Is this the correct Redline 5w30 to quiet the hemi?

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HEMIMANN

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I'd suggest going to 0W-30 Red Line in winter. That is what I plan to do. I changed from PUP 0W-40 to Red Line 5W-30 a month ago, and have not noticed any old started up ticking. It's been down into the 30's last month.

I spent a lot of time and spec reviews overthinking this, and each time it came back to Red Line 5W-30 as optimal lubricant. I'd made a hand chart with specs of Red Line vs. PUP, but it'd be near undecipherable to post a pi.
 

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One weight is better for protection, the other is better at flow (less drag) and cold performance. So I would revert to how the engine is working on it's current oil, I assume 0w40. Real dragsters like heavy oil, pro stock will do better on a thinner as every.0001 you can get can be the difference between and a win or loss. I would run 5w30 and do a uoa and see how the viscosity held up. People that do pro stock for a living, go way thinner, but then again they could give a 1/2 **** of the engine goes, they just want that .0001 shot at getting the light. If she is doing good on current oil, I would stay put with 5w30 redline, basically same flow, she may not like the thicker 5w40, it is likely she could actually feel the difference in the engine.

BTW, rick you got a wife that drags races, that is cool as hell. Next thing you will tell me is she never complains, then I will truly hate you.
 

Wild one

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One weight is better for protection, the other is better at flow (less drag) and cold performance. So I would revert to how the engine is working on it's current oil, I assume 0w40. Real dragsters like heavy oil, pro stock will do better on a thinner as every.0001 you can get can be the difference between and a win or loss. I would run 5w30 and do a uoa and see how the viscosity held up. People that do pro stock for a living, go way thinner, but then again they could give a 1/2 **** of the engine goes, they just want that .0001 shot at getting the light. If she is doing good on current oil, I would stay put with 5w30 redline, basically same flow, she may not like the thicker 5w40, it is likely she could actually feel the difference in the engine.

BTW, rick you got a wife that drags races, that is cool as hell. Next thing you will tell me is she never complains, then I will truly hate you.

She's pretty good at not complaining ,as long as i keep her car ahead of my truck Mike,if my truck beats her car,then she'll mumble about her car needing more mods lol:emotions133:.

Right now the car is on the dealer PUP 0W-40 oil changes with a bottle Lubeguard thrown into the crankcase after the dealer oil change.I've been making them put the white SRT filter on it,if i can get to the lube tech with-out getting in trouble,last change i couldn't get to the young guy,so it got the standard black filter,which i'll probably change to a Royal Purple filter,once i get into the local speed shop to grab one. Other then the dealer PUP 0W-40 is harder then hell to find in my area,i can find PUP 5W-30 easily,and i've even kicked the idea of running it after the last 2 dealer changes are up,and throwing a bottle of Lubeguard in with it.The car is quiet on start-up with the PUP and Lubeguard it's been getting,and has no discernable valve train noise.
 

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11.9 versus 10.3, redline is close to 2 full points thicker then PUP 5w30 and also is more stable, as in it will likely hold more of that viscosity in those uoa's. Running PUP 5w30 or other "regular" 5w30's would be more bold then I think I'd go in the 6.4. Due to epa goals many or most of the 5w30's went more to this low additive thin model. I don't know how much it really matters a couple points here or there, I guess it is what the user feels comfortable running, I bet 5w30 PUP will even feel like less drag then 5w30 redline, likely that would be noticeable.
 

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UPDATE:

I ran the 5w40 redline in my 6.4 about 5 months or so before my annual inspection I do on this truck every April.

The 5w40 ran well in my truck, but at annual I went to 0w40 redline.

In temps under say 50 degrees, could be 50-60 degrees on a cold engine, sitting overnight or for a few days, on the 5w, the oil pressure warning light would flash on for a few seconds each time I started it (and the engine fired). This was with a rp 20-820 filter, the bigger one and not the rp that is specified for my 6.4 (rp 10-48)

That was concerning for me so I went to the 0w and the rp 10-48 specified for the 6.4. On the 0w40, that does not happen, no oil light on after the engine fires, just like pup 0w40. There is no difference in engine noise 0w and 5w redline for me, both made the engine more quiet so I am pleased with the redline.

Whether the 20-820 had anything to do with it, I cannot say. I would venture to say probably not, but since i was buying another rp filter i didnt want to leave anything to chance. I believe it's due to the weight difference between the 5w and 0w redline, which burla would confirm is a notably heavier oil.

Yes, it's more costly, but I dont run many miles and based on all of @Burla research, (Thanks Sir) its worth it for me, personally.


I just wanted to share my observations for other 6.4 owners.

Have a good day.

That’s something I will keep an eye on. I haven’t noticed a low oil pressure light since putting the 5w40 in it. Doesn’t sit more than a night maybe two. I’ve got around 1000 miles on it so far. I am running a wix xp filter.


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GsRAM

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So 0w40 redline is an outlier from 0w40's as far as viscosity goes. It is very thick, almost the same as 5w40 redline. I believe the main difference bwteen the 5w40 reldine and the 0w40 redline is the level of vii's. The noack hints as this as well as cold pours number. In other words, you give something to get something, but in the case of 0w40 redline what you get is more temporary then the 5w40. The hot performance is what you give to gain cold performance, however that is not saying you do not have great hot performance because in fact you do, just not as "good" as 5w40 redline. So glad you like the 0s40 redline, the other option for the 6.4 is 5w30 redline which is much closer to the viscosity fca specs for that hemi. Either are a solid choice, and if it aint broke down fix it.


Thanks brother. Yes there must be some difference in thickness,,0w versus 5w as on the 0w my oil pressure light does not come on at all when starting cold, yet it did every time on the 5w, with no other changes other than going to the rp 10-48 which I dont believe had any contributory effect on that issue.

I also have similar hot oil pressure at idle, around 32 psi, same as the 0w40 pup. Whereas, the 5w was a few psi higher, full hot. (215 degrees engine temp)

Just my opinion though. Thanks agsin for all your contributions here.
 

Burla

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Thanks brother. Yes there must be some difference in thickness,,0w versus 5w as on the 0w my oil pressure light does not come on at all when starting cold, yet it did every time on the 5w, with no other changes other than going to the rp 10-48 which I dont believe had any contributory effect on that issue.

I also have similar hot oil pressure at idle, around 32 psi, same as the 0w40 pup. Whereas, the 5w was a few psi higher, full hot. (215 degrees engine temp)

Just my opinion though. Thanks agsin for all your contributions here.

There definitely is a difference in thickness, but that is when the oil is cold, when the oil is at operating temp the 0w40 and 5w40 redline oil is as close as it gets to being the same thickness. But when it is cold, depending on the temp, the difference in thickness can be huge.
 
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GsRAM

GsRAM

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There definitely is a difference in thickness, but that is when the oil is cold, when the oil is at operating temp the 0w40 and 5w40 redline oil is as close as it gets to being the same thickness. But when it is cold, depending on the temp, the difference in thickness can be huge.

Copy that, thanks
 

buckeyexx

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Just an update on the redline 5w40. Not sure if it has anything to do with the redline oil or not but I have had to add about a half quart so far since putting it in. It’s been 2k miles so far on the oil change and was on the upper full line when done. Checked today and was down on lower mark. Never had to add anything when running the Amsoil. So far I think it is great oil but something I need to keep an eye on. It does seem to be more quite at hot idle.


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20 Wyt Lytning

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Excellent read from a Mechanical Engineer, mechanical designer, and gear head. Very Interesting. What you think is good, might not be. https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

This is what I use in my 5.7 Hemi. OIL BRAND/TYPE: 5W30 Quaker State “Full Synthetic”, dexos 1 Gen 2, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP was added to the Wear Protection Ranking List. It is currently ranked number 1 out of 252 motor oils tested so far.
OIL FILTER TYPE: Ford Motorcraft # FL-820S It will fit on the 5.7 hemi. It says it won't, but I have one on mine and it works great!
 

HEMIMANN

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Just an update on the redline 5w40. Not sure if it has anything to do with the redline oil or not but I have had to add about a half quart so far since putting it in. It’s been 2k miles so far on the oil change and was on the upper full line when done. Checked today and was down on lower mark. Never had to add anything when running the Amsoil. So far I think it is great oil but something I need to keep an eye on. It does seem to be more quite at hot idle.


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Interesting....I just changed from PUP 0W-40 to RL 5W-30. I will have to keep an eye on consumption. I hadn't anticipated this, because the NOACK on RL 5W-30 is extremely low = 6. RL 5W-40 NOACK is also 6. It must use a very high quality (shear stable) VII additive. I don't understand why your engine is consuming RL but not Amsoil.
 

buckeyexx

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Interesting....I just changed from PUP 0W-40 to RL 5W-30. I will have to keep an eye on consumption. I hadn't anticipated this, because the NOACK on RL 5W-30 is extremely low = 6. RL 5W-40 NOACK is also 6. It must use a very high quality (shear stable) VII additive. I don't understand why your engine is consuming RL but not Amsoil.

I agree it doesn’t seem right. I’m going to keep an eye on it. I may be able to see it if I were at the end of the oil life but not 2k into it. I pulled my camper from Ohio to Florida and back and didn’t consume any with the Amsoil. Maybe just a freak deal but we will see. I really like the redline so hopefully all is well with it. It seems to keep the chatter down on start up.


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Captain Bart

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Switched from Mobil ! 5w-20 Full, to Reline 5W-20, used another NIB NAPA Gold filter, and now I have a pronounced lifter tick.......that wasn't noticeable before. I am tempted to change back to Mobil 1 immediately. Truck went was "quieted down" once warmed up, to a constant tick......
 

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Put some Lube Gard Bio tech 15 oz.in the oil because of the high moly it should quite down, give it some time to coat the valve train.
 

Sherman Bird

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Hey guys, good morning,

Is this the correct redline to quiet the hemi?


https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-15305-5W30-Motor/dp/B004BONVB6


If so, I'm going to try some in my 6.4. Its louder with the valvoline euro blend 0w40 I put in it last oil change.

I asked @Burla but didn't get a response so I'd like to make sure.

Also, what royal purple filter is recommended for the 6.4?

Thanks for your help. Have a good Thursday gents!
What are the credentials of these folks on this forum that their collective "wisdom" trumps the manufacturer recommendation such that these are the answers? Anecdotal at very best, these basement lab experiments with oils and "Uber" filters defy those which the factory specify. In a big-picture format, the hundreds of thousands of manufactured Hemi vehicles are very dependable and well engineered. The thin pie sliver of those whose owners seek problem solving unfortunately tend to fall into snake-oil remedies for their misfortune, and, when that fails, some scream "foul" and demand a recall or other factory recompense, which is iconoclastic in big corporate business models, who cater to share holders more intensely than consumers. One will never outrun planned obsolescence nor metallurgically designed long term fatigue failure engineered into everything from toasters to cars. I own an old fashioned coffee pot that percolates on my gas cooktop. When we had no power for 3 days here in Houston in February, engineering from my great grandparents' day enabled me to still warm up with fresh brewed coffee whilst my Keurig sat useless due to lack of electromotive force!! Several of my friends keep an old pre-computer era car for back up.

DOD (displacement on demand) change from v-8 to 4 cylinder is a very difficult and intricate answer to fulfill the gluttony for power demanded by the public for having their cake and eating it, too.

My wheezy 3.9L non overdrive truck is testament to "obsolescence" in todays speed and power greedy motorists who think 65 MPH is for chumps on Houston's highways where 80 MPH is just average. I feel like I'll be flattened whenever I drive it on these autobahns, so I no longer do, but it gets GREAT mileage.

I recommend (FWIW) that you put a genuine MOPAR filter on the engine, use the weight oil recommended, and go for the gusto. You will never fix an inherent engineering issue that plagues so few of the collective and is absent the majority of these engines.

As far as I'm concerned, only a different vehicle or replacement of the existing engine with a completely different unit will cure this problem once and for all, and that is a very capital intense remedy.
 
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GsRAM

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What are the credentials of these folks on this forum that their collective "wisdom" trumps the manufacturer recommendation such that these are the answers? Anecdotal at very best, these basement lab experiments with oils and "Uber" filters defy those which the factory specify. In a big-picture format, the hundreds of thousands of manufactured Hemi vehicles are very dependable and well engineered. The thin pie sliver of those whose owners seek problem solving unfortunately tend to fall into snake-oil remedies for their misfortune, and, when that fails, some scream "foul" and demand a recall or other factory recompense, which is iconoclastic in big corporate business models, who cater to share holders more intensely than consumers. One will never outrun planned obsolescence nor metallurgically designed long term fatigue failure engineered into everything from toasters to cars. I own an old fashioned coffee pot that percolates on my gas cooktop. When we had no power for 3 days here in Houston in February, engineering from my great grandparents' day enabled me to still warm up with fresh brewed coffee whilst my Keurig sat useless due to lack of electromotive force!! Several of my friends keep an old pre-computer era car for back up.

DOD (displacement on demand) change from v-8 to 4 cylinder is a very difficult and intricate answer to fulfill the gluttony for power demanded by the public for having their cake and eating it, too.

My wheezy 3.9L non overdrive truck is testament to "obsolescence" in todays speed and power greedy motorists who think 65 MPH is for chumps on Houston's highways where 80 MPH is just average. I feel like I'll be flattened whenever I drive it on these autobahns, so I no longer do, but it gets GREAT mileage.

I recommend (FWIW) that you put a genuine MOPAR filter on the engine, use the weight oil recommended, and go for the gusto. You will never fix an inherent engineering issue that plagues so few of the collective and is absent the majority of these engines.

As far as I'm concerned, only a different vehicle or replacement of the existing engine with a completely different unit will cure this problem once and for all, and that is a very capital intense remedy.

Thankfully America is still free and we can choose to maintain our vehicles as we see fit. @Burla has done extensive research on this matter, but it appears based on your response he's not qualified to offer such advice. I believe he'd take exception to your comments. I understand your position and will not argue against it. I simply, respectfully disagree and that's my choice.

To each their own Sir.
 

Burla

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If the manu was so great, we would NOT have so many guys running around this place looking for answers for the scourge hemi tick. There is a certain type of person who loves authority, people with roots of the English. The rest of us realize that authority is as fallible as mankind. itself, that is why we go full country.
 

Burla

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What are the credentials of these folks on this forum that their collective "wisdom" trumps the manufacturer recommendation such that these are the answers? Anecdotal at very best, these basement lab experiments with oils and "Uber" filters defy those which the factory specify. In a big-picture format, the hundreds of thousands of manufactured Hemi vehicles are very dependable and well engineered. The thin pie sliver of those whose owners seek problem solving unfortunately tend to fall into snake-oil remedies for their misfortune, and, when that fails, some scream "foul" and demand a recall or other factory recompense, which is iconoclastic in big corporate business models, who cater to share holders more intensely than consumers. One will never outrun planned obsolescence nor metallurgically designed long term fatigue failure engineered into everything from toasters to cars. I own an old fashioned coffee pot that percolates on my gas cooktop. When we had no power for 3 days here in Houston in February, engineering from my great grandparents' day enabled me to still warm up with fresh brewed coffee whilst my Keurig sat useless due to lack of electromotive force!! Several of my friends keep an old pre-computer era car for back up.

DOD (displacement on demand) change from v-8 to 4 cylinder is a very difficult and intricate answer to fulfill the gluttony for power demanded by the public for having their cake and eating it, too.

My wheezy 3.9L non overdrive truck is testament to "obsolescence" in todays speed and power greedy motorists who think 65 MPH is for chumps on Houston's highways where 80 MPH is just average. I feel like I'll be flattened whenever I drive it on these autobahns, so I no longer do, but it gets GREAT mileage.

I recommend (FWIW) that you put a genuine MOPAR filter on the engine, use the weight oil recommended, and go for the gusto. You will never fix an inherent engineering issue that plagues so few of the collective and is absent the majority of these engines.

As far as I'm concerned, only a different vehicle or replacement of the existing engine with a completely different unit will cure this problem once and for all, and that is a very capital intense remedy.
Did you see this thread? I left the votes PUBLIC, so you can follow up with any ram forum member on their cured ticking hemi's.

50 ram forum members tick was killed with redline.

24 ram forum members it helped quiet the tick partially

9 votes it did not help hemi tick.

So your "Recommendation" per your words is to use an oil that makes someone truck tick??? I'm sorry dude, what kind of recommendation is that? This thread was created after 5 years of keeping track at another group that also showed an 80% success rate, it was worded different in those days, we didnt have third option of partially. This has helped untold numbers of people here, how is this a threat to your sensibilities? My recommendation if credibility is a thought worthy of chasing, when you find your self swimming in a tide, swim with that tide and not against it.
 

HEMIMANN

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The purpose of this Forum is for Ram owners to share experience and help each other maximize their ownership value, in addition to some camaraderie. This has been the best Forum on the interweb for me.

Those with other motives are free to leave and go elsewhere where haters and one-upmanship rules.
 

Sherman Bird

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Thankfully America is still free and we can choose to maintain our vehicles as we see fit. @Burla has done extensive research on this matter, but it appears based on your response he's not qualified to offer such advice. I believe he'd take exception to your comments. I understand your position and will not argue against it. I simply, respectfully disagree and that's my choice.

To each their own Sir.
Burla is a very well articulated man.... I'll stipulate to that. My post is for the folks who can know the difference among anecdotal, correlative, and causation proof and is in no way designed to usurp heroic research by members here. When these few dozen folks report that they switched to any manner of oil brand and/or filter to cure an internal hardware issue that plagues a very small percentage of overall production, I respect their right to do just that. I also am keenly aware of lesser forms of "proof" such as an anecdote of how Grampa used Amalie motor oil and went 2 gazillion miles on his old Hupmobile. I see the unspoken insinuation that others should follow suit due to an N factor of 1 for anything such as motor oil, medications, treatments for illness, et. al.

I concede your disagreement and do not attempt to deny you or anyone else that right. I merely address the gorilla in the room. That lesser form of so-called proof coupled with no long term, controlled field tests in the laypeople realm. This would be exhaustive and cross brand testing of thousands of vehicles in a vast array of conditions.

As the liberal man said "To each his own" as he kissed a pig! Cheers and Peace!
 
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