Kicker Key 180.4 Amp install

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Bigs99

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Component speakers installed, messed around with the gain, tuned again , and it's sounding pretty good now!
 

chrisbh17

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Component speakers installed, messed around with the gain, tuned again , and it's sounding pretty good now!

is it possible that some of the previous speakers being 3-way was an issue?
 

Bigs99

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is it possible that some of the previous speakers being 3-way was an issue?

Possibly, when I called kicker and told them of the issue, the first thing they asked was what speakers I was running. When I told them 3 ways in the doors and 3.5 coaxials in the dash , they said that was the issue
 

89grand

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Possibly, when I called kicker and told them of the issue, the first thing they asked was what speakers I was running. When I told them 3 ways in the doors and 3.5 coaxials in the dash , they said that was the issue

Even if they said it would, it wouldn't cause any issues. Maybe the person you talked to just answers phones and gives canned responses like that. Granted, there is no need for a 3 way door speaker with dash speakers, but the Key sets a crossover point of 320hz on the dash, and 640hz on the doors, so everything about 640hz would have been filtered out anyway, so a woofer, a 2 way or 3 way is still going to have the same crossover point. Even if you clipped the wires going to the tweeters on the 3 way to disable them, it wouldn't have sounded any different.

With component speakers it sets the crossover on the woofer and tweeter at 3200hz.
 

Graygoose

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Tuning the components is easier as its trying to read each speakers freq. response. But I think overall, you will sound better with just components.
When our new "snowman" comes out, I want to try a set on my Jeep GC.
 

chrisbh17

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Tuning the components is easier as its trying to read each speakers freq. response. But I think overall, you will sound better with just components.
When our new "snowman" comes out, I want to try a set on my Jeep GC.

:popcorn:
 

chrisbh17

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Nice!

The best setup Ive ever had was a set of components with the tweeter and woofer mounted within a few inches of each other. The tweeter was "lower" on the door than I was used to, but since it was so close to the woofer the frequencies "showed up" at the same time. I just countered it being farther away with more amp.

In my RAM, not sure yet. I dont want to go really custom, so Ill probably get speakers that fit in stock spots and a Key amp. Or maybe a component set and 3d print a small "pod" for the tweeter to mount on the door panel (without drilling, hopefully)
 

gnossdrawkcab

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Hi guys this thread/forum is incredibly helpful. Thanks for explaining everything.

I'm about to install a Key 200.4 in bi-amp mode and I have a few questions.

1. My dash speakers are 47KSC3504 and I put a 4ohm resistor in line with the positive terminal per instructions elsewhere in the forum. Do I still need this resistor with the key 200.4?

2. The 47KSC3504 dash speakers also have an inline crossover, I believe bass blocker. Should I remove this before running the key 200.4 setup?

3. I plan to run new wire for the dash speakers but I'm not sure what to do for the front speakers. Can I simply splice into the factory harness at the back of the head unit? Or should I connect at the ANC under the drivers seat? I have a netaudio bypass on the way with the amplifier addition provision. Although I'm not sure I need that after reading these posts...

Thanks for the help.
 

Graygoose

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1) no, if you run them off front two channels of amp
2) install as is
3) as long as doors run to rear channels only, your good. New or OEM
 
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