How to Install a wire boot or grommet in the clutch delete plate for running wires into the cab

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kad

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How to install a wire boot or grommet in the clutch delete plate for running wires into the cab on a 4th Gen RAM truck

This isn't a complex thing to do, but I've seen a number of people lately asking where the clutch delete plate is and how to best get wires through it. Since I was doing just that I figured I'd photograph the process and do a quick write up. Because this method uses the clutch delete plate it will, of course, only work on a truck with an automatic transmission.


You will need:
  • Rubber boot or grommet.
  • Appropriate size hole saw or drill bit for the above.
  • 15mm deep well socket
  • Ratchet, universal joint and a couple of extensions.
  • Utility knife
  • Optional: Cordless ratchet
  • Optional: Plastic trim removal tool

I used a Daystar Firewall Boot and a 1.25" Hole Saw. You can us a standard rubber grommet instead of the Daystar, but the Daystar gives you a lot more flexibility down the road for adding more wires.

20180328_180600.jpg 20180328_180552.jpg


Onward:

This is the clutch delete plate from under the hood. It's on the driver's side just to the right of the brake booster:

20180214_091520.jpg


And this is from the inside, looking up from the driver's side footwell.

You'll need to remove the two nuts indicated by the arrows in the picture using the 15mm socket and your choice of u-joints, extensions and ratchet. If you're using a cordless ratchet you'll want to break them loose with the hand ratchet first.

20180328_174800.jpg



Once you have the nuts off the plate just pulls off from the outside. Due to the length of the bolts and how snugly they fit through their holes, you need to pull it straight out. Mine was trapped under the firewall material at one end (see picture below) so I used a plastic trim removal tool with a curved end to push the material away without damaging it.

20180328_175908.jpg


Once you've got the plate out get your drill and bit set up and clamp the plate down to a solid work surface that you don't mind drilling into. I used a drill press because, well, I have one. :) You want to drill your hole in the middle of the puffy area of foam. You can scrape the foam off first if you want to, but I didn't bother because the hole I was going to be drilling would be removing most of it anyway.

20180328_180626.jpg


Once you've got the hole drilled, clean up any burs from drilling and any excess foam that would interfere with the boot/grommet with a utility knife.

20180328_181557.jpg



Insert the boot or grommet into the hole.

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Put the plate back in from the outside and secure it with the 15mm nuts from the inside.

20180328_182835.jpg


I stuck a pen cap in the end of the boot as I knew I wasn't going to be able to get to the wiring for a bit.


-K
 

JB1

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Tip....I used a 3/8” Air ratchet on the fastners and it was much easier.


Installed it today

BEAE26FA-0302-4ED1-9266-B451FAE2E9B4.jpeg
 
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kad

kad

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Tip....I used a 3/8” Air ratchet on the fastners and it was much easier.

Yup, I used a 3/8 Earthquake cordless ratchet. Much easier, that's why I listed it as an optional tool. Just be careful not to accidentaly run your fingers up the extension too high and get the tip of your index finger pinched in the ujoint. Don't ask me how I know how much that hurts. :)

-K
 

JB1

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I'm sure glad you posted this, sure makes for a clean install
 

S0CAL

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Such a clean DIY. Thanks @kad !
 

Ramm5.7

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Yep, very nice!! I bought a multi grommet kit at HD for my original wiring last year, saw this thread and bought the firewall boot for my new wiring of the aftermarket oem auxiliary switches.
Either way is nice but this boot is the bomb.
 

S0CAL

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I have these parts now and am looking forward to cleaning up the rats nest of wiring that is at my old clutchplate.
 

PaulTGarrett

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This thread needs to be sticky'd... This is one of the best DIY tips on the Forum...

I actually bought the 5-pack of the Daystar boots, one for the clutch delete plate and a couple for under the back seat to run 2-way radio cables. CLEAN installations!
 

Ramm5.7

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This thread needs to be sticky'd... This is one of the best DIY tips on the Forum...

I actually bought the 5-pack of the Daystar boots, one for the clutch delete plate and a couple for under the back seat to run 2-way radio cables. CLEAN installations!

I originally had a grommet with wireloom and it was clean but these things are the bomb...lol
 

MMM

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Thanks for sharing.
 

shadowhawk

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FYI- I bought the new backing plate/close out panel from the dealer for $11. No shipping, just paid the msrp plus tax. it's one of the cheapest parts of my wiring project! :(
 
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chrisbh17

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I just did this mod last weekend. Dont have the replacement panel on hand, I figure if it ever comes down to it I can buy it when I really need it.

I only ran a 12ga wire so it seemed overkill to have the nice boot, but Im sure that will protect from weather/water better than just a small hole in the plate with the wire fed through.
 
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kad

kad

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I only ran a 12ga wire so it seemed overkill to have the nice boot, but Im sure that will protect from weather/water better than just a small hole in the plate with the wire fed through.

Even more important, unlike the hard plastic of the plate, the boot/grommet will not eventually wear through the insulation on the wire from vibration!

-K
 

WTM75

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Used this a couple weeks ago, when I installed remote start. This grommet works great and very easy to install. Thanks for the tip.
 
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PrdCdn

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This is amazing. I've done this on my 2010 Ram, 2015 and Now My 2016. So easy to do, amazing idea. Its awesome that ram left that plate in.
 
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