How's my weight?

[JMod45]

I have a 2012 Crew Cab Laramie 1500 2wd, 5.7L Hemi, 3.55 rear axle ratio.
I recently bought a toy hauler travel trailer that weighs 5500lbs, but with 960lbs tongue weight empty.

I have a Blue Ox Sway Pro WDH, which had 1000# bars, but I was able to get the dealership to trade me for 1500# bars, as the tongue weight should be over 1000 lbs just by adding the propane tanks.

I took my setup to some scales this weekend with my new 1500# bars, to see how well everything was sitting.

Steer Axle: 3220 lbs
Drive Axle: 3640 lbs
Trailer Axles: 4880 lbs

I may put another 50-100lbs inside the cab when we go out, but seeing these numbers, I plan on putting all of my luggage, cooler etc. in the very back of the TT.

The back of the truck still drops, even with the WDH maxed out. I ordered some Timber Grove airbags this morning, which should put my truck back to stock height.

Do these numbers look alright to you seasoned towing veterans? I know the axle ratings are 3700lbs front, and 3900lbs rear, and feel like I am starting to get close to those numbers, especially if I leave too much in the font of the trailer, or bed of the truck.

 

[JohnnyMac]

I'm guessing @VernDiesel would have some helpful info.

 

[crash68]

Steer Axle: 3220 lbs
Drive Axle: 3640 lbs
Trailer Axles: 4880 lbs

Run your truck over the scale without the trailer to see where you front axle weight is at. If you put the weight back on the front axle and about 12% tongue weight currently have, you should be good to go.
If you add airbags, you'll probably want to double check the WDH set up.

 

[VernDiesel]

Your unloaded steer weight should be around 3,200 so your steer & drive weight look good from what I can see. You didn’t list your unloaded truck weight before loading the trailer so I can’t calculate how you have your tongue weight set.

Keep in mind even using the same hitch setting tongue weight can vary by where you put what toys. Many toy haulers tongue weight percentage comes down after loading the toys.

Generally you don’t want to put stuff at the very back of a trailer as it promotes sway & can remove more tongue weight than you want. Ideally luggage cooler etc weight is best over the trailer axles.

When using a WDH You determined tongue weight by subtracting the unloaded from trailer truck weight from the loaded with trailer truck weight. You add the tongue weight to the trailer axle weights from your scale slip for the gross trailer weight. Then you divide the tongue weight into the gross trailer axle for the actual tongue weight percentage.

You should adjust your WDH & loading by scale results to work toward say a 12.5 percent tongue weight.


Edit Lol Crash & I we’re texting at the same & basically said the same thing. I just gave a bit more detail & explanation.

 

[Loudram]

With these Rams the first thing to get maxed out is usually the payload. It's the weak point because of the soft suspension. That's the trade off for a good riding truck. Your tongue weight gets subtracted from your payload so check those numbers. You have the right idea, keeping your cargo in the trailer. That'll help your numbers. I believe your receiver is only rated for 1100lbs. So keep that in mind to.

 

[JMod45]

Your unloaded steer weight should be around 3,200 so your steer & drive weight look good from what I can see. You didn’t list your unloaded truck weight before loading the trailer so I can’t calculate how you have your tongue weight set.

Keep in mind even using the same hitch setting tongue weight can vary by where you put what toys. Many toy haulers tongue weight comes down after loading the toys.

Generally you don’t want to put stuff at the very back of a trailer as it promotes sway & can remove more tongue weight than you want. Ideally luggage cooler etc weight is best over the trailer axles.

When using a WDH You determined tongue weight by subtracting the unloaded from trailer truck weight from the loaded with trailer truck weight. You add the tongue weight to the trailer axle weights from your scale slip for the gross trailer weight. Then you divide the tongue weight into the gross trailer axle for the actual tongue weight percentage.

You should adjust your WDH & loading by scale results to work toward say a 12.5 percent tongue weight.


Edit Lol Crash & I we’re texting at the same & basically said the same thing. I just gave a bit more detail & explanation.

VernDiesel, I appreciate the input, I have heard your name mentioned around these forums a lot. Sounds like you are the wizard for these things.
I do understand that you want more weight in front the axle than behind. I am currently pulling the trailer without any motorcycles in it, so my cargo (standard luggage, bedding, cooler with a few days of food/drinks) should not be substantial. The trailer is roughly 30ft from hitch to the back, and only about 6 feet is behind the axles, so I can't imagine those items making more than a scratch at the tongue weight with that type of leverage. When I get a trip planned to take motorcycles with me (about 1200lbs total) then I'll have to reconsider where my weight it being loaded.

With these Rams the first thing to get maxed out is usually the payload. It's the weak point because of the soft suspension. That's the trade off for a good riding truck. Your tongue weight gets subtracted from your payload so check those numbers. You have the right idea, keeping your cargo in the trailer. That'll help your numbers. I believe your receiver is only rated for 1100lbs. So keep that in mind to.

I briefly thought of the rating for my hitch, and then got ******* in all of the other numbers. My hitch is a factory item, so I will have to look up the ratings for it. Thank you for reminding me.

 

[JMod45]

Unfortunately, I didn't get a weight without the trailer. The lot was really busy on Sunday afternoon, so I just got the loaded up weight, and got out. I did some rough math using the vehicle base weight numbers, and the total at least seemed to add up about right. So in theory, the base numbers for the truck could be used.

I plan to weigh everything again once I get the airbags installed, and the WDH adjusted. Will attempt a weight without the trailer as well, and get things dialed in as best as I can.

Right now, I am trying to make sure I don't overload the axles, and wanted to see how much cushion I had. I have a trip coming up that involves pulling the trailer about 1100 miles in one week. Trying to make sure everything is loaded correctly so the truck gets me back home at the end of the week also.

What I am wondering is, what does the axle rating actually mean? Can I leave 3900 lbs on the axle for 50,000 miles, and never have an issue, or does that mean 3900 is max, so at 4000, the axle gives up?

I realize that statement is a bit of an exaggeration, but I think the idea is understood. I know we are only talking about static load on level ground, and not accounting for 1000 other factors. I'm sure there is some cushion, but someone out there calculated 3900. Is that an engineer's number, or a lawyer's number?

 

[KSH]

The most important number is payload. Look at the sticker on your truck. No other assumed numbers matter, you can't extrapolate it. Look at the sticker, weigh the truck loaded without the trailer. Now you'll have actual specific numbers to look at in combination with your first weigh in.

 

[Riccochet]

Axle weight ratings are what matter. The sticker on my '17 CC Sport says my payload is 700#. Just how is it only 700#? I can have 4 grown men and a cooler full of beer in the bed and be several hundred pounds over my payload capacity, at least according to the sticker.

Take your curb weight and subtract it from the combined axle ratings, there's your payload capacity. That number will most likely be a little different from what you see on your sticker. Or, in my case, very different.

 

[JMod45]

I installed my Timber Grove airbags last night. While I was sliding around under the truck, I found the sticker on my receiver hitch. Says 1000lbs max tongue weight. I know I'm dancing around that weight quite a bit, so I went ahead and ordered a class V hitch rated for 1500lbs tongue weight (1600 with WDH). As long as I keep my load distributed enough to keep the rear axle under 3900lbs. Then I think I'm set up. Only thing I could do from here is trade it in for a 2500.

 

[crash68]

I found the sticker on my receiver hitch. Says 1000lbs max tongue weight. I know I'm dancing around that weight quite a bit, so I went ahead and ordered a class V hitch rated for 1500lbs tongue weight (1600 with WDH). As long as I keep my load distributed enough to keep the rear axle under 3900lbs.

That 1000 lbs rating is for the receiver hitch without a WDH. Using a WDH it jumps up to 1200 lbs
Unless your thinking of towing north of 10K lbs, then you can upgrade to a Class V...it will be on the 2500 you'll be buying.

 

[JMod45]

That 1000 lbs rating is for the receiver hitch without a WDH. Using a WDH it jumps up to 1200 lbs
Unless your thinking of towing north of 10K lbs, then you can upgrade to a Class V...it will be on the 2500 you'll be buying.

I did see those numbers on what looked like similar hitches, so I'm sure I would be alright. If nothing else, the Class V gives me some piece of mind. I've never really liked how my current receiver is attached to the truck. The bolt through the top, inside the bumper has never sat right, and always bothered me. After hooking up my WDH and TT, the bolt would actually stick up about 1/4", and I ended up having to take the hitch off, and bang on it with a hammer to get that bolt to sit down a little more, and it still isn't 100% right. I'm hoping this will get rid of that problem, as it doesn't appear to use that bolt.

Here's the bolt I'm ranting about, with my bumper removed.

 

[JMod45]

After spending hours researching how to make the 1500 handle weight better, adding a brake controller, installing Timber Grove airbags, and ordering a new Class V receiver hitch. I finally got everything set up so I can pull my trailer without worrying how I distribute the weight, or engine/transmission temperature issues. I am about 99% sure this will solve all of the concerns I had.

 

[Porter20]

Congrats on the new truck! I was following this closely because I have 1500 similar to yours and was curious of the GVWR of your truck Bc in your initial numbers it seemed you were exceeding that by 160 lbs or so.

Have a great trip!

 

[JMod45]

I loaded down my 2500 today, and took it too the scales.

Truck without trailer:
5180 front axle
3680 rear axle
8860 total. Man, this truck is heavy.

Hooked up without WDH bars attached:
4740 front axle
5160 rear axle
4900 trailer axle

Hooked up with WDH set in the middle:
4960 front
4840 rear
5000 trailer

Hooked up at around the highest setting:
5080 front
4620 rear
5080 trailer

I was definitely overloading the 1500, and the hitch that was on it. Got room to spare with the 2500 though

How do these numbers look to the experts?

 

[VernDiesel]

Wow that is a heavy truck. Your middle setup looks OK to me and your truck is so much heavier than your trailer it won’t matter much. It should feel very stable towing. Using middle example from your weight slip numbers you have 1140 TW (9800 less 8660) added to the 5000 equals 6140 gross trailer weight or 18 1/2% tongue weight. (1140 divided by 6140) You have a lot more weight on the tongue than needed. You may be able to transition some stuff from the front of the trailer to above the trailer axles for a more stable trailer not that you would ever feel it under normal driving.

You actually had per Ram specs (steer, drive, gvwr, cvwr, and even receiver rating with WDH) a within spec or legal and therefore stable tow set up with your trailer & 1500 setup. No need for the 2500 for that trailer but comforting I guess none the less.

For readers reference as example My 2014 1500 ED max specs
Steer 3,900
Drive 3,900
GVWR 6,950. (I use 7,800 like commercial vehicles as my hard number)
CVWR 14,500. (De-rated due to ED cooling limitations. 4th gen max 15,950)
Receiver 1,100/1200 with WDH
Max tow 8,800

Set Weight distribution loading and WDH according to CAT scale results for a legal & stable tow by staying within your trucks max specs. Found on door sticker or Ram site per VIN. No guess work required & more accurate & legal than hitch etc measurements. This is what Ram, SAE (society of automotive engineers) and to a degree the J2807 standards assures you. No need for key board guru bob from some forums home brew stack weight estimates towards a payload sticker number or any other home brew rule of thumb. Use Mfgr numbers and scales when and where available which according to cat website is about everywhere their is people. Cost; Typically $12 & $2 per additional weigh cheap for making sure your family is safe.

Add in one more thing minimum 10 percent tongue weight. 12.0 may be required for a flat front box TT when towing 65 mph with semi trucks etc.

 

[JMod45]

Wow that is a heavy truck. Your middle setup looks OK to me and your truck is so much heavier than your trailer it won’t matter much. It should feel very stable towing. Using middle example from your weight slip numbers you have 1140 TW (9800 less 8660) added to the 5000 equals 6140 gross trailer weight or 18 1/2% tongue weight. (1140 divided by 6140) You have a lot more weight on the tongue than needed. You may be able to transition some stuff from the front of the trailer to above the trailer axles for a more stable trailer not that you would ever feel it under normal driving.

You actually had per Ram specs (steer, drive, gvwr, cvwr, and even receiver rating with WDH) a within spec or legal and therefore stable tow set up with your trailer & 1500 setup. No need for the 2500 for that trailer but comforting I guess none the less.

For readers reference as example My 2014 1500 ED max specs
Steer 3,900
Drive 3,900
GVWR 6,950. (I use 7,800 like commercial vehicles as my hard number)
CVWR 14,500. (De-rated due to ED cooling limitations. 4th gen max 15,950)
Receiver 1,100/1200 with WDH
Max tow 8,800

Set Weight distribution loading and WDH according to CAT scale results for a legal & stable tow by staying within your trucks max specs. Found on door sticker or Ram site per VIN. No guess work required & more accurate & legal than hitch etc measurements. This is what Ram, SAE (society of automotive engineers) and to a degree the J2807 standards assures you. No need for key board guru bob from some forums home brew stack weight estimates towards a payload sticker method.

Add in one more thing minimum 10 percent tongue weight. 12.0 may be required for a flat front box TT when towing 65 mph with semi trucks etc.

As always, your input is appreciated. I've got more towing to do today, so I'll attempt setting the wdh in the middle and see how it drives. I was trying to get the front axle close to the weight with no trailer, which is why I cranked it down another notch. Didn't take bumps too well, so maybe that will help.

Bad thing about that tongue weight, all my luggage, and the recliners are at the back of the trailer. Spare trailer tire is located in the front (plan to mount it underneath the back in the future) wheel chocks, scraps of wood, power cord, and little stuff related to that are under the front. I guess a toy hauler without toys just makes for a lot of tongue weight. Lol

As far as trading in the 1500. Trailer wasn't the only reason for doing it. I was fairly certain that truck could have done it, but I definitely feel better with this one. I can now add a couple of motorcycles in the trailer and pull it up to the mountains. Feel like I would have been doing that at 55mph top speed in the 1500, and worrying about the rear axle all the time.

 

[VernDiesel]

Yep now you have room for more toys! Lol. Your 1500 drive axle was only 3,640 so I’m missing the worries their but agreed when I hit a long 6 percent grade with a high drag TH I’m often down to 55 by the time I’m cresting the top. Plenty of torque & gearing to get weight moving with an ED but more horsepower and cooling would help on the interstates. Enjoy