How to negotiate for a Chrysler vehicle and how to pay under invoice before rebates.

[baum]

so when my laramie stickered at 49.9k and i got it for 35.5k out the door with no trade i did good?

 

[Murphy Slaw]

And.....

I think if a GREAT deal and a GOOD DEAL with a local trusted dealer who might be in a smaller market is within reason, I'll shop local.

And I did.

 

[WilliamS]

Im a sales manager at a Ford dealer, and let me say the fun of negotiations are long over. Kids have no idea how to do it, and old timers still think theres 50% markup in everything. I have every car in my inventory other than the Raptor at $1000 under true invoice and people still get an attitude and think they need more. The old days of actual accomplishing a good deal are long gone, this generation are all about what they think they deserve, which for the work they put in is nothing in my opinion. They are the neediest, pickiest, most ungrateful people Ive encountered. Perhaps my generation was the same way to my elders, but its all over.

 

[ColdCase]

Yeah things seemed to have changed quite a bit over the past 5 years or so. Perhaps some of it is because of all the small dealers being bought up by larger ones and then consolidation of dozens of makes and models by one owner group. But maybe mostly because of the social media explosion scattering info that stimulates the competitive spirit. Used to be the I'm bigger competition was limited to the locker room, but now everyone has a cell phone and can participate

 

[ColdCase]

How does one get said friends and family deal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My former employer was a supplier and I could get an approval code/letter from the personnel department (there was an on-line application process in my case).

Members of organizations like Tread Lightly can also become a friend. Some join just for the discount. It used to be easier, but I think there is at least a waiting period now.

 

[WilliamS]

Ford is the same way, there are literally thousands of companies that get you a in our case Xplan. Theres an easy website to use to get the plan pin number. All you needed for Ford is proof you work for said company and you qualify and get the pricing. Its pretty easy.

I imagine Ram is about the same way.

 

[mtofell]

Dealers dream of folks getting caught up in all the numbers THEY talk about and throw out - hold back, invoice, incentives, rebates. All I hear is blah, blah, blah, blah. Give me the bottom line.... I don't give a crap how you got there.

Crawling inside of their numbers is a losing game no matter how you try to do it. They LOVE getting several different ones going at once to really confuse people. The "kiss" principle was invented for car buying.

Name one other thing you buy that you get so many numbers to arrive at the final one. All the information out there on the net these days has made it really tough for dealers to pull their usual BS. One of the last ways is to confuse people by moving a bunch of numbers around to make you think you're getting a deal.

 

[jschwanke84]

While most of what you are saying in accurate from a numbers standpoint and the way dealerships work, this is way more confusing than it needs to be, especially for the average Joe.

It is 100% worthwhile and noteworthy to shoot for a % off MSRP as your out the door final price, not counting any potential trade in. You really do not need to make it this convoluted. Rebates and discounts will always change, simply wait for a time when they are at their best and then go in aiming for 20-25% off MSRP. Doesn't matter how you get to that final number. You need to look at the entirety of the deal. Hit that target and you are getting a good deal. Are you leaving a few hundred bucks on the table by not following the tactics you outlined? Maybe, but you save yourself a lot of time and avoid probably looking like a *******. If you are nickle and diming that much on a $40k+ vehicle then something else is wrong here anyway...

As for trade ins, of course always ask for blue book trade in value, but ultimately you are being silly to walk no matter what if they don't give you that. The service department needs to thoroughly check every vehicle before they give you a final offer on it. Typically you can expect the used car manager to give you an initial offer just from visually looking at the car and driving it around the block. Don't accept that one right away, make them check out the car with a full inspection (only if you know your car is in great shape obviously) and then they will come back with a better offer. If they get close to KBB, and again if everything for the ENTIRE deal works out, just take it. To many people getting things done quickly and amicably is more valuable than dicking around forever just to save a few hundred bucks.

Just my 2 cents. Everyone does it their own way. Honestly I think most people way overthink this stuff. Like I said, when I am going in to buy a $45k truck I am not going to worry about possibly missing out on $500 I could have saved by haggling and/or wasting my time mulling over numbers. Now if I am buying a $10-20k car, completely different story. Value is very different in that price range.

 

[Totesmygoats]

I used Friends and Family on several cars, loved the no haggle, and the deal was great unless the dealer was giving a car away. When shopping for the 2016 RAM, however, I found dealers were offering better deals just walking off the street, did not need to be friends. I was able to save a ton of $$ by just shopping around a bit. But if you don't want to haggle or live in an area with few and far between dealers, the Friends and Family deal is decent.

FFP is the same thing as CARP, and as you discovered, it is not a good deal.

How does one get said friends and family deal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same thing as CARP, see original post.

Wow, that was a little mean spirited. You make a thread opening about purchasing a vehicle for the lowest pricing and you never bothered to research how to buy a RAM?

Dennis Dillon sells their inventory below employee pricing. Using their pricing you can make a deal in minutes instead of hours of pouring through a sea of numbers like you suggested. To each there own but I have other things to do besides pouring through hold back numbers, invoice pricing, and fees with a salesperson which in the end, means nothing.

The typical discount from MSRP at Dillon is just over 19% from MSRP plus tax, registration, licensing, and $250 Dillon charges for the documentation fee.

My last RAM purchase, the truck MSRPed for $70,000.00 even, the invoice was $63,096, hold back $2,450, Employee pricing was $60,016, friends and family $62,540. My purchase price was $56,551 (which included $1,500 in factory incentives) plus tax, license, and title. Made the deal in less than an hour and nine weeks later picked the truck up.

So, still want to hold that line, I didn't say much?

You literally didn't say much. It's not mean spirited, you literally gave no indication of how good of a deal you got or not. According to you, you got 7.5% off invoice, that's a very good deal.

Dealers dream of folks getting caught up in all the numbers THEY talk about and throw out - hold back, invoice, incentives, rebates. All I hear is blah, blah, blah, blah. Give me the bottom line.... I don't give a crap how you got there.

No they don't, they love people who only want to hear the bottom line. If you're comparing between dealers and don't care if both of them are overcharging you but just buy the car from the cheaper one, sure, bottom line is all you should care about. But, if you actually want to know what kind of deal you got, that's not very relevant.

 

[ColdCase]

FFP is the same thing as CARP, and as you discovered, it is not a good deal.



Same thing as CARP, see original post.



You literally didn't say much. It's not mean spirited, you literally gave no indication of how good of a deal you got or not. According to you, you got 7.5% off invoice, that's a very good deal.



No they don't, they love people who only want to hear the bottom line. If you're comparing between dealers and don't care if both of them are overcharging you but just buy the car from the cheaper one, sure, bottom line is all you should care about. But, if you actually want to know what kind of deal you got, that's not very relevant.

Why do you think they overcharge? Aren't dealers in business, and as in every other market, they charge what the market will bear, not a penny more. Competition routes out the real deal, collusion aside. There is no such thing as overcharging, doesn't happen.

Years ago FFP was routinely the best deal, although there were a few internet dealers offered substantially lower pricing until they were shut down. There are exceptions, but those are on trucks no one wants or those that need to be unloaded. For those deals its better to be lucky than on the ball.

And who gives a CRAP about CARP

The numbers game you suggest is just that, a game, perhaps useful when doing homework comparing across brands prior to buying tons of vehicles. Otherwise its a mental exercise, not relevant for the objective of spending as little resources possible for what you want, an academic exercise otherwise.

But you are right about inconsistencies about deal reporting, blinders on I got 35% off MRSP a year ago. In reality only perhaps 13% below the invoice number minus RAM incentives out the door (no sales tax or state fees paid to dealer here). 0% interest 5 years. And all I did was shop three dealers, was serious about buying, and stopped in the last weeks of a quarter and took delivery before the end of the quarter. Timing is everything

I spent a lot of time figuring out what I wanted and the numbers game bring insight into predicting what one is really paying for one option or another.... and which packages give you the best bang for the buck. Also useful for comparing say the out the door pricing for Ferd, Cheby, and RAM alternatives.

 

[huntergreen]

What's the invoice price on it?

And here is the issue. Why does everyone seem to think s dealer is going to hand over the invoice?

 

[Totesmygoats]

Years ago FFP was routinely the best deal, although there were a few internet dealers offered substantially lower pricing until they were shut down. There are exceptions, but those are on trucks no one wants or those that need to be unloaded. For those deals its better to be lucky than on the ball.

And who gives a CRAP about CARP .

CARP IS FFP, Anyone who wants to save 2% should care about carp, since anyone can get a CARP number. Are you guys just disagreeing without even bothering to read the post.

And here is the issue. Why does everyone seem to think s dealer is going to hand over the invoice?

If you read my post, you can find it easily. Dealers do regularly hand over the "invoice price" which again, if, you read my post, is not even close to their true cost, hoping you're a schmuch and will go "wow you're selling it to me for $100 over invoice great!" and most people do exactly that.

 

[TruckNut]

.........No they don't, they love people who only want to hear the bottom line. If you're comparing between dealers and don't care if both of them are overcharging you but just buy the car from the cheaper one, sure, bottom line is all you should care about............

I have everything laid out on a one pager. Trade value, % rate on the loan, and number I'm willing to pay them for their vehicle. I calculate all taxes and state fees, including processing into that figure I'm willing to pay. Dealers love that. Negotiated my wife's Ridgeline and my Mini as well. Saves time too. I always get Excellent trade in value and the higher # of KBB or NADA. Nice post.

 

[Totesmygoats]

I have everything laid out on a one pager. Trade value, % rate on the loan, and number I'm willing to pay them for their vehicle. I calculate all taxes and state fees, including processing into that figure I'm willing to pay. Dealers love that. Negotiated my wife's Ridgeline and my Mini as well. Saves time too. I always get Excellent trade in value and the higher # of KBB or NADA. Nice post.

That's how I do it too, and I tell them if they have dealer fees, charge away, just subtract them from the sales price first. It kills me inside though because it takes them a little bit before the manager comes out and folds, I have to sit and listen to what other people are paying and I just want to sit out front of the dealer with a sign that says "will negotiate for you" or something.