I'm Balking--Bigtime--Over the Dealerships Price to Replace Filters

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Goose55

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Their oil, filter, and lube service combo special is very good for 12 qts of synthetic, $135 each when 2 are purchased. Incl safety inspection, tire rotation and pressure check

But check this gouging out....

Fuel filters $382.00
Air filter $91.23
Cabin ac filter $89.65

Huh?

I got a Mopar Cummins air filter on eBay for only $35
And a supply of very high quality cabin air filters for only $14 each!
Now, I have to study on how best to swap out the fuel filters so as not to make a mess, and insure the fuel pump gets primed before engine starting. Anyone know the best YouTube for that?
 
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chopperdog45

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And the price they quoted you is a lot worse than what they quoted me for fuel filters when they had my truck for a warranty job. They wanted $260 to replace both filters. I still did it myself.
 
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Goose55

Goose55

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And the price they quoted you is a lot worse than what they quoted me for fuel filters when they had my truck for a warranty job. They wanted $260 to replace both filters. I still did it myself.

No wonder the service writer was eager to schedule me. Crooks. Thieves. Scoundrels :-/
 

WY-Dave

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Yup for the fuel filters that was the price 5yrs ago now its something like $418. The dealership never touched my fuel filters.

DO NOT SKIMP on the fuel filters. I cross referenced the filters over to the Fleetgard (Cummins) and get them at the local semi shop. Last time though they were getting up there in price. Genos would have been about $20 cheaper even with shipping.
 
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Goose55

Goose55

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Yup for the fuel filters that was the price 5yrs ago now its something like $418. The dealership never touched my fuel filters.

DO NOT SKIMP on the fuel filters. I cross referenced the filters over to the Fleetgard (Cummins) and get them at the local semi shop. Last time though they were getting up there in price. Genos would have been about $20 cheaper even with shipping.

Thanks! I love Geno's Garage. 1st thing I did after buying my new 3500 was get their fuel and def locking caps.
 

stevenP

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I would really like to patronize my dealer with common filter replacement too. But like you they want stupid prices on the filters, then $200 for labor to replace the fuel filters. I also use only the OEM mopar filters, but can get them elsewhere so much cheaper its insane.
 
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Goose55

Goose55

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I would really like to patronize my dealer with common filter replacement too. But like you they want stupid prices on the filters, then $200 for labor to replace the fuel filters. I also use only the OEM mopar filters, but can get them elsewhere so much cheaper its insane.

I've become acquainted with the new GM at my Dealership, a decent fellow. Next time I see him I will candidly say that they need to "try again" when it comes to pricing filter changes. If they at all wish to retain service customers on these items.
 
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Goose55

Goose55

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As a FORMER diesel owner, I'll simply say that these exorbitant costs are part of what drove me back to gasoline.

Your comment is well received and taken. By me, at least. But, albeit my Ram 3500 is maybe kinda my last hurrah this side of Heaven (I hope). Loved muscle cars as a youth and now in later life, love muscle trucks. In order to keep affording mine, I will do these filter changes myself.
 

SniperDroid

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Your comment is well received and taken. By me, at least. But, albeit my Ram 3500 is maybe kinda my last hurrah this side of Heaven (I hope). Loved muscle cars as a youth and now in later life, love muscle trucks. In order to keep affording mine, I will do these filter changes myself.
Loved Muscle Cars? I started driving the 60's Muscle Cars. My first car as a senior was a '67 Cougar with a 289 , ported and polished by the WesTech High School auto shop. Tyranny with a full Race Rebuild by Transmissions by Bruce in Cleveland. Ran Thompson Drag Raceway in under 11 seconds. Gasoline is in my veins. Went DIESEL for Tow Power. Went back to gas for common sense. If you NEED Torque, you need Diesel! Everything else, Gasoline is fine. I still long for the old days of working on cars in shop class, tuning by ear, for more power. Man, improving machine. It was fun!
 
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Goose55

Goose55

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Loved Muscle Cars? I started driving the 60's Muscle Cars. My first car as a senior was a '67 Cougar with a 289 , ported and polished by the WesTech High School auto shop. Tyranny with a full Race Rebuild by Transmissions by Bruce in Cleveland. Ran Thompson Drag Raceway in under 11 seconds. Gasoline is in my veins. Went DIESEL for Tow Power. Went back to gas for common sense. If you NEED Torque, you need Diesel! Everything else, Gasoline is fine. I still long for the old days of working on cars in shop class, tuning by ear, for more power. Man, improving machine. It was fun!

My first muscle car, at the mere age of only 17 was nothing less than a 1968 Plymouth Roadrunner with a red, white & blue diamond flake Sox & Martin paint job. A 426 Hemi that guzzled and slurped Sunoco 260, w/ two four barrel 750 CFM Carter 4 barrel carbs, hook-er headers, oversized valves, with a reverse linkage, 3 speed automatic. 500 HP-- 90 mph between stop signs. Again, I was only 17. If memory serves me right, I had it for about a month, before T-boning it in the center grill, through a inebriated forgotten stop sign, head on into a very heathy birch tree. It was totaled. I was privy to LE info that the car became airborne at that stop sign T intersection, where brake marks vanished. :-/ I guess I am lucky I survived that. Did I learn anything? No. I later wrecked a 1969 AMC 390 C.I. AMX. Can you imagine how pissed my dad was by then??? I never heard the last of it. I enlisted in the USMC to get away from him! :-/

This is the Roadrunner I had cherished for those too few brief weeks, but this one was not mine. Nevertheless similar. Mine was with the same paint scheme, but without the lettering and graphics. I paid only $2,500 for this car in 1972 and now the engine alone is worth, what? $25,000? If only I had the sense and the means to garage this beast, how happy I would be. But, alas, I now DO verily love my 3500 Turbo Cummins dually! And, that is all good. Thank you, Lord of heaven & earth!

1685150373106.png
 
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GTyankee

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carbureted engines were easy to work on
but, everyone seems to want Fuel Injection, i could not make them work right.

Then came computers, i won't even try messing with electrons, etc.

out in my garage, i have a built 1968 327 Chevy long block, a M-21 aluminum 4 speed & a 350 transmission, both are ready to drop into something.
I just want a built Chevy frame from one of bigger named shops.
1950's body parts are still around, especially over in Arizona
 

REDinAZ

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Their oil, filter, and lube service combo special is very good for 12 qts of synthetic, $135 each when 2 are purchased. Incl safety inspection, tire rotation and pressure check

But check this gouging out....

Fuel filters $382.00
Air filter $91.23
Cabin ac filter $89.65

Huh?

I got a Mopar Cummins air filter on eBay for only $35
And a supply of very high quality cabin air filters for only $14 each!
Now, I have to study on how best to swap out the fuel filters so as not to make a mess, and insure the fuel pump gets primed before engine starting. Anyone know the best YouTube for that?
there's another 6.7 filter video on YouTube
 

Sherman Bird

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Their oil, filter, and lube service combo special is very good for 12 qts of synthetic, $135 each when 2 are purchased. Incl safety inspection, tire rotation and pressure check

But check this gouging out....

Fuel filters $382.00
Air filter $91.23
Cabin ac filter $89.65

Huh?

I got a Mopar Cummins air filter on eBay for only $35
And a supply of very high quality cabin air filters for only $14 each!
Now, I have to study on how best to swap out the fuel filters so as not to make a mess, and insure the fuel pump gets primed before engine starting. Anyone know the best YouTube for that?
My perspective on You Tube: I recently purchased a 2002 S/T Chevy Blazer. This fine specimen is equipped with the electric hatch glass release in the rear. The infamous plastic clip which connects the release motor to the latch was broken.

I looked at 7 videos on You Tube as to how to fix this problem. (How to unlatch the window to gain access to the release mechanism in the lower tailgate when the window won't open, thus preventing opening the tailgate!)

5 of the 7 had one breaking the plastic of the cover panel inside the tailgate so as to gain access enough to get a finger betwixt the panel and the glass in order to unlatch in. I thought: "Surely GM isn't THAT stupid in design"!

The other 2 had one measure to a specific point on the interior panel and drill a 3/4 inch hole through both the plastic panel AND the metal plate which must be removed to repair the problem.

Again, a permanent ugly hole and irreparable damage to the panel and the metal plate. Again, I thought GM could not be so stupid.

I had ordered an owner's manual for the vehicle, and inside it in the how to operate windows and such, was how to peel back the interior carpet inside the tailgate at the top edge just under the area of the release mechanism, and Lo and Behold! THERE it WAS!!! A small factory hole for inserting a small screwdriver to open the rear glass window hatch! Who'da thought?

In your case, a GOOD repair manual would be more prudent than some 3rd world country bumpkin showing you incorrect and/or destructive methods. Just my 2 cents' worth. Peace :)
 

REDinAZ

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My perspective on You Tube: I recently purchased a 2002 S/T Chevy Blazer. This fine specimen is equipped with the electric hatch glass release in the rear. The infamous plastic clip which connects the release motor to the latch was broken.

I looked at 7 videos on You Tube as to how to fix this problem. (How to unlatch the window to gain access to the release mechanism in the lower tailgate when the window won't open, thus preventing opening the tailgate!)

5 of the 7 had one breaking the plastic of the cover panel inside the tailgate so as to gain access enough to get a finger betwixt the panel and the glass in order to unlatch in. I thought: "Surely GM isn't THAT stupid in design"!

The other 2 had one measure to a specific point on the interior panel and drill a 3/4 inch hole through both the plastic panel AND the metal plate which must be removed to repair the problem.

Again, a permanent ugly hole and irreparable damage to the panel and the metal plate. Again, I thought GM could not be so stupid.

I had ordered an owner's manual for the vehicle, and inside it in the how to operate windows and such, was how to peel back the interior carpet inside the tailgate at the top edge just under the area of the release mechanism, and Lo and Behold! THERE it WAS!!! A small factory hole for inserting a small screwdriver to open the rear glass window hatch! Who'da thought?

In your case, a GOOD repair manual would be more prudent than some 3rd world country bumpkin showing you incorrect and/or destructive methods. Just my 2 cents' worth. Peace :)

My perspective on You Tube: I recently purchased a 2002 S/T Chevy Blazer. This fine specimen is equipped with the electric hatch glass release in the rear. The infamous plastic clip which connects the release motor to the latch was broken.

I looked at 7 videos on You Tube as to how to fix this problem. (How to unlatch the window to gain access to the release mechanism in the lower tailgate when the window won't open, thus preventing opening the tailgate!)

5 of the 7 had one breaking the plastic of the cover panel inside the tailgate so as to gain access enough to get a finger betwixt the panel and the glass in order to unlatch in. I thought: "Surely GM isn't THAT stupid in design"!

The other 2 had one measure to a specific point on the interior panel and drill a 3/4 inch hole through both the plastic panel AND the metal plate which must be removed to repair the problem.

Again, a permanent ugly hole and irreparable damage to the panel and the metal plate. Again, I thought GM could not be so stupid.

I had ordered an owner's manual for the vehicle, and inside it in the how to operate windows and such, was how to peel back the interior carpet inside the tailgate at the top edge just under the area of the release mechanism, and Lo and Behold! THERE it WAS!!! A small factory hole for inserting a small screwdriver to open the rear glass window hatch! Who'da thought?

In your case, a GOOD repair manual would be more prudent than some 3rd world country bumpkin showing you incorrect and/or destructive methods. Just my 2 cents' worth. Peace :)
yea, but completely indicting Youtube for NOT being an excellent source of DIY info? because it is. the VIEWER has to be intelligent enough to discern that sometimes the content watched is completely idiotic and NOT the right recommendation for their particular project. and if they aren't intelligent enough to figure that out, they're probably always destroying/ruining things anyway, even without Youtube's help. what I'm saying is ultimately the viewer has to be the screener of the content's quality, YouTube isn't doing it. just my 2 cents. :)

(one year I would have never attempted/replaced the rear glass window regulator motor in my BRONCO without some Youtube tech recommendations. that big regulator back there is incredibly DANGEROUS. and Youtube content clearly and visually prepared me for that serious hazard, maybe more so that a Chilton's guide could have ever done. Youtube can be a success :))
 

JC4041

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Doc's is running a Memorial Day sale, that's who I use for my '21.

 
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