How to add factory 115V power inverter 2017+ Ram First off, if you don't have the wiring in place already under the seat and in the body harness, this will be a little more challenging, but not impossible. If anything, you'll have a greater sense of accomplishment. Second, this write up is specifically geared towards 2017, but much of it is applicable to 2013-2016 Rams as well. The difference is to the outlet and plug. There are likely some slight changes in the wiring harnesses, as to how the various body connectors are populated. I will not be covering any of the differences between model years. There are some differences in the IP-3 black(HD) (1500 is white or light grey) connector on the passenger side between 1500 and 2500/3500. I'll post both pin outs. Third, check your vehicle for the wiring you have. Everyone should have the inverter plug in the dash that goes to the outlet regardless of trim level. All 4 wires on that plug will go to the IP connector in the passenger side foot well. 3 of the wires go to the inverter, the 4th is a switched power feed from BCM. On the body side of that harness, make sure the same wires are on both sides of the connector. If you have all the wiring in place already, all you need to do is either enable the BCM registers, have the dealer add JKV to your VIN, or the easiest way is to jump a 12V switched feed to your outlet. You can slice into the power feed for the "cigarette" lighter port. Required hardware (minimum): 56046934AA - power outlet 35.75 list 1WP34DX9AA - Power outlet bezel 30.20 list 05026486AA - power inverter (JKV) 128 list 68050503AA - inverter bracket 11.50 list M4 x 0.7 x 10mm screws (4x) inverter to bracket M5 x 0.8 x 20mm bolts (4x) bracket to seat frame Additional hardware (harnesses and kits): Seat harnesses (pick one based on your options if you don't have the inverter harness under your seat): 68340908AA (JRT) POWER 10-WAY DRIVER SEAT & (CMA) HEATED FRONT SEATS 68340909AA (JRF) PWR 10-WAY MEM DRVR 6-WAY PASS SEATS (JPZ) HEATED REAR SEAT 68343447AA (JRT) POWER 10-WAY DRIVER SEAT 68343448AA (JP8) MANUAL 4-WAY DRIVER/PASSENGER SEATS (I haven't been able to confirm how this harness is populated. I'm supposed to have it in my truck, but the harness under my seat has a different part number that doesn't show up in the system.) If you're only missing some wiring, these terminal kits are available through the dealer: 05019928AA terminal repair kit Body side yellow plug 89.25 05183486AA terminal repair kit seat side yellow plug 62.20 68030094AA terminal repair kit inverter plug 46.35 68316928AA terminal body IP 3 2.8mm 18g pin kit 36.85 68316924AA terminal body IP 3 1.5mm 20g pin kit 32.00 To skip the factory harnesses and build a harness that goes directly from the inverter to the IP-3 connector: 1x 1456471-1 Plug for inverter. It is availble at Mouser electronics 5x 1326030-7 2.8mm socket 14-16 gauge. This is also the same socket to use in the PDC for inverter battery supply. 1x 1924955-2 1.2mm socket 18-20 gauge. You'll need at least 1 for the inverter plug. If you want to use the BCM signal, you can also use this pin. The BCM uses a KOSTAL pin that I have been unable to locate thus far, but this one is close enough that you can wedge it in there, and it will carry the signal. 2x+ 7114-4101-02 male pin for the IP-3 connector body side. Only place I could find them is Nexus, minimum order is 50. I have a number of extra though. Add 1 for the BCM signal if you go the hard route. 1x 7114-4112-02 male pin for the IP-3 connector. Only supplier again was Nexus, minimum 50, and yes I still have a bunch. Recommended tools: W-crimp tool - I've noticed that some autozones have these now. T20 torx Phillips head screw driver Small flat head screw driver (for pulling pin locks, locking tabs, etc) Harness build and terminal population: Inverter power lead: Step 1, locate PDC. Pull the Inverter Supply 30A pink fuse F38, or disconnect the battery. Remove the PDC using the 4 clips: Step 2, plug in your power lead at socket 38 on the grey connector. Use the 2.8mm female terminal with 14 gauge wire, approximately 15 feet to start. I ended up trimming off about 1 foot at the end to take out the slack. It would be good to also wrap the lead with some kind of wire loom, a woven nylon/plastic expandable sleeve is best. You can get it at a number of electrical suppliers. You might be able to find it at a computer store. Micro center has a multi-pack for under 30 bucks. *socket 42 is marked for reference. Step 3, route your wire around the engine bay between the battery and fender with the factory wiring, and into the cab. I decided to drill a hole in the plastic cover for the clutch pedal that I'll never have. You may find something better, but this seems to work. 3/16" approximate size hole needed. A little black silicone can be used to seal it if desired. Step 4, route your wire through the interior. I started by running the wire under the carpet from the fire wall. From there, you can run it alone the factory harness in the rocker panel. From here, you can go under the seat, and pull it out from the first hole in the carpet and route it to the passenger side, or fight and swear at it trying to get it under the carpet to the passenger side. Inverter harness build: Here you'll use the female 1.2 and 2.8mm female terminals with the plug for the inverter. you'll also tie in your power lead. Use 14 gauge for the ground, use 18-20 gauge for the AC Volt lines 1, 2, and 3. Again, it is recommended to use a wire sleeve. This is 3/8" expandable. I tied the harness and power lead together with a large piece of shrink tubing. Route the harness under the carpet to the passenger IP-3 connector. Trim to length. The ground can be terminated at the bolt shown. This is also used in the HVAC fan speed conversion. The black IP-3 connector circled is in both trucks, but only HD uses it for the AC volt lines. There is a similar white/lightgrey connector for the AC lines in 1500. HD IP pinout for AC lines 1500 IP pinout for AC lines 1500 IP black connector pinout inverter signal switch Populated HD IP-3 Completed Installing the outlet: Use the T20 torx to take out the screws at the top of the center console. In the "RAM" dish, they are under the rubber pad. After removing the screws, the rest of the fasteners are just spring clips. The dash should pull off. It helps to have a plastic pry tool. Locate the dummy bezel, pull the four screws, and install the outlet bezel assembly. The plug for the outlet should be plugged into a dummy hole in the dash, or taped back on the harness. This is the plug to the cigarette lighter power port. There are two wires, black and the power lead is Pink/green. You can use this with a splice to splice into socket 4 on the outlet plug, for easy inverter signal switch actuation. Installing the inverter: Saving the best for last, this part is pretty easy. Mount the inverter to the bracket. It's a metric screw. Pull the front seat cover clip, and you can peel back the seat cover and cushion just enough to access the holes for the bracket. The bracket should be tapped for a metric fastener, but mine was not, so I used some 1/4" bolts I had on hand. All done, easy peasy, lemon squeezey. Enjoy your 150 watts!