EriikK
Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2022
- Posts
- 57
- Reaction score
- 77
- Location
- Ann Arbor MI USA
- Ram Year
- 2015
- Engine
- 6.4 Hemi
Great write up! Thanks!
Two minor suggestions:
- the 21 ft lb torque spec is right for the M8 bolts that hold on the oil pump etc. But it is NOT correct for the M6 bolts that hold on the timing chain tensioner and guide. Those should be less. I'm guessing 108 in*lb or 9 ft*lb but I'm not sure.
- For the 6.4 the head bolt torque spec is different than the 5.7. Basically go to 40 ft lbs like the 5.7, then go around again to 45 ft lbs. Then turn 95 degrees not 90.
I just did this whole job on my 2015 2500 6.4. Valve job plus cam and lifters. It was triggered by a broken valve spring but along the way I found the rear-most cam lobe and lifter were pitted and starting to go.
My other suggestion, this is not required, but if you do a little extra work to take off the front radiator support frame, it makes engine access a whole lot easier. Probably not needed for a cam swap but if you are taking off the heads it makes all that stuff at the back of the motor *so* much easier to get to. You can step right into the engine bay and hug that hemi.
Basically once you have the radiator and all the coolers off, all you need to do is pop out the headlights and a few bolts, and that whole front frame comes off.
Two minor suggestions:
- the 21 ft lb torque spec is right for the M8 bolts that hold on the oil pump etc. But it is NOT correct for the M6 bolts that hold on the timing chain tensioner and guide. Those should be less. I'm guessing 108 in*lb or 9 ft*lb but I'm not sure.
- For the 6.4 the head bolt torque spec is different than the 5.7. Basically go to 40 ft lbs like the 5.7, then go around again to 45 ft lbs. Then turn 95 degrees not 90.
I just did this whole job on my 2015 2500 6.4. Valve job plus cam and lifters. It was triggered by a broken valve spring but along the way I found the rear-most cam lobe and lifter were pitted and starting to go.
My other suggestion, this is not required, but if you do a little extra work to take off the front radiator support frame, it makes engine access a whole lot easier. Probably not needed for a cam swap but if you are taking off the heads it makes all that stuff at the back of the motor *so* much easier to get to. You can step right into the engine bay and hug that hemi.
Basically once you have the radiator and all the coolers off, all you need to do is pop out the headlights and a few bolts, and that whole front frame comes off.
