How To: Add Factory Keyless Enter N Go

Evguy1

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Yes that function and almost all the settings are right but not a couple. I bought the one you gave me the part # for, 68234885AB. The not turning off and the fact that it says Automatic trans Set: Yes
I have gone through the BCM line by line to be sure I have it set to manual trans and it is. Its funny that the original RFH says No for automatic when I plug it back in.
 

Evguy1

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Looking back it was Trruck that gave me that number. The one you quoted was not available then but its what he used in his manual trans truck.
 

DoughRat19

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Looking back it was Trruck that gave me that number. The one you quoted was not available then but its what he used in his manual trans truck.
I looked up that part number and it’s definitely for a manual. what year is your Ram? 2500? I would double check the pins on the two hubs. Make sure they all match on the C1 connector side.
 

Evguy1

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I have a 2014 Ram 1500 witch used to be programed as an auto and pins check out on the connector. Acording to the Mopar connector site the 2500 manual has an extra pin in #15 TRS T41 signal that I have not found on a diagram yet. Its funny when I go into the RFH with AlphaOBD is says clutch switch is closed and I don't have a wire connected to it yet.
 
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Jimmy07

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I have a 2014 Ram 1500 witch used to be programed as an auto and pins check out on the connector. Acording to the Mopar connector site the 2500 manual has an extra pin in #15 TRS T41 signal that I have not found on a diagram yet. Its funny when I go into the RFH with AlphaOBD is says clutch switch is closed and I don't have a wire connected to it yet.
Hang on…I think it’s time to elaborate on exactly what you have going, and what brought you to thinking you need a manual transmission RF Hub. What engine and transmission did your truck originally come with, and what engine/transmission/engine control module is in there now?
 

Evguy1

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Time to lay the cards on the table, you can also see my build by following the link in my sig.
Its a 2014 Ram 1500 that had a 5.7 Hemi and the stock ZF8HP70 trans.
Still has the ZF8HP70 but with a Cummins ISB170 in front of it with a stand alone Sound German Auto trans controller.
I don't like to say all this up front because people jump to the conclusion that the Cummins is some how connected to the old Hemi ECU and other modules. ITS NOT. The Cummins and the ZF8 are totally separate and isolated from the trucks modules. This is why I want the truck to "think" its a manual trans so its not looking for all the ZF outputs. I had the old Hemi ECU flashed to a manual so its not looking for trans inputs and that all works OK. I drove the truck for a few months last fall with the Cummins and it almost all works and drives very nicely. Now I'm just trying to clean up a few loose ends. I have read a few threads where guys are swapping in manual trans and others going the other way so I assumed I should be able to make my truck think it was a manual. This new RFH has the input pin #7 for the clutch interlock switch which is something I was missing before. I thought just swapping in the manual hub would not add any new issues but it has.
 

DoughRat19

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Time to lay the cards on the table, you can also see my build by following the link in my sig.
Its a 2014 Ram 1500 that had a 5.7 Hemi and the stock ZF8HP70 trans.
Still has the ZF8HP70 but with a Cummins ISB170 in front of it with a stand alone Sound German Auto trans controller.
I don't like to say all this up front because people jump to the conclusion that the Cummins is some how connected to the old Hemi ECU and other modules. ITS NOT. The Cummins and the ZF8 are totally separate and isolated from the trucks modules. This is why I want the truck to "think" its a manual trans so its not looking for all the ZF outputs. I had the old Hemi ECU flashed to a manual so its not looking for trans inputs and that all works OK. I drove the truck for a few months last fall with the Cummins and it almost all works and drives very nicely. Now I'm just trying to clean up a few loose ends. I have read a few threads where guys are swapping in manual trans and others going the other way so I assumed I should be able to make my truck think it was a manual. This new RFH has the input pin #7 for the clutch interlock switch which is something I was missing before. I thought just swapping in the manual hub would not add any new issues but it has.
So was the hub you replaced for an auto or manual? This is a little outside my expertise but I would think that if it was working before, you would want to replace with the same type that was in there. The new hub should have a pin at position 7 and 15 on the C1 connector but I would think that doesn’t matter if you don’t have a matching female terminal on the wiring side which you would need for those. And being a 1500 unless the harness was replaced you’re not gonna have it. But again, this is a little outside of my expertise.
 

Evguy1

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The idea was to replace the auto hub with a manual one and I have added the wires into the harness connector for #7 and #15 but have not connected them to anything yet. I can easily connect the Neutral signal from the SGA system to the pin 7 so it will see a clutch input for starting and shifting to 4X4 low but have not figured out if I need pin 15 or where it goes.
This is outside EVERYONE'S experience. ;>)
 
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Jimmy07

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The idea was to replace the auto hub with a manual one and I have added the wires into the harness connector for #7 and #15 but have not connected them to anything yet. I can easily connect the Neutral signal from the SGA system to the pin 7 so it will see a clutch input for starting and shifting to 4X4 low but have not figured out if I need pin 15 or where it goes.
This is outside EVERYONE'S experience. ;>)
Pin 7 is for clutch interlock and that circuit just goes to ground when you push the clutch, so that circuit is not needed for your application. Pin 15 is trs signal for RFE transmissions only, and that circuit taps into the one that goes to pin 88 on the HD ram PCM C2 connector, so no need to worry about that circuit. I think you definitely need an automatic rf hub at the very least.
The push button start DOES need the TRS park signal from the TCM to pin 2 on the rf hub, otherwise the once the push button is in the run position, it won’t come out of run unless you disconnect power. This is the same behavior that the push button ignition does when I hook it up on a bench setup without a TCM.
What faults are in the rf hub currently?
 

Evguy1

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OK, We may be getting somewhere. My new Manual trans hub does not have a pin in #2 but does have the one in #15. I wonder if its the same requirement for this hub to have a TRS signal on pin #15 in order to turn off? I'll have to check the two codes in the morning. I remember one was clutch interlock system failure or something close to that. I don't have the wire from pin #7 connected to anything at this point. I'm replacing the original RFH that was an automatic and did not have a pin in #7 with a manual one so I have the clutch input for starting and 4X4 low. In my setup the truck systems cant see the ZF8 transmission so I'm trying to make it think it has a manual trans.
I have been doing these sort of swaps for the last 40 years but this one has been particularly difficult.
 
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