How To: Add Factory Keyless Enter N Go

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kad

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One other question: those who got a new hub, was it packaged in MOPAR factory packaging? Mine was just sitting loose on top of my other parts I ordered from allmoparparts- there was no factory packaging for that part. Just curious if somehow a failed hub got sent to me.

I can't say for an RF hub, but I can say that every part I've ordered from @AllMoparParts.com has come in factory packaging. Perhaps Benny can chime in?

-K
 

chrisbh17

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I think one of the parts I ordered was out of box, but there was an empty box in the package that was sent (I think it fell out during shipping).

The rest of the parts were in Mopar boxes but surrounded by bubble wrap. I have a feeling they open the parts to check, wrap them better with the bubble wrap then put them back in original boxes before shipping them to us (my guess is from Mopar there is nothing in the box other than the part, so they need to be protected a bit better during shipping)
 

WilliamS

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One other question: those who got a new hub, was it packaged in MOPAR factory packaging? Mine was just sitting loose on top of my other parts I ordered from allmoparparts- there was no factory packaging for that part. Just curious if somehow a failed hub got sent to me.

All my stuff was from Allmoparparts, everything was in individual mopar boxes. All 4 antennas, the hub and both door handles. Nothing wasnt in a mopar package.
 

chrisbh17

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Here's a question: How can I rule out a failure of the handle itself (short of finding known-good handles and stock connectors so I'm not cutting the connector off the handle)? Or a problem with the RF Hub actually functioning in relation to the passive entry portion. (Remote start, remote lock/unlock, keyless GO all work fine).

I re-wired the C2 connector yesterday, and used different colored wiring (tried to mimic the stock wire coloring) for each antenna and both handles. I only got the driver side done as I ran out of daylight/feeling in my fingers, but I STILL am not getting any function out of the driver side handle. I haven't run the passenger side yet, but will pin the C2 connector and test for continuity- but is there some other test I can run to see if the RF Hub is sending any kind of signal? And is there some test I can try to perform on the handles themselves to see if they're actually functional?

One other question: those who got a new hub, was it packaged in MOPAR factory packaging? Mine was just sitting loose on top of my other parts I ordered from allmoparparts- there was no factory packaging for that part. Just curious if somehow a failed hub got sent to me.

Have you tried the Door Handle Verification test in AlfaOBD? (or did I read that it doesnt actually work correctly?)

I would test for continuity *and resistance* as well. That *might* help determine if the RF hub itself is bad (without sniffing the CAN bus). I dont know if the resistance across the leads will change based on the handle being touched, etc. But you could check for resistance across the leads directly on the RF hub and then do the same test at the other end of the wiring once C2 is plugged back in. Is it possible the pins are getting pushed back in the connector when you plug it into C2? Checking for resistance at the end of the wires should determine that. As mentioned before, you should see ~9Mohm at the RF hub itself and at the end of the corresponding wiring.

The lock button doesnt work either? The unlock setup is a sensor but the button is pretty foolproof (pressed or not pressed).
 

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The handle test in Alfa didn't work for me when I tried it last week. Everything I had was in the original box inside of a larger box.
 

Ricks Ram

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I just recieved all the parts to do mine from allmoparparts.com and it all came sealed in the factory boxes.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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I didn't order from allmoparparts and mine all came in mopar boxes.
 

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Well, a full re-wire is finished (with heavier gauge wire) and still no functioning handles. And now when I check for faults, I do NOT have any: previously I was getting the B25A9/B25AA errors (Front Driver/Passenger Door Handle Sense- General electrical failure) when the handles were both disconnected (wires coiled in the kick panels) AND when they were connected but improperly wired (sense/return wires switched). Now there are NO errors with both handles connected. I can't completely rule out a pair of bad handles (however infinitesimal the chance may be), but at least I am confident that the wiring isn't the issue now.

Also, prior to connecting the passenger handle today (the driver side was all buttoned up and the door back together after yesterday's "fun"), I pinned the C2 connector at positions 7(sense)/17(return), I checked for continuity at bare ends (prior to installing the Amp Multilock .40 female connector/pins). I just got a brand new Klein MM400 with auto ranging functionality. The meter sounded an alert and showed 0 on the display (it reads "OL" when nothing is connected). I have no clue what the problem is, but I question whether this RF Hub is functioning correctly. Once again, my hub part number is P68245484AD (reading that number from both the physical label on the hub itself and as it reads from AlfaOBD).

As for what (and how) I received from allmoparparts: my package from Benny had the handles each in a plastic bag (not MOPAR marked bags, plain clear plastic bags) and they were bubble-wrapped at the bottom of the shipping box. Then, the four antennas were each in their own properly labeled MOPAR box. However, the RF Hub was sitting loose in the shipping box- no box for it at all. Also, my order was originally missing the Power Switch- that had to be shipped after I contacted Benny. I'm wondering if this hub have been a failed part that somehow got put in the "good stock" location?

I can't believe the wiring has problems now as it's all new. I worked much more slowly and methodically building each "harness" starting at the antenna install locations, and routing them to the C2 connector. Each wire socket is inserted into the proper location on the C2 connector and they all 'clicked' into place. Each pin on the RF Hub is present, not bent or "pushed in", so I have to believe the connections are good. I have remote keyless entry (lock/unlock with the fob buttons) and remote start, and the Keyless GO portion of the functionality is working just fine.

I got nothing now...:(:mad::confused:
 

skuppy069

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Well, a full re-wire is finished (with heavier gauge wire) and still no functioning handles. And now when I check for faults, I do NOT have any: previously I was getting the B25A9/B25AA errors (Front Driver/Passenger Door Handle Sense- General electrical failure) when the handles were both disconnected (wires coiled in the kick panels) AND when they were connected but improperly wired (sense/return wires switched). Now there are NO errors with both handles connected. I can't completely rule out a pair of bad handles (however infinitesimal the chance may be), but at least I am confident that the wiring isn't the issue now.

Also, prior to connecting the passenger handle today (the driver side was all buttoned up and the door back together after yesterday's "fun"), I pinned the C2 connector at positions 7(sense)/17(return), I checked for continuity at bare ends (prior to installing the Amp Multilock .40 female connector/pins). I just got a brand new Klein MM400 with auto ranging functionality. The meter sounded an alert and showed 0 on the display (it reads "OL" when nothing is connected). I have no clue what the problem is, but I question whether this RF Hub is functioning correctly. Once again, my hub part number is P68245484AD (reading that number from both the physical label on the hub itself and as it reads from AlfaOBD).

As for what (and how) I received from allmoparparts: my package from Benny had the handles each in a plastic bag (not MOPAR marked bags, plain clear plastic bags) and they were bubble-wrapped at the bottom of the shipping box. Then, the four antennas were each in their own properly labeled MOPAR box. However, the RF Hub was sitting loose in the shipping box- no box for it at all. Also, my order was originally missing the Power Switch- that had to be shipped after I contacted Benny. I'm wondering if this hub have been a failed part that somehow got put in the "good stock" location?

I can't believe the wiring has problems now as it's all new. I worked much more slowly and methodically building each "harness" starting at the antenna install locations, and routing them to the C2 connector. Each wire socket is inserted into the proper location on the C2 connector and they all 'clicked' into place. Each pin on the RF Hub is present, not bent or "pushed in", so I have to believe the connections are good. I have remote keyless entry (lock/unlock with the fob buttons) and remote start, and the Keyless GO portion of the functionality is working just fine.

I got nothing now...:(:mad::confused:
So if you bought a new rf hub would the keys you have now be able to program to the new hub as the keys have been already programmed to the hub you have now ?
I making another harness for the push to Start system but making it so the door antennas go in Behing the b pillar so all one would need to do is run one 2/c 22 awg cable into each door .
I just don’t have the handle connectors
Building one for my friend .
Have enough stuff to make two harnesses
 

vhmike73

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Good question skuppy069...that is something I did NOT think about. :mad: Great. I have to hope that connecting the C2 connector (which I'm certain is pinned correctly) to the new hub to check the passive entry can work regardless of the key programming, but that doesn't sound likely. Are keys locked to the hub? Programming the key to the hub required my truck's private PIN initially, but any other operation with the hub (replace/reset and the like) uses "0000". Perhaps that could mean my currently configured key will work with a new RF Hub. Thoughts?

At any rate, I asked Benny at allmoparparts about this situation, and I was told the "fix" for me to find out if the RF Hub is bad will be to buy another new RF Hub, see if that works, and if it does, let him know and send the first hub back to them so he can take that info to the parts manager to TRY to get a warranty claim through. And the warranty claim would require the vehicle VIN and mileage to be included with the request- of course since this is a non-standard install, my VIN won't actually show this being an available feature. That fact seems to mean I'm SOL, as he said he'd expect the claim to "bounce back". And now there's a valid question of IF I can even test a new hub since I may not have a functional key! :Frustrated:

Regarding the current hub, he wondered if crossing the wires (sense and return from the handles) could have caused a failure. I have no idea, but given that at least one other member in here messed up his pins but corrected it and is now fully functional (fearroyo I think ran into that issue), I'm not inclined think swapping the signal and return wiring would have fried the Hub. COULD that have fried the keyless go function? Possibly. Will I find out? Not likely.

I also asked him if it was possible a used/returned part could have been shipped to me by accident. He stated he didn't think that they could have sent me a used part as they are all supposedly special ordered, but unlike Ghost_Ram's pic (post #216) of his parts order, my RF Hub was not factory packaged when I opened my box from allmoparparts (he also ordered from there). My hub was just sitting in the box loose. I find it a bit hard to believe that a "special ordered" part got shipped from MOPAR to the dealership in that condition, and there's no good reason why the parts dude who boxed my order (note that that person also left the ignition switch OUT of my box) should have fully unpacked a factory piece for shipping purposes, but who knows?

Needless to say, I'm less than thrilled at this time. And yes, I realize Benny can't just GIVE me whatever I want- he can't be sure I didn't screw up the hub, he didn't pack the order so he can't be sure I didn't just toss the factory packaging and claim otherwise, and since it's a non-stock install, he can't just take me at my word that something has failed, but it still is a less than ideal situation. :(
 

skuppy069

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Good question skuppy069...that is something I did NOT think about. :mad: Great. I have to hope that connecting the C2 connector (which I'm certain is pinned correctly) to the new hub to check the passive entry can work regardless of the key programming, but that doesn't sound likely. Are keys locked to the hub? Programming the key to the hub required my truck's private PIN initially, but any other operation with the hub (replace/reset and the like) uses "0000". Perhaps that could mean my currently configured key will work with a new RF Hub. Thoughts?

At any rate, I asked Benny at allmoparparts about this situation, and I was told the "fix" for me to find out if the RF Hub is bad will be to buy another new RF Hub, see if that works, and if it does, let him know and send the first hub back to them so he can take that info to the parts manager to TRY to get a warranty claim through. And the warranty claim would require the vehicle VIN and mileage to be included with the request- of course since this is a non-standard install, my VIN won't actually show this being an available feature. That fact seems to mean I'm SOL, as he said he'd expect the claim to "bounce back". And now there's a valid question of IF I can even test a new hub since I may not have a functional key! :Frustrated:

Regarding the current hub, he wondered if crossing the wires (sense and return from the handles) could have caused a failure. I have no idea, but given that at least one other member in here messed up his pins but corrected it and is now fully functional (fearroyo I think ran into that issue), I'm not inclined think swapping the signal and return wiring would have fried the Hub. COULD that have fried the keyless go function? Possibly. Will I find out? Not likely.

I also asked him if it was possible a used/returned part could have been shipped to me by accident. He stated he didn't think that they could have sent me a used part as they are all supposedly special ordered, but unlike Ghost_Ram's pic (post #216) of his parts order, my RF Hub was not factory packaged when I opened my box from allmoparparts (he also ordered from there). My hub was just sitting in the box loose. I find it a bit hard to believe that a "special ordered" part got shipped from MOPAR to the dealership in that condition, and there's no good reason why the parts dude who boxed my order (note that that person also left the ignition switch OUT of my box) should have fully unpacked a factory piece for shipping purposes, but who knows?

Needless to say, I'm less than thrilled at this time. And yes, I realize Benny can't just GIVE me whatever I want- he can't be sure I didn't screw up the hub, he didn't pack the order so he can't be sure I didn't just toss the factory packaging and claim otherwise, and since it's a non-stock install, he can't just take me at my word that something has failed, but it still is a less than ideal situation. :(
I can send you a hanress I’m making if you want to try it out And see if that gets you going .
I should have it done by the end of the week here .
Then if your harness doesn’t work or Mine then we know it’s the hub
Don’t think it’s the door handles .
I’m just confused as alpha gives no faults on the door handles .
If you disconnect the door Handle wiring does a fault then appear in alpha ?
I still have this hunch that it’s something with your antennas in the truck not allowing the door handles to operate
Like I need to test if I leave the key fob next to the interior antennas will the door handle still operate on my truck .
 

vhmike73

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I ordered another hub (different vendor- it's actually cheaper there by a few bucks) and I will see what I get. I have a feeling even ordering another one from allmoparparts and verifying my current hub is inoperative won't result in a successful warranty claim, as Benny's messages didn't seem overly confident about success. And I don't want to burden you with making a harness then shipping it across North America, especially if you need to use it for a buddy. I really do appreciate the offer though!

First, in thinking more about the key/hub thing, I hope I will have key functionality. I think the BCM is where key data is stored. I know that this hub had to be written-to initially. My VIN was added TO it when I initially installed it using AlfaOBD, not read OFF it by the truck. (Benny never stated he needed my VIN to pre-write data, and I didn't order keys from him). Therefore, I think there must be no key data locked in the RF Hub. My logic flow is this: IF an antenna (either entry or internal) receives data that the programmed key transmits, the RF Hub checks the BCM and finds A) passive entry set, B) keyless go is set, C) highline fob present and the currently communicating fob is indeed coded to the BCM, so then D) the RF Hub sends the the signal that allows the either the pushbutton start to work or allows the handles to unlock the door. I HOPE that's how it works anyway. I don't see anything relating to key codes (or types) in my BCM dumps, but that could be something that isn't readable via AlfaOBD much like the private pin isn't read.

As for testing resistance/continuity on the hub itself, If I test the handle pins on the hub for each side I should get a resistance reading of ~9M Ohms across pins 6/16 and 7/17 (drv/pass pairs respectively), correct? Per my meter's instructions, "If resistance is measured less than 50 ohms, an audible signal will sound and display will show a resistance value indicating continuity. If circuit is open, display will show "OL".", which is the result when I checked continuity at the handle end of the passenger wire pair (I got a reading of "0" and the meter's signal sounded). I would guess if I check continuity across the pairs of pins on the hub, I expect that I'll see the same result.

Is there a specific resistance measurement for the passive entry antennas 1 (driver: pins 5/15) and 2 (passenger: pins 4/14)? I haven't tried disconnecting either door antenna since the rewiring job to see what (if any) error I get, but the last time I pulled one of the plugs off (with the originally run 24ga wires), I got a B1A72 error code (Passive Entry Antenna 2, open circuit). AlfaOBD reads all four antennas as present currently, and no error codes are coming up.
 

chrisbh17

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Re the keys....my understanding is during the programming process, they are "married" to either the RF hub or the BCM. They would need to be unlocked to use in a different VEHICLE, but Im not sure about a different RF hub.

I dont have the measurement with me but you should see resistance across the antenna leads. I want to say it was ~100Kohm but dont quote me (the list is at home). You are correct about resistance across the handle leads...9Mohm. If the RF hub is in question, I would disconnect all connections to it and check resistance across the C2 pins right on the hub itself. Then reconnect just C2 and check resistance at the other end of the wires (i.e. at the handles and at the antennae) and see if the numbers match.
 
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Jimmy07

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First, in thinking more about the key/hub thing, I hope I will have key functionality. I think the BCM is where key data is stored. I know that this hub had to be written-to initially. My VIN was added TO it when I initially installed it using AlfaOBD, not read OFF it by the truck. (Benny never stated he needed my VIN to pre-write data, and I didn't order keys from him). Therefore, I think there must be no key data locked in the RF Hub. My logic flow is this: IF an antenna (either entry or internal) receives data that the programmed key transmits, the RF Hub checks the BCM and finds A) passive entry set, B) keyless go is set, C) highline fob present and the currently communicating fob is indeed coded to the BCM, so then D) the RF Hub sends the the signal that allows the either the pushbutton start to work or allows the handles to unlock the door. I HOPE that's how it works anyway. I don't see anything relating to key codes (or types) in my BCM dumps, but that could be something that isn't readable via AlfaOBD much like the private pin isn't read.
Unfortunately, new hub= new fob. As soon as you programmed that fob, it, along with your VIN and secret key info got married to the new hub. If you’re going with a new hub, this would be a situation where you might want to see if @STecoD can unlock that fob.
 

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Good question skuppy069...that is something I did NOT think about. :mad: Great. I have to hope that connecting the C2 connector (which I'm certain is pinned correctly) to the new hub to check the passive entry can work regardless of the key programming, but that doesn't sound likely. Are keys locked to the hub? Programming the key to the hub required my truck's private PIN initially, but any other operation with the hub (replace/reset and the like) uses "0000". Perhaps that could mean my currently configured key will work with a new RF Hub. Thoughts?

At any rate, I asked Benny at allmoparparts about this situation, and I was told the "fix" for me to find out if the RF Hub is bad will be to buy another new RF Hub, see if that works, and if it does, let him know and send the first hub back to them so he can take that info to the parts manager to TRY to get a warranty claim through. And the warranty claim would require the vehicle VIN and mileage to be included with the request- of course since this is a non-standard install, my VIN won't actually show this being an available feature. That fact seems to mean I'm SOL, as he said he'd expect the claim to "bounce back". And now there's a valid question of IF I can even test a new hub since I may not have a functional key! :Frustrated:

Regarding the current hub, he wondered if crossing the wires (sense and return from the handles) could have caused a failure. I have no idea, but given that at least one other member in here messed up his pins but corrected it and is now fully functional (fearroyo I think ran into that issue), I'm not inclined think swapping the signal and return wiring would have fried the Hub. COULD that have fried the keyless go function? Possibly. Will I find out? Not likely.

I also asked him if it was possible a used/returned part could have been shipped to me by accident. He stated he didn't think that they could have sent me a used part as they are all supposedly special ordered, but unlike Ghost_Ram's pic (post #216) of his parts order, my RF Hub was not factory packaged when I opened my box from allmoparparts (he also ordered from there). My hub was just sitting in the box loose. I find it a bit hard to believe that a "special ordered" part got shipped from MOPAR to the dealership in that condition, and there's no good reason why the parts dude who boxed my order (note that that person also left the ignition switch OUT of my box) should have fully unpacked a factory piece for shipping purposes, but who knows?

Needless to say, I'm less than thrilled at this time. And yes, I realize Benny can't just GIVE me whatever I want- he can't be sure I didn't screw up the hub, he didn't pack the order so he can't be sure I didn't just toss the factory packaging and claim otherwise, and since it's a non-stock install, he can't just take me at my word that something has failed, but it still is a less than ideal situation. :(

Yes, I can confirm crossing the wires from the handles did not cause any issues at the hub.
 

vhmike73

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Unfortunately, new hub= new fob. As soon as you programmed that fob, it, along with your VIN and secret key info got married to the new hub. If you’re going with a new hub, this would be a situation where you might want to see if @STecoD can unlock that fob.

NOT what I was hoping to hear Jimmy. I wish there was an "Dislike" version of the "Like" button!

I guess I have to reach out and see if an unlock is possible...

UPDATE: I DID reach out to him, and he's currently unable to unlock fobs, though he's still working on it. But I wanted to point out that he's not quite there yet, if anyone else was curious.
 
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vhmike73

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Yes, I can confirm crossing the wires from the handles did not cause any issues at the hub.

I thought you'd said you had a miswired hub that you rearranged to get everything working.

The more I see here (like the folks who chimed in here saying they got factory packaged RF Hubs in their order FROM THE SAME DEALERSHIP), the more convinced I am that the order puller at allmoparparts went to the wrong shelf when they couldn't find the RF Hub, found this thing (without any packaging) and tossed it in my box. They DID ship it out on a Monday...if only they weren't on Long Island.
 

chrisbh17

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These were the resistance readings I got from my RF hub and wiring before installing them into the truck (note, I have not hooked up any handles yet)

Pins Resistance
2/12 - 96k
3/13 - 96k
4/14 - 190k
5/15 - 200k
6/16 - 9M
7/17 - 9M
 

vhmike73

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These were the resistance readings I got from my RF hub and wiring before installing them into the truck (note, I have not hooked up any handles yet)

Pins Resistance
2/12 - 96k
3/13 - 96k
4/14 - 190k
5/15 - 200k
6/16 - 9M
7/17 - 9M

Thanks Chris. I'll take the meter to the hub this weekend and see what I get on mine, specifically on 6/16 and 7/17.
 

vhmike73

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Even MORE fun for me!! Now I've been told that the RF Hub is on National Backorder. Great news!
 
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