Just bought a 98 1500 4x4

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DRTDEVL

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Ram Year
1980
Engine
360
Club cab, short bed, 5.2 (IIRC, could have been 5.8 but I was in a rush to beat everyone to it), automatic, 220,000 miles.

CA truck in the midwest rust belt, never seen snow or winter driving. The guy never engaged 4WD, and is unsure when it was last used. The truck sat for the past 8 months. The underside of this thing was pristine!

What it needs:

When driving hard, it will stick in a gear, then find extra neutrals. If driven easy, it shifts perfectly. Could this be as simple as the pressure solenoid and speed sensor in trans, along with band adjustment?

Dash lights, marker lights, and tail lights don't work. I think its corrosion on the back side of the BCM. Clean up / solder the contacts for the relay, and it will work again.

Battery draw / radio doesn't work. Are these the same problems? IIRC, that era Chrysler stereos had diodes that would go bad and kill the battery. If not, that's a simple trace for a bad module and replacement. The battery dies aftr sitting 3 days (new alt. and battery).

4WD doesn't engage. Duh, its a 98. I bet the vacuum actuator on the axle is shot.

CEL on. I was a ******* and was in too much of a hurry to get out the door this morning in order to be the first one to look at the truck; I forgot to bring my scanner with me. I'll bring it this afternoon when I pick the truck up to bring it home. Probably simple, like O2 sensor or transmission pressure code (see above). There's nothing too complex about these old 5.2 Magnums.

Dash cup holder ripped out, lower steering column cover missing. The truck was stolen 2 years ago in CA and taken for a joy ride. This also is how the bumpers were bent, and the right headlight is taking on water.

Needs tires / no spare. I'll put on some good severe winter rated all-terrains next month and scour the J/Ys for a used wheel/tire for the spare. The spare was likely stolen during the joy ride.

One wheel stud broken. Too easy to fix.

Headliner falling. No ****? On a 98?

Dash cracked a bit. Not bad at all for this era; I was pleasantly surprised to see it intact.

I won't get into pricing, but I think I stole it at under $2k.

Any advice on the issues I listed?
 

DodgeTx

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Location
SEGUIN
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L Cummins, 5.2l v8
congrats! They are good trucks and will last forever, 8th vin digit if Y is 5.2l if Z if a 5.9l v8.

Check fuses first before soldering things, Bad grounds etc. Common on these trucks is license plate lights grounding somewhere and bad trailer connections.
Radio run a new power wire from fuse if it has power, or pick somewhere else.

Posilok is your friend and fairly affordable.

Odds are if lights and other things not working obd2 port wouldnt show codes either, but putup some pics when you get it home!

Oh and welcome to the 2nd gen ram forum!
 
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DRTDEVL

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As it turns out, there are corroded fuse contacts. Jiggling the main 40a battery part fuse fixed most of the problems... then the turn signals went out. Tapping the interior fuse box brought them back to life. Is amazing how much better things run when they have the proper power supplied.

Today, I will be pulling all the fuses, cleaning all the contacts, bending tabs tighter, and replacing. I think this will fix a vast majority of the issues.

And good news... it's the 5.9!

I also noticed a code for the O2 sensor... and the forward sensor is mostly missing. LOL. That's the check engine light.
 
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DRTDEVL

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UPDATE: I cleaned all the fuses and relays, as most were showing sign of corrosion, and I put dielectric grease on the contacts. I also replaced the battery terminals, put a 4 ga battery to body ground wire in (the stock one looked pretty pathetic... 14 ga?), and found out the other fuse problem. Sometime in the past, the main 30a ignition fuse broke/blew. The 50a battery fuse was moved into its spot, and they were swapped. This fuse was making intermittent contact. A new 30a in the ignition spot and the 50a back where it belonged, and everything electrical seems ok now.

I also cleaned the gunked up throttle body and drew a vacuum and charged the AC, so now the truck fires off strong every time and the A/C will freeze you out of there.

As for the transmission... After doing all of this, the transmission refused to shift out of first gear. I went back and adjusted the TV cable (it was fine) and fixed the return spring (it was hooked to the wrong place). Next drive? it shifted perfectly. Well, close enough to perfect. It hangs in second a bit longer than it should on deceleration, and it seems to not be locking the tc fully. I
am going to order a pressure governor and internal speed sensor. As for the hangup in first and refusal to shift? Research tells me that the speed sensor on the top of the transmission will cause this intermittent condition if the plug is faulty. When I replace the O2 sensors tomorrow, I'll clean that one and hit it with dielectric grease, too. I'll also inspect the entire wiring harness to the transmission to see if anything is rubbing and grounding out.

After that, an oil change, diff oil replacement front and rear, and lube the chassis. I also need to find out what is causing the metallic "singing" under the hood at various rpms... I suspect an idler pulley or accessory pulley bearing may be heading south.

I can't wait to get to a baseline of 100% operation so I can begin to fix her up right... exhaust, tune, HID lighting, maybe a small-ish amp and sub under the seat. This truck has so much potential, I am happy to have rescued it from a guy who didn't know what he was doing.
 
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DRTDEVL

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I'm still waiting for my parts from Oregon Performance Transmission, but I got the confirmation today. The truck began starting in second gear every time on my way home from work. I left an hour later to get gas for the mower, and the CEL came on. Pulled codes - P1757 (Governor Pressure Low) and P0740 (TCC Circuit Open).

I'm about 99% sure the kit I ordered will fix it: "46re 47re 48re Solenoid Upgrade Kit Dual Pack Solenoids Governor Pressure Speed Sensor Electronics" which includes the following items:

Rostra dual pack solenoid – 3-4 and lockup
HD 50185 Borg Warner governor pressure solenoid
Rostra governor pressure sensor - transducer temperature sensor
Output speed sensor
Sonnax updated 3-4 accumulator spring
Governor pressure solenoid body gasket

We'll find out next week, as the parts aren't due in until Friday, and I work all weekend.
 
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DRTDEVL

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I replaced everything in the trans, fired it up and drove. Everything was beautiful, EXCEPT no TCC lockup.

I took it to a specialist in the area to confirm my suspicion. They adjusted everything again, and sent me on my way. No change.

It's now waiting for an RV converter to come in (thicker linings, lower stall, more application pressure). Once here, it gets that, flushed cooler and lines, removal of the check ball, replacement of the leaky input seal on the pump and pump gasket, and general once-over while out. I'm also going to source an engine oil pan for replacement while the trans is out of the way (huge dent in it), they will replace that while its in the air for 1 hr labor.

Shop techs were doubtful of my torque converter diagnosis... owner agreed that the stock converters were total crap in these trucks, and he refuses to even put stock converters back in them when they come in with issues.
 
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DRTDEVL

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And its fixed!

Now off to let the state rob me blind. May it please the king that I drive the vehicle I purchased on the roads?
 
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