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hodge-xj

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Front end should come down a little in height after alignment as well. Take some measurements. I'm curious!!!

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Kyle McWilliams

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I think it did come down a bit with alignment. Looks like i have the rake i was expecting to have now.

20190719_120627.jpg

This is my before and after alignment numbers. You would be surprised just how goofy +1.5/+1.0 camber in front looked to the naked eye. After suspension install/before alignment it had a good WHOMP WHOMP WHOMP sound when driving too, which i imagine was probably caused by that gnarly toe spec it had haha.

I just handed them @ram1500rsm alignment spec and gave them his instructions. Aiming for -0.2 camber, +5 castor (the tech told me you have to have at least 0.5* of difference between the two castors for some reason unknown to me), and just told them "fix the toe". The higher than normal castor seems to have given me a little more room for 35s.

20190719_132945.jpg

20190719_133059.jpg

Driver side is like 2 fingers, passenger is 3. Keep in mind the driver measurement i was holding the wheel all the way to lock, the passenger one i turned to lock and let it go so it snaps back a bit. These are my oem wheels with oem size tires, with the 1.5" spacers on for an offset of -19.

Next to-do is building some kind of roost guards for those icons out back. The oem shocks have the shock body down and a plastic cover on the top rod portion. The shock bodys were sandblasted to hell and that is right where the icons precious downward facing rods are.

I was going to use the dust boot cutoffs from the bilstien install in front but i need about 8" long guards and they are only 5" unfortunately. Ill post a picture of those for people who dont have the bilstiens. Its a perfect thick/firm rubber material that would be great to cut in half and ziptie at the shock body, hanging down in front of the rods.

My next option is that i have a broken rear wheel well liner which is hard but flexible plastic material. If i cut rectangles of that out in the dimensions i need and add a strip of trim tape where it will contact the shock body and ziptie around the outside i think it should work.

20190719_141231.jpg
 

ram1500rsm

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I think it did come down a bit with alignment. Looks like i have the rake i was expecting to have now.

View attachment 173868

This is my before and after alignment numbers. You would be surprised just how goofy +1.5/+1.0 camber in front looked to the naked eye. After suspension install/before alignment it had a good WHOMP WHOMP WHOMP sound when driving too, which i imagine was probably caused by that gnarly toe spec it had haha.

I just handed them @ram1500rsm alignment spec and gave them his instructions. Aiming for -0.2 camber, +5 castor (the tech told me you have to have at least 0.5* of difference between the two castors for some reason unknown to me), and just told them "fix the toe". The higher than normal castor seems to have given me a little more room for 35s.

View attachment 173873

View attachment 173872

Driver side is like 2 fingers, passenger is 3. Keep in mind the driver measurement i was holding the wheel all the way to lock, the passenger one i turned to lock and let it go so it snaps back a bit. These are my oem wheels with oem size tires, with the 1.5" spacers on for an offset of -19.

Next to-do is building some kind of roost guards for those icons out back. The oem shocks have the shock body down and a plastic cover on the top rod portion. The shock bodys were sandblasted to hell and that is right where the icons precious downward facing rods are.

I was going to use the dust boot cutoffs from the bilstien install in front but i need about 8" long guards and they are only 5" unfortunately. Ill post a picture of those for people who dont have the bilstiens. Its a perfect thick/firm rubber material that would be great to cut in half and ziptie at the shock body, hanging down in front of the rods.

My next option is that i have a broken rear wheel well liner which is hard but flexible plastic material. If i cut rectangles of that out in the dimensions i need and add a strip of trim tape where it will contact the shock body and ziptie around the outside i think it should work.

View attachment 173874

It's crazy how much room 1" caster creates in the front of this trucks. Mine rubbed with 3.5*, and 5* keeps 315/35 happy away from the fenders, same lift, same tires.
 
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Kyle McWilliams

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It's crazy how much room 1" caster creates in the front of this trucks. Mine rubbed with 3.5*, and 5* keeps 315/35 happy away from the fenders, same lift, same tires.

What is your wheel/tire size exactly?

Im stuck between ordering a 0 offset or -12 offset wheel. I gotta remember that a 12.5" wide tire is gonna poke 21mm more than my stock set.

The 0 offsets i can get in our hub bore so i dont need to buy hub rings.
 

ram1500rsm

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What is your wheel/tire size exactly?

Im stuck between ordering a 0 offset or -12 offset wheel. I gotta remember that a 12.5" wide tire is gonna poke 21mm more than my stock set.

The 0 offsets i can get in our hub bore so i dont need to buy hub rings.
mine are 17x9 -12 offset
 
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Kyle McWilliams

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mine are 17x9 -12 offset

Trying to use the custom offset gallery but people are ducking horrendous at submitting their setups and theres so much misinformation.

Would you have preferred 0 offset in hindsight?
 

ram1500rsm

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Trying to use the custom offset gallery but people are ducking horrendous at submitting their setups and theres so much misinformation.

Would you have preferred 0 offset in hindsight?
That would have been 5" backspace on the same 17x9 wheels.
I prefer the look of 4.5" backspace cause i could even fit 37x12.5 without having to worry about wheel spacers and rubbing the UCA's, but i think they look good either way.
 
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Kyle McWilliams

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Hmm, now you got me thinking a 35x12.5r17 might rub suspension in a 0 offset...
 

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For the roost guards. Go to an offroad shop and see if they have those dorky shock boots that are like 2$. Cut it in 1/2 vertically and zip tie it in place. [emoji41]

As for wheels, I think you'll be more than ok, I could ALMOST get away with stock wheels and 315s. Like 1/8" too close.

Anxious to see what wheels you're getting. I was shopping for wheels but everything I liked needed hub rings, so eff that I'll keep stock wheels till I find some I love

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Kyle McWilliams

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For the roost guards. Go to an offroad shop and see if they have those dorky shock boots that are like 2$. Cut it in 1/2 vertically and zip tie it in place. [emoji41]

As for wheels, I think you'll be more than ok, I could ALMOST get away with stock wheels and 315s. Like 1/8" too close.

Anxious to see what wheels you're getting. I was shopping for wheels but everything I liked needed hub rings, so eff that I'll keep stock wheels till I find some I love

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Sliding into your DMs for wheel opinions haha
 

hodge-xj

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Kyle McWilliams

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For the roost guards. Go to an offroad shop and see if they have those dorky shock boots that are like 2$. Cut it in 1/2 vertically and zip tie it in place. [emoji41]

As for wheels, I think you'll be more than ok, I could ALMOST get away with stock wheels and 315s. Like 1/8" too close.

Anxious to see what wheels you're getting. I was shopping for wheels but everything I liked needed hub rings, so eff that I'll keep stock wheels till I find some I love

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Screenshot_20190719-163102_Chrome.jpg

This is what im looking at if i go 35x12.5r17 with a zero offset, the comparison setup in the photo is my current 33x10.8r20 with the -19 offset i get running spacers on factory wheels.
 

hodge-xj

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View attachment 173900

This is what im looking at if i go 35x12.5r17 with a zero offset, the comparison setup in the photo is my current 33x10.8r20 with the -19 offset i get running spacers on factory wheels.
I also have ready lift arms so I may have a bit more room since it's tubular compared to your zones being boxed. Go full crank both ways and see how much clearance you have. I'd bet you'll be find bit never hurts to measure

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Kyle McWilliams

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I also have ready lift arms so I may have a bit more room since it's tubular compared to your zones being boxed. Go full crank both ways and see how much clearance you have. I'd bet you'll be find bit never hurts to measure

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Measured that UCA clearance and if it moves that inside edge of the tire in 1.6" id be getting probably less than 0.5" between uca and sidewall. If the 17/35 setup balloons out more than my 20/33s itd be worse, and so would a more aggressive sidewall than duratracs. Im thinking -12 would be wise.
 

hodge-xj

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Measured that UCA clearance and if it moves that inside edge of the tire in 1.6" id be getting probably less than 0.5" between uca and sidewall. If the 17/35 setup balloons out more than my 20/33s itd be worse, and so would a more aggressive sidewall than duratracs. Im thinking -12 would be wise.
I think you'll be happier overall with -12 spacing. Peace of mind for clearance and a bit better stance overall imo. I like a proportioned wider stance.

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That would have been 5" backspace on the same 17x9 wheels.
I prefer the look of 4.5" backspace cause i could even fit 37x12.5 without having to worry about wheel spacers and rubbing the UCA's, but i think they look good either way.

Throw some 37s on let’s see it!


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hodge-xj

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Motivation to get them tires ordered [emoji41]929b48756aee592e3202fa8f49610c27.jpg

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