I was quoted $2k+ ?!

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headhunter123

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I've read and researched this forum about changing out my gear ratios. Some people said go with 4.10 or higher.
I called two places and one said , $2k because the mileage on my truck, may need new seals. The other guy said it'll probably cost $2k to $2.5 or higher because he'd have to check the axles, the bell housings, seals, whatever could be bent, etc.
All I want are the gears changed. Nothing more.
I've read that it should only cost, at the most $1400 max.
Is this a good deal????? What did you pay?
Also, I'm running 35x12.50x17s. 171k miles on the odo.
Should I run higher than 4.10s? Mostly highway driving with some off road fun once in awhile.
 

N1ck

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Not exactly the same, but I had a '94 5.0 Mustang regeared last year, it had 365,000kms which is around 200K miles. I brought the shop the 4.10's new bearings and install kit and i was charged $380 after taxes, to do the front i'd figure another $380. I would think you could get the labor done for $900-$1300.
 

1SilverBullet2

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I'm doing 4.56's in my truck and I was quoted 1,800-2000 for everything. They're gunna rebuild the axles so that's why it will be expensive. Plus you got see the labor rates and amount of time needed to change gear sets. I'm also getting my lsd in the back rebuilt as well. Nothing is cheap these days when someone else does the work.
 
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headhunter123

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I'm doing 4.56's in my truck and I was quoted 1,800-2000 for everything. They're gunna rebuild the axles so that's why it will be expensive. Plus you got see the labor rates and amount of time needed to change gear sets. I'm also getting my lsd in the back rebuilt as well. Nothing is cheap these days when someone else does the work.

The first guy said $2000 just to change the gears and seals. That's it.
 
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headhunter123

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I'm doing 4.56's in my truck and I was quoted 1,800-2000 for everything. They're gunna rebuild the axles so that's why it will be expensive. Plus you got see the labor rates and amount of time needed to change gear sets. I'm also getting my lsd in the back rebuilt as well. Nothing is cheap these days when someone else does the work.

What size tires and rims do you have on?

Oh yeah. I asked the first guy, what if I just buy the gears and you just put them on? He told me I could get Yukon gears. I was like, uh huh. I'll do that. Yeah right.
 

1SilverBullet2

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Shops differ one from another, most around my area were in the same range. Like I said it's not cheap to have someone else do gears. I know how shops work, I work at a CAT dealership. I haven't seen anyone else have super cheap shop prices for regearing unless they did it themselves. Sorry man.
 

1SilverBullet2

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I only have 31's on 16" rims but I'm going to 35's when my lift goes on. Staying with my 16" rims as well.
 

Merc225hp

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Most shops will price out all thats needed even if it is not, thats how it goes. I charge $300 for the front and $200 for the rear no parts in those prices, just labour. The front will cost the most to do as it is a full teardown about 4-6 hours work just on that diff. To me the price is in range but many here will not agree with that price.
 

rowdyram

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I agree with what merc said. That seems reasonable. If done correctly.
Just a quality set of gears will usually start at 250 and go up. There's 500 right there. You'll want to replace the carrier bearings, and the pinion bearings are almost always break during removal so a full bearing and seal kit is 100 plus depending on the brand x2. So there's 700 and that doesn't include the 10 hours of labor or gear oil, side gear set if needed(recommend) or rear axle bearings and seals. every time I tear down a monotube front axle I always replace those inner axle seals since they're probably going to leak when your done and the axles and carrier have to be removed to do them. I think 2k is fair assuming they're doing it right and not just bending you over
 
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NYCruiser

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A shop has to inspect and replace everything in there because they have to warrantee the job. They won't usually let any questionable or high mileage parts remain that they need to disassemble to reach after the fact.
 

brandonjansen

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$2000 - $2500 is exactly right for a gear swap in a 4wd truck. Good parts aren't cheap and it's not just a matter of replacing the ring and pinion. Most of the time the pinion bearing will need to be replaced as well, carrier bearings will need to be replaced if they're worn out, pinion shims and crush sleeves are always required. It's quite an extensive process.... It cost me just shy of $3000 to regear my 3500.

I wouldn't go any higher than 4.10's with 35's if you're driving on the highway quite often. That will be a good setup.
 

1SilverBullet2

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So 4.56's be overkill for 35's? I keep seeing different opinions on gears.
 

Merc225hp

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So 4.56's be overkill for 35's? I keep seeing different opinions on gears.

And that you will, what suits one person might not suit your needs for a gear ratio.
 

brandonjansen

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So 4.56's be overkill for 35's? I keep seeing different opinions on gears.

Depends what kind of driving you're doing. If you're towing, racing and just driving in town then you can get away with 4.56's. If you drive on the highway a lot then 4.56's will be too high for 35's.

Check out this gear ratio calculator. You can input all the information about your truck regarding transmission gear ratios etc. then the overall tire size and gear ratio. Then on the bottom you can input different speeds and it will calculate what your RPM will be at for those speeds. Really helps determine what gear ratio to go with depending on your typical driving speeds.

Gear Ratio Calculator
 

BBartow

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Not overkill. You'll run at a higher rpm with 4.56s which will feel more peppy. 4.10s would run lower saving gas. 4.10s with 35s is like 3.55s and 30s, so essentially stock. If you don't have O/D off at high speeds (like towing) I would go with 4.56s. The extra oomph is worth it imo.
 

Merc225hp

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Here.
..................................In O/D.................... In 3rd

with 3.55..245/75R16 = 1757rpm @ 65mph.....2546rpm
............. 265/75R16 = 1691rpm @ 65mph.....2451rpm
..............285/75R16 = 1630rpm @ 65mph.....2363rpm
..............315/75R16 = 1574rpm @ 65mph.....2242rpm


with 3.92...245/75R16 = 1940rpm @ 65mph....2811rpm
...............265/75R16 = 1867rpm @ 65mph....2706rpm
...............285/75R16 = 1800rpm @ 65mph....2609rpm
...............315/75R16 = 1708rpm @ 65mph....2475rpm

with 4.10...245/75R16 = 2029rpm @ 65mph....2940rpm
................265/75R16 = 1953rpm @ 65mph....2830rpm
................285/75R16 = 1883rpm @ 65mph....2729rpm
................315/75R16 = 1786rpm @ 65mph....2589rpm

with 4.56....245/75R16 = 2256rpm @ 65mph.....3270rpm
................265/75R16 = 2172rpm @ 65mph.....3148rpm
................285/75R16 = 2094rpm @ 65mph.....3021rpm
................315/75R16 = 1987rpm @ 65mph.....2879rpm

with 4.88....245/75R16 = 2415rpm @ 65mph.....3499rpm
................265/75R16 = 2324rpm @ 65mph......3369rpm
................285/75R16 = 2241rpm @ 65mph......3248rpm
................315/75R16 = 2126rpm @ 65mph......3081rpm
 
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Arlucian

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Here.
In O/D In 3rd

with 3.55 gears 245/75R16 = 1757rpm @ 65mph 2546rpm
265/75R16 = 1691rpm @ 65mph 2451rpm
285/75R16 = 1630rpm @ 65mph 2363rpm
315/75R16 = 1574rpm @ 65mph 2242rpm


with 3.92 245/75R16 = 1940rpm @ 65mph 2811rpm
265/75R16 = 1867rpm @ 65mph 2706rpm
285/75R16 = 1800rpm @ 65mph 2609rpm
315/75R16 = 1708rpm @ 65mph 2475rpm

with 4.10 245/75R16 = 2029rpm @ 65mph 2940rpm
265/75R16 = 1953rpm @ 65mph 2830rpm
285/75R16 = 1883rpm @ 65mph 2729rpm
315/75R16 = 1786rpm @ 65mph 2589rpm

with 4.56 245/75R16 = 2256rpm @ 65mph 3270rpm
265/75R16 = 2172rpm @ 65mph 3148rpm
285/75R16 = 2094rpm @ 65mph 3021rpm
315/75R16 = 1987rpm @ 65mph 2879rpm

with 4.88 245/75R16 = 2415rpm @ 65mph 3499rpm
265/75R16 = 2324rpm @ 65mph 3369rpm
285/75R16 = 2241rpm @ 65mph 3248rpm
315/75R16 = 2126rpm @ 65mph 3081rpm

What is the second RPM? the first is your engine speed at 65 mph right? what is the second?
 

1SilverBullet2

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Hmmm, I knew 4.10's would be easier on gas. I'll be driving to and from work with my truck and half of that is interstate. It's about 300 miles one way to college (interstate). I do a lot of highway driving, I rarely tow or race, I do off-road...I'd like some power as well, but keep mileage at all possible. Looks like I have some thinking to do.
 
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headhunter123

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While driving on the highway, my speedo needle was 70 mph, my rpm needle was under 2. Is that regular rpms for that speed? I'd have to double check though. Unless there's previous owner(s) put something in.
I do know that while it reads 70mph, I was going about 67-68mph.
 
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