and pushrods removed you can now begin the cam removal. You need to remove the thrust plate which covers the cam, remove the 4 torx bolts from the cover and remove the cover. Reinstall the cam bolt loosely to give you leverage and rotate the cam several times to allow the lifters to be pushed away from the cam's circle.