How to add power inverter 2017+ Ram

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Moab_Rockstar

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How to add factory 115V power inverter 2017+ Ram

First off, if you don't have the wiring in place already under the seat and in the body harness, this will be a little more challenging, but not impossible. If anything, you'll have a greater sense of accomplishment. ;)

Second, this write up is specifically geared towards 2017, but much of it is applicable to 2013-2016 Rams as well. The difference is to the outlet and plug. There are likely some slight changes in the wiring harnesses, as to how the various body connectors are populated. I will not be covering any of the differences between model years. There are some differences in the IP-3 black(HD) (1500 is white or light grey) connector on the passenger side between 1500 and 2500/3500. I'll post both pin outs.

Third, check your vehicle for the wiring you have. Everyone should have the inverter plug in the dash that goes to the outlet regardless of trim level. All 4 wires on that plug will go to the IP connector in the passenger side foot well. 3 of the wires go to the inverter, the 4th is a switched power feed from BCM. On the body side of that harness, make sure the same wires are on both sides of the connector. If you have all the wiring in place already, all you need to do is either enable the BCM registers, have the dealer add JKV to your VIN, or the easiest way is to jump a 12V switched feed to your outlet. You can slice into the power feed for the "cigarette" lighter port.

Required hardware (minimum):
56046934AA - power outlet 35.75 list
1WP34DX9AA - Power outlet bezel 30.20 list
05026486AA - power inverter (JKV) 128 list
68050503AA - inverter bracket 11.50 list
M4 x 0.7 x 10mm screws (4x) inverter to bracket
M5 x 0.8 x 20mm bolts (4x) bracket to seat frame

Additional hardware (harnesses and kits):
Seat harnesses (pick one based on your options if you don't have the inverter harness under your seat):
68340908AA (JRT) POWER 10-WAY DRIVER SEAT & (CMA) HEATED FRONT SEATS
68340909AA (JRF) PWR 10-WAY MEM DRVR 6-WAY PASS SEATS (JPZ) HEATED REAR SEAT
68343447AA (JRT) POWER 10-WAY DRIVER SEAT
68343448AA (JP8) MANUAL 4-WAY DRIVER/PASSENGER SEATS (I haven't been able to confirm how this harness is populated. I'm supposed to have it in my truck, but the harness under my seat has a different part number that doesn't show up in the system.)

If you're only missing some wiring, these terminal kits are available through the dealer:
05019928AA terminal repair kit Body side yellow plug 89.25
05183486AA terminal repair kit seat side yellow plug 62.20
68030094AA terminal repair kit inverter plug 46.35
68316928AA terminal body IP 3 2.8mm 18g pin kit 36.85
68316924AA terminal body IP 3 1.5mm 20g pin kit 32.00

To skip the factory harnesses and build a harness that goes directly from the inverter to the IP-3 connector:
1x 1456471-1 Plug for inverter. It is availble at Mouser electronics
5x 1326030-7 2.8mm socket 14-16 gauge. This is also the same socket to use in the PDC for inverter battery supply.
1x 1924955-2 1.2mm socket 18-20 gauge. You'll need at least 1 for the inverter plug. If you want to use the BCM signal, you can also use this pin. The BCM uses a KOSTAL pin that I have been unable to locate thus far, but this one is close enough that you can wedge it in there, and it will carry the signal.

2x+ 7114-4101-02 male pin for the IP-3 connector body side. Only place I could find them is Nexus, minimum order is 50. :( I have a number of extra though. :) Add 1 for the BCM signal if you go the hard route.

1x 7114-4112-02 male pin for the IP-3 connector. Only supplier again was Nexus, minimum 50, and yes I still have a bunch. :D

Recommended tools:
W-crimp tool - I've noticed that some autozones have these now.
T20 torx
Phillips head screw driver
Small flat head screw driver (for pulling pin locks, locking tabs, etc)

Harness build and terminal population:
Inverter power lead:
Step 1, locate PDC. Pull the Inverter Supply 30A pink fuse F38, or disconnect the battery. Remove the PDC using the 4 clips:
picture.php


Step 2, plug in your power lead at socket 38 on the grey connector. Use the 2.8mm female terminal with 14 gauge wire, approximately 15 feet to start. I ended up trimming off about 1 foot at the end to take out the slack. It would be good to also wrap the lead with some kind of wire loom, a woven nylon/plastic expandable sleeve is best. You can get it at a number of electrical suppliers. You might be able to find it at a computer store. Micro center has a multi-pack for under 30 bucks.
picture.php
*socket 42 is marked for reference.

Step 3, route your wire around the engine bay between the battery and fender with the factory wiring, and into the cab. I decided to drill a hole in the plastic cover for the clutch pedal that I'll never have. You may find something better, but this seems to work. 3/16" approximate size hole needed. A little black silicone can be used to seal it if desired.
picture.php


Step 4, route your wire through the interior. I started by running the wire under the carpet from the fire wall. From there, you can run it alone the factory harness in the rocker panel. From here, you can go under the seat, and pull it out from the first hole in the carpet and route it to the passenger side, or fight and swear at it trying to get it under the carpet to the passenger side.
picture.php

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Inverter harness build:
Here you'll use the female 1.2 and 2.8mm female terminals with the plug for the inverter. you'll also tie in your power lead. Use 14 gauge for the ground, use 18-20 gauge for the AC Volt lines 1, 2, and 3.
picture.php

Again, it is recommended to use a wire sleeve. This is 3/8" expandable.
picture.php

I tied the harness and power lead together with a large piece of shrink tubing.
picture.php


Route the harness under the carpet to the passenger IP-3 connector. Trim to length. The ground can be terminated at the bolt shown. This is also used in the HVAC fan speed conversion.
picture.php

The black IP-3 connector circled is in both trucks, but only HD uses it for the AC volt lines. There is a similar white/lightgrey connector for the AC lines in 1500.
picture.php

picture.php

HD IP pinout for AC lines
picture.php


1500 IP pinout for AC lines
picture.php


1500 IP black connector pinout inverter signal switch
picture.php


Populated HD IP-3
picture.php

Completed
picture.php


Installing the outlet:
Use the T20 torx to take out the screws at the top of the center console. In the "RAM" dish, they are under the rubber pad. After removing the screws, the rest of the fasteners are just spring clips. The dash should pull off. It helps to have a plastic pry tool.

Locate the dummy bezel, pull the four screws, and install the outlet bezel assembly.
picture.php

The plug for the outlet should be plugged into a dummy hole in the dash, or taped back on the harness.
picture.php

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This is the plug to the cigarette lighter power port. There are two wires, black and the power lead is Pink/green. You can use this with a splice to splice into socket 4 on the outlet plug, for easy inverter signal switch actuation.
picture.php


Installing the inverter:
Saving the best for last, this part is pretty easy. Mount the inverter to the bracket. It's a metric screw. Pull the front seat cover clip, and you can peel back the seat cover and cushion just enough to access the holes for the bracket. The bracket should be tapped for a metric fastener, but mine was not, so I used some 1/4" bolts I had on hand.
picture.php

picture.php


All done, easy peasy, lemon squeezey. Enjoy your 150 watts!
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OP
OP
Moab_Rockstar

Moab_Rockstar

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Extra credit section for extreme challenge participants, and sato-masochists.
Here are the enables in BCM, as well as the BCM pin locations to run for the Inverter Switch Signal:
The signal here in (BCM) Vehicle Config 2 needs to be "latching" raw value, 02
picture.php

BCM ECU Config 1 for the last two enable bits.
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Pinout for the inverter switch signal at BCM:
picture.php

picture.php
 

HvyDuty

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Amazing write-up! I have parts on order to build my harness. Will post when successful. :happy107:
 

HvyDuty

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Questions:

The dash connector wires run to the black connector (HD) in the passenger footwell?

Do I then jump the 4 wires from that connector directly to the inverter harness plug? Then ground out the ground wire to chassis?

For the power wire, run the wire from the fuse box directly to the inverter harness?

Thanks
 
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Moab_Rockstar

Moab_Rockstar

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Questions:

The dash connector wires run to the black connector (HD) in the passenger footwell?

yes

Do I then jump the 4 wires from that connector directly to the inverter harness plug? Then ground out the ground wire to chassis?

Yes. It's easier to skip the yellow connector. I would only use that connector if you got some kind of "package deal" and have the seat harness. The yellow plugs probably use the same pins as the other connectors.

For the power wire, run the wire from the fuse box directly to the inverter harness?

Yes. You might be able to get power off one of the other power leads, but you will run the risk of overpowering that circiut. It's safer and more reliable to run a new wire.


Thanks

Good luck
 

HvyDuty

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Thank you! My route is going to be much less elegant than yours... think butt connectors and t-tap splices... lol.
 

texacoon

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How much of a difference would this mod be for a 2013 Ram? ... From what I have seen usually they don't do that much changing for the various years to the wiring - unless they want to have some really new features like the 2018 1500 are starting to come out with.. yet I'm not sure if the wiring changed that much either..
 

Jkieffer

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Anyone have pictures of where the bracket mounts under the seat or what the harness looks like?


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crockett

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Why is the inverter under the seat and not somewhere in the dash? I'll come up with my own solution with an OEM outlet, but a proper 400 watt aftermarket inverter close to the outlet.
 

GIJoe2010

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Does anyone need the OEM dash outlet? Let me know
 

McBroom

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Does anyone need the OEM dash outlet? Let me know

I’m interested shoot me a pm with price please


I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
Blue Streak Pearl off-road
 

Jkieffer

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Keep in mind 2017 and up use a different outlet connection.

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kad

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So, if I were to build my own harness... The 3 AC lines and the power/ground for the inverter are simple enough, but I haven't figured out the relationship between the following:

1> Inverter Switch Signal (BCM pin 35)
2> Inverter Switch Signal (Dash connector Pin 4)
3> Inverter Status Driver Indicator (Inverter plug pin 7)
4> Inverter Switch Signal (IP Pin 30)

3 & 4 appear to be connected to each other at the IP, but I'm not sure where #4 goes from the IP connector body side and where #1 & #2 end up.

Anyone have the wiring diagrams?

Edit: Just found the relevant connector and wiring diagrams in the schematics archive. I need to sit down and cross reference them, but I think I may see how things go. Gives me something to do during my lunch break. :) I'll post again with what I figure out.

-K
 
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McBroom

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So, if I were to build my own harness... The 3 AC lines and the power/ground for the inverter are simple enough, but I haven't figured out the relationship between the following:

1> Inverter Switch Signal (BCM pin 35)
2> Inverter Switch Signal (Dash connector Pin 4)
3> Inverter Status Driver Indicator (Inverter plug pin 7)
4> Inverter Switch Signal (IP Pin 30)

3 & 4 appear to be connected to each other at the IP, but I'm not sure where #4 goes from the IP connector body side and where #1 & #2 end up.

Anyone have the wiring diagrams?

Edit: Just found the relevant connector and wiring diagrams in the schematics archive. I need to sit down and cross reference them, but I think I may see how things go. Gives me something to do during my lunch break. :) I'll post again with what I figure out.

-K

Pictures of the project would be appreciated as I’m doing the same project.
I might end up taking the thing apart and see if I can make a harness to go directly to the inverter.


I love my truck!
Blue Mule 18 Ram 2500 4x4 C/C Off Road.
 

kad

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Pictures of the project would be appreciated as I’m doing the same project.
I might end up taking the thing apart and see if I can make a harness to go directly to the inverter.

I will post pics when I do it (although the OP's pics cover most of it) but I don't even have the inverter yet, I'm just doing my research on the harness right now.

M2Mods offers a harness that goes direct from the inverter to the dash plug, bypassing the IP3 plug, so it is possible. You'd still need to know what gets hooked to what though.

-K
 

kad

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Ok, so I think I've almost got this figured out.

What I'm about to detail is for the '13-'16 1500 trucks, as opposed to the OP, which is for the '17-'18 trucks. The differences for the older 2500s should be same as listed in the OP.

The major difference is the connector in the dash. The older trucks have an 8 pin connector (7 wires, 1 unused pin) while the newer ones have a 6 pin connector (4 wires, 2 unused pins).

For anyone interested in doing an "Inverter Direct to Dash" style harness, the dash plug is a Yazaki 7283-3441-40 that uses the same 7116-4101-02 female pins as the IP3 connector listed in the OP. Nexus is the only US supplier I've found as yet and you have to buy a minimum of 5 of the connector and 100 of the pins. If you want to go this route, I'd recommend contacting @DeereGuy from M2Mods and having him build you one. (Unless you really want to have 4 leftover connectors and 93 leftover pins)

DashPlug.jpg


That said, I'm going to flip to the other end of the assembly and detail what I've figured out starting from there.


On a truck equipped with the Inverter from the factory:

The Inverter connector is an 8 pin connector with 6 pins used. All 6 wires go from it to the I420 connector, which is the Yellow connector under the seat.

From the Yellow I420 the main 14 gauge power wire goes directly to the PDC under the hood, to slot 38 on connector C6 (which is fuse 38, 30 amps). The remaining 5 wires (Ground, Driver & 3 AC) go from the I420 under the carpet and through the wiring channel in the door jamb to the I320 connector behind the passenger side kick panel.

For those who are adding the inverter to a lower trim truck, unless you are afflicted with a terminal case of "everything must be identical to factory" level OCD or you are extraordinarily lucky and they used a higher trim harness on your truck that has the wires already going to the I420, as @Moab_Rockstar stated above for the '17+, there does not seem to be any purpose in wiring things through the I420. It's far simpler to go directly from the inverter to the I320 connector.

From the I320 the Ground goes to a body bolt and the remaining 4 (Driver, 3 AC) go to the dash connector along with the Signal wire (detailed below).

The Inverter Switch Signal wire starts at Connector C6/F, Pin 35 on the BCM under the driver's side dash and goes to the I310 connector behind the passenger kick panel where it joins the 4 wires from the I320 and all 5 go up to the dash connector. This is the wire that, if you do not want to involve the BCM*, you connect to a 12v source only on with the engine running, such as the 12v power socket on the dash.

* Doing it with the BCM is a lot easier/cheaper nowadays with the AlphaOBD tool available than it was when this mod was originally posted. See the AlphaOBD thread for the proper settings.

At the dash connector the 5 wires from the kick panel connectors are joined by a ground wire and a wire connected to the Parking Lamp circuit. This is used to dim the indicator light like the rest of the dash when the parking lights are on. It's fused through F79, running via connector I315. I315 is another 26 pin connector, under the driver's dash to the left of the brake pedal On my truck the F79 fuse in the PDC did not have a wire attached to the output side. I added one a while back to run my air dam and side lights. The other use for the F79 fuse is for Cab Lights on the HD trucks, so if you have a HD of any trim level it should be present.

You have three choices for the pin 6 wire. 1> You can ignore it and the LED will be at full brightness even when the rest of the dash dims. 2> You can run a wire from the factory TIPM location to the I315, pin 25. 3> You can find another wire that has power when the lights are on and tap it to provide this function. Which way you go will probably depend on how willing to run wires you are and how/when you plan to use the inverter.

When I get all the parts in and get mine installed I will do a post with pictures and a full write up, but in the meantime I wanted to get this info out to those looking to do this on a pre '17 truck and maybe get someone who knows more about the Parking Lamp Feed to chime in.

-K
 
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chrisbh17

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Question - do you happen know *when* that inverter switch signal is active?

i.e. only during Run? does it work during remote start. etc?

Im considering using it as a trigger for a relay so I wanted to know when it would be active.

I have a 2017 that came with the inverter, so all wiring is factory.

Thanks.
 
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