How To: Add Factory Keyless Enter N Go

Evguy1

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I'm wondering if its a manual hub where it would get a TRS signal from? I would think the only signal is the clutch one on pin #7. I think I just need to keep playing with the programming. Not sure why it wont program as manual when I was able to program the old automatic one as manual but it did not have the clutch input pin that I need. Maybe I should try to add the #7 pin to my old hub.
 

DoughRat19

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Thought you all might find this interesting. Working with a guy to help him install Enter N’ Go on his 2016 Ram 2500 (that he bought new) and he already had the wiring in the cab! First one I have ever come across. He still needs to determine if he has the proper wiring in each door though (my guess is no but at this rate who knows). Wondering if this was a mistake at the factory as I have never heard of anyone having the wiring if their truck didn’t come with push start from the factory.
 

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Mpgrimm2

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Thought you all might find this interesting. Working with a guy to help him install Enter N’ Go on his 2016 Ram 2500 (that he bought new) and he already had the wiring in the cab! First one I have ever come across. He still needs to determine if he has the proper wiring in each door though (my guess is no but at this rate who knows). Wondering if this was a mistake at the factory as I have never heard of anyone having the wiring if their truck didn’t come with push start from the factory.
Regular cab or crew?
I've seen some of the regular cab trucks have the upper trim wiring for other mods
 

Evguy1

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I think you definitely need an automatic rf hub at the very least.
The push button start DOES need the TRS park signal from the TCM to pin 2 on the rf hub, otherwise the once the push button is in the run position, it won’t come out of run unless you disconnect power. This is the same behavior that the push button ignition does when I hook it up on a bench setup without a TCM.
What faults are in the rf hub currently?

Jimmy07 I appreciate your input and maybe I'm looking at this wrong. I have been trying to make the truck think it has a manual trans when sounds like I should just let it think it still has the auto and satisfy whatever inputs it needs to start? With the manual hub the only error codes were a clutch switch system and missing TPS inputs.
 

oldmitch

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Pin 7 is for clutch interlock and that circuit just goes to ground when you push the clutch, so that circuit is not needed for your application. Pin 15 is trs signal for RFE transmissions only, and that circuit taps into the one that goes to pin 88 on the HD ram PCM C2 connector, so no need to worry about that circuit. I think you definitely need an automatic rf hub at the very least.
The push button start DOES need the TRS park signal from the TCM to pin 2 on the rf hub, otherwise the once the push button is in the run position, it won’t come out of run unless you disconnect power. This is the same behavior that the push button ignition does when I hook it up on a bench setup without a TCM.
What faults are in the rf hub currently?


I added keyless enter n go to my manual truck. But I mistakenly bought the RF hub for an auto truck (based on a parts list I saw on here, a couple years ago). My truck wouldn't start without a pin 7. As you know, the auto hub doesn't have a pin 7. So I just added some switches and relays to send power straight to the starter. It works just fine.......

Fast forward two years later, when I wanted to shift into 4low... That didn't work fine at all. I'm back to needing that "pin7"... So how do I trick my computers into thinking it's getting the input it wants? How do I trick the auto-RFhub into telling the ECU it's safe to shift into 4low? Do I ground a pin? Give a voltage signal to a pin? Any ideas?
 

TRRUCK

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I added keyless enter n go to my manual truck. But I mistakenly bought the RF hub for an auto truck (based on a parts list I saw on here, a couple years ago). My truck wouldn't start without a pin 7. As you know, the auto hub doesn't have a pin 7. So I just added some switches and relays to send power straight to the starter. It works just fine.......

Fast forward two years later, when I wanted to shift into 4low... That didn't work fine at all. I'm back to needing that "pin7"... So how do I trick my computers into thinking it's getting the input it wants? How do I trick the auto-RFhub into telling the ECU it's safe to shift into 4low? Do I ground a pin? Give a voltage signal to a pin? Any ideas?
I'm guessing the module needs to see it - so without that pin, not much you can do on the outside.

I too purchased the same one, but I then ended up ordering a manual module after you brought up and figured out that the pin wasn't there...
I opened up the old one, and looks like you can perhaps either solder in the pin, or personally i'd solder in just a wire and hook it up to the clutch wire on the harness.
Absolutely no idea if that would work - if it would even register it. but perhaps maybe worth a try..

Other (proper but $$$) option - get a new manual RF hub and new keys.
 

Evguy1

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I'm still fighting mine but did not need new keys when I switch hubs??
Just reprogrammed for the old keys. I was also able to set the new Manual hub for an automatic and then back to manual when I was making some changes so you can probabably do the same only the other way around if you can get pin 7 installed or jumpered. As far as I can tell pin 7 just gets grounded when the clutch is depressed?
 

oldmitch

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I'm guessing the module needs to see it - so without that pin, not much you can do on the outside.

I too purchased the same one, but I then ended up ordering a manual module after you brought up and figured out that the pin wasn't there...
I opened up the old one, and looks like you can perhaps either solder in the pin, or personally i'd solder in just a wire and hook it up to the clutch wire on the harness.
Absolutely no idea if that would work - if it would even register it. but perhaps maybe worth a try..

Other (proper but $$$) option - get a new manual RF hub and new keys.
I tried doing that, back in the way-back, with no luck. I switched the clutch wire on the connector, to the "park signal" location, and that didn't work (I think because clutch is a ground, and park-signal is not?). I even pulled a pin out of the old RF hub, and put it in the pin7 location on the new hub. Still nothing (maybe the firmware on the auto RF hub is just different than the manual RF hub.)

Anyway, I may just bite the bullet and buy the manual hub. A friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend might be able unlock my FOBs for me.
 

Evguy1

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I thought I did the fob relearn with AlpaOBD but have other software that I may have used, cant remember.
 
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