Jl is good stuff but really expensive for the performance. Ryan is definitely giving good advice if you are looking to save some money though. Sundown is top notch stuff. Either way you go you will be happy so it all comes down to what you want to fork out.
How'd I do with this negotiation?
- Thread starter Warl
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Warl
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Yeah I understand it's just these guys are giving a hell of a deal and were good to work with. I believe it was just what they had in stock and I asked for the best and that is what they gave me. The reviews on these subs and amp are really good so I really think they'll be worth it.
I mean 100$ for a custom fiberglass sub box that they have to have my truck to measure and mold? I can't pass that up and the only thing I can hope for is they know how to make it haha.
drittal
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JL is quality stuff, bit pricey. I still have an original 10W6 in the garage. Their amps are robust and in the past always out performed their ratings. Cheap big power, low ohm, class D(etc)amps are brutes but trade off audio quality(high THD).
I remember the old days before Class D, US Amps baby! They made a Class A/B that was 1/2 ohm stable, 2400 watts bridged at 1ohm and 44" long. The surfboard! Vlx-400.
I remember the old days before Class D, US Amps baby! They made a Class A/B that was 1/2 ohm stable, 2400 watts bridged at 1ohm and 44" long. The surfboard! Vlx-400.
autokraftgt
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First off, one of the best sounding cars in the US is powered by JL HD amps in Mark Eldridge NASCAR ... so JL is very much in the "SQ" category...and you pay for it
The price is not a total rip off as long as you feel comfortable with everything. Customer service is key, be involved, they offer a service/product warranty? Are they a JL dealer?,,,,if not, warranty issues can take for ever...literally
The price is not a total rip off as long as you feel comfortable with everything. Customer service is key, be involved, they offer a service/product warranty? Are they a JL dealer?,,,,if not, warranty issues can take for ever...literally
Warl
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Yes they are an official JL dealer with warranty.
baum
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OP the prices are MAP price (lowest advertised price). a shop has the ability to discount ore than that, but then they loose out on money. keep in mind you are paying for the shops knowledge, warranty if the product goes bad.
On a side note you can fit alpine type-r under the seats there is no need for the shallow JL subs. you can save alot of money if you dont get those.
you can get good sound out of the other JL line. Back in the day i had their 12 w0 sub in a box built for it and paired with only 125-150 watts (that all that sub needed) it rocked. people would always question then i said i had only about $250 into my sub/amp combo
On a side note you can fit alpine type-r under the seats there is no need for the shallow JL subs. you can save alot of money if you dont get those.
you can get good sound out of the other JL line. Back in the day i had their 12 w0 sub in a box built for it and paired with only 125-150 watts (that all that sub needed) it rocked. people would always question then i said i had only about $250 into my sub/amp combo
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Etroze86
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Well the equipment they "Matched" price on is MSRP so you are paying what is on JL site so I know for a fact that they are getting 100% profit on those items alone. The reason I know this is I get some pretty decent hookups in the car audio world.
Measurements can be all show or they needed to make sure the BBOX would fit or they could be modifying the BBOX. Anyways it really does look like you are getting hosed on this one.
Oh and that is a ton of money for shallow mount subs, the SD-3s would be a great buy and sound better than the JLs and not need a huge box to do it. Others I would look at are the Earthquake shallow mount, if you can find a Stereo Integrity BM MKIV, Digital Designs is supposed to have one clean sounding shallow as well. So lots of options, also check with JL and make sure they are an authorized dealer as if you ever have trouble with that equipment JL will not warranty if it wasn't installed by their techs.
Edit: My computer is being goofy and only saw the first page originally so all this was covered but what you have to understand is what you are buying. JL is great products but for just subs and an amp there is better products to spend that kind of money on. Hell Kicker's new SQ line should be just as nice sounding. Also pairing higher end subs with stock system and no EQ available you will be surprised at how little those subs will make compared to something that costs around $150 it all has to play nicely together to really hear a difference of what those subs will do. Oh last thing don't get caught up on what resistance an amp can run, as you will never hear the sound quality difference in 1ohm compared to 16ohm in a car audio environment. Also chances of any amp seeing a true 1ohm load is only when the system is off as impedance rises as the subs start to play, chances are you will be well above 2ohms.
Measurements can be all show or they needed to make sure the BBOX would fit or they could be modifying the BBOX. Anyways it really does look like you are getting hosed on this one.
Oh and that is a ton of money for shallow mount subs, the SD-3s would be a great buy and sound better than the JLs and not need a huge box to do it. Others I would look at are the Earthquake shallow mount, if you can find a Stereo Integrity BM MKIV, Digital Designs is supposed to have one clean sounding shallow as well. So lots of options, also check with JL and make sure they are an authorized dealer as if you ever have trouble with that equipment JL will not warranty if it wasn't installed by their techs.
Edit: My computer is being goofy and only saw the first page originally so all this was covered but what you have to understand is what you are buying. JL is great products but for just subs and an amp there is better products to spend that kind of money on. Hell Kicker's new SQ line should be just as nice sounding. Also pairing higher end subs with stock system and no EQ available you will be surprised at how little those subs will make compared to something that costs around $150 it all has to play nicely together to really hear a difference of what those subs will do. Oh last thing don't get caught up on what resistance an amp can run, as you will never hear the sound quality difference in 1ohm compared to 16ohm in a car audio environment. Also chances of any amp seeing a true 1ohm load is only when the system is off as impedance rises as the subs start to play, chances are you will be well above 2ohms.
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Ryan1126
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Someone probably should have already asked this, but Are you retaining the OEM headunit or do you already have an after market one? and if so what is it? Do you have anything done for your speakers?
Warl
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Yeah. 4100 nex and the mopar kicker speakers.
