How to add remote start to 2017 Ram

Moab_Rockstar

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Here's a list of parts you need to add for remote start to 2017 Ram 1500, 2500, or 3500:
Required parts:
68261143AA (2500 and 3500) - hood latch with switch
68159725AB (1500) - Hood latch with switch
68065018AA (1500, 2500 and 3500) - Plug repair kit, connector to latch and lead with terminals
**for 1500 3.6L there is an additional switch that is used for 3.6L ESS trucks. I'm not sure if this switch is used instead or in conjunction with the hood latch. It's probable that an ESS truck has remote start standard.

Optional parts:
56046955AG - RKE key with remote start button
-or-
56046956AG - Keyless enter 'n' go with remote start button

**The better option for the keys is to go on amazon or ebay and get the key pad inlay replacements for the keys you already have. New keys will have to be programmed by the dealer or a locksmith. Your existing keys already have the remote start contact, they just don't have a button. All the boards inside all the key types are the same, regardless of what options your vehicle came with.

Parts you should already have:
68319677AA - RF hub for RKE trucks
68319680AA - RF hub for Keyless enter n go trucks
The letters on the end may increment, but the part function won't change.

Hardware Install process:

1. Here is the plug repair kit contents. It has everything you need to put the hood switch in your harness. There are two sizes of wire, 16 gauge and 20 gauge. Use the 16 gauge together for the sensor signal, use the 20 gauge together for the sensor ground.
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The wire leads are long enough that you can splice them directly together, and it will work, but they give you enough crimp connectors to add in more wire. An additional 8-10 inches of wire will allow you to fully route the new wires with the factory harness. You need a minimum of 39 inches to get to the connector without straining the wires. You will need a W-crimp tool to properly crimp the wires. When you are done splicing your wires together, I recommend wrapping them in some conduit. I used 3/8 because that's all Autozone had. 1/4 will be a little neater. The order of you put the terminals into the connector won't matter, but make sure you install them in the correct orientation with the locking tabs, then install the locking ring in the kit.

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2. Install your new hood latch You will need a 10mm to remove the two bolts holding it on. The new and old latch assemblies are identical, except for the switch that is on the new assembly.

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3. Route your harness and secure it to the existing Front Module harness in a few places.

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4. Locate your Front Module harness connector. It's a gray connector under neath your PDC. There is an identical black connector on the outside, leave this one alone. The PDC should just have 4 fob-able clips holding it down, no screws to mess with.

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Locate the two pins you will need, 1 & 2 (2500 and 3500) or 5 & 6 (1500). Pin 1/5 is the sensor voltage, pin 2/6 is the sensor ground. the yellow/orange plugs just pull out. Disconnect the two halves of the connector.

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You need to remove the locking ring on the Front Module side. The body side should already be populated regardless of your package and options. Carefully pry up with a small screw driver at the 3 circled points. Remove the lock ring and put aside.

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Gently insert the connectors on your harness until they are fully seated. The have the same locking mechanism on the hood connector. Make sure the seals seat fully in the shell. Make sure to reinstall the locking ring and reconnect the two halves.

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Optional:
If you insist on the ridiculous expense of new keys, you will need the dealer or a locksmith to program them to your RF hub. After market tools may be able to do this, but you will again need to get the PIN number for your vehicle from the dealer. The best option is to simply change the inlays in your remote, which is fairly cheap and simple. If you've ever changed your remote battery, your just one more step from changing the button inlay.

Reprogramming the Modules dealer route (easiest):

Have the dealer add the XBM sales code to your VIN, and then they can run a "Restore" routine on your BCM and RF hub with WiTech that will automatically write all the appropriate bits. The dealer will have to request the sales code add-on through WIC (warranty information center), which will sometimes take 10-20 minutes to update in the system. When they submit the request, WIC will want confirmation that parts are installed either by dealer, or customer. At the very least, have your receipt to verify that your purchased the parts. Depending on your dealer, they may want to do a visual inspection, or they might just take your word for it. Results may vary.


Reprogramming the modules Manually (advanced user):

Now that the easy part is done, you can get to the really fun part of programming the BCM and RF hub. If you have a developer tool, you might be able to do this yourself. I have no idea what is available in the aftermarket. The BCM bits are fairly straight forward, the RF hub is a little more difficult, as it will require you to get the vehicle 4-digit PIN from the dealer. Other than that, there isn't really anything to program in the RF hub, it should learn the bit changes from BCM.

In the BCM there are three bits that need to be located and set to True/Set:
a. ECU 1 Configuration >>> Hood Ajar Switch Input Present
b. Vehicle Config 1 >>> Remote Start Present
c. Vehicle Config CSM1 >>> Auto on driver comfort settings menu

After writing these bits, do a module reset on RF hub. A number of BCM back up configuration registers in RF hub should update to the new settings.

RF hub has one bit that will learn to True/Set when you input your PIN number in the on-board routines.
RFHM Local Configuration >>> Remote start present



Congratulations, at this point you should be done. Enjoy your remote start. If desired, I can add some pictures for changing the inlays or locating some of the bits.
 
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00R/T

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How are you modifying BCM configuration parameters directly? The WiTech usually isn't able to do this, and I haven't seen any other tools that have quite that level of granularity for settings.
 

Moab_Rockstar

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WiTech should be able to do this manually. I don't know about previous versions, but the latest is able to access these particular bits. Worst case scenario is the dealer puts the sales code in the VIN and performs a "restore", which is probably the better route anyway.

I have a Chrysler development tool, which I can use to manually do almost anything with, but there are still some limitations. As far as aftermarket tuners, I don't really know what is out there, but I know there are some with pretty good functionality. I figured I'd just put out the information that I know for those who might be able to use it. Most people that will do this are probably going to have to go to the dealer for the actual activation part.

There should be a kit at some point from Mopar. It will likely include the two parts I listed above, with hopefully a complete harness ready to plug in, along with a couple of keys. No idea on cost, but it's probably going to be around 400-500 bucks. If you follow what I did, you'll be in for about 120 bucks on hardware. Dealer charges may vary. They might do it for a box of donuts, or free, or an hour electrical diagnostic fee.
 

jcarden10

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Based on the BCM settings you listed in your OP, I'm assuming you are using the AutoEnginuity tool that myself and several other members are using. If so, can you tell me where you found the Vehicle Config CSM1 settings? I don't see that as an option in my BCM module settings. Being that this is how you activated the Auto-On Comfort Settings Menu I'm hoping this could be the solution to activating the ParkView Settings Menu, so i can turn on the Active Gridlines for my backup camera.
 

00R/T

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Based on the BCM settings you listed in your OP, I'm assuming you are using the AutoEnginuity tool that myself and several other members are using. If so, can you tell me where you found the Vehicle Config CSM1 settings? I don't see that as an option in my BCM module settings. Being that this is how you activated the Auto-On Comfort Settings Menu I'm hoping this could be the solution to activating the ParkView Settings Menu, so i can turn on the Active Gridlines for my backup camera.


That's why I asked the question. Those options don't exist in the AE. As I suspected, he's using proprietary Chrysler tools most of us can't get.
 

CuylerTech

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That's why I asked the question. Those options don't exist in the AE. As I suspected, he's using proprietary Chrysler tools most of us can't get.

Im curious too.. havnt seen a tool that can do > then the AE thats not a wiTech pod.
 

Moab_Rockstar

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Based on the BCM settings you listed in your OP, I'm assuming you are using the AutoEnginuity tool that myself and several other members are using. If so, can you tell me where you found the Vehicle Config CSM1 settings? I don't see that as an option in my BCM module settings. Being that this is how you activated the Auto-On Comfort Settings Menu I'm hoping this could be the solution to activating the ParkView Settings Menu, so i can turn on the Active Gridlines for my backup camera.

In BCM, Vehicle Config CSM1 is one of the writable registers, it should be in the main module view. For AE, like 00R/T said, it probably is not available, or they might not have added it to their software yet. It's possible that it might be under a different name. I don't have any experience with Auto Enginuity to say anything intelligent about it.
 

CuylerTech

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In BCM, Vehicle Config CSM1 is one of the writable registers, it should be in the main module view. For AE, like 00R/T said, it probably is not available, or they might not have added it to their software yet. It's possible that it might be under a different name. I don't have any experience with Auto Enginuity to say anything intelligent about it.

Do you have a link to the specific tool that you are using?
 

Moab_Rockstar

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It's an internal Chrysler tool. The website only works if you are on the Chrysler network and certain suppliers.
 
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