How To: Add Factory Keyless Enter N Go

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Evguy1

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Yes that function and almost all the settings are right but not a couple. I bought the one you gave me the part # for, 68234885AB. The not turning off and the fact that it says Automatic trans Set: Yes
I have gone through the BCM line by line to be sure I have it set to manual trans and it is. Its funny that the original RFH says No for automatic when I plug it back in.
 

Evguy1

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Looking back it was Trruck that gave me that number. The one you quoted was not available then but its what he used in his manual trans truck.
 

DoughRat19

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Looking back it was Trruck that gave me that number. The one you quoted was not available then but its what he used in his manual trans truck.
I looked up that part number and it’s definitely for a manual. what year is your Ram? 2500? I would double check the pins on the two hubs. Make sure they all match on the C1 connector side.
 

Evguy1

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I have a 2014 Ram 1500 witch used to be programed as an auto and pins check out on the connector. Acording to the Mopar connector site the 2500 manual has an extra pin in #15 TRS T41 signal that I have not found on a diagram yet. Its funny when I go into the RFH with AlphaOBD is says clutch switch is closed and I don't have a wire connected to it yet.
 
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Jimmy07

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I have a 2014 Ram 1500 witch used to be programed as an auto and pins check out on the connector. Acording to the Mopar connector site the 2500 manual has an extra pin in #15 TRS T41 signal that I have not found on a diagram yet. Its funny when I go into the RFH with AlphaOBD is says clutch switch is closed and I don't have a wire connected to it yet.
Hang on…I think it’s time to elaborate on exactly what you have going, and what brought you to thinking you need a manual transmission RF Hub. What engine and transmission did your truck originally come with, and what engine/transmission/engine control module is in there now?
 

Evguy1

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Time to lay the cards on the table, you can also see my build by following the link in my sig.
Its a 2014 Ram 1500 that had a 5.7 Hemi and the stock ZF8HP70 trans.
Still has the ZF8HP70 but with a Cummins ISB170 in front of it with a stand alone Sound German Auto trans controller.
I don't like to say all this up front because people jump to the conclusion that the Cummins is some how connected to the old Hemi ECU and other modules. ITS NOT. The Cummins and the ZF8 are totally separate and isolated from the trucks modules. This is why I want the truck to "think" its a manual trans so its not looking for all the ZF outputs. I had the old Hemi ECU flashed to a manual so its not looking for trans inputs and that all works OK. I drove the truck for a few months last fall with the Cummins and it almost all works and drives very nicely. Now I'm just trying to clean up a few loose ends. I have read a few threads where guys are swapping in manual trans and others going the other way so I assumed I should be able to make my truck think it was a manual. This new RFH has the input pin #7 for the clutch interlock switch which is something I was missing before. I thought just swapping in the manual hub would not add any new issues but it has.
 

DoughRat19

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Time to lay the cards on the table, you can also see my build by following the link in my sig.
Its a 2014 Ram 1500 that had a 5.7 Hemi and the stock ZF8HP70 trans.
Still has the ZF8HP70 but with a Cummins ISB170 in front of it with a stand alone Sound German Auto trans controller.
I don't like to say all this up front because people jump to the conclusion that the Cummins is some how connected to the old Hemi ECU and other modules. ITS NOT. The Cummins and the ZF8 are totally separate and isolated from the trucks modules. This is why I want the truck to "think" its a manual trans so its not looking for all the ZF outputs. I had the old Hemi ECU flashed to a manual so its not looking for trans inputs and that all works OK. I drove the truck for a few months last fall with the Cummins and it almost all works and drives very nicely. Now I'm just trying to clean up a few loose ends. I have read a few threads where guys are swapping in manual trans and others going the other way so I assumed I should be able to make my truck think it was a manual. This new RFH has the input pin #7 for the clutch interlock switch which is something I was missing before. I thought just swapping in the manual hub would not add any new issues but it has.
So was the hub you replaced for an auto or manual? This is a little outside my expertise but I would think that if it was working before, you would want to replace with the same type that was in there. The new hub should have a pin at position 7 and 15 on the C1 connector but I would think that doesn’t matter if you don’t have a matching female terminal on the wiring side which you would need for those. And being a 1500 unless the harness was replaced you’re not gonna have it. But again, this is a little outside of my expertise.
 

Evguy1

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The idea was to replace the auto hub with a manual one and I have added the wires into the harness connector for #7 and #15 but have not connected them to anything yet. I can easily connect the Neutral signal from the SGA system to the pin 7 so it will see a clutch input for starting and shifting to 4X4 low but have not figured out if I need pin 15 or where it goes.
This is outside EVERYONE'S experience. ;>)
 
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Jimmy07

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The idea was to replace the auto hub with a manual one and I have added the wires into the harness connector for #7 and #15 but have not connected them to anything yet. I can easily connect the Neutral signal from the SGA system to the pin 7 so it will see a clutch input for starting and shifting to 4X4 low but have not figured out if I need pin 15 or where it goes.
This is outside EVERYONE'S experience. ;>)
Pin 7 is for clutch interlock and that circuit just goes to ground when you push the clutch, so that circuit is not needed for your application. Pin 15 is trs signal for RFE transmissions only, and that circuit taps into the one that goes to pin 88 on the HD ram PCM C2 connector, so no need to worry about that circuit. I think you definitely need an automatic rf hub at the very least.
The push button start DOES need the TRS park signal from the TCM to pin 2 on the rf hub, otherwise the once the push button is in the run position, it won’t come out of run unless you disconnect power. This is the same behavior that the push button ignition does when I hook it up on a bench setup without a TCM.
What faults are in the rf hub currently?
 

Evguy1

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OK, We may be getting somewhere. My new Manual trans hub does not have a pin in #2 but does have the one in #15. I wonder if its the same requirement for this hub to have a TRS signal on pin #15 in order to turn off? I'll have to check the two codes in the morning. I remember one was clutch interlock system failure or something close to that. I don't have the wire from pin #7 connected to anything at this point. I'm replacing the original RFH that was an automatic and did not have a pin in #7 with a manual one so I have the clutch input for starting and 4X4 low. In my setup the truck systems cant see the ZF8 transmission so I'm trying to make it think it has a manual trans.
I have been doing these sort of swaps for the last 40 years but this one has been particularly difficult.
 

Evguy1

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I'm wondering if its a manual hub where it would get a TRS signal from? I would think the only signal is the clutch one on pin #7. I think I just need to keep playing with the programming. Not sure why it wont program as manual when I was able to program the old automatic one as manual but it did not have the clutch input pin that I need. Maybe I should try to add the #7 pin to my old hub.
 

DoughRat19

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Thought you all might find this interesting. Working with a guy to help him install Enter N’ Go on his 2016 Ram 2500 (that he bought new) and he already had the wiring in the cab! First one I have ever come across. He still needs to determine if he has the proper wiring in each door though (my guess is no but at this rate who knows). Wondering if this was a mistake at the factory as I have never heard of anyone having the wiring if their truck didn’t come with push start from the factory.
 

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Mpgrimm2

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Thought you all might find this interesting. Working with a guy to help him install Enter N’ Go on his 2016 Ram 2500 (that he bought new) and he already had the wiring in the cab! First one I have ever come across. He still needs to determine if he has the proper wiring in each door though (my guess is no but at this rate who knows). Wondering if this was a mistake at the factory as I have never heard of anyone having the wiring if their truck didn’t come with push start from the factory.
Regular cab or crew?
I've seen some of the regular cab trucks have the upper trim wiring for other mods
 

Evguy1

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I think you definitely need an automatic rf hub at the very least.
The push button start DOES need the TRS park signal from the TCM to pin 2 on the rf hub, otherwise the once the push button is in the run position, it won’t come out of run unless you disconnect power. This is the same behavior that the push button ignition does when I hook it up on a bench setup without a TCM.
What faults are in the rf hub currently?

Jimmy07 I appreciate your input and maybe I'm looking at this wrong. I have been trying to make the truck think it has a manual trans when sounds like I should just let it think it still has the auto and satisfy whatever inputs it needs to start? With the manual hub the only error codes were a clutch switch system and missing TPS inputs.
 

oldmitch

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Pin 7 is for clutch interlock and that circuit just goes to ground when you push the clutch, so that circuit is not needed for your application. Pin 15 is trs signal for RFE transmissions only, and that circuit taps into the one that goes to pin 88 on the HD ram PCM C2 connector, so no need to worry about that circuit. I think you definitely need an automatic rf hub at the very least.
The push button start DOES need the TRS park signal from the TCM to pin 2 on the rf hub, otherwise the once the push button is in the run position, it won’t come out of run unless you disconnect power. This is the same behavior that the push button ignition does when I hook it up on a bench setup without a TCM.
What faults are in the rf hub currently?


I added keyless enter n go to my manual truck. But I mistakenly bought the RF hub for an auto truck (based on a parts list I saw on here, a couple years ago). My truck wouldn't start without a pin 7. As you know, the auto hub doesn't have a pin 7. So I just added some switches and relays to send power straight to the starter. It works just fine.......

Fast forward two years later, when I wanted to shift into 4low... That didn't work fine at all. I'm back to needing that "pin7"... So how do I trick my computers into thinking it's getting the input it wants? How do I trick the auto-RFhub into telling the ECU it's safe to shift into 4low? Do I ground a pin? Give a voltage signal to a pin? Any ideas?
 

TRRUCK

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I added keyless enter n go to my manual truck. But I mistakenly bought the RF hub for an auto truck (based on a parts list I saw on here, a couple years ago). My truck wouldn't start without a pin 7. As you know, the auto hub doesn't have a pin 7. So I just added some switches and relays to send power straight to the starter. It works just fine.......

Fast forward two years later, when I wanted to shift into 4low... That didn't work fine at all. I'm back to needing that "pin7"... So how do I trick my computers into thinking it's getting the input it wants? How do I trick the auto-RFhub into telling the ECU it's safe to shift into 4low? Do I ground a pin? Give a voltage signal to a pin? Any ideas?
I'm guessing the module needs to see it - so without that pin, not much you can do on the outside.

I too purchased the same one, but I then ended up ordering a manual module after you brought up and figured out that the pin wasn't there...
I opened up the old one, and looks like you can perhaps either solder in the pin, or personally i'd solder in just a wire and hook it up to the clutch wire on the harness.
Absolutely no idea if that would work - if it would even register it. but perhaps maybe worth a try..

Other (proper but $$$) option - get a new manual RF hub and new keys.
 

Evguy1

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I'm still fighting mine but did not need new keys when I switch hubs??
Just reprogrammed for the old keys. I was also able to set the new Manual hub for an automatic and then back to manual when I was making some changes so you can probabably do the same only the other way around if you can get pin 7 installed or jumpered. As far as I can tell pin 7 just gets grounded when the clutch is depressed?
 

oldmitch

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I'm guessing the module needs to see it - so without that pin, not much you can do on the outside.

I too purchased the same one, but I then ended up ordering a manual module after you brought up and figured out that the pin wasn't there...
I opened up the old one, and looks like you can perhaps either solder in the pin, or personally i'd solder in just a wire and hook it up to the clutch wire on the harness.
Absolutely no idea if that would work - if it would even register it. but perhaps maybe worth a try..

Other (proper but $$$) option - get a new manual RF hub and new keys.
I tried doing that, back in the way-back, with no luck. I switched the clutch wire on the connector, to the "park signal" location, and that didn't work (I think because clutch is a ground, and park-signal is not?). I even pulled a pin out of the old RF hub, and put it in the pin7 location on the new hub. Still nothing (maybe the firmware on the auto RF hub is just different than the manual RF hub.)

Anyway, I may just bite the bullet and buy the manual hub. A friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend might be able unlock my FOBs for me.
 

Evguy1

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I thought I did the fob relearn with AlpaOBD but have other software that I may have used, cant remember.
 
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