just bought 2019 , need oil strategy

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Magnum Valiant

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Don't know if this helps or not, but this is my experience. 2015 5.7, around 50,000 mi at the time. PUP 5w30, change annually or 7500 mi. 64,000 on truck now.
Had ticking episode. Not more than a minute, because I shut off engine. Few days later, started it again and still ticking. Shut off again. Changed oil and replaced Purolator oil filter with WIX. Started engine and no tick.
Regret not changing just the filter before changing oil to see what happened, but I didn't. Regardless, never used Purolator oil filter again, only WIX and never had tick again.
 

MontanaHandyman

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Agreed….oil change frequency is more important than the brand or weight of the oil. The owners manual says not to go over 10,000 miles between changes. When I read that I assumed that they want to sell replace engines. It may be overkill but at 3,500 miles I start looking for a warm day to git ‘r done.
I'm with ya...too soon than too late!
 

farout75

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I just bought a 2019 with about 8ok mi. I am wanting a synthetic oil strategy. The vehicle is one owner, seems to have been used mostly for a traveling related job. Put consistent mileage each month. Timer suggests average speed of about 40MPH. and idle hours less than 100. That is about 4%. Truck is a bit noisy on startup but quiets down after a minute or two. So obviously there is no residual lubrication effect for a cold engine. Now over 80ks mileage, should I be going to 5w30? or using something , like additive , that can bond to surfaces.(moly?)

I have read all sorts of things about quieting tick, however, I just want good cold start protection plus more assured protection for lifters as we are getting up there in mileage. Should I be using something that should clean the lifters, Or perhaps a high mileage oil. I noted that noted that many people in the forum use the RP 820 larger filter but not RP oil. I was looking at high mileage oils and I like how RP sounded. they do mention added zinc and phosphorus also. I would like to use lube guard as well for the moly. But I know a lot of oils have moly in it. Am I ready for redline without tick? as a preventative? I think amsoil is probably a really good oil. But do not think it has the detergents and solvents that I would like to use to make sure lifters are properly clean before addressing good lubrication moving forward. I do not hear too many people using additives, a couple like seafoam. and I have seen some use MMO. I havent use that in more than 40 years, and not sure if that is the additive to use here on these trucks.

So my thoughts of now are using RP high mileage for its cleaning, and adding lube guard for its moly and cold start protection. Or using penzoil ultimate high mileage which already seems to have a lot of added moly? doesnt seem to do any zinc.
I suggest using the oil weight stated on your oil filler cap. I've used the Pennzoil full systemic on 4 ram 1500's and have not had any engine problems at all. I think the factory knows best when it comes to oil. Why buy expensive oil when its a waste of $, your engine won't last one mile longer with high $ oil. Besides drain it everuy5 to 6 thousand miles and you engine will run a very long time.
 

JHoward

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Don't know if this helps or not, but this is my experience. 2015 5.7, around 50,000 mi at the time. PUP 5w30, change annually or 7500 mi. 64,000 on truck now.
Had ticking episode. Not more than a minute, because I shut off engine. Few days later, started it again and still ticking. Shut off again. Changed oil and replaced Purolator oil filter with WIX. Started engine and no tick.
Regret not changing just the filter before changing oil to see what happened, but I didn't. Regardless, never used Purolator oil filter again, only WIX and never had tick again.


Interesting ... I am currently using a Purolator Boss oil filter on my HEMI ... no ticky tocky or dry starts and the engine runs quiet and smooth.

I purchased an Royal Purple 20-820 for the next upcoming oil change to see if it prevents dry start up, etc.

Someone made note somewhere here in the forum that these HEMI's are a finicky engine and each is different in what oil and filter combo does the trick ... js.

JHoward
 
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kayjo

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Yep, sounds like the lubrication choke point on some of cold startup noise may be the filter. I just ordered the RP 20-820 and I will update the thread with the results.

So , we have covered the oils, the frequency, filters. etc.

Just one more thing to hash out. I have heard in the forum , people stating to over fill the crank case by 1/2 quart. Is this advisable? What is the theory behind this? My thought over-filling the crank case leads to poor exhausting of gasses, which can have a harmful effect on the whole engine.
 
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duaneprouty1

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I just bought a 2019 with about 8ok mi. I am wanting a synthetic oil strategy. The vehicle is one owner, seems to have been used mostly for a traveling related job. Put consistent mileage each month. Timer suggests average speed of about 40MPH. and idle hours less than 100. That is about 4%. Truck is a bit noisy on startup but quiets down after a minute or two. So obviously there is no residual lubrication effect for a cold engine. Now over 80ks mileage, should I be going to 5w30? or using something , like additive , that can bond to surfaces.(moly?)

I have read all sorts of things about quieting tick, however, I just want good cold start protection plus more assured protection for lifters as we are getting up there in mileage. Should I be using something that should clean the lifters, Or perhaps a high mileage oil. I noted that noted that many people in the forum use the RP 820 larger filter but not RP oil. I was looking at high mileage oils and I like how RP sounded. they do mention added zinc and phosphorus also. I would like to use lube guard as well for the moly. But I know a lot of oils have moly in it. Am I ready for redline without tick? as a preventative? I think amsoil is probably a really good oil. But do not think it has the detergents and solvents that I would like to use to make sure lifters are properly clean before addressing good lubrication moving forward. I do not hear too many people using additives, a couple like seafoam. and I have seen some use MMO. I havent use that in more than 40 years, and not sure if that is the additive to use here on these trucks.

So my thoughts of now are using RP high mileage for its cleaning, and adding lube guard for its moly and cold start protection. Or using penzoil ultimate high mileage which already seems to have a lot of added moly? doesnt seem to do any zinc.
 

duaneprouty1

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Amsoil is By far the best on the market, signature serious, 5w-20 with wix xp oil filter.
 

Dusty

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I must be missing something here about the filter! Royal Purple website shows a 10-48 being the right filter for the 5.7. So, what is the deal with the 20-820? And when I go to Amazon, and put in RP 20-820, it says it does not fit the 5.7.
Thanks...
I'm not familiar with the Redline filters, but this might help with the confusion.

Up to and including early 2014, the standard from the factory was the MO-899 oil filter for 5.7s. Sometime mid-year they began shipping 5.7s with the MO-339 oil filter which is much smaller. I'm guessing this is reflected in the Redline catalog as the two different numbers being discussed. The MO-899 has considerably more capacity, which is why it is still currently used on 2500s and up.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 03 June 2018. Now at: 066511 miles.
 

Gregory McKinley

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Have been running Mobil 1 extended performance 5w-20. No problems here at all. Been pulling a large camper. Made several road trips. Have no complaints at all.
 

Snoopy

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I wish yall the best! But its inevitable. You will be faced with camshaft/lifter failure.
 
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kayjo

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If you gamble long enough , you always go broke. I bet at some point the cam and lifters will fail. 150k? 220? 300? 500?

I bet if had the vehicle from new , id keep it going till 200 plus. I can only bet on that by my experience with other vehicles. I know how hard people work these trucks. If they were junk, they would be worth zero. I see book value and resale value pretty strong. if they all needed 10k engines that would be reflected in the price. But what I do know , is the rams and hemi's are a lot less to repair than ford or chevy.

I suspect there are some issues. But I my guess is you could run a vehicle quite a bit of miles even with warn cam and lifters without catastrophic engine failure in most cases. So, if you are 200k and it runs but not perfect. some misses and some valves not closing and opening completely is not a big deal for a lot of folks.

I have a pretty clean 2019 with less than 100 idle hours on it. When shopping i was looking at a fleet vehicle with 30k miles but it had 509 idle hours on it. So you can do the homework on that.

I am going to pretend my truck has 25k on it and has tons of life left. I think its well broken in, but not broken But I wil spend no expense on oil and change frequency. I am going to do this every 3k like when i was kid. with my first car and then my head gasket blew in a hard freeze. Ford (302) because i had lived in FL and didnt winterize my car. Mechanic said engine looked like brand new at 87K and even asked how often I changed the oil because he never saw an engine in his life with this mileage with so little wear. I bought the car used from a mechanic with aboutr 48k on it. I used 10-40 oil and stp. I was slugging sludge. This thin oil they use today actually is really against all i know about protection. But I used dump 1040 stp motor honey, and a bit MMO. never worried about the engine. It was always emissions and other ******** that was a problem

I figure worse case scenario it will need a rebuild at some point. I figure the rest of truck is worth it. and that Its not a hard truck to work on.
 

Govtman

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It is a bigger filter, therefore it shows that it doesn't fit. It does fit. Many have used it. Myself included. I have one on my 6.4, and have one on my wife's durango with the 5.7...fits just fine on both.
It fits but you have to come in to it from the front underneath. There is like a cooridor from the radiator back to the filter the MO-899 size filters can be utilized. I always have start up noise using Mopar filters.

Running K&N right now.

I started using the smaller filter which I change every 5k. Oil every 10k.

The Colorado I had I ran Mobile 1 or NAPA synthetic. I ran 5k and change filter/ top off, run 5k/change filter/top off, run 5k...change filter and all 6 qts.
For 15k I was using 8 qts synthetic and 3 filters. I sold the truck with 347k miles...engine running strong, no smoking or oil consumption. Friend drove it a few months and sold it to his uncle who now drives it. Probably around 400k by now.
 
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kayjo

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Do you preload the larger RP filter with oil, it seems a bit of an issue as you have to really squeeze it in to position. Though, id think yu only need to preload to saturate some of filter media, not overflowing.

I am going to add some lubegard to my oil trying to get to about 250ppm. How many ppm do you think we need of Moly, I think redline is about 450+ , youd have to use an oil higher than 150 to get to 250ish. Most API certified oil is in the 60s - 70s. Unfortunately I stocked up on some penz UP when amazon had it about 21 per 5 qts. Cant really build that to 250 with lube guard unless you use a quart, any thoughts on this. it is on thinner side. I only regret not going to 5-30 weight, with the penz now. especially considering the higher mileage.

What are thoughts on mixing 20- and 30 weight oils. My understanding is that though they are technically compatible, they do not mix in solution due to molecular size. So they are basically 2 different weights floating around in the system. ?
 

gt8684

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I always pour a little oil in the filter to just pre-wet the material, but the big thing is to press the gas pedal all the way to the floor before trying to start, this will cause the starter to spin the motor but no spark, let it spin over for a few seconds then let off and start, that will help build of pressure and fill the filter.
 

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