JBA long tubes any mounting problems?

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Wild one

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Put the dipstick back in before you put any bolts in the drivers side header,then man handle the header into place,and tweak the tube to clear everything.You'll never get the dipstick back in the hole if you have the header bolted up. Lots of guys will disagree with me,but i'd recommend wrapping the headers even if you have them ceramic coated. It'll keep your knock sensors a lot happier. Remflex makes a header and collector gasket that I think is even better then the OEM gaskets,it's a composite gasket that requires no re-torqueing. If you go with the OEM gaskets,you want the 6.1 gaskets. Don't waste your money on Stage 8 fasteners,you can't get all the locking tabs on anyways,and the tabs have a tendenancy to rattle,which can also screw with your knock sensors.Plus if you ever have to remove the headers you'll curse the sum-***** that sold you the stage 8's,lol. The bolts that come with the headers are perfectly fine. Is your truck a 4X4?
 

VB712

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I love my ARH long tubes. Just have to get used to hearing the engine/valve train noise which can be mistaken for an exhaust leak because of the thin wall stainless tubes.
Anyone else with long tubes agree with the sound change ?
 

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Anyone else with long tubes agree with the sound change ?
I completely forgot about it, but it is a common thing. It's noticeable when cruising at low speeds with light acceleration, especially if you are cruising along a strip mall full of windows or a wall of road barriers for the sound to reverberate off of
 
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Put the dipstick back in before you put any bolts in the drivers side header,then man handle the header into place,and tweak the tube to clear everything.You'll never get the dipstick back in the hole if you have the header bolted up. Lots of guys will disagree with me,but i'd recommend wrapping the headers even if you have them ceramic coated. It'll keep your knock sensors a lot happier. Remflex makes a header and collector gasket that I think is even better then the OEM gaskets,it's a composite gasket that requires no re-torqueing. If you go with the OEM gaskets,you want the 6.1 gaskets. Don't waste your money on Stage 8 fasteners,you can't get all the locking tabs on anyways,and the tabs have a tendenancy to rattle,which can also screw with your knock sensors.Plus if you ever have to remove the headers you'll curse the sum-***** that sold you the stage 8's,lol. The bolts that come with the headers are perfectly fine. Is your truck a 4X4?

Thanks for the write up. Yes my truck is 4x4
 

Wild one

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Thanks for the write up. Yes my truck is 4x4

The headers are a lot easier to install,if you drop the front diff out. You can work around the diff,but after having mine on and off a few times,i find it easier to just drop the diff out of the way,especially if you're doing it on a driveway using jackstands. The diff is easy to drop out after you've taken the drivers side manifold off. It's one of those things that's 6 of 1 or 1/2 dozen of the other,but having the diff out makes putting the bottom row of bolts in a lot easier.Pull the inner fender liners and front tires off,and disconnect the steering shaft from the coupler. Gear wrenches are a life saver if you have them,as you can't get a socket on a lot of the header bolts
 
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The headers are a lot easier to install,if you drop the front diff out. You can work around the diff,but after having mine on and off a few times,i find it easier to just drop the diff out of the way,especially if you're doing it on a driveway using jackstands. The diff is easy to drop out after you've taken the drivers side manifold off. It's one of those things that's 6 of 1 or 1/2 dozen of the other,but having the diff out makes putting the bottom row of bolts in a lot easier.Pull the inner fender liners and front tires off,and disconnect the steering shaft from the coupler. Gear wrenches are a life saver if you have them,as you can't get a socket on a lot of the header bolts

Thanks for the info. Sounds like its a lot easier to deop the diff. Did you use the supplied manifold bolts that cane with the headers? Use new stick gaskets?
 

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JBA only offers their 304 headers in the 1 7/8", and even those are now discontinued due to the fact that they were very slow sellers. If you can swing the ARH headers, I would consider going that route instead. JBA only gives you 2 o2 extensions, so you will need to purchase at least 1 more of those. Their gaskets are paper, so you want to grab a set of Remflex or OEM gaskets instead. The JBA clamps are U bolt style clamps which crimp the pipe, so I'd also consider switching to a 3" band style clamp. They also use a 3 bolt triangle flange on the back of the header collector with paper gaskets that also need replaced with a copper style gasket.

Long story short, the JBA longtubes are not a bad header once you get them on the truck, but there are a handful of pieces that I would switch out before installing them on the truck. Adding the coating is another good option since they are only a 409 stainless.
 

Jwithing

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The headers are a lot easier to install,if you drop the front diff out. You can work around the diff,but after having mine on and off a few times,i find it easier to just drop the diff out of the way,especially if you're doing it on a driveway using jackstands. The diff is easy to drop out after you've taken the drivers side manifold off. It's one of those things that's 6 of 1 or 1/2 dozen of the other,but having the diff out makes putting the bottom row of bolts in a lot easier.Pull the inner fender liners and front tires off,and disconnect the steering shaft from the coupler. Gear wrenches are a life saver if you have them,as you can't get a socket on a lot of the header bolts
Dropping the diff would definitely make it easier too if you happen to need to drop the oil pan... Lol
 
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JBA only offers their 304 headers in the 1 7/8", and even those are now discontinued due to the fact that they were very slow sellers. If you can swing the ARH headers, I would consider going that route instead. JBA only gives you 2 o2 extensions, so you will need to purchase at least 1 more of those. Their gaskets are paper, so you want to grab a set of Remflex or OEM gaskets instead. The JBA clamps are U bolt style clamps which crimp the pipe, so I'd also consider switching to a 3" band style clamp. They also use a 3 bolt triangle flange on the back of the header collector with paper gaskets that also need replaced with a copper style gasket.

Long story short, the JBA longtubes are not a bad header once you get them on the truck, but there are a handful of pieces that I would switch out before installing them on the truck. Adding the coating is another good option since they are only a 409 stainless.

Thanks for the info matt.
 
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